Replacing exhaust manifold?

Be more specific.

Hmm i dont have garage with a lot of tools, so i am asking if i can remove manifolds without jacking motor up. So what ive read for now, i can do it.

So i am asking if i must remove valve cover to remove manifolds, couse if i must remove v alve cover, than this is bigger problem couse when you are putting valve cover back you must have proper torque (if im wright) and i dont have torque wrench. Thats why im asking if i can remove manifolds without removeing valve cover?

Removeing plastic cover of the coils, and removeing coils is no problem.


TNX

No, you don't need to remove the valve cover, or the coils, or any of that crap. Don't touch the top of the motor. The headers are on the side of the motor.

You will probably want to get a jack and some jack stands though, just to have clearance to crawl under the car.

NO, you can not remove the headers without getting under the car.

I think we didnt ounderstaind each other.
I need to remove this ounder noumber 1 and 2.

http://de.bmwfans.info/parts/catalog...with_catalyst/

Couse someone here said that the manifold could be removed from the top?

Remove 3.

Disconnect 8s.

Remove 6s.

Remove nuts on top of manifold.

Remove nuts on bottom of manifold from bottom.

Hold both headers carefully at the same time while you attempt to maneuver them out the bottom through the small hole like playing Tetris.

All this procedure is done from the above of the motor or form belowe?

I give up.

Im sorry, but some one sad from above, you sad from below, and how can i now know what is wright and what is wrong.

We can only offer suggestions, based on our own experience; some things you'll have to figure out for yourself, or pay the price for someone that already knows.

My pictures and verbage is intended for owner/enthusiasts with above average mechanical apptitude, I don't know how to dumb it down.

I'm not trying to be offensive, it's just the facts.

Here is the thread I had when I installed headers on my Z4MC a while back.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...474&highlight=

There is tons of space on the Z4M for this switch, but patience helps. And I did not have to get euro cats nor did I get an ECU tune - simply relocated my post cat O2 sensors post the second set of cats (under the car) and the EGT to before them. No CELs and readiness codes are set and the car made 17 whp on the dyno that can be felt on daily driving (more low end and mid range torque) as well as on the track.

I need to repair my manifold, not to change it for aftermarket one. So if i understaind wright 02 simulators is needed when you replacing for aftermarket manifolds and not when you disconect original manifold, repair it and put it back?

Just wanted to be clear on the install of the Turner shorty headers on a S52 engine (2000 Mcoupe).

O2 sensors reinstall in the headers (threaded fittings on headers)

The air pump. Is there a fitting to install on the Turner shorties?

If so there are no engine management fault codes resulting from the headers.

BTW, no codes on ours.

Hi Randy,

Hope to have a set of shorty Turner headers soon. Been buying the nuts and stuff ahead of time. The Manifold to head nuts came as 12mm from the dealer not 11mm as you noted in this old post. Think it's possible they changed to 12mm?

Originally Posted by Randy Forbes

I've replaced the exhaust manifolds on S-52 & S-54 M Rdstrs/Coupes, and on the Z3 2.8 (M-54) Coupe.

It's doable, but patience and a full toolbox* is required.



* you'll need every configuration of an 11mm socket, and 11mm wrench that you can imagine, and an assortment of extensions, in BOTH 1/4" & 3/8" drive. There are even instances of me making wrenches to fit the job. This is just the manifold to head interface, the rest of the job is pretty straight forward. On some cars, I am left wondering if it wouldn't have been quicker, let alone easier, to have removed the engine...

Originally Posted by bob lindquist

Hi Randy,

Hope to have a set of shorty Turner headers soon. Been buying the nuts and stuff ahead of time. The Manifold to head nuts came as 12mm from the dealer not 11mm as you noted in this old post. Think it's possible they changed to 12mm?

As long as the thread size (M7) is the same, theoretically they should work. Test one on a stud poking out ahead of time to be sure...

The only problem as I see it, is that there's a couple of studs that are 99.9% impossible to get the nut on, and a 12mm tool size (vs 11mm) will complicate that. Worst case, you could reuse a couple of the original nuts in those few places that are difficult to access.

Definitely test the nut on a stud though, because I ordered some (for my impending twinscrew installation...) not all that long ago, and they were supplied as 11mm (across the flats).

Terry and Camille's car: I swear on the Bible that it took me over twenty (>20) minutes to get that nut on! Confirmed__picture says thirty (30)!

We we paying you by the hour?????

I double checked the nuts I have in stock . I bought them in two lots. The first lot (in my parts draw are correct 11MM) the second lot bought last week (I was short 4) were wrong. part number correct but wrong nuts(12mm).

Hey Randy some of those old Photos are no longer showing in the posts. Are they available elsewhere?

Originally Posted by Randy Forbes

As long as the thread size (M7) is the same, theoretically they should work. Test one on a stud poking out ahead of time to be sure...

The only problem as I see it, is that there's a couple of studs that are 99.9% impossible to get the nut on, and a 12mm tool size (vs 11mm) will complicate that. Worst case, you could reuse a couple of the original nuts in those few places that are difficult to access.

Definitely test the nut on a stud though, because I ordered some (for my impending twinscrew installation...) not all that long ago, and they were supplied as 11mm (across the flats).

Terry and Camille's car: I swear on the Bible that it took me over twenty (>20) minutes to get that nut on! Confirmed__picture says thirty (30)!

I started to remove this metel shield from around the ECU/Air pump/Batter jumper terminal area. Most was fine to remove but it sure looks like the brake line needs to be disconnected at the wheel well end to have enough slack in the brake line to get the metal panel out. Am I missing something?



[QUOTE=Randy Forbes;5703832]For (MUCH) greater access, I remove the sheetmetal barrier around the electrical box. This takes about 10-15 minutes to do (and a similar amount of time to replace) but it is well worth the trouble. Don't get me wrong, you'll still have scraped up arms, but at least you'll be able to get your arm in there.

Had a second look at that plate and with a little this and that I rotated it out of there. Whow it really does open the access to the header area quite a bit. Thanks Randy for that Tip. Never would have thought of that.

My Headers should be here Mon / Tue. Since the car is a garage queen the nuts on the stock manifold all came out like they were installed yesterday. With the exception of two where the studs came out. All prep'd and ready for the install.

I Noticed the little rubber hose for the valve from the air pump is cracked. I will have to replace that one.

Didn't follow the posts on deleting the air pump on the S52 engine all that well. Is there a benefit besides removing that ugly thing from under the hood. I also thought I understood a fault code results. Could someone summarize the story on the S52 engine.

Hi Bob,

Sorry, didn't see this sooner (we've been "on the beach" all week...

Glad you figured it out; yes, you had to rotate that panel out of the way of the brake pipe (without disconnecting it). It's just as much trouble to put back in, but I still feel it's worth the effort when installing headers.

Removing the air pump will have no benefit on performance, just gets rid of "that ugly thing from under the hood" as you say. Without it, you would get a check engine light; People have made up simulators but it can be tricky to fool. Engine management software can be told to ignore the lack of a pump, but that's generally guys writing the software for forced induction, although there may be a "race only/non street legal" version of the Shark Injector for such purposes. The only thing that would motivate me to remove it, would be if I needed the space to mount a water/methanol injection tank (forced induction option).

Almost all of the old pictures, certainly every car I've worked on since 2005, are now on my own server, so should be at the same (physical & virtual) address for a while: www.spcarsplus.com/gallery3

Links to header jobs, not sure how much that will help you now...
http://www.spcarsplus.com/gallery3/i...k_car_headwork (pulled head__coated stock headers)
http://www.spcarsplus.com/gallery3/index.php/ccr (Camille's car)
http://www.spcarsplus.com/gallery3/i...E-Supercharged (S-54 supercharged Coupe, but includes header & cat work)
http://www.spcarsplus.com/gallery3/index.php/Tweety_Two (WHOLE totally coated supercharged S-52 engine build w/headers)
http://www.spcarsplus.com/gallery3/i...AMcD_hdrs-brks (S-52 headers on a Coupe__*supposed* to get car back this winter for supercharging...)

For anything else, you should call: 419 350 1098

Well here I am. Geeze this is real tuff to get the tool on. Have the nut on, actually wasn't too bad. BUT...getting a socket on is another thing all together!!

Randy,

what was your sequence here? 11mm 1/4 drive socket, then universal, then extension?

I had good success using a gear wrench for many of the nuts.



[/QUOTE]

Geeze that was a pain. Like building an engine using kitchen tongs. Some of my feedback on the Turner headers are:

1. Turner needs to open up the spaces for the air pump flanges in the header manifold. Space is way too small and requires a lot of grinding to get them to seat.

2. Turner needs to move the O2 senso bung maybe 1/2 inch to prevent the sensor from being jammed into the cooland drain bolt on the side of block near the rear manifold.

3. get ready for some really difficult nuts to both tread on the stud and to tighten. allmost all are on the rear manifold.

Took lots of time to get those nuts on.

Phew. glad thats over. Now for something easy like putting a canoe in the glove box.