Oxygen Sensor Change for 2007 E91

Just finished the O2 sensor change job for my 2007 E91.

What: changed the Bank 1 Sensor 1 O2 sensor Part # 11787558055

Why: SES light came on --- lived with it for past 4 or 5 months, finally got around to replacing

How much: ~ $150 with shipping from AZ Autohaus --- note: there are write ups around for replacing with a 'generic' Bosch sensor head ( < $100) --- but that requires saving the harness/plug end of existing old sensor and splicing/connecting to new sensor head/tip --- too much work for me.

How:
Fairly straightforward job that took me 2 hrs from opening the hood to shutting the hood.
Removing the air filter and all the plastic cladding as usual --- took me ~ 30 min.
Removing the existing sensor and replacing with new took me ~ 45 min. Replacing the plastic cladding and air filter took another 20 min. Then I spent some time cleaning up the engine bay --- vacuumed with a wet/dry vac.

Start by using a OBD2 reader and erase the error code P0030 before starting the job.

I used a 18 in breaker bar, 6 inch extension and a offset type O2 sensor wrench.

Tip: tape the O2 sensor wrench to the extension --- ensure nothing falls into engine bay black hole.

Breaker bar made removal of existing sensor a cinch. Then, I replaced the electrical connector side of the sensor with new sensor (NOTE, you should start at the O2 sensor tip instead --- I'll explain later).
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I traced removed the wire of existing sensor that I removed --- starting from the electrical connector end --- following to each wire holder and removing/replacing until I got to the O2 sensor tip. Well guess what? This makes screwing in the O2 sensor into the engine more difficult --- since the wire cannot turn --- or wire would need to twist.

Luckily I was able to make a few twists and tighten the sensor head. there are several rotation/twists on the wire. I hope that does not cause issues or reduce the life of the O2 sensor.

That was all there was to it. I was lucky that P0030 was due to malfunction of the Bank1 Sensor 1 (Cylinders 1-3, precat). This one is easiest to reach.

Anyways --- if anyone has Qs, please post here or PM me. I did not take pix --- sorry.

Glad the job went smoothly --- well, I shall see in a few weeks of driving if any issues arise or come back.

Glad I saved ~ $200 labor that the Stealership would have charged -- at least. Or ~ $150 from an indy.

Hi...read your post...thanks. I have the very same issue, very same sensor bad. I also read on this or another forum that before changing it I should clear the code first? I'm pretty good with a wrench, but don't have the technology. Do you know if I changed out the sensor would the check engine light go off?

Originally Posted by dbcat1

Hi...read your post...thanks. I have the very same issue, very same sensor bad. I also read on this or another forum that before changing it I should clear the code first? I'm pretty good with a wrench, but don't have the technology. Do you know if I changed out the sensor would the check engine light go off?

It will go out on its own but might take 20 or more cold to hot drive cycles. It depends on the exact nature of the code, i.e. whether it was the heater or slow switching or poor signal or what.
Some codes will disappear as soon as the defective part is replaced.

Reset the check engine light first --- the change the sensor. The check engine light will go away, but the error will be in memory for 20 drive cycles --- as described by DSXMachine. You'll need the memory to clear first before going to do any smog check.