Transmission Warning: Gear in use without Break

Originally Posted by kskane

Thanks, one last questions, the sleve O-ring has to be lubricated with Vaseline (according to CTSC guide) or can I use the oil to do the same?

If they said Vaseline that is what I would use.

Does any know what is the torx size of the 24xBolts on the plastic sump of the auto trans on E60 6HP19.

According to the link below it should be using T40;
http://forums.5series.net/diy-do-you...-refill-88129/

According to BMW part number, there is no information;
Torx screw - 24 11 7 552 108 - M6X28,5

According to the bolts on my sump pan on the car, it is T27.

Reason for this question, when I already know that T27 is what I have on my vehicle - I am planning to replace the pan and oil on the my trans and 14 bolts seems to have its torx teeth #@#$#@ by previous INDY's, so I will need to replace these bolts. The new bolts which I will buy, I need to know the size of Torx bit so I can by that tool as my hollow Torx bit T27 broke while I was trying to un-screw the pan

Also, what tools was used to open the fill plug, I know it needs 8mm Hex socket, but mine won't fit since there is very less space and the thread above says to use L-shape tool, what is L-shape tool?

Originally Posted by kskane

Does any know what is the torx size of the 24xBolts on the plastic sump of the auto trans on E60 6HP19.

According to the link below it should be using T40;
http://forums.5series.net/diy-do-you...-refill-88129/

According to BMW part number, there is no information;
Torx screw - 24 11 7 552 108 - M6X28,5

According to the bolts on my sump pan on the car, it is T27.

Reason for this question, when I already know that T27 is what I have on my vehicle - I am planning to replace the pan and oil on the my trans and 14 bolts seems to have its torx teeth #@#$#@ by previous INDY's, so I will need to replace these bolts. The new bolts which I will buy, I need to know the size of Torx bit so I can by that tool as my hollow Torx bit T27 broke while I was trying to un-screw the pan

Also, what tools was used to open the fill plug, I know it needs 8mm Hex socket, but mine won't fit since there is very less space and the thread above says to use L-shape tool, what is L-shape tool?

Guys, just in case the above post is confusing, I would like to know following;
1. What is the torx size on the bolts that hold the plastic transmission oil sump pan, T27 or T40 (why am I asking the question? -> read above post)
2. Is there a socket available that will fit the small area to undo the filler plug on the transmission? (So, I have only read about the L-shape tool but those do not let you torque it to specification and I can't find any 8mm socket that is in total length of 30-35mm as that is all the space there is near the transmission).

Originally Posted by kskane

Guys, just in case the above post is confusing, I would like to know following;
1. What is the torx size on the bolts that hold the plastic transmission oil sump pan, T27 or T40 (why am I asking the question? -> read above post)
2. Is there a socket available that will fit the small area to undo the filler plug on the transmission? (So, I have only read about the L-shape tool but those do not let you torque it to specification and I can't find any 8mm socket that is in total length of 30-35mm as that is all the space there is near the transmission).

Torx, forgot which one; since I got a set of torx bits I didn't pay attention which one, I just try them on and see which one fits mine.

For hex drive, I bought cheap 8mm hex drive from Napa and grind the head about ye height (see picture) for drain and filler plugs on tranny pan:

Originally Posted by HPIA4v2

Torx, forgot which one; since I got a set of torx bits I didn't pay attention which one, I just try them on and see which one fits mine.

For hex drive, I bought cheap 8mm hex drive from Napa and grind the head about ye height (see picture) for drain and filler plugs on tranny pan:

Thanks HPIA4v2, followed your suggestion, and the hacked hex bit worked and I could open the fill plug. Cheers.

Originally Posted by bimmerfan52

If they said Vaseline that is what I would use.

Thanks BimmerFan52.

I took the pan off and had the sleeve ready, but I can't find where does the sleeve goes? With pan off, I can see under the transmission there is absolutely no place where the sleeve is visible. Is it hiding under "sleeve locking mechanism" or do I need to pull the valve body to reach the sleeve? What are the symptoms of leaking sleeve anyway?

Also, my pan was changed about 12,000K's during the transmission oil change. I do have a new pan, but the old one seems to be okay. Do you think I should change the pan, or just the two oil drains as recommended earlier in this post? I have the pan off at the moment as I am trying to figure out the sleeve and have to get 12 new bolts (which I am going to do a washer + M6 high tensile bolt combination).

Would appreciate if anyone can share there thoughts on the sleeve and pan.

Originally Posted by kskane

Thanks BimmerFan52.

I took the pan off and had the sleeve ready, but I can't find where does the sleeve goes? With pan off, I can see under the transmission there is absolutely no place where the sleeve is visible. Is it hiding under "sleeve locking mechanism" or do I need to pull the valve body to reach the sleeve? What are the symptoms of leaking sleeve anyway?

Also, my pan was changed about 12,000K's during the transmission oil change. I do have a new pan, but the old one seems to be okay. Do you think I should change the pan, or just the two oil drains as recommended earlier in this post? I have the pan off at the moment as I am trying to figure out the sleeve and have to get 12 new bolts (which I am going to do a washer + M6 high tensile bolt combination).

Would appreciate if anyone can share there thoughts on the sleeve and pan.

The sealing sleeve is just above the filler hole on the end of the transmission body. You do not need to remove the mechatronic unit. If the pan was done 12K ago I would put it back on and save the new pan for 60-70K from now.

Don't worry about high-tensile bolts as the bolt is only torqued to 8nM (about 6ft-lbs). Make sure you have the right thread length and exact thread size (including pitch).

Symptoms of leaking sleeve are leaking transmission fluid from the sleeve. You may not be experiencing this now, but if it has never been changed the rubber gaskets will give out and it will leak eventually.

Sealing sleeve is shown in drawing on pg 51 of pdf (along with other good info).

Originally Posted by bimmerfan52

The sealing sleeve is just above the filler hole on the end of the transmission body. You do not need to remove the mechatronic unit. If the pan was done 12K ago I would put it back on and save the new pan for 60-70K from now.

Don't worry about high-tensile bolts as the bolt is only torqued to 8nM (about 6ft-lbs). Make sure you have the right thread length and exact thread size (including pitch).

Symptoms of leaking sleeve are leaking transmission fluid from the sleeve. You may not be experiencing this now, but if it has never been changed the rubber gaskets will give out and it will leak eventually.

Sealing sleeve is shown in drawing on pg 51 of pdf (along with other good info).

Thanks BimmerFan52. But unfortunately, on the 6HP19 there is no space available to remove the sealing sleeve without removing the mechatronics. I am not sure which trans you have, but if you have 6HP!9, you will need to remove the mechatronics/valve body unit in order to change the sealing sleeve.

I guess, taking your earlier advise I will keep my old 12k trans oil sump for another 30-40K's before replacing it and only change the oil. Also, wit the pan on, only 4 litres of oil drained, when I took the pan off, another 1.5 litres of oil drained. So a total of 5.5L with taking the pan off, otherwise only 4L would have come out. Now the pan is hanging on the car while I get new bolts tomorrow, do you think I should still do a 2 drain process suggested earlier or just one?

I don't think I want to remove the mechatronics unit yet on my car, and I do have a new sealing sleeve, if anyone wants to buy that within Australia .

Originally Posted by kskane

Thanks BimmerFan52. But unfortunately, on the 6HP19 there is no space available to remove the sealing sleeve without removing the mechatronics. I am not sure which trans you have, but if you have 6HP!9, you will need to remove the mechatronics/valve body unit in order to change the sealing sleeve.

I guess, taking your earlier advise I will keep my old 12k trans oil sump for another 30-40K's before replacing it and only change the oil. Also, wit the pan on, only 4 litres of oil drained, when I took the pan off, another 1.5 litres of oil drained. So a total of 5.5L with taking the pan off, otherwise only 4L would have come out. Now the pan is hanging on the car while I get new bolts tomorrow, do you think I should still do a 2 drain process suggested earlier or just one?

I don't think I want to remove the mechatronics unit yet on my car, and I do have a new sealing sleeve, if anyone wants to buy that within Australia .

If your objective is to run fresh fluid then yes you should drain and fill twice.
Doing it twice will mean you will have 85-90% new fluid.

Originally Posted by kskane

Thanks BimmerFan52. But unfortunately, on the 6HP19 there is no space available to remove the sealing sleeve without removing the mechatronics. I am not sure which trans you have, but if you have 6HP!9, you will need to remove the mechatronics/valve body unit in order to change the sealing sleeve.

I guess, taking your earlier advise I will keep my old 12k trans oil sump for another 30-40K's before replacing it and only change the oil. Also, wit the pan on, only 4 litres of oil drained, when I took the pan off, another 1.5 litres of oil drained. So a total of 5.5L with taking the pan off, otherwise only 4L would have come out. Now the pan is hanging on the car while I get new bolts tomorrow, do you think I should still do a 2 drain process suggested earlier or just one?

I don't think I want to remove the mechatronics unit yet on my car, and I do have a new sealing sleeve, if anyone wants to buy that within Australia .

Sounds like you have no leak on your mechatronic sleeve, since you have 5.5 quart/litre on fluid when you dropped the pan. I'll say just replace the filter and re-fill with fresh fluid and you are good to go. BTW always use ZF filter and fluid, just to make sure you have no compatibility issue down the road. Not sure where to get those in down-under.

Originally Posted by bimmerfan52

If your objective is to run fresh fluid then yes you should drain and fill twice.
Doing it twice will mean you will have 85-90% new fluid.

Objective is to fix the original problem at hand "Gear in use without Break" warning message which eventually boiled down to changing oil as you suggested earlier. So if the warning is fixed with one drain, I guess I will save the liquid gold for another 20-30K's

Originally Posted by HPIA4v2

Sounds like you have no leak on your mechatronic sleeve, since you have 5.5 quart/litre on fluid when you dropped the pan. I'll say just replace the filter and re-fill with fresh fluid and you are good to go. BTW always use ZF filter and fluid, just to make sure you have no compatibility issue down the road. Not sure where to get those in down-under.

Found a good deal on ZF liquid gold and will be using that. Do you think it was under filled since only 5.5L came out?

Originally Posted by kskane

Found a good deal on ZF liquid gold and will be using that. Do you think it was under filled since only 5.5L came out?

Not necessarily. Depends how long you let it drain.

You mentioned that the pan was dropped before (pan screws were stripped by a mechanic) but do you know that new fluid was used? Standard practice at many dealerships is to save fluid drained out prior to gasket or sleeve replacement and then put the old fluid back into the sump.

One drain will give you about 55% new fluid. Two drains about 90%. Yes you are trying to correct the solenoid issue but IMHO saving the transmission from future repairs is more important.

While the solenoid issue is annoying I wouldn't call it a serious problem that either inhibits the operation of the car or causes a serious safety issue.

Originally Posted by bimmerfan52

Not necessarily. Depends how long you let it drain.

You mentioned that the pan was dropped before (pan screws were stripped by a mechanic) but do you know that new fluid was used? Standard practice at many dealerships is to save fluid drained out prior to gasket or sleeve replacement and then put the old fluid back into the sump.

One drain will give you about 55% new fluid. Two drains about 90%. Yes you are trying to correct the solenoid issue but IMHO saving the transmission from future repairs is more important.

While the solenoid issue is annoying I wouldn't call it a serious problem that either inhibits the operation of the car or causes a serious safety issue.

BimmerFan52, you are a champion and I would like to say thank you once again for helping me diagnose my transmission problem. Yes, the solenoid warning has gone after three cold starts now. CTSC were definitely helpful in the beginning, but your final suggestion to do a drain did the trick. So here is what I did. I took the pan off to replace the sealing sleeve, but unfortunately I could find the location to replace the sleeve without removing mechatronics unit, so I left that part. The oil was draining for the entire weekend (total of 5.5L came out and oil was dirty but not that bad) as I was to get the new bolts on monday. Monday afternoon, I used the old pan as it was near new after 12,000K's (also suggested to re-use by you) and filled up nearly 6.6/6.7L until the temprature went to about 31-32C, and then torques the filling bolts to 25ft-lb. Monday afternoon, tuessday morning and this morning, NO solenoid warning message.

The only negative part in all this is, I checked for leakage on tuessday and I suspect there might be a very very slight leakage at the bottom of filler plug, which I will monitor over the next couple of weeks. Also, I thought I didn't tighten the bolts on the pan enough, so I tried to tighten my new alternative bolt and just like the BMW bolt the teeths (sides) on my hex bolts started wearing off. So I stopped and just let it be for now. My learning from this, do not touch the bolts on the pan when it is still warm.

Overall, solenoid 4E87 warning is gone by draining and using ZF oil and filling it to the right temperature and quantity. And just in case this pan leaks in next two-three weeks, I will just replace it and do another oil drain then otherwise, leave it alone for another 30-40K's and then change the pan+oil.

You have been of GREAT help BimmerFan52.

Originally Posted by kskane

BimmerFan52, you are a champion and I would like to say thank you once again for helping me diagnose my transmission problem. Yes, the solenoid warning has gone after three cold starts now. CTSC were definitely helpful in the beginning, but your final suggestion to do a drain did the trick. So here is what I did. I took the pan off to replace the sealing sleeve, but unfortunately I could find the location to replace the sleeve without removing mechatronics unit, so I left that part. The oil was draining for the entire weekend (total of 5.5L came out and oil was dirty but not that bad) as I was to get the new bolts on monday. Monday afternoon, I used the old pan as it was near new after 12,000K's (also suggested to re-use by you) and filled up nearly 6.6/6.7L until the temprature went to about 31-32C, and then torques the filling bolts to 25ft-lb. Monday afternoon, tuessday morning and this morning, NO solenoid warning message.

The only negative part in all this is, I checked for leakage on tuessday and I suspect there might be a very very slight leakage at the bottom of filler plug, which I will monitor over the next couple of weeks. Also, I thought I didn't tighten the bolts on the pan enough, so I tried to tighten my new alternative bolt and just like the BMW bolt the teeths (sides) on my hex bolts started wearing off. So I stopped and just let it be for now. My learning from this, do not touch the bolts on the pan when it is still warm.

Overall, solenoid 4E87 warning is gone by draining and using ZF oil and filling it to the right temperature and quantity. And just in case this pan leaks in next two-three weeks, I will just replace it and do another oil drain then otherwise, leave it alone for another 30-40K's and then change the pan+oil.

You have been of GREAT help BimmerFan52.

Glad to hear it turned out well for you.

If you determine that the fill plug is leaking you may have to change it. Try to get closer to the 40C-50C temp spec. Replacing the fill plug before reaching this temperature will result in a very slight overfill. Reminder to start the car and stir the gears before removing the fill plug or fluid will come gushing out.

If you drained 5.5L and filled 6.7L it sure sounds like it was under-filled before you started and it is good that you addressed it.

Be careful applying more than the high end of the specified torque to the pan bolts. The key to obtaining a good seal with the gasket is careful cleaning of the gasket surface on the transmission body and pan, and following the tightening sequence to insure that the gasket seats evenly. For multi-fastener gasket applications I usually go through a tightening sequence in three parts, tightening to 1/3 of torque spec, 2/3 of torque spec and then the full torque spec to insure even seating.

If you end up changing the gasket again and are using other than BMW fasteners you may want to avoid the torx fasteners altogether and go with a standard hex head bolts that you can drive positively (insure the diameter of the bolt or washer matches the diameter of the OE bolt's built-in washer head). When I changed my plugs recently I stripped one of the torx head bolts on one of the brackets that holds the down the ignition coils and prevents them from vibrating loose from the plugs. I didn't dare start drilling on the fastener (metal shavings near plug holes equals disaster) so I bent the two wings on the bracket and was then able to rotate it carefully with a pair of pliers to loosen the torx bolt enough to remove it. I replaced all four bracket bolts with hex head bolts so I don't have to revisit this problem during the next plug change.

Here's to your persistence. Enjoy a Foster's mate and keep wrenchin'!

BimmerFan52,

I have not been on the board in awhile, and wanted to say I forgot how knowledgeable people are here and giving of their time. I read through this thread, and I think it really goes in depth on describing the issue or the number of possibilities.

In my case, I have the exact same message about "Caution: Gear can be engaged without pressing brake."

I have taken this to a local shop and they have said that it is probably a voltage issue as you have pointed out. They said it was probably not worth the hassle to go through if it does not effect regular operation of car."

So, my follow questions to you or the board are: (Consider my car starts without an issue, and drives fine)
1) Is it really worth trying to fix this? Is it likely a harbinger of additional problems to come elsewhere, or is it just that particular voltage issue and such is life. I ask because I live in Buffalo, NY and it is about to become the north pole for a couple of months. I would hate to walk out to car and have it not start or be able to shift due to a compounding eventual problem. While I no nobody can give a guarantee that is the case, is it more likely that it is just an isolate voltage issue or something in the way of shift lock and won't get worse? If so, why would I even bother fixing?
2) Oddly enough, quite a bit ago where my cigarette lighter is broke and there has been a gap there. I often overflow change in the ashtray. There is for sure loose change down in the hole behind the lighter. Is it possible/probably that the issue is related to that chaneg being in there or floating around? I don't know if there is something electronic that could interfere with, or if it physically could get in way of a shift lock pin or something? Is it worth trying to deconstruct console to check? Could I attach a magnet to something to pull out change? If I did, would it screw some electronic up or something?

Thanks in advance for any replies to this. At this point, I am resigned to leave it as is until the next time it is in the shop for something more substantial than regulare maintenance.

By the way, the warning occurs every single time regardless of cold or hot start and never goes away.

Regards,

Paul

Originally Posted by PZimniewicz

BimmerFan52,

I have not been on the board in awhile, and wanted to say I forgot how knowledgeable people are here and giving of their time. I read through this thread, and I think it really goes in depth on describing the issue or the number of possibilities.

In my case, I have the exact same message about "Caution: Gear can be engaged without pressing brake."

I have taken this to a local shop and they have said that it is probably a voltage issue as you have pointed out. They said it was probably not worth the hassle to go through if it does not effect regular operation of car."

So, my follow questions to you or the board are: (Consider my car starts without an issue, and drives fine)
1) Is it really worth trying to fix this? Is it likely a harbinger of additional problems to come elsewhere, or is it just that particular voltage issue and such is life. I ask because I live in Buffalo, NY and it is about to become the north pole for a couple of months. I would hate to walk out to car and have it not start or be able to shift due to a compounding eventual problem. While I no nobody can give a guarantee that is the case, is it more likely that it is just an isolate voltage issue or something in the way of shift lock and won't get worse? If so, why would I even bother fixing?
2) Oddly enough, quite a bit ago where my cigarette lighter is broke and there has been a gap there. I often overflow change in the ashtray. There is for sure loose change down in the hole behind the lighter. Is it possible/probably that the issue is related to that chaneg being in there or floating around? I don't know if there is something electronic that could interfere with, or if it physically could get in way of a shift lock pin or something? Is it worth trying to deconstruct console to check? Could I attach a magnet to something to pull out change? If I did, would it screw some electronic up or something?

Thanks in advance for any replies to this. At this point, I am resigned to leave it as is until the next time it is in the shop for something more substantial than regulare maintenance.

By the way, the warning occurs every single time regardless of cold or hot start and never goes away.

Regards,

Paul

Hi Paul,
My answer to your first question “Is it really worth trying to fix this?” is it depends on how much the light on the dash bothers you. If it doesn’t bother you too much then forget about it.

I would plug the gap where you cigarette lighter is broken and not allow any more loose change to go into the console as this could cause other problems in the future. Whether a coin in your console is causing your present problem I would say probably not. If you are not seeing any other dash warning lights coming on then I think your problem is isolated to the gear shift lock and I wouldn’t worry about it further failing and stranding you.

The gear shift locking system is actually two separate locks. The gear shift is physically locked by a cable and pin when the ignition is in the off and locked position (for those of us who have older models that use keys). When the key is inserted and rotated the cable withdraws the first pin and the cars computer works with the transmission body to send an electronic voltage to the solenoid in the gear shift mechanism in the console to insert the separate second locking pin. Pressing the brake pedal interrupts the voltage and withdraws the second locking pin when you are ready to drive. The voltage to push the second locking pin into position is send from a solenoid in the transmission mechatronic unit and that solenoid apparently can get sticky and not send the signal. The computer senses that the second locking pin solenoid has not been activated and turns the light on in the dash warning that the gear shift lever is not being locked. Is it possible that a loose coin is shorting the solenoid connection? I would think unlikely, but I haven’t seen a console apart so I can’t answer that definitively.

If you have not changed your transmission fluid in a while that is probably your best first step. It certainly is worth trying to see if fresh fluid frees up the sticky solenoid, and the fresh fluid will be very good for the life of your transmission. Figure around $250 for transmission fluid, drain plug gaskets, etc doing it yourself. If you are going to replace your pan (for a new filter) figure $325. It takes two separate drain and fills to refresh nearly all of the fluid so if you have an Indy do it it will be expensive.

If your trans fluid has been changed recently and the dash light bothers you I would go into the console to at least be able to test the voltage on the locking pin solenoid to see if the voltage is being sent. If not then your next step would be going after the solenoid in the transmission body, but that is a large and messy job and you may decide at that point to live with the dash light being on.

Originally Posted by PZimniewicz

BimmerFan52,

2) Oddly enough, quite a bit ago where my cigarette lighter is broke and there has been a gap there. I often overflow change in the ashtray. There is for sure loose change down in the hole behind the lighter. Is it possible/probably that the issue is related to that chaneg being in there or floating around? I don't know if there is something electronic that could interfere with, or if it physically could get in way of a shift lock pin or something? Is it worth trying to deconstruct console to check? Could I attach a magnet to something to pull out change? If I did, would it screw some electronic up or something?


By the way, the warning occurs every single time regardless of cold or hot start and never goes away.

Regards,

Paul

Paul, if the warning occurs every single time regardless of cold or hot, then your solenoid is damaged or disconnected due to coins. Follow the steps I provided along with the picture for the solenoid 4E87 and get rid of all the coins to start with. At this point, maybe by fixing the connector to this solenoid your problem will be fixed. But if the connector is okay, then your solenoid needs to be checked should have 20 Ohms resistance. Good luck, but IMHO it sounds like coins are the root cause, but is the damage simple or big will depend on the condition of the solenoid.

I had this issue on my 550 and they replaced the shifter to fix it.

All,

Thank you so much for the replies. So, I yanked of gear knob and was also able to get in hole by cigarette lighter. It took awhile and some patience, but I removed a good amoun of change. As I went through the process, I found a dime that looked like it had better days, a bit chewed up and bent. I got all of the change out and closed up. Started the far, and viola, message gone. Lucky,maybe, but who knows what that wedged in dime was doing.

Seems like all good now. I will update if it returns. Leaves me with a follow up. My car had 101,820 on it. I would like to get another 40000 put of it if I could. It sounds like from what I have read that a tranny fluid change is now recommended by many. I currently experience no transmission issues at all. Is the generally accepted practice now to do this regardless? Am I to late to the game or better to ride it out already at 100k?

Your opinions are most valued. Not sure if I would try to tackle this myself or work with my Indy to try and arrange a fair price.

Again, I very much appreciate the previous replies to my post. I wouldn't have had the nerve to rip up the shifter if I did not feel comfortable. I can't believe it worked.

Paul

Originally Posted by PZimniewicz

All,

Thank you so much for the replies. So, I yanked of gear knob and was also able to get in hole by cigarette lighter. It took awhile and some patience, but I removed a good amoun of change. As I went through the process, I found a dime that looked like it had better days, a bit chewed up and bent. I got all of the change out and closed up. Started the far, and viola, message gone. Lucky,maybe, but who knows what that wedged in dime was doing.

Seems like all good now. I will update if it returns. Leaves me with a follow up. My car had 101,820 on it. I would like to get another 40000 put of it if I could. It sounds like from what I have read that a tranny fluid change is now recommended by many. I currently experience no transmission issues at all. Is the generally accepted practice now to do this regardless? Am I to late to the game or better to ride it out already at 100k?

Your opinions are most valued. Not sure if I would try to tackle this myself or work with my Indy to try and arrange a fair price.

Again, I very much appreciate the previous replies to my post. I wouldn't have had the nerve to rip up the shifter if I did not feel comfortable. I can't believe it worked.

Paul

I am surprised that coins were apparently enough to short the solenoid or block the action of the pin but that was a cheap fix and good news!

It is never too late to renew fluids. If you are game, take a crack at it yourself. It is not brain surgery.

You will need a couple of basic tools and a torque wrench. If you are going to do the pan buy some extra bolts ahead of time as the torque heads are easily striped.
You will need four jack stands or two jack stands and two ramps as the car must be level during the fill process.

Nealy all of the tools can be had very cheaply at Harbor Freight Tool and are good enough for occasional use. Watch for ads in the back of major car magazines for HFT ads with coupons for generous discounts.

There are some excellent DIY procedures for the E60 transmission fluid change on this forum. And because two drain and fills are required with a week or two to mix the fluid in between, having it done by an Indy means two separate visits to the shop and gets costly.

Besides, once you have the tools you will want to do your rear differential fluid also and you will have everything you need.

Tip: reset transmission adaptations if/when you do change the oil. Mine went bazirk until I did that, and I sure more than one transmission has been mistakenly taken for dead because of not doing this.

Originally Posted by schpenxel

Tip: reset transmission adaptations if/when you do change the oil. Mine went bazirk until I did that, and I sure more than one transmission has been mistakenly taken for dead because of not doing this.

+1
Good point. I didn't have to do mine but each situation is different. It certainly can't hurt.
The pan and sealing sleeve had been changed on mine 15k miles before I did my fluid change and maybe the dealer did it (all before I owned the car).

Thanks all. I am going to take a look through the procedure to see if I feel comfortable doing something like this myself. It sounds like it would be a smart move and give my transmission some additional life potentially or stop potential problems from creeping up. Does the procedure explain how to reset transmission adaptions?

Paul

I doubt it.

You'll have to get INPA going to do it.. there are plenty of threads that explain that around here somewhere