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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #51  
Old 01-18-2012, 02:38 PM
ranju209 ranju209 is offline
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Thanks Qsilver7,

I endedup cut open one of my keys and found that there was a lose contact on one of the battery terminal. I soldered it back and bingo.... It worked. I still had to re program it as you have shown it in your image for the diamond key. So I decided to open the second one and it also had the same issue. Now both my keys works perfect. You saved me AUS $1200.00 for 2 keys from BMW dealer.

While going through some other forums, i read that we need to keep the key at shifter level or point it towards and near the receiver, but I didn't had to do any of this (maybe my tummy height while seated in the car is just right, don't know).
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  #52  
Old 01-18-2012, 07:32 PM
StuntmanX StuntmanX is offline
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i tried qsilvers instructions and it did not work. do you think might have anything to do with me doing a motor swap? right now all my key will do is perform the standard functions, manual lock and unlock
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  #53  
Old 01-18-2012, 08:04 PM
ranju209 ranju209 is offline
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Hi StuntmanX,

I didn't really get what you mean by "Motor swap".

Anyway, what I found when i opened my key is that the PCB is not 100% secured within the enclousure. After long use of the key, due to continous usage of the button, the connections on the PCB can get screwed up (which is what happened in my case). If I guess correct, in your case, either the problem is the battery is dead or there is loose connection. I am 100% confident about the procedure what Qsilver7 has given.

I would suggest you to cut open and have a look. Hai your only choice now is to order a new key from the dealer. By opening and checking you are not far from where you are now. This is the logic with which I ended up opening my keys and I'm $1200 ahead (hahaha).

I used the information from the link attached as a guide to do the operation. (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=315311). All that I used as tools are a Multi-tool knief, 10W soildering iron, super glue and 3 cable ties. It took me less than 5 mins for each key. Once opened I used by finger nails to operate the tiny buttons inside and cheked it works. And before gluing both the halves, i cleaned the parting line for any small materials so that the glue works well when put together.

Hope this helps and good luck.
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  #54  
Old 01-18-2012, 08:46 PM
StuntmanX StuntmanX is offline
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it was either in this thread or another where i read something that the isn or some serial number was coded to each computer. My original motor blew a head gasket and i put another motor in my car, i am wondering if that has anything to do with my issue. also, My fuel door never locked. i just push on the back part of it and it opens right up.. it has been that way since i purchased the car.

My central locking system seems to lock everything else (i.e. doors, trunk).

Just to be clear, position 1 only provides me with Radio and temp gauge right?
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  #55  
Old 01-18-2012, 09:04 PM
ranju209 ranju209 is offline
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I guess from reading many posts, ur issue is the central locking system. Since ur fuel filler door isn't locking with the manual central locking, your remote also won't work. Thats atleast my understanding. Try and solve your central locking system first before you do anything to your key. Sry But I haven't had any experince with central locking system yet.

And about ur question for the position 1. Yes you are right, at position 1, it just shows up the temp display area and the music system.
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  #56  
Old 01-19-2012, 12:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StuntmanX View Post
it was either in this thread or another where i read something that the isn or some serial number was coded to each computer. My original motor blew a head gasket and i put another motor in my car, i am wondering if that has anything to do with my issue. also, My fuel door never locked. i just push on the back part of it and it opens right up.. it has been that way since i purchased the car.

My central locking system seems to lock everything else (i.e. doors, trunk).

Just to be clear, position 1 only provides me with Radio and temp gauge right?
The problem you need to fix first is the fuel filler door. As stated earlier in this thread...if the fuel filler door is NOT working...you need to check the fuse in the trunk (for central locking....look at the fuse index/diagram for it's number & location in the trunk).

If that fuse is blown...then you have a 99.9% probability that the culprit is the actuator for the fuel filler door. Either replace the fuse...or unplug the fuel filler door actuator...then replace the fuse with a working one.

Once the issue with the fuel filler door is fixed or kludged...you can then work on getting the keyless entry features working.

And to answer the question about the new motor...the answer is NO. The remote keys contain 3 features:
  • EWS - immobilizing system
  • FBZV/FZV - keyless entry /central locking system
  • DWA - anti-theft alarm siren system

The ISN (individual serial number) is part of the EWS system which is self powering and doesn't require the battery inside the key to work.

The FZV & DWA features of the key require a working battery inside the key...plus the central locking system must be working 100%.

EWS will work regardless if the FZV/DWA features are working...and vice versa. Each feature is its own system...and only work in conjunction with the other systems.

Take care of your central locking system and then you'll be able to get the keyless entry feature up and running.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Qsilver7
(from PAGE 2 - POST #46)
Second, the regular central locking system MUST be in 100% working order...if not, the keyless entry system won't work. So, lock the vehicle (manually) using the key in the door lock cylinder...then check each door/tailgate/fuel filler door to make sure that they ALL are locked. If one of them is NOT locked (like the fuel filler door)...then you MUST fix that issue before the keyless entry system will work.
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Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 97 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date
(SOLD)
99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White)
91 735iL (Schwarz Black) <<~>> 85 325e (Bronzit)

http://imageshack.com/scaled/grid240/822/e38e532ndsigpic.jpg

Last edited by QSilver7; 01-19-2012 at 12:40 PM.
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  #57  
Old 01-19-2012, 01:11 PM
StuntmanX StuntmanX is offline
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You guys were 100 percent correct as soon as I replace the fuse It worked. Thank YOU!
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  #58  
Old 01-19-2012, 01:33 PM
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Great! Now, if the keyless entry goes down again...check to see if the fuse blew. If it did...then there's an issue with your fuel filler door actuator that is causing the fuse to blow.

You can either replace that actuator...or unplug it if you can live with your fuel filler door never locking.
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Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 97 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date
(SOLD)
99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White)
91 735iL (Schwarz Black) <<~>> 85 325e (Bronzit)

http://imageshack.com/scaled/grid240/822/e38e532ndsigpic.jpg
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  #59  
Old 11-20-2012, 02:42 PM
rdayers42 rdayers42 is offline
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remote key initializing

Thank you Qsilver7 for your post on this subject. I was able to reprogram my master key, my second key is obviously discharged.
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  #60  
Old 01-13-2013, 06:36 PM
hella_mino hella_mino is offline
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Thumbs up This is not working!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by QSilver7 View Post
WOW...there is some wrong info in these threads (which is why the programming FAILED)...and programming/reprogramming the keys MUST be followed exactly to the point. Any wrong or missed instructions will end in a FAILED initialization. Not knocking anyone for trying to help...but if you really are not CERTAIN how a procedure goes...then either learn and KNOW for sure...or point to where the CORRECT instructions are.

First, the e39 has two different types of keys...the large rubber headed key...and the newer diamond shaped key with the color roundel in the center. Although the instructions are almost the same...the layout of the buttons are different and the NEWER key must be used manually in the door first (locked/unlocked the old fashioned way).

AND IT DOES NOT TAKE A WORKING KEY TO INITIALIZE A NEW KEY OR REINITIALIZE AN OLDER KEY...


See instructions below (one from the BMW owners manual...and the other from the BMW TIS):

THIS IS NOT WORKING! And all I did is replace a dead battery???
Here's the steps I followed repeatedly:
-- got out of the car, and I locked and unlocked the door manually
-- got in to the car within five seconds and closed the door (all doors and windows are closed)
-- PUT THE DIAMOND SHAPE KEY INTO THE IGNITION, I am not holding any buttons
-- TURN THE KEY TO POSITION ONE, which is the Accessories switch???
-- WITHIN FIVE SECONDS, TURN KEY BACK TO THE ZERO POSITION AND TAKE OUT THE KEY (I cannot take out the key while in Accessories position)

-- HOLD BUTTON ONE AND PRESS BUTTON TWO for three times within TEN seconds
-- Release Button one and.... nothing!?!?

Please can someone tell me if I am doing something wrong, because I look pretty freakish to my neighbors hopping in and out of my car!!??

BTW-- my car is a 2003 540i

Cheers!












,
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  #61  
Old 01-14-2013, 10:29 AM
harryhchen harryhchen is offline
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This works great for my 2002 530i. You should have the diamond shape key. You did not do step 4, 5. and 6 correctly. Use the instruction from right column. Good luck.
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  #62  
Old 01-14-2013, 02:19 PM
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Quote:
-- HOLD BUTTON ONE AND PRESS BUTTON TWO for three times within TEN seconds
-- Release Button one and.... nothing!?!?

Please can someone tell me if I am doing something wrong
Ditto...unless you mistyped your procedure...you have the buttons reversed. And this procedure is only for reinitializing the remote lock/unlock & arm/disarming of the car (FZV & DWA).

Also, make sure that your replacement battery was soldered in properly and that the battery is FULLY charged. It can take up to 30 hours to recharge a fully discharged battery (see 3rd bullet in image below). The key only charges when the ignition is in position KL R (ignition position 1) and higher. If you have a battery charger, you can hook it up to the jump start posts in the engine bay, then leave the key in ignition position 1 over night while the car is parked in the garage:



You should hold down the UNLOCK BUTTON (#2)...while pressing the ROUNDEL (#1/LOCK) button 3 times within 10 seconds...then release button #2 (UNLOCK) button. Here's the instructions explained in another illustration below:

__________________
Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 97 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date
(SOLD)
99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White)
91 735iL (Schwarz Black) <<~>> 85 325e (Bronzit)

http://imageshack.com/scaled/grid240/822/e38e532ndsigpic.jpg

Last edited by QSilver7; 01-14-2013 at 02:23 PM.
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  #63  
Old 03-25-2013, 07:50 PM
Massari Massari is offline
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I am having a different issue guys. no Matter what I do i cannot unlock/Lock the car with my second key. I can drive the car with it but i can't unlock lock the car.. what could be the problem? Could it be that the buttons are just jammed? if that's the case can I open the key and clean it ?

p.s I did the operation for my first key and it worked beautifully, right after the operation was done, i repeated the steps on key # 2 and nothing happened. A little history, the remote never worked properly when i bought the car. But then i didn't know about the programming before. When i pressed ( almost smashing) the unlock button and sometimes it worked. Recently by car's battery discharged so i had to program the keys again. I programmed the main (the one that I always used) and the procedure worked great, but no results with the other key.
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Last edited by Massari; 03-25-2013 at 07:58 PM.
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  #64  
Old 03-25-2013, 08:00 PM
ranju209 ranju209 is offline
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Did you do the reprogramming of both the keys (one after the other) at the same time? If not try it.

Mine had some lose contact when I opened the keys. I resoildered it and it works fine now. On one of my keys I had to change the battary also.

When opening, be careful not to pass the knief through the key. Start cuting only the edge or you might damage the internal elements.

good luck
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  #65  
Old 03-25-2013, 08:03 PM
Massari Massari is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ranju209 View Post
Did you do the reprogramming of both the keys (one after the other) at the same time? If not try it.

Thank you Ranju

Before i read this thread no, but after just now i ran downstairs (kinda looked funny to my neighbors, a guy with shorts and jacket in -1 C jumps to his car sits there and lights go on and off LOL) and tried initiating them at the same time one after the other , the fist key worked like a charm again but the second one nothing happened. I thought about opening it but I don't know how to open it, there is no screws.
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  #66  
Old 03-25-2013, 08:33 PM
ranju209 ranju209 is offline
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You r right. No screws. two halves are glued/vibration welded to make that key. All you need is a pocket knief to open it. Gently force the knief between 2 halves and go around to cut the whole key, but make sure you are not putting lot of force and when it opens the knief damages the internals.
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  #67  
Old 03-25-2013, 08:39 PM
Massari Massari is offline
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Ohh isee .. thank you for the clearification, another question , when programming the second key should i put the key in the ignition also and do the same thing? i just saw a video on youtube which the guy said " when you are programming your second key don't put the in the ignition, just press and hold the unlock button and and press the lock button 3 times (same procedure for the first key minus the put in the ignition and turn process) , is that true?
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  #68  
Old 03-25-2013, 08:47 PM
ranju209 ranju209 is offline
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Just follow the procedure described above by Qsilver in the image. Thats what I did and it works.
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  #69  
Old 03-26-2013, 09:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Massari View Post
... when programming the second key should i put the key in the ignition also and do the same thing? i just saw a video on youtube which the guy said " when you are programming your second key don't put the in the ignition, just press and hold the unlock button and and press the lock button 3 times (same procedure for the first key minus the put in the ignition and turn process) , is that true?
DO NOT stick the 2nd key in the ignition...start the 2nd key within 30 seconds and start on STEP 3 where you start pressing the buttons (that's what is meant in STEP 6 of the instructions above). If you were supposed to insert the 2nd key in the ignition to program it...the instructions would have said to start the 2nd key on STEP 2 (but it doesn't).
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Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 97 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date
(SOLD)
99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White)
91 735iL (Schwarz Black) <<~>> 85 325e (Bronzit)

http://imageshack.com/scaled/grid240/822/e38e532ndsigpic.jpg

Last edited by QSilver7; 03-26-2013 at 10:02 AM.
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  #70  
Old 03-27-2013, 04:40 AM
Massari Massari is offline
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Thank you very much Q7, the key still is not working. So maybe there is a wiring issue or battery dead, i will have to fix it this Friday.
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  #71  
Old 03-27-2013, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Massari View Post
Thank you very much Q7, the key still is not working. So maybe there is a wiring issue or battery dead, i will have to fix it this Friday.
Just be careful cutting open your new style key...you don't want to damage the innards (as others already mentioned)...nor do you want to damage yourself.

(image below courtesy of Bluebee)
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Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 97 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date
(SOLD)
99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White)
91 735iL (Schwarz Black) <<~>> 85 325e (Bronzit)

http://imageshack.com/scaled/grid240/822/e38e532ndsigpic.jpg
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  #72  
Old 03-27-2013, 12:46 PM
Massari Massari is offline
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Thats perfect Q, i will keep you posted in Friday
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  #73  
Old 04-07-2013, 01:40 PM
Jskipper11 Jskipper11 is offline
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Wouldn't have a clue

Hi there right I have a 98 740i 4.4 ltr v8 with 1 key has two buttons on it but I don't know what they are as you should be able to see in the pic ive done practically everything to programme it but nothing has worked I'm in need of help as I think that if you have a remote for the car you should be able to use it help help help
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  #74  
Old 04-07-2013, 09:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jskipper11 View Post
Hi there right I have a 98 740i 4.4 ltr v8 with 1 key has two buttons on it but I don't know what they are as you should be able to see in the pic ive done practically everything to programme it but nothing has worked I'm in need of help as I think that if you have a remote for the car you should be able to use it help help help
You need to first determine (or reveal to us if you already know) what system you have. Most 2 button remotes are IR (infrared) and not RF (radio frequency)...thus has a slightly different programming sequence.

I have the instructions for the late e32 & e34 IR 2 button remotes...and the programming sequence should be similar. The biggest difference is knowing the location of the IR receiver on the e38 (I'm not sure where it's located).

Do you have any owner manuals that could be of assistance?




(2 button key is the IR key #16 in the diagram below)
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...12&hg=41&fg=40
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Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 97 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date
(SOLD)
99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White)
91 735iL (Schwarz Black) <<~>> 85 325e (Bronzit)

http://imageshack.com/scaled/grid240/822/e38e532ndsigpic.jpg
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  #75  
Old 04-08-2013, 01:11 PM
Jskipper11 Jskipper11 is offline
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If you are meaning model as in ir or rf I think it would be ir I'm just confused I've tried everything
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