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E46 (1999 - 2006)
The fourth generation 3 Series (E46 chassis) was introduced in 1999 and set the standard for engineering and performance during it's years of production including being named to Car & Driver's 10 best list every one of those years! ! -- View the E46 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 07-09-2012, 12:22 PM
jmansour jmansour is offline
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Post DIY E46 Roof Rack

Ok I want to take on the challenge of making a roof rack for my 2004 325i.
I will document the whole thing and thread it here....but I only have ONE question for you guys.

What thread screw / bolt will fit the (4) mounting spots on the roof of the car. (The ones under the cover) ???

Thanks! - I carry a kayak and bicycle allot and I'm sick of the blanket approach for the Kayak

I'd love the challenge.
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  #2  
Old 07-09-2012, 01:22 PM
jmansour jmansour is offline
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I found this on e46 fanatics. Can anyone confirm?

"M6x16

So, 6mm diameter by 16 mm long"
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  #3  
Old 07-09-2012, 05:23 PM
jmansour jmansour is offline
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Update: just got all the material except for the bolts. I need (4) m6x100 or m6x120 Bolts. There is a custom shop down the street but I will have to wait for them to open probably can get there Wednesday.
I'll get a simple write up with pics asap.

It's a cheap method and no it wont look like a million dollars but you will probably have to look twice before noticing its a DIY rig.
It's also better than using a blanket and allot of tie downs through the windows and cabin (to the point where I have to go "Dukes of Hazard" to get in my car) because the doors won't open.
Total price should be about 15 bucks. YAHH!

Last edited by jmansour; 07-09-2012 at 05:25 PM.
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  #4  
Old 07-09-2012, 08:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmansour View Post
Update: just got all the material except for the bolts. I need (4) m6x100 or m6x120 Bolts. There is a custom shop down the street but I will have to wait for them to open probably can get there Wednesday.
I'll get a simple write up with pics asap.

It's a cheap method and no it wont look like a million dollars but you will probably have to look twice before noticing its a DIY rig.
It's also better than using a blanket and allot of tie downs through the windows and cabin (to the point where I have to go "Dukes of Hazard" to get in my car) because the doors won't open.
Total price should be about 15 bucks. YAHH!
Inch-and-a-half "schedule 40" PVC pipe & various connectors would probably work well....
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  #5  
Old 07-11-2012, 09:17 PM
jmansour jmansour is offline
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Originally Posted by Fast Bob View Post
Inch-and-a-half "schedule 40" PVC pipe & various connectors would probably work well....
Thanks I went metal, and surprisingly it does not look bad AT ALL
I'm writing it up now.
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  #6  
Old 07-11-2012, 09:44 PM
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That would be awesome, I go mountain biking at times but I usually take my dads truck. So this diy rack would be way better than trying to tetris my bike into the trunk

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  #7  
Old 07-11-2012, 10:00 PM
jmansour jmansour is offline
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Ok so Very simple, just pain it the but if you don't have what you need and have to drive all over town lol
P.S. sorry if it takes me a minute to put up the pics...

So list of materials you'll need.
- 2 3/4X48 metal pipes (~4 bucks a peice at homedepot (they are weigh nothing )
- 1 One meter 6m tie rod (got it for ~17 bucks at Threads for the South)
- 8 6m locking nuts (~4bucks)
- 8 large washers (little bigger than 6m, but not so big the washers fall through... You will see why later) - (~4 bucks)
- One, any length 6m bolt (at least 16mm)
- 1 regular 6m nut.
- 1 Black spray paint (or color of your choice) - (1 buck)


Tools you will need.
- Power drill with tip matching the tie rod Diameter (or no bigger than your washer...)
- Wrench, in my case 10mm for that little m6 bolt
- Angle grinder with metal cutting blade.
- Flat head to flip up your mount covers.

Step one.
Flip up your 4 mounting covers on your roof with a flat head.

2
Use that 6m, any length bolt (at least 16mm), to strip out any paint that might be on the threads... u might need the wrench for this.

3
Mount the tie rod all the way into one of your holes and use the regular 6m nut as a place holder, while you measure out the height you want using one of the pipes. Put the nut at the desired height and then remove the whole tie rod from the roof.

4
Using the angle grinder, cut the rod where you marked it (using the nut).
Note: Make sure you leave the regular nut on there, so when you cut the tie rod you can un thread it all the way to fix the threads at the end. Adjust and grind until nut comes on and off both end without a problem.
Cut out a total of 4 pieces - (just use that one to measure out the rest)

5
Mount all four onto your car and check fitment, I recommend you use the better end of the thread (the smoother fitting) into your car side...
If you stand behind the car and line up the left side together, you can see they are angled out to the left a bit. If you stand behind the right side, they are angled to the right.
This means that when you go to mark holes for drilling, they will NOT be directly above each other. (should be staggered)- (bottom closer to each other than the top)

6
Time to mark of drill points... Use a soft material (i used the old carpet form my car), to hold the pipe at the desired height while you mark the drill holes. Don't forget to center the pipe first. And make sure you mark TDC (top dead center) and BTC (bottom...), and the width.
Repeat process for other bar.

7
Using a drill with a metal drill bit, Drill out your markings. (I used the angle grinder to make the marks a little level so I could drill easier)
Test fit your holes. With me, I gave up on the holes and decided to use the angle grinder to make slots. (this will make fitting it easier... trust me, I recommend slots)

8
Now, insert one locking nut into each rod, (bottom side up)- (You might have to take it off and hold it with rubber and pliers to do this... lock nuts are hard nuts to move )

9
After 4 locking nuts are in place, add one washer to each rod, then put the pipes across. Move the nut down untill desired Height is reached, then put a washer ontop of the pipe followed but a locking nut. Tighten it all up (NOT ALLOT!!!) don't want to strip your baby's threads out (no I didn't do that)

10
Test it out!!! If you did it right it should be SOLID. I strapped down a Kayak to mine... I can shake the Kayak and the whole car will shake with it Quality!

11
Mark off where you want to cut off any extra pipe (I lined up with the side of my car and marked it off where the top trim for the window it. Then Remove the mounts from the car.

12
Use the angle grinder to cut the pipes to desired length, then file of any rough edges.
P.s. when you turn the angle grinder off and it is still spinning FAST, don't bump your finger on it on accident... if it doesn't cut you deep, it will still burn the SH1t out of you) lol

13
Tape off the ends of the thread you dont want painted, tie wire or string to that part, then hang it from a tree or somewhere you can paint it. Paint it to desired color (Black in my case) and allow to dry.
Do as many coats as u want... clear coat it if your that serious (I see no Point)

14
Take it off and put it back on the car and see how it looks.
If you thumb it down... guess what, be happy, u just spent ~25 bucks instead of hundreds.

15
Optional Cosmetics...
If you want, you can place nice caps on the ends of the pipes and get some nice black rubber spacers to put on the threaded part hanging out between the pipe and roof (just to make it look nicer.

So I hope that all made sense, ask if you got questions.
And yes, I would feel comfortable driving Highway with that Kayak on.

Tell me what you think!
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Last edited by jmansour; 07-11-2012 at 10:08 PM.
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  #8  
Old 07-11-2012, 10:12 PM
jmansour jmansour is offline
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more pics, sorry they might be huge... go pro...
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  #9  
Old 07-11-2012, 10:16 PM
jmansour jmansour is offline
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And more pics.
Ill get a ncie one of teh finish product mounted very soon!
Long day... Good night!
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Last edited by jmansour; 07-11-2012 at 10:28 PM.
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  #10  
Old 07-11-2012, 10:25 PM
jmansour jmansour is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KenG View Post
That would be awesome, I go mountain biking at times but I usually take my dads truck. So this diy rack would be way better than trying to tetris my bike into the trunk

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Man I only did the two bars, The rack would NOT be hard at all. just use the bars and the base and go from there... Im thinking of making an attachment for my bike, If I do I will definitely add it on to the thread.

Possibilities are endless.
I can tell you now easiest way I see to make a bike mount would be to get some (Deep, tall) Angle bars and cut it into pieces and bolt them together to make two half U's. Then built opposite ones and bolt those together to make wheel wells. Drill a hole into the front and rear bar, level (aligned) to each other, and mount the Half U's using Bolts and Lock nuts (so you can take those on and off). Paint to desired color(s). Then just put the bike up on the half U's by the Tires, and tie it down the same way I did my Kayak,. Just two straps going over the frame.

Actually, I think I WILL do that very soon

I just thought of some important things for the bike rack build. Ill explain more in detail later.

Last edited by jmansour; 07-11-2012 at 10:32 PM.
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  #11  
Old 07-12-2012, 06:17 AM
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Not to be a downer, but are you sure the bolts can support all that weight?
I'm not sure I'd throw 100-150 pounds of gear / mountain bikes up there...

On the Thule rack system there is a "foot" that seems to distribute the weight to the left and the right of the bolt. See attached photo.
Maybe there's a way to add a support that helps distribute some of that point load.

Just a suggestion and not a criticism.
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  #12  
Old 07-12-2012, 08:49 AM
jmansour jmansour is offline
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Originally Posted by mlukas161 View Post
Not to be a downer, but are you sure the bolts can support all that weight?
I'm not sure I'd throw 100-150 pounds of gear / mountain bikes up there...

On the Thule rack system there is a "foot" that seems to distribute the weight to the left and the right of the bolt. See attached photo.
Maybe there's a way to add a support that helps distribute some of that point load.

Just a suggestion and not a criticism.
Thanks, helpful info.
What I can do is find, or fabricate, some legs (Kind of identical to butterfly fasteners) in the shape of a V with a whole drilled in the point of the V, and rubber covers on both ends of the V. This can Slide up and down the threaded section freely (you do not have to spin to move up and down). Then I can use another nut/washer to push that down to proper pressure in order to help distribute the weight off the longer, unused section of the threads, and help eliminate any possible "bend" of the extra thread. Then I can move the pipes down to where they are resting on that V directly.

What do you think about that? Give me some criticism. It helps everyone.

Also in my case, my gear stays in the trunk (aka food and life jackets and pedals, maybe backpack if I'm doing a over night trip). I doubt My kayak and that rack even weighs 100 lbs so the compressive strength of those (4) points each carrying 20-25 lbs shouldn't be too big of a problem... especially if I do what you just advised. (which I will. just tell me what you think about that design.

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Old 07-12-2012, 10:17 AM
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mlukas161 mlukas161 is online now
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Originally Posted by jmansour View Post
Thanks, helpful info.
What I can do is find, or fabricate, some legs (Kind of identical to butterfly fasteners) in the shape of a V with a whole drilled in the point of the V, and rubber covers on both ends of the V. This can Slide up and down the threaded section freely (you do not have to spin to move up and down). Then I can use another nut/washer to push that down to proper pressure in order to help distribute the weight off the longer, unused section of the threads, and help eliminate any possible "bend" of the extra thread. Then I can move the pipes down to where they are resting on that V directly.

What do you think about that? Give me some criticism. It helps everyone.

Also in my case, my gear stays in the trunk (aka food and life jackets and pedals, maybe backpack if I'm doing a over night trip). I doubt My kayak and that rack even weighs 100 lbs so the compressive strength of those (4) points each carrying 20-25 lbs shouldn't be too big of a problem... especially if I do what you just advised. (which I will. just tell me what you think about that design.

Yeah, that sounds like a great idea in my opinion. Especially if you have anything heavy being transported on the rack. Those V shaped legs should do the trick.

The brackets should help reinforce those bolts and add some strength / rigidity to the rack as a whole.
Not sure what kind of lateral forces and uplift come into play when doing 70 down the road with a canoe or bikes on top.
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Old 07-12-2012, 11:02 AM
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Hmmm... I was able to find an OEM base rack, bike and ski carriers on Craigslist for under $200. Seems risky to save a few dollars fabricating something that might end up leaving your gear scattered all over the highway.

Just read the whole thread and it seems highly unlikely these bolts are going to support the shear forces you'll experience during panic braking or severe side wind, let alone a collision. Bolts are designed to withstand tension, but are pretty bad with shear.
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Old 07-12-2012, 12:19 PM
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jonathan2263 jonathan2263 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlukas161 View Post
Not to be a downer, but are you sure the bolts can support all that weight?
I'm not sure I'd throw 100-150 pounds of gear / mountain bikes up there...

On the Thule rack system there is a "foot" that seems to distribute the weight to the left and the right of the bolt. See attached photo.
Maybe there's a way to add a support that helps distribute some of that point load.

Just a suggestion and not a criticism.
My thoughts exactly. A kayak, or a couple bikes don't weigh all that much, but the extra drag from wind at highway speed could put a lot of strain on those four bolts. I saw a few horror stories concerning home made racks from my days racing small sailboats, and wouldn't want to risk it.

If you could fabricate a foot like you are talking about, that might help distribute the load more. Maybe some laminated plywood in a sort of pyramid shape the height of the bolts, with a hole drilled through...
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Old 07-12-2012, 02:08 PM
jmansour jmansour is offline
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Ok I just weighed out my Kayak. 35 Lbs exactly... I don't ever go highway speeds so I should be fine lol.
Thing is I don't use it enough to justify spending that much on a rack.

That's a good idea jonathan, I was trying to figure out how to do metal. but wood sounds nicer. I'll do that.
I'm pretty sure ill be fine with the wind load and braking... I will put my go pro aiming at the bolts / pyramids and see what happens when I drive... As far as Impacts go.. If i crashed, thats the last thing I would be worried about.
I got the Kayak new on Black Friday for 130 bucks... wouldn't cry too hard if it breaks.
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Old 07-12-2012, 05:52 PM
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G. P. Burdell G. P. Burdell is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sea6speed View Post
Hmmm... I was able to find an OEM base rack, bike and ski carriers on Craigslist for under $200. Seems risky to save a few dollars fabricating something that might end up leaving your gear scattered all over the highway.
I agree. When you pay for a roof rack system, you're paying for the engineering and wind tunnel testing that went into a product that's designed to keep your stuff on the roof of the car.

$200 for a used Original BMW rack is a bargain compared to the costs of:

(1) being cited by law enforcement authorities for driving with an improperly secured load;
(2) exposing yourself to civil suits filed by your fellow drivers after they crash into your gear; and
(3) higher auto insurance rates or loss of insurance coverage altogether.

Also, electrical conduit is made of a fairly soft metal that's designed to be bent easily. It is the last thing I would reach for in a structural application.

There are plenty of times when it's good to be frugal, but protecting the safety of other drivers is not one of them. This is not the place to cut corners.
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Old 07-12-2012, 11:36 PM
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Originally Posted by jmansour View Post
Ok I just weighed out my Kayak. 35 Lbs exactly... I don't ever go highway speeds so I should be fine lol.
Thing is I don't use it enough to justify spending that much on a rack.

That's a good idea jonathan, I was trying to figure out how to do metal. but wood sounds nicer. I'll do that.
I'm pretty sure ill be fine with the wind load and braking... I will put my go pro aiming at the bolts / pyramids and see what happens when I drive... As far as Impacts go.. If i crashed, thats the last thing I would be worried about.
I got the Kayak new on Black Friday for 130 bucks... wouldn't cry too hard if it breaks.
K... So if you crash, you're ok launching a projectile?

Gopro may tell you if the load is shifting, or things are moving but it's not going to help much to predict when a bolt will snap. If you've seen a bolt shear off it's instantaneous. It'll be cool having a video of it happening, but at that point the damage is done.

That you came up with this design in the first place is a good indicator you're not familiar with the materials you are working with or the loads/ forces involved. There is a reason professionally designed racks are built the way they are.
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Old 07-16-2012, 03:19 PM
jmansour jmansour is offline
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ok well i built triangular supports and it takes one kayak easy, and i was even forced to put three up on it when my friends tire blew. It qorks like a dream. whats done is done, i built a sound structure and it works fine, not going to go blow some money on something i dont need anymore.
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Old 07-16-2012, 05:54 PM
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Nice! Glad it worked out for you.
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Old 07-16-2012, 05:58 PM
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sea6speed sea6speed is online now
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Post pics when it breaks.
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Old 07-18-2012, 08:09 AM
jmansour jmansour is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlukas161 View Post
Nice! Glad it worked out for you.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sea6speed View Post
Post pics when it breaks.
Thanks Mlukas

And I will sea6speed.

I'm remaking the triangles out of aluminum when classes start up and I have access to machines again.
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Old 11-14-2012, 04:03 PM
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please get new tail lights
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