E30 Build Thread

Pressed in a new passenger ball joint today, I think I'm going to get one for the other side too, has a wee bit of play in the wheel. The passenger side had a ton of play.




I think I'm going to purchase these as well, thoughts?


http://www.ebay.com/itm/84-85-BMW-31...4b900b&vxp=mtr



Can't figure out the high and wompy idle either. I cannot find any vac leaks using the spray carb cleaner technique. Not sure what else it could be other than injectors.

My 318 had started that after I cleaned the icv. I think the spray killed it

Hm interesting. I ordered those injectors. Maybe I need an icv.

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Almost ready to put the interior together:

Applied bed liner to the driver's side after a clean and vacuum







Cleaned the used carpet I bought






Then used black spray paint (don't hate)




I put on a LOT of coats. Between them I would brush the carpet to make it a little softer and make sure everything was covered. I'm going to do another coat or two tomorrow when it's nice and completely dry. We'll see how it turns out.




Cleaned the door cards





Then used Duplicolor fabric dye in flat black





Should have it all done this weekend.

Got a couple of things done today. First, started putting the interior back together, have the windows all wired up now (weren't before) and mostly everything done. I'm also trying to fix the leak around the fuel pump assembly, if I fill it up the whole way it spews out. I put a new o ring in and I'll fill it up tomorrow and see what happens.





Front of the interior is mostly done, needs a cleaning now for sure. I'd also like to redo the seats sometime, ideas? Products? Experience?

Again, low quality low light pictures.






Check out my new gas pedal yo, been driving it without one at all for the last month! lol




Injectors showed up, look very very nice. All new O rings and the like, not bad for 68 bucks shipped total.








Runs GREAT!! No miss at all, climbs all the way to redline. I figured something was up with the injectors, the rest of the fuel system is new (soft lines, filter, pump, pressure regulator) as is the spark plugs, wire, cap, and rotor. I also used up 3/4 ish of a tank and only got 94 miles. One or more of them were stuck open for sure. One other thing to note is the the injectors tested perfectly with a multimeter.


Now the only problem is idle, there is no miss anymore but it isn't quite right. Bumps up and down sometimes, and is always high (1500rpm if not more)


I cleaned the ICV but maybe I killed it in the process? Like I said I don't think there are any Vac leaks but who knows.

Prob a vac leak or the ICV like you said.

How can I remove the Iac to check other things? I heard something about a penny with a hole in it?

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Originally Posted by FenderBender

How can I remove the Iac to check other things? I heard something about a penny with a hole in it?

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That's just a way to reduce the air volume and manually tame the idle. It will never work right and may cause the dme to make adjust fuel trims and make it run worse after adaptation. I would just unplug it to see if it functions it should spin and make a buzzing sound when running.

Check the engine for a large vacuum leak, smoke test is a great method to locate problem areas. While it may be the IACV, I would start with the basics.

Where/how could I do this smoke test?

well, first, you get the funny papers from the corner gas station. next, acquire some...oh, wait...not *that* kind of smoke test...



sorta like the smoke machine the dj's would use back in the day. pressurized with nitrogen, pumped into the intake. about 1psi is all it takes to fill the system, and then you look for the leaks.



any emissions shop would be able to do it.



df

Originally Posted by drivinfaster

well, first, you get the funny papers from the corner gas station. next, acquire some...oh, wait...not *that* kind of smoke test...



sorta like the smoke machine the dj's would use back in the day. pressurized with nitrogen, pumped into the intake. about 1psi is all it takes to fill the system, and then you look for the leaks.



any emissions shop would be able to do it.



df

Or for the folks in CA,WA and CO.

Remove mech fan and shroud
Fire up blunt
Fire up engine
blow smoke at motor and watch where it sucks the smoke.

Non smokers can replace blunt with an incense stick also.

^^^^hahahahahahahaha

I want to see the look on my customers face when they see under Workshop material:
1 Cohiba

Originally Posted by Nick323

I want to see the look on my customers face when they see under Workshop material:
1 Cohiba

It would likely resemble something like this


The perks of being a tech.

Haven't fiddled with the surging yet, but I do have a mostly finished interior pic and such.

Leatherique would do wonders for those seats. Probably fix everything but that worn-through bolster.

Looking good, none-the-less.

Thanks Ken. Is that a brand of leather conditioner or something better?

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It's a whole system of restoration and preservation products and dyes.

http://www.leatherique.com/

Late Christmas present from the GF!










Also, bought an IAC, should be here tomorrow, hopefully that takes care of the idle issue.

New IAC, idle is definitely better, some cases it's perfect, then other times it still bounces up and down. Does the computer have to adjust?









When I first fired it up it sounded no different. Then after probably 2 minutes the idle came down to 700 ish and sounded pretty good. Next time I fired it up it did the same thing. Then when I got home I let it idle and it didn't come down, stayed around 1000rpm and bounced slightly. Again later I fired it up and it came down to 700ish again and sounded good. Thoughts?



Also, my buddy said it smells pretty rich. Injectors are new as well as FPR, etc. Could it be the cold start injector sticking or would the IAC effect that?

More likely the engine temp sensor is marginal. That's what tells the ECU where to set the IAC and also sets the fuel map for the engine temp. If it fails to sense the engine is warmed up, it continues to pour more fuel to the engine and runs the IAC in warm-up mode. The temp sensor is test-able, but I don't have the figures in front of me. The E30 Bentley has the info you need.

Which sensor? Because I replaced one of the coolant temp sensors.

The temp switch that Is being mentioned is located closest to the FPR and closet to the valve cover (yellowish looking) here are the resistance values:

14 +/- 2 degrees F: 7000-11600 ohms
68 +/- 2 degrees F: 2100-2900 ohms
176 +/- 2 degrees F: 270-400 ohms

Replaced it. I do have a rad leak and have to fill every few days, maybe the coolant isn't fully reaching / pressurizing enough to get a good reading?

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This temp switch switches a ground circuit for the timing and idle control.

Oh forgot here is the test procedure:
-Disconnect the white wire(s) from the switch
-check for continuity between the switch terminal corresponding to the white wire and ground
-at coolant temps below 86 F there should be no continuity
-coolant temps above 118F there should be continuity (switch closed)
Any faults or values out of spec should be addressed by replacing sensor.