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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E36 (1991 - 1999)

E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 08-08-2012, 05:06 PM
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JoshuaG JoshuaG is offline
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Welding Question


I need a question answered.

The lower shock bolt had stripped out of the trailing arm on my ride and I donít want to have to replace my entire rear trailing arm. The hole is a blind hole and I canít find a recoil kit with a bottoming tap to give a complete hole to rethread. So I thought filling it and retapping it seems like the best answer.

My question is would it be better to drill all the way through and fill from both sides, or try to get the wire feed in as deep as I can and try to fill it up that way? Or would it be prudent to drill though and then weld in a stud?

Yes I can weld. I am out of practice and Itís not the prettiest but my seams hold.
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  #2  
Old 08-08-2012, 05:15 PM
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jonesin jonesin is offline
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Josh, search for CJ's "Broken Bolt thread".

He dealt with exactly this not long ago.
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  #3  
Old 08-08-2012, 06:20 PM
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JoshuaG JoshuaG is offline
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Thanks!
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  #4  
Old 08-08-2012, 06:48 PM
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drivinfaster drivinfaster is offline
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Originally Posted by jonesin View Post
Josh, search for CJ's "Broken Bolt thread".

He dealt with exactly this not long ago.
i believe that was for a conttrol arm mounting point, not the shock. unlessi am confused.

(it happens sometimes....)



anyway, i believe that you will need one of these...
http://www.wttool.com/index/page/pro...aps+(Heli-Coil)

it's just the tap, but it's a blind hole sti tap (sti = standard thread insert), which i do not believe comes with the kit. it only comes with a standard taper fit, which may even work, not sure. it depends on how deep the threads go, how much of the hole is left open.


the bolt s/b a 12x1.5x60mm. worst case scenario, use the regular tapered tap and add a washer onthe outside to take up the space from not bottoming out.

i'd not suggest welding, though. at least not regular steel to cast. unless you've got the set up to do so, in which case, the few bucks for the tap isn't going to be much anyway....



good luck.





df
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  #5  
Old 08-08-2012, 06:53 PM
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jonesin jonesin is offline
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Crap. I read too fast. I skipped 'shock' and read trailing arm.
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  #6  
Old 08-08-2012, 06:54 PM
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JoshuaG JoshuaG is offline
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You sir are awesome! I was just about to say I had a different issue then you gave me this... This wonderful piece of epicness.
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  #7  
Old 08-08-2012, 07:02 PM
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drivinfaster drivinfaster is offline
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would you *PLEASE* let mrs. df know how epic-ly awesome i am so she'll be nice to me??






df
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  #8  
Old 08-08-2012, 07:03 PM
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JoshuaG JoshuaG is offline
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Wait the bolt and coil kit I have are 12x1.75 I'll have to ask if they have it when I call in the morning.
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  #9  
Old 08-08-2012, 07:09 PM
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drivinfaster drivinfaster is offline
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the bolt that holds the shock is a 1.75 pitch?? i didn't look at an actual bolt, i just looked it up on real oem. could be a typo.


regardless, here...


http://www.wttool.com/index/page/pro...28Heli-Coil%29



yes, i know....
df
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  #10  
Old 11-27-2012, 08:11 AM
josephroberts75 josephroberts75 is offline
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maybe you could drill though and put a bolt thru it with a nut and never have to worry about stripped treads?
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  #11  
Old 11-27-2012, 10:28 AM
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I had this but caught it in time to tap in new threads. I think they had to weld in an insert, though. MSW did it for like $50. They're so awesome.
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this jared guy sounds intimidating lol.
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