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E34 (1989 - 1995)

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  #51  
Old 05-29-2012, 10:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E34Addict View Post
Yes"95 E34", that's exactly the verdict. I will sure keep you posted. Despite the disappointments I had in this project, I am really enjoying this site. I run every night to open my laptop and inform you of my progress through out the day, given the real help and positive feedback I am receiving from you guys. It is always nice and such a pleasure to share such things with people who are eager to know and help. Thanks for lifting my morals up and I will sure keep you posted about it.
We do what we can. and thats exactly why I love it here
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  #52  
Old 05-30-2012, 10:59 PM
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First problem: I had a mismatch in the electric wiring installation plugs (Sorry I do not know the correct wording but I will let the pictures explain) between the wires coming from the engine and the wires coming from the car (The first picture is that of the engine and the second is that of the car). What shall I do?
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  #53  
Old 05-31-2012, 04:31 AM
snowsled7 snowsled7 is offline
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I would guess that you need a wiring diagram for each. Then you probably need to build new connectors wired to match each other.

This is one of the issues I was referring too when I mentioned it wasn't just going to bolt up. How much age difference between the chassis and the M50? Getting the engine wired in will be a pain, but it is do-able. Good Luck
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  #54  
Old 05-31-2012, 05:18 AM
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I checked the price of the 535i engine and it will cost me 900$. Here in Lebanon, it is different than the States or Canada. We have no salvage yards. People here keep fixing their vehicles even after making accidents for a lot of times. They even buy vehicles over the internet from American Salvage yards, import it, fix it and sell it to roll again on the streets. So finding the 535i engine is hard and it is really expensive. That's why I am sticking to the M50. I totally understood your worries snowsled7 but I hope I will pass through this successfully. Now, the chassis is 1989 and the M50 engine is 1992. The problem is that the engine wires (pins) are more than the vehicle's wires. I will seek the help of an expert to get it done. But do you think that the OBC and the dashboard would still work if I "Re-map the wires"?
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  #55  
Old 05-31-2012, 07:00 AM
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Get the right Ecu, I believe it's a silver label for a non-VANOS M50, but, unlike everything I say, that's not gospel. Lol. But with the right ECU, DME and harness to fit the engine, it'll all bolt together fine. Think of the motor as one piece of the whole unit; the whole unit being:
ECU, motor, and harness -> all matching. Then it should be able to almost literally, plug right in.
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  #56  
Old 05-31-2012, 07:34 AM
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I already got the DME/ECU connected to the engine with the wiring harness. My problem is the wiring harness that remained in the chassis after removing the old engine (This wiring harness extends from the engine compartment to the inside of the vehicle behind the dashboard). This wiring was connected to the old engine through a connector. Now the engine side wiring is equipped with a different connector (plug) as I showed in the pictures. So are you saying that I have to remove the wiring harness from the vehicle and get another one to fit that of the engine? Anyway, I will get some detailed photos of what I have at hand to better assess. Thanks again..
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  #57  
Old 05-31-2012, 08:45 AM
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Ohhhhhhhh I see. No, do not remove the cars harness. Snow sled got it right. Find wiring diagrams for both an splice matching wires together. Figure out what the extra wires from the engine side are for and how to compensate if need be
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  #58  
Old 05-31-2012, 06:08 PM
snowsled7 snowsled7 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95 E34 View Post
Ohhhhhhhh I see. No, do not remove the cars harness. Snow sled got it right. Find wiring diagrams for both an splice matching wires together. Figure out what the extra wires from the engine side are for and how to compensate if need be
Probably would have worked if the donor engine was e34 of the same year.

I don't know if the OBC will still work or not, you may be the first to know
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  #59  
Old 05-31-2012, 06:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95 E34 View Post
Get the right Ecu, I believe it's a silver label for a non-VANOS M50, but, unlike everything I say, that's not gospel. Lol. But with the right ECU, DME and harness to fit the engine, it'll all bolt together fine. Think of the motor as one piece of the whole unit; the whole unit being:
ECU, motor, and harness -> all matching. Then it should be able to almost literally, plug right in.
Hey Joe. The silver label DME is for the 95 model M50 with the EWSII. The red label works with the vanos M50. Can't remember what color matches the non-vanos DME (green I think).
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  #60  
Old 05-31-2012, 10:06 PM
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I think you are right, I counted the wires and I have 5 more additional wires coming from the engine. I will compare the wiring diagrams of the M30 and M50 to know how to proceed. By the way, the engine is the single vanos M50 not the non-vanos version. I got the pictures to show you the whole wiring harness. I am worried about the dashboard computer the most with respect to this swap.
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  #61  
Old 06-01-2012, 06:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR_LVR View Post
Hey Joe. The silver label DME is for the 95 model M50 with the EWSII. The red label works with the vanos M50. Can't remember what color matches the non-vanos DME (green I think).
I have a 95 M50 VANOS with a 413 red, dont know about EWSII though. thats greek to me, i know that you are to go-to guy about it though. Green sounds about right, but its a moot point now. OP has the motors DME so the issue now is getting it to match his OBC.

Quote:
Originally Posted by E34Addict View Post
I think you are right, I counted the wires and I have 5 more additional wires coming from the engine. I will compare the wiring diagrams of the M30 and M50 to know how to proceed. By the way, the engine is the single vanos M50 not the non-vanos version. I got the pictures to show you the whole wiring harness. I am worried about the dashboard computer the most with respect to this swap.
The OBC for the car will only read as much as it has wires for., match them up and it will work just as it did with the M30. The extra wires coming off of the motor side are for further readings and sensors that the engine has that the car wasnt produced to display. Worst case, they dont get wired to the obc and those 5 wires dont get to display whatever information they provide.

I'll assume that the OBC has enough information to keep the motor in running shape as it has with the M30, things like coolant level, oil level, coolant temp, thermostat etc... Depending on if those 5 extra wires are information on motor vitals, we may need to begin to theorize how we're gonna get this done. I hope you dont have to go to the extreme of swapping the cars harness although it is doable...

Keeping my fingers crossed for you OP
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  #62  
Old 06-02-2012, 05:23 AM
snowsled7 snowsled7 is offline
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Wiring can be intimidating, it is for me. I had to take a moment when I realized I had to re-wire the transfer case motor on my truck to replace it. It was a matter of 7 pinned wires swapped to a new connector, and it was simple in the end but, OP I feel your pain on the wiring.

I don't think there will be any cause to replace the chassis harness. Those factory connectors can be broken down, sorted and set up to match fairly easily I think. What works in the end is anybody's guess. You have and engine and a chassis separated by several years. Do the sensors on the newer M50 read in the same voltage and resistance ranges as the ones on the M30? Probably, but who really knows until you hook them up. This is why some people LOVE doing swaps, because they thrive on figuring it out. HAVING to do a swap is never as much fun as wanting to do a swap.

Sounds like the OP had a pro to help with the wiring. I hope it works out Keep us posted.
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  #63  
Old 06-19-2012, 01:24 AM
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Hello again guys
Sorry for the late reply but I started the M50 engine just yesterday and I have great news this time. It was really a hard job to rematch the wires and set the whole electric circuit correctly (We were a team of 3 people working on it, 2 professionals and myself), but at the end the engine started and the OBC and the dashboard computer worked like charm Below is a list of things that I had to change:

M30 (Automatic transmission) to M50 (single Vanos with manual transmission) swap:

- Engine mounts (The engine mounts that came with the M50 did not bolt, so I had to keep those of the M30)
- Transmission (It was already mounted to the M50 engine so I did not have to worry about the clutch disk and the other components)
- Pedals Pad (Brake, clutch, and throttle)
- Two Clutch pumps
- Drive shaft (I could have cut and welded the old one but i preferred to try not to have any welding in the whole vehicle mechanics and I am successful in that so far)
- Differential (The screws of the new drive shaft did not bolt to the differential as they are thicker in diameter)
- Air filter compartment
- A whole new set of hoses
- Main Radiator (The old one doesn't fit with respect to hoses locations and it doesn't have the coolant level sensor. This sensor used to be on the water tank just below the windshield under the hood in the old engine)
- Complete engine-side electric harness
- car's electric harness re-distribution
- car's main electric connector (The one that I showed its photos previously in this thread)
- DME
- MAF
- Ignition (it was mounted on the M50 and i kept it there and removed the old one with the old engine)
- A/C compressor (it was mounted on the M50 and i kept it there and removed the old one with the old engine)
- Exhaust (The whole thing from the engine all the way to the back with the required gaskets)

Now, we are in the process of "cosmetics", as we are arranging the connected wires and make them look as original as possible and make sure that they are pretty well connected. I will post some photos of what we did and how the vehicle looks like as soon I finish the whole thing.
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  #64  
Old 06-19-2012, 06:08 AM
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fantastic! please post pictures
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  #65  
Old 06-19-2012, 06:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E34Addict View Post
Hello again guys
Sorry for the late reply but I started the M50 engine just yesterday and I have great news this time. It was really a hard job to rematch the wires and set the whole electric circuit correctly (We were a team of 3 people working on it, 2 professionals and myself), but at the end the engine started and the OBC and the dashboard computer worked like charm Below is a list of things that I had to change:

M30 (Automatic transmission) to M50 (single Vanos with manual transmission) swap:

- Engine mounts (The engine mounts that came with the M50 did not bolt, so I had to keep those of the M30)
- Transmission (It was already mounted to the M50 engine so I did not have to worry about the clutch disk and the other components)
- Pedals Pad (Brake, clutch, and throttle)
- Two Clutch pumps
- Drive shaft (I could have cut and welded the old one but i preferred to try not to have any welding in the whole vehicle mechanics and I am successful in that so far)
- Differential (The screws of the new drive shaft did not bolt to the differential as they are thicker in diameter)
- Air filter compartment
- A whole new set of hoses
- Main Radiator (The old one doesn't fit with respect to hoses locations and it doesn't have the coolant level sensor. This sensor used to be on the water tank just below the windshield under the hood in the old engine)
- Complete engine-side electric harness
- car's electric harness re-distribution
- car's main electric connector (The one that I showed its photos previously in this thread)
- DME
- MAF
- Ignition (it was mounted on the M50 and i kept it there and removed the old one with the old engine)
- A/C compressor (it was mounted on the M50 and i kept it there and removed the old one with the old engine)
- Exhaust (The whole thing from the engine all the way to the back with the required gaskets)

Now, we are in the process of "cosmetics", as we are arranging the connected wires and make them look as original as possible and make sure that they are pretty well connected. I will post some photos of what we did and how the vehicle looks like as soon I finish the whole thing.
I rarely, if ever post this, but all I can say is .........

Thanks for sharing your experience and I can't wait to see pics.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #66  
Old 06-19-2012, 01:57 PM
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Thanks RMR_LVR and 95 E34. Actually, the credits shall go to the other two guys who were of a great help. I couldn't have done it without them. I was not planning to post pictures until I have some nice and meaningful ones as the ones that I have do not reflect all the wiring re-matching, however only a small part of it. But since you asked, I will post some photos which were taken since the moment we lifted the engine off the ground until we were in the middle of the effort and working with the wires to show you how messy it was. The wires in those pictures were temporary connected and we were testing. I will share anyways. I will post new photos that contain the main connector wiring and some dashboard computer readings, as soon as everything becomes back in place the way they should be.
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  #67  
Old 07-18-2012, 02:28 PM
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Hi guys
Sorry for posting the photos that late but I was just able to get the photos of how things look like after I am almost more than 90& through the whole process. Below are the pictures.
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  #68  
Old 11-27-2012, 01:06 AM
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Hello again. I was away for a while and had in mind to post the photos of the project E34, before, during, and after. Hope you will like it.
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  #69  
Old 11-27-2012, 05:45 AM
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Mad props to you man. That is so nice. Thanks for getting back to us.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #70  
Old 11-27-2012, 08:40 AM
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Thanks Steve for your support as usual, and for everyone who helped in this thread. I appreciate that a lot. Now I have a question, which I did not do my homework to answer. One of the things that I kept as is was the fuel pump. I don't know why I have the feeling that the engine is not giving its best while I am behind the steering wheel. Is the fuel pump pressure that was in the vehicle with the M30 engine, the same as that of the M50? Could it be that I need to put another pump? (I already got the fuel pump when I bought the M50 engine, but did not install it in the car)
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  #71  
Old 11-27-2012, 12:39 PM
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I think they are the same but I'm not sure. You could look up the part numbers of each model and compare them.
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Most problems are usually something simple !

Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #72  
Old 11-28-2012, 12:11 PM
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Monsignor Monsignor is offline
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Location: Pineapple Under the Sea
 
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Originally Posted by E34Addict View Post
Hello again. I was away for a while and had in mind to post the photos of the project E34, before, during, and after. Hope you will like it.
You. Sir. Win. YOU WIN.





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Originally Posted by E34Addict View Post
Thanks Steve for your support as usual, and for everyone who helped in this thread. I appreciate that a lot. Now I have a question, which I did not do my homework to answer. One of the things that I kept as is was the fuel pump. I don't know why I have the feeling that the engine is not giving its best while I am behind the steering wheel. Is the fuel pump pressure that was in the vehicle with the M30 engine, the same as that of the M50? Could it be that I need to put another pump? (I already got the fuel pump when I bought the M50 engine, but did not install it in the car)
The M30 pump should work just fine, as it demands more fuel than the M50 but thats just my grassroots logic, could be wrong. double check both part numbers and see what matches...
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1995 525iA 250k mi
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  #73  
Old 11-28-2012, 05:51 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Originally Posted by 95 E34 View Post
You. Sir. Win. YOU WIN.


The M30 pump should work just fine, as it demands more fuel than the M50 but thats just my grassroots logic, could be wrong. double check both part numbers and see what matches...
All the fuel pumps are the same. Any fuel pressure differences at the rail are regulated by different fuel pressure regulators separately.

The fuel pump's difference is only between a plastic fuel tank and a metal one. The metal tanks have the fuel pressure regulator right on top of the pump, and both are inside the tank. The plastic ones have their regulator at the engine.

And yes, thanks for checking back in. Incredible project.
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  #74  
Old 11-29-2012, 04:48 AM
E34Addict E34Addict is online now
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Thank you guys. Your support was essential for this E34 project. Since I already got the fuel pump with the regulator of the M50, I will just put it in as this is would be original. Now I have another thing that I noticed. I live at an altitude of 1000 Meters above sea level and it only takes 15 minutes to become at the coast. At the place where I live, at morning start up, everything is excellent. However, through out the day, my idle RPM is never stable and keeps swinging between 0.6 and 1.2 approximately, and all the lights in the car goes weaker and stronger with the RPM. However, at the sea level, the idle RPM swinging is much less severe and sometimes almost not noticeable. In addition, when I am parking, I can notice a little black smoke emissions from the exhausts when I hit the gas pedal almost all the way through. I attached a video showing this behavior last night after coming back home from a 20 minutes drive. View My Video
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Old 11-29-2012, 08:55 AM
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Monsignor Monsignor is offline
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Location: Pineapple Under the Sea
 
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Mein Auto: M50 Big Body
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However, through out the day, my idle RPM is never stable and keeps swinging between 0.6 and 1.2 approximately, and all the lights in the car goes weaker and stronger with the RPM. However, at the sea level, the idle RPM swinging is much less severe and sometimes almost not noticeable. In addition, when I am parking, I can notice a little black smoke emissions from the exhausts when I hit the gas pedal almost all the way through.
Check the air filter and MAF. Make sure it is clean and good, and throw a little carb cleaner on the MAF. If that doesnt help, then take a look at the ICV, although i'm not entirely sure how that would affect the altitude difference...
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