How to make your own BMW special cooling system & drive belt counterhold tools

For the record, someone was looking for this thread today:
- Looking For "Make your own Fan Tool"

And this PDF (seemingly of the initial JPEG posted in this thread) came out:
- How to make your own BMW special cooling system & drive belt counterhold tools - bimmerfest - BM.pdf (45.1 KB)

For the record, someone today didn't know about this thread where there are PLENTY of alternatives for holding the waterpump bolts in place while removing the fan clutch nut:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > tools for a new owner

Originally Posted by vclifford

Hi,I am a new owner of a 2001 530i. I am planning to do a coolant system overhaul ... Do I need 32 mm wrench for fan clutch or a 32 mm socket mounted on 1/2" drive will do. http://www.harborfreight.com/32mm-x-12-drive-impact-socket-67830.html

I will first try a screw driver for holding the waterpump from turning and then go for special tool

To help that OP out, I pointed him to this thread, which has many options, most of which are far better than using a screwdriver and "32mm socket" ... and all of which are far more likely to work!

Hopefully, that OP will do the job, and then write back here as to which tools he found best so that the NEXT person benefits, as always, from each of our repairs!

For the crosslinked record, today Dan reported that his cooling system overhaul went well ... and ... he didn't need anything more than a screwdriver to hold the waterpump pulley in place when removing the fan clutch nut:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Finished my cooling system, thanks guys!

Originally Posted by Danios

the fan clutch counter holder is probably helpful but CN90's recommendation with lodging a screwdriver by the nut worked just fine

For the record, make sure the counterhold tool you make is as strong as you can make it!

Why? GSA1 this weekend, had a problem with a counterhold tool that worked previously just fine, multiple times, - but two of them bent on this particular fourth vehicle:
- Please help me!!.. Vanos seals install

We got to the fan bolt removal process and broke the hold down tool..One I made [based on plans from this thread] and had used three times before. No problem (I thought). Added some PB Blaster and took out the metal stock I bought that was leftover from the other, original tool build; and cut, drilled and grinded out a new one. After hours of PB Blasting and trying to break the nut free, the second tool bent and was unusable.

SO...I decided to remove the entire cooling system from the car at the water pump. Not very easy to do, unless the fan is out of the way, but we managed. Also took out the radiator to facilitate removal of everything as a unit. The nut wouldn't break free with the unit off the car either.

To which Fudman concurred that a strong steel tool is needed:

Your story reminds me of when Hooray! came over for his seals replacement. I had built a fan nut holder out of some cheesy flat plate steel bar that bent when we tried to apply torque. Belt friction didn't work and NeverSayNever wasn't home to borrow his. We fortunately found a machine shop that modified a garage door arm for us (for only $30!). That delay cost us about 3 hrs.

Moral of the story:
- You may not need strong steel (mine, for example, was easy to remove)
- But - you may need strong steel (so plan ahead).

For the record, for E46 M54 owners, this thread has good detail:
- Pictorial DIY: BMW E46 Fan Clutch Removal & Engine Belts Change For Automatic Cars

For the record, this thread has helped others recently:
- E46 (1999 - 2006) > Help needed. Drive pulley nut stuck.

Originally Posted by jonathan2263

Does anyone have a sketch of the tool? I have the ability to manufacture one myself. I just need to know where to drill the holes.

Also, in that thread, is one reason why the BFH method is dangerous:

Originally Posted by jonathan2263

Naturally, the wrench slipped and cracked the plastic coupler between the thermostat and upper radiator hose.

Of course, it helps to hit the hammer in the right direction (clockwise), which was partly the reason for the additional damage above, apparently.

For the record, today yet another E39 owner has had problems getting the viscous fan clutch off ...
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > e39 fan clutch removal, need help

Originally Posted by jcvara

I am trying to finish my cooling system overhaul but cant seem to loosen the fan clutch off of the water pump, any suggestions???

Here are some answers to leverage back to here so others benefit.

Originally Posted by Fudman

There are three common approachs:
1. Use the belt friction to hold the clutch while whacking the 32 mm wrench. (see the Beisan DIY)
2. Use the fan clutch holder tool (~$20) to hold it in place and a 32 mm wrench.
3. Use a screwdriver and wedge it into the clutch to hold it. (This is a cn90 trick)
I find the fan clutch tool works easiest with lowest risk of causing damage. Put a dab of anti-seize on the threads when you reassemble for easier future removal.

EDIT: Fudman provided this ZDMack link in that thread, so others benefit:

Originally Posted by MatWiz

I am not sure because you've been here for such a long time, but do you know about the Quote feature?

I know about the quote feature; but I only recently learned about the multi-quote '' doohickey!

In addition, I just learned from this thread today of a NEW counterhold tool that holds the waterpump bolts steady by enveloping them on three sides:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > e39 fan clutch removal, need help

• Performance Tool W80585 Ford Fan Clutch Wrench Set
• 2-1/4" wide X 2-1/2" long (length to opening)

You can buy it on Ebay ...

The beauty of this counterhold tool is that it appears to be even simpler to fabricate than the BMW-specific counterhold tool!

Now what we need are the measurements for the rectangular cutout.

Googling for the Ford counterhold tool set, I see that the wrench is included with the $15 set, as shown here:



My first question is the SIZE of the wrench (for example, if it's 32mm, it's ideal). It doesn't say in the advertisement above what the wrench size is.

Here's another hit, but it also doesn't say what the wrench size is:


Googling s'more, it appears that Ford has three sizes for the wrench.

For example, see this reference for the Lisle 41800 Fan Clutch Wrench Set for Ford - 4 Piece: which tells us that Ford has two or three sizes.

• Removes fan clutch on most Ford vehicles
• The double-ended wrench and small holding wrench work on 2.8L, 2.9L, 3.0L, 4.0L and 4.9L engines
• The larger open-end wrench and larger holding wrench fit 6.9L and 7.3L diesel engines

Here's a KD Tools 3296 Ford Fan Clutch Wrench Set for 6.9- and 7.3-L Engines which says, unfortunately, that the wrench is 48mm, and not the 32mm that we need for the fan clutch nut itself.

• Use with 1/2" square drive tools and a torque wrench
• Remove and replace fan assembly on Ford 6.9L and 7.3L engines
• Wrench openings- Long: 48mm
• Wrench openings- Short: 83mm

A customer review of a similar tool said "The only problem is the short wrench or pulley holder is too big for the later model 7.3 diesel motors", so from that we can surmise there are at least three sizes in all for the Ford counterhold tool sets.

Even Snap-On sells these tools: YA9325 Set, Ford Fan Clutch Wrench:

Description:
36 and 58mm set. Includes YA9325-1 and YA9325-2. GAS APPLICATIONS: E-Series trucks 4.9L (1984-1991), F-Series trucks 4.9L (1984-1992), Bronco II and Ranger 2.8L (1984-1985), Ranger 2.9L (1986-1992), Aerostar 3.0L (1986-1988), Aerostar and Ranger 4.0L OHV (1990 and later), Explorer 4.0L OHV (1991 and later), Mazda Navajo 4.0L OHV (1991-1994), Mazda B4000 4.0L OHV (1995 and later), Explorer 4.0L V6 SOHC (1997 and later) and Mountaineer 4.0L V6 SOHC (1998 and later).

If any of you own a Ford, would you kindly let us know which of these are most applicable to the BMW E39?

Here, BTW, from this engine-components thread:
- What is this engine part? (Getting to know my M54 engine bay)

Is a picture of my counterhold and fan clutch tools in place during my alternator replacement fiasco:
- One users' example of total electrical failure (AAA towed away) alternator repair (1)


x

For the cross-linked record, this thread about counterhold tools today:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > How to replace the fan clutch?

Contained this particularly nice fan-clutch removal video:

Yet another method was described today for immobilizing the water pump pulley while removing the fan clutch:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > AUX Fan or AUX Fan Resistor

A tennis ball!

Originally Posted by Ed Cheung

... Previously I used a tennis ball to jam the water pump pulley and the belt in order to loosen the fan clutch with a 32mm wrench ...

It works well in a rover v8, which has more space between the engine and the pulley than does the E39, so it is pretty easy to feed the ball in between the pulley and the belt right at the center. ... but have to place the tennis ball in the perfect position ...

I learned the tennis ball trick from Discoweb:
http://www.discoweb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=32746

Originally Posted by discoweb

Apparently you can wedge an old deflated tennis ball in between the pulley and the belt on the correct side to stop it turning and then using the correct special tool....never tried it myself yet, but met a guy who's used the method for years!

Originally Posted by Ed Cheung

But I was in a rush today, and just used a BIG flat head screwdriver, placed the tip on close to the edge of the fan clutch nuts and nailed it with a BIG hammer - and it popped right out!

The attached pic is the scaled down version of how I place the screwdriver on the nut

I appreciate all the effort everyone puts into this forum. Thanks.

As for pulley holding tool, I've never had one. Now I have an 03 e39 w/ M54. Vehicle history stated one owner (3 yrs in NY, then they ended up in LA). I bought w/ 45K in 06. Now 120K and needed more than std attention.

Apparently all that time wherever has really corroded some stuff up. (Rear disks frozen to hubs; will deal with that later). But pump pulley fan nut was incredibly frozen. I started to think "Maybe I've had a stoke and spazzed out and am just turning it the wrong way..." 3 days of PB blaster, large applied forces, and tears (As in from my eye; lol). Thought I was gonna have to buy a tool, didn't have time to wait. Tried the prybar trick (has always worked in past) and it only succeded in BUSTING the belt pulley AS THE M6 bolts BENT under pressur and craked the plastic pulley! WTF and plenty of bad words.

So today I was going to make a tool like you all had drawn and got to thinking "All the pressure on the tool is on a 'clockwise' nut" so I drilled ONE hole and threaded one of the good M6 bolts thru it (center of hole - 1/4" drill bit - was approx 3/8" from bottom of piece of flat stock) and the 2" to the end of the bar was plain. The nut held pressure on LOTS of material, and open end-rested on top of pulley shaft (where you all had the debate about the size of the semi-circle). The other end (18" flat stock) I rested on a wood block where the air filter normally sits. Two of the M6's are STILL in the pulley; bent to hell.

I was sort of shocked how little force it finally took to bust off finally.

So hopefully in next few days I'll get VANOS seals, CCV junk, water pump, thermostat, going with new radiator (another cheap plastic replacement OEM; - this one lasted 9 yrs. Don't have 7bills for an all AL), fuel filter, new hoses (old ones only 3 yrs, but why risk it) and whatever else I ordered. Rebuilt alternator today.

(/aside Saw somewhere on here 'The small rear bearing is usually okay'; not in my case. It makes noise spinning by hand. Of course, this air cooled alt is poor design. Needs a piece of screen over intake port to keep debris out. I had wasps, leaves, dirt caked on, bird feathers and tumbleweek sticks all cramed in the back of the housing. /endaside)

The attached document contain the drawing w exact dimension to scale.
Print the PDF (link below) using direction in document and use as a template to build your own tool.
No need to measure in metric or English just print, cut and use as a template
When u print from PDF make sure you select none for page scaling.
Thanks
Mhnd

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/att...4&d=1326903921

Originally Posted by coopster530

"All the pressure on the tool is on a 'clockwise' nut"

Interesting observation.

Originally Posted by coopster530

I drilled ONE [¼"] hole [in 18" long steel stock] (where the center of the ¼" hole was approximately 3/8" from the bottom of the flat stock and 2" from the end) and then threaded one of the good M6 bolts thru it

I'm having trouble visualizing this tool, and how a bolt on the end of it held the water pump pulley in place... but your novel invention appears to be such a well-engineered approach that it's a shame not to have a picture of the resulting tool!

Originally Posted by Mhnd

The attached document contains the CAD drawing with the exact dimensions to scale.

Thank you very much for creating and posting this wonderful CAD drawing for others to simply draw out on a flat piece of 4mm thick steel stock!
- Fan Clutch removal tool Scale Template print.pdf

So that everyone can easily find it, I uploaded it to post #61 of the bestlinks thread, using a keyword-rich naming convention so that various search terms will find it in the future, long after we're gone.

For the record, someone who just did their cooling system said the 1¼ inch wrench is the wrong size for the 32mm nut:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Notes from my cooling system overhaul

Originally Posted by cwpo1

1. The 32mm wrench to remove the fan is non-negotiable. The 1 1/4 wrench will not work. DO NOT WASTE YOUR TIME!

For the cross-linked record, apparently SOME BMWs 'can' use a standard Craftsman 32mm open-end wrench on the fan clutch nut.

For example, this DIY of a 2006 BMW X5 3.0 (M54) Automatic shows the standard wrench working just fine.
- The Best of Bimmerfest! > Do-It-Yourself H.Q. > DIY: Water Pump, Thermostat, Hoses & Coolant Flush : X5 3.0

For the record, some folks must be buying $50 wrenches for their cooling system overhauls!

Originally Posted by BentValve

I noticed this wrench is going for $55 and I just had to laugh. Guess it was made by Sasquatch himself coated in God's saliva.

32mm = 1.259". Depending how much tolerance you have, this may, or may not work. Don't forget to add corrosion buildup on the nut

Even after all these years, people are still trying to remove the fan clutch nut without any counterhold apparatus whatsoever!

Originally Posted by 2k528i

I've done the reading on how to remove the fan, I know it's a reverse thread but I can't get mine to break loose. The belt tension is not enough to hold it, it just slips.

I've sprayed it with PB blaster and let it set.. no luck.

You can't really put any pressure on the pulley because of the cheap plastic crap it's made out of... does anyone have any ideas?

The writeups make it sound like it should come loose so easily... I'm about to drop a tree on this car.

Originally Posted by occhis

You need to get the tool

Originally Posted by 2k528i

what other tool is there?

EDIT: This was also posted today.

Originally Posted by bimcwe

Is there anyway to replace the Idler Pulley without taking out the radiator fan/shroud out? Apparently you need a special tool to remove it, and I certainly don't have said tool.
Going by :

For the record, this related pointer to the 32mm wrench was posted today:

Originally Posted by Studawg

On sale at Northern Tool and Equipment, just figured I would pass it along. Needed it to replace my fan clutch today, which was really easy, took all of 10 minutes.

Originally Posted by EconoBox

$6.50 shipping for a total of $14...

Originally Posted by bluebee

Best place to post this information is here:
- Tools necessary for a cooling system overhaul

Plus, since links with prices are ephemeral, it's best to screenshot the pointer:

Thanks to all who posted! If I could have got the tools for $19 or $39 in time to do the fix and get the car running for Monday morning, i would have! The longer belt failed, taking the water pump out with it, and I needed the car back on the road to get to work! Thanks BlueBee for the suggestion of using a speed clamp, I even had a rusty one ready to sacrifice. However, since the pump was so broken it would not sit still enough to use the screw heads for leverage, I took a slightly different route, using bolts the same size/thread as those that hold the pulley on, I drilled only one hole in the metal stock from the clamp, bolted it to the pulley face, and then put another, slightly longer bolt in the adjacent hole, for the face of the clamp stock to press against, its end held firmly in place by the adjacent bolt. Without pics, this may be confusing; but in the real world, it worked! Two new belts and a water pump, under $100 total, and the car is on the road again! Oh yeah, a gallon of anti-freeze to boot.

For the crosslinked record, this thread was opened today by someone asking about the fan clutch nut removal tool:

Originally Posted by sae85400

So I searched and found this...

Northern Industrial 32mm Combination Wrench - Mirror Finish
Only $829
Guaranteed Lowest Prices
QTY


But then I also see this on an ebay search.. do i need both pieces or will just the 32mm wrench from Northern Industrial work..(tried calling AAP and AZ but neither carries the tool to rent)