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5 Series DIY
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  #1  
Old 11-23-2012, 11:13 PM
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kskane kskane is offline
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Mein Auto: '04 525i M54 with 6HP19Z
Smile Oil Filter Housing Gasket - Replacement (M54)

Refer to the PDF and if anyone has any problem with the file, let me know and I will post it again. This DIY is for 2004 525i with M54 engine.
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File Type: pdf DIY - Oil Filter Housing Gasket Replacement.pdf (1.66 MB, 4170 views)

Last edited by kskane; 11-28-2012 at 03:03 PM.
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  #2  
Old 11-26-2012, 06:33 PM
langstisthebb langstisthebb is offline
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Very helpful! I was able to follow these steps and successfully complete the oil filter housing gasket replacement. Do you happen to have any instructions on replacing the heat exchange gasket? This is also leaking.
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  #3  
Old 11-28-2012, 03:10 PM
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kskane kskane is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by langstisthebb View Post
Very helpful! I was able to follow these steps and successfully complete the oil filter housing gasket replacement. Do you happen to have any instructions on replacing the heat exchange gasket? This is also leaking.
I'm afraid I don't, as I don't even know where is the heat exchange gasket? Are you referring to the cylinder head cover gasket?
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  #4  
Old 04-30-2013, 02:13 PM
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aa240sx aa240sx is online now
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Thanks for the DIY. Planning to tackle this along with the VANOS. Is there an RTV Sealant used along with the gasket? Or is it simply,

1 remove old gasket (scrape)
2 clean area for new gasket
3 install new gasket
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  #5  
Old 05-14-2013, 06:18 PM
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kskane kskane is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aa240sx View Post
Thanks for the DIY. Planning to tackle this along with the VANOS. Is there an RTV Sealant used along with the gasket? Or is it simply,

1 remove old gasket (scrape)
2 clean area for new gasket
3 install new gasket
No RTV sealant is needed for OFHG.
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  #6  
Old 06-11-2013, 10:07 PM
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SmartSolution SmartSolution is offline
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Oil Filter Housing Gasket - Replacement (M54)

Excellent DIY. When I did mine on my previous e39, I found that in removing alternator, spraying a bit of wd40 at the contact points to the engine block makes it come out nice and easy with no jerking necessary.


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  #7  
Old 06-11-2013, 11:24 PM
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kskane kskane is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BM109R View Post
Excellent DIY. When I did mine on my previous e39, I found that in removing alternator, spraying a bit of wd40 at the contact points to the engine block makes it come out nice and easy with no jerking necessary.


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Thanks for letting us know, I will keep in mind for next time
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  #8  
Old 11-05-2013, 08:34 AM
mj888 mj888 is offline
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nice diy... thanks.
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  #9  
Old 06-07-2014, 03:02 AM
grimma grimma is offline
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One question , do you need to drain engine oil prior of this task?
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  #10  
Old 06-07-2014, 08:58 PM
BbradenMmillerW BbradenMmillerW is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grimma View Post
One question , do you need to drain engine oil prior of this task?

Slim Grim asks a good question...


Does anybody who has performed the OFHG R&R on m54 engine know if it's necessary to drain the oil? If so, is a typical drain from the oil pan plug legit enough?

Never done this job but am tomorrow. I have no idea how much oil is lost from removing, cleaning, etc... If the amount is negligible then that's that. But I could also see a drain & fill being possible.




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  #11  
Old 06-14-2014, 03:52 AM
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kskane kskane is offline
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Hey boys, sorry for the late response, but I don't think you will loose any oil with this DIY as the all the oil sit in the pan at the bottom of the engine. I could be wrong, so to be on safe side, better drain the oil anyway. If you don't want to spend more and think the oil is good, use the old oil and topup with 1L if necessary.
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  #12  
Old 06-15-2014, 07:17 PM
jarhed1964 jarhed1964 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kskane View Post
Hey boys, sorry for the late response, but I don't think you will loose any oil with this DIY as the all the oil sit in the pan at the bottom of the engine. I could be wrong, so to be on safe side, better drain the oil anyway. If you don't want to spend more and think the oil is good, use the old oil and topup with 1L if necessary.
You are pretty much spot on. Just pulled mine off of my 2005 530i. It's almost exactly the same as my two E39's, except that there are three bolts on the bottom of the housing that are connected to the power steering pump, in addition to the normal six bolts that you may be familiar with in an M52 or M52tu from an E39. Two up front and easy to reach, and one difficult one on the back rear. The pump literally mounts to the bottom of the housing. No oil lost other than the mess spilled all over the place when I pulled the housing out. Just open your oil filler cap so the oil will drain down from the filter housing. I'm doing an oil change anyway, so I drained the oil pan before I pulled the housing.
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  #13  
Old 12-26-2014, 03:44 PM
mjbennett9 mjbennett9 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kskane View Post
Refer to the PDF and if anyone has any problem with the file, let me know and I will post it again. This DIY is for 2004 525i with M54 engine.
I was following it just fine until I removed the 6 bolts---then I was like, this is way too much coming off compared to your DIY. Maybe I missed it, but with mine, removing those 6 bolts (all diff length), the power steering pump/assembly also comes loose/off (attached to OFH)?

I'm searching now, but man, not a good day to hit a snag. Also replacing CCV and bunch other stuff which I'm familiar with, but first time doing OFH. sigh.
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  #14  
Old 12-26-2014, 03:47 PM
mjbennett9 mjbennett9 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jarhed1964 View Post
You are pretty much spot on. Just pulled mine off of my 2005 530i. It's almost exactly the same as my two E39's, except that there are three bolts on the bottom of the housing that are connected to the power steering pump, in addition to the normal six bolts that you may be familiar with in an M52 or M52tu from an E39. Two up front and easy to reach, and one difficult one on the back rear. The pump literally mounts to the bottom of the housing. No oil lost other than the mess spilled all over the place when I pulled the housing out. Just open your oil filler cap so the oil will drain down from the filter housing. I'm doing an oil change anyway, so I drained the oil pan before I pulled the housing.
Jarhed1964. Are you saying I have to remove 3 more bolts to separate the OFH from the power steering pump? If so, i would think a support is needed to keep pump and all the hoses from bending/falling?

UPDATE: I figured it out. I found another DIY that did mention the two PS bolts. :-) Man, OFH and CCV are a bear. But it was easier doing CCV with OFH. However, I've done CCV without doing the OFH. Having done both, yah, it's easier, but I'd still do the CCV alone if I had to do again (assuming OFH was ok).

Last edited by mjbennett9; 01-12-2015 at 03:27 PM.
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  #15  
Old 01-12-2015, 09:57 AM
fastforaslowguy fastforaslowguy is offline
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My repair shop told me I needed to replace the bolts when doing the gasket swap - apparently the aluminum bolts they use are single-use and can snap off when re-torqued. Anyone else hear this? Sourcing those bolts is a PITA so far.
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  #16  
Old 01-12-2015, 09:58 AM
mjbennett9 mjbennett9 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastforaslowguy View Post
My repair shop told me I needed to replace the bolts when doing the gasket swap - apparently the aluminum bolts they use are single-use and can snap off when re-torqued. Anyone else hear this? Sourcing those bolts is a PITA so far.
Had no issue re-using mine. Over a week and no leaking.
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  #17  
Old 01-12-2015, 12:17 PM
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SmartSolution SmartSolution is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjbennett9 View Post
Had no issue re-using mine. Over a week and no leaking.
+1
I think replacing the bolts may only apply to the earlier N52 engines. IIRC all bolts that are one time use are marked blue. On the M54 its ok to re-use the same bolts. I re-used on my previous E39 with no issues. My 04 just started leaking so I will be making the repair soon.

Last edited by SmartSolution; 01-12-2015 at 12:19 PM.
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  #18  
Old 02-24-2015, 03:37 PM
Bluehorse Bluehorse is offline
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Appreciate your input re the following two questions:

1. Why do you need to jack up the car? Throughout the write up, it does not appear that you have to get beneath the car?

2. In my Bentley repair manual for M54 engine, the alternator is removed first, and only then the power steering pump is to be removed from the oil filter housing. This post however states to remove the power steering pump first? Would appreciate a picture of the power steering pump itself before and after the removal.

THANKS!
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  #19  
Old 02-26-2015, 04:00 AM
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kskane kskane is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluehorse View Post
Appreciate your input re the following two questions:

1. Why do you need to jack up the car? Throughout the write up, it does not appear that you have to get beneath the car?

2. In my Bentley repair manual for M54 engine, the alternator is removed first, and only then the power steering pump is to be removed from the oil filter housing. This post however states to remove the power steering pump first? Would appreciate a picture of the power steering pump itself before and after the removal.

THANKS!
Hi there Bluehorse, I just happen to read this post and saw your questions. Here are the answers;
1. In order to get engine belt and AC belt, you need access to the car from below. Also, to get the power steering pump, you need the access from below. And step 1 and 2 of the write clearly shows to jack the car up.

2. On my car, when I did this DIY and wrote the guide, I had to remove the power steering pump which logically makes sense because you are not disconnecting any hoses, you are leaving the power steering pump as is. Since the power steering pump is bolted at the bottom of the alternator, you cannot remove the alternator without removing the power steering first.

Lastly, bentley books are good, but I have found that they have wrong information on them from time to time. Because most of the sections are copied from the previous model into the successor and only the updated new parts are correct. If you find this horse , then give it a go and see if you can remove the alternator without remove the power steering pump. If you get stuck, then follow my steps (provided you have the same car)
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  #20  
Old 02-27-2015, 12:08 PM
Bluehorse Bluehorse is offline
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I have never removed the AC belt before. Do you unscrew to loosen the tensioner, or just turn it with a wrench and hold against its tension while using the other hand to remove the belt? Do you just release the wrench and the tensioner will spring back in place?

How do you find out the tightening torque of various bolts? Google it?

Plan to do it this weekend!
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  #21  
Old 02-27-2015, 10:05 PM
Bluehorse Bluehorse is offline
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Hello, guys,

In urgent need for help. I started working on the car tonight and I am to remove the Accessory belt as next step.

1. Realized I don't have torx socket for the Accessory belt tensioner. Anybody knows its size? Is it metric? First photo shows the belt, tensioner and various pulleys, and second picture is the tensioner itself. I tried using a 6mm Hex bit and stripped the star shaped torx hole a bit (scared)



2. To remove the power steering pump, my Bentley manual asks to remove the power steering pulley as well as the alternator idler pulley, then remove the two bolts (of different lengths) behind the power steering pulley. Are these all necessary? I am to re-study the DIY instructions by the OP, but appreciate your quick input tonight!

3. On the bracket at the back of the power steering pump (3rd photo), it has one large bolt on the far back end of the bracket(away and higher from the pump) and two screws (probably torx, but I can't see directly to visually confirm) on the other end (closer to the pump). Do I remove the two screws or the single large bolt to free the pump? I assume I don't need remove all of these 3? What other bolts/screws I need to remove to free the power steering pump?


4. By the way, not sure if I broke it when lifting the cooling fan cowl, but the hose connector shown in the 4th photo leaks coolant when I wiggle it from beneath the car. Is this leak from wiggle when cold normal (i.e. leak will disappear when the coolant system is presurrized)? If needs fix, what part(s) need to be replaced - the connector itself, is there a gasket inside there, or the entire hose (made a few segments connected and sealed by metal bands? I will do some research soon, but your input will save time so I may fix all this weekend.


Thanks!
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  #22  
Old 02-27-2015, 10:07 PM
Bluehorse Bluehorse is offline
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Sorry, pictures did not seem to have uploaded correctly. Here is the link to the album. Hope you can see them now (they are in reverse sequence of the questions asked above):

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/alb...?albumid=12571
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  #23  
Old 02-28-2015, 08:39 PM
Bluehorse Bluehorse is offline
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Well, I figured it out and did the job today. Took about 6 hours including research.

My sequence is different from the OP. I had to remove the alternator BEFORE removing the power steering pump (vs. the OP's sequence is to loosen Power Steering pump's bolts first in step #10, and followed by Step #11 and #12). Only after removing the alternator, the two front bolts and one back bolt securing the power steering pump become fairly easy to access.

My alternator is hold in place by two bolts only, not three stated in OP's step #11.

I don't have to remove the "power steering pulley as well as the alternator idler pulley" suggested by my Bentley manual.

I disconnect the connector where coolant leaked if I wiggle the return hose by hand. There appears to be no o-ring, and no visible damage to the connector, hose (including both ends). Not sure how I can find out whether I should replace the coolant return hose or the rigid plastic piece it connects toward the ground and then into the cooler. Appreciate your insight here.
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  #24  
Old 03-31-2015, 12:05 PM
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MUSCLEBOY MUSCLEBOY is offline
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Is DIY applicable to 2000 528I?

Can this DIY also be used for a 2000 BMW 528I? How would you know if you need to change out this OFHG? Where would leaks be present or what is the key here?

Last edited by MUSCLEBOY; 03-31-2015 at 12:09 PM. Reason: Better question
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  #25  
Old 03-31-2015, 02:23 PM
Bluehorse Bluehorse is offline
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How I know the leak - I am losing oil, and I know there is oil at the bottom undercover and oil pan. What is important is that I can tell the bottom of the oil filter housing was wet. For 2004 E60, it is far more likely that the oil filter housing gasket is leaking than the oil plan gasket (which is said to made of metal reinforced rubber).

And lastly, the indy shop told me so ;-)

The job I did stopped the leak. However, I think I still have some lead elsewhere. Trying to figuer out if it is oil pan gasket, or valve cover.

By the way, the loose connection (when cold) at the coolant hose (when wiggled by hand) is no an issue. I have driven 300 miles probably, and no loss of coolant observed.
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