New CCV and NOW it decides to make noise???

Originally Posted by 95 E34

As a pollution control system, many cars for a very long time have had recirc systems of valve cover air to separate oil vapors from it, to lessen the impact of those vapors entering the engine and being burnt and sent out the exhaust system.
Burnt oil is horribly bad for the environment.

When this recirc/separation system fails, it fails to remove the oil and oil vapors from crankcase atmosphere and subsequently from being burnt.

Or worse a plugged up system will blow a rear main seal , famous for old Volvos circa 80's to late 90's

Sent from my Desire HD using Bimmer App

Originally Posted by supertech777

Or worse a plugged up system will blow a rear main seal , famous for old Volvos circa 80's to late 90's

Sent from my Desire HD using Bimmer App

just replaced the cam seals on my sisters 1.9T S40 over the summer due to a failed PCV... it can cause serious issues

Originally Posted by 95 E34

just replaced the cam seals on my sisters 1.9T S40 over the summer due to a failed PCV... it can cause serious issues

I would i were your sister and you were my brother.

I guess I'll know for sure this Saturday.

To clarify something though, the fuel line that I used instead of a vacuum line was larger, thicker, and more firm (get your mind out of the gutter ). However, I am not sure how this would have collapsed if it was loose on the regulator and actually not getting enough vacuum.
The smoke/leak test proved this. The hose was blowing smoke out during testing because the ID of the new hose was too big.

Also, I do not think it anything more serious, because the car is actually fast as He## when I stomp on the throttle. I just blows smoke. Gas mileage is actually better than when I bought the car too after all the other work that I did.

KEEP YOUR FINGERS CROSSED FOR ME !!!

Originally Posted by 95 E34

As a pollution control system, many cars for a very long time have had recirc systems of valve cover air to separate oil vapors from it, to lessen the impact of those vapors entering the engine and being burnt and sent out the exhaust system.
Burnt oil is horribly bad for the environment.

When this recirc/separation system fails, it fails to remove the oil and oil vapors from crankcase atmosphere and subsequently from being burnt.

OP, nothing that you've suggested so far seems to fit you losing that much oil so quickly.

However, the padre's post is instructive. Please track that instead. Please check your valve cover's vacuum fitting. It should be connected to both your ccv/dipstick pipe, and your throttle body area, via two pipes. Not sure where it is on the m60 engine. If this is screwed, it does not scavenge out your engine's oil fumes well enough and it all goes out the tailpipe.

And double check everything that you are doing when you do it. Your eyes are your best tools here.


rgds,
Roberto

Update !!!
Replaced defective CCV and replaced throttle body gasket on 11/17/2012
(sorry for the delay in the follow-up)
The car definitely idles significantly better and accelerates even smoother than before.
It was really puffing oil smoke out after sitting when I started it up and idling very roughly. It was also really blowing oil smoke when I hit the throttle too after it was warmed up.
Even though the idle is fixed, it still puffs oil smoke after sitting overnight. It is a lot better, but it is still doing it. It also will still once in a while do it on hard acceleration. Not all the time now, but once in a while. I tried to soak up all the oil the best I could from the manifold when I did the CCV and throttle body gasket. Is it normal to take over a week to clear up?
If I am at a long light, you can faintly feel the idle stumble, but not nearly as bad as before.
At start up now, even with the slight smoke, it idles very smoothly.
I changed the spark plugs this weekend (11/24/2012) and they actually were not as bad as I thought they would be by burning oil. The ones closest to the CCV were the worst, but not covered in oil like I thought they would be. Any thoughts?

THANKS in advance !!!

Well its fairly simple about the oil. Just check your oil levels daily in the morning. If you are not losing oil, then you are using the oil that was left in the intake from all the previous issues.

Secondly, please make sure that you're not using engine oil that is too thin for your car. You would burn too much that way as well. 5w40 or 5w50 should work fine. If you're living in an especially cold area, you might have to go down to 0w40/50. Going to 30 weight oil might not be the best move if your piston rings are too worn.

What did your mechanics say about the latent smoke issues that you have mentioned ?

rgds,
Roberto

Hi meb1970

Are you saying the first ccv plate was faulty, and you have now replaced it with a second one? Did the whistle/howl go away with the new one?

The reason I ask is, I just installed a new (ccv, pvc, intake manifold plate) on an m60 today. Along with all the mainfold gaskets and some other repairs. Now it whistles/howls at idle. When I pull the dipstick, the whistle stops. Other posts I've read
indicate this is due to faulty (ccv, pvc, intake manifold plate), but I just put a new one on! Perhaps I have a faulty one too.

Thanks!
AA

I got some bad news for you.....yours is bad too.
I never had the howling before, just burning oil a start up really bad and no vacuum at the oil filler cap. I bought an aftermarket CCV from BavAuto thinking they sell good and quality parts. It failed within 2 days. It starting howling like crazy and I was actually getting positive pressure at the oil filler cap.
I bought a genuine BMW CCV (for about 30.00 more than the aftermarket) and it has been fine for almost 2 weeks. Sometimes you do get what you pay for.
On a positive note, doing it again should be faster.

As for it going away when you pull the dipstick, that is because yours failed differently. You are pulling too much vacuum and it is being released when you pull the dipstick.
See the threads regarding aftermarket CCV installation issues and how to test.

Thanks for your reply!

You're right! After market ccv plates...stay away!

Swapped back to the original, and no whislte! But the aftermarket ccv plate created so much vacuum, it took out the brand new lower pan gasket. Leaked almost a quart overnight. Replaced gasket, and it's running good.

Thanks!
AA

How is that even possible?

I answered your question regarding the whistling CCV and less than two hours later you replaced it with the original AND put in a lower pan gasket??

Maybe I am missing something. You stated you did this work yesterday and discovered the whistling. Then you state you let it sit overnight and noticed the leaking lower pan gasket. Yet there was only a 2 hour window between my answer and your fix?

That's how we roll here on the west coast! Ask questions and listen later.

I think I had the work done before you replied. Your post really convinced me that my ccv was faulty. Which is a tough to accept when one installs a new part. So I pulled the original ccv apart and inpected the diaphram, and found it to be ok. Replaced the new one with the original, and no more whistle. Picked up a new gasket at the dealer. It's easy to replace the lower pan gasket.

AA

My M20 Eta makes a howling whistle upon cold start up, its not constant, maybe for a second or two. It's a little above 30F here in the morning. Its only started it since its been cold. I dont notice any oil smoke in the exhaust. Could the old eta motor have the same issue as your 8 year newer V8?