CEL NIGHTMARE HELP! p0491 code

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Makevelli are you saying you don't need new steering wheeling for sport mode?

Sent from my Motorola Electrify using Bimmer App

Yes that is correct. You just wonth be able to up shift in manual mode unless you change wiring on inside of your steering wheel which can be done. Get winkfp and the e65 daten files then we will talk.

Thank you, tried to PM you back but can't.

Just deleted some pms

really the air injection is to warm up the catalytic converters faster

california regulation requires secondary air injection for some cars

you dont need it but if you live in california and you dont fix that problem your cat will slowly get messed up and eventually you wont pass emmisions tests eighter ..

gotta love cali ;/

Hi roadfrog & other fellows,

I have a 2000 BMW 740i. I shorted the circuit and blew out the fuse(s) of the secondary air pump when I replaced the oil cover gaskets (the positive terminal touched the body ground). Now, the car sends out the P0491 and P0492 error codes.
I remember to read that the fuse is somewhere in the passenger seat area. Please someone confirms and gives me more exact location of the fuse. I could not locate the fuse in the fuse box. It supposed to be 50 AMP? I need to fix it to pass the emission.

Many thanks in advance.

BMW2qnj2le

Hello All It's been a while since I last posted but here and I have some good news with pictures, I have sovled my secondary air problelm, It took about a week but it was worth it. First I found some top end cleaner made by GM and was able to poor it in to the port on the pluged up side, then I made an air injector out of black iron from the local hardware store, after letting the cemicals sit for about a week I hooked my air compressor to my injector, started the car and turned on the air, my goal was to get the heat up and allow the cemicals to steam and thus open the ports up with air pressure. I am pleased to say that it worked after about and hour of running she popped and air was flowing freely. My bank 2 was plugged tight so no cemicals were dripping in to the cylinders. I think I have about 20 bucks in plumbing and the cemicals were 25 bucks and of course my time but I wont begin to estimate how much time I have spent on this. Check out the pictures and i will try to answer questions.

Tugman.

pictures

Originally Posted by tugman3461

Hello All It's been a while since I last posted but here and I have some good news with pictures, I have sovled my secondary air problelm, It took about a week but it was worth it. First I found some top end cleaner made by GM and was able to poor it in to the port on the pluged up side, then I made an air injector out of black iron from the local hardware store, after letting the cemicals sit for about a week I hooked my air compressor to my injector, started the car and turned on the air, my goal was to get the heat up and allow the cemicals to steam and thus open the ports up with air pressure. I am pleased to say that it worked after about and hour of running she popped and air was flowing freely. My bank 2 was plugged tight so no cemicals were dripping in to the cylinders. I think I have about 20 bucks in plumbing and the cemicals were 25 bucks and of course my time but I wont begin to estimate how much time I have spent on this. Check out the pictures and i will try to answer questions.

Tugman.

CONGRATS on your success

Originally Posted by tugman3461

Hello All It's been a while since I last posted but here and I have some good news with pictures, I have sovled my secondary air problelm, It took about a week but it was worth it. First I found some top end cleaner made by GM and was able to poor it in to the port on the pluged up side, then I made an air injector out of black iron from the local hardware store, after letting the cemicals sit for about a week I hooked my air compressor to my injector, started the car and turned on the air, my goal was to get the heat up and allow the cemicals to steam and thus open the ports up with air pressure. I am pleased to say that it worked after about and hour of running she popped and air was flowing freely. My bank 2 was plugged tight so no cemicals were dripping in to the cylinders. I think I have about 20 bucks in plumbing and the cemicals were 25 bucks and of course my time but I wont begin to estimate how much time I have spent on this. Check out the pictures and i will try to answer questions.

Tugman.

Thanks for the post tugman, you da man!!

I have an E60 N62 (2005 545i) that has some restricted air flow on the bank 1 exhaust pipe (passenger side) with periodic P0491 error codes showing up. I will look to see if there is the same room to work behind the engine, 5 vs 7? I will take off that big black cabin filter plastic housing?

I would love to be able to do this while not removing the intake (PIA). I do not have fully clogged ports yet. But I know it's coming...since I can def feel at diff at the tail pipes when the engine is revved up.

A few questions If I may please....
1. Why the AC Delco vs maybe Seafoam or Liqui Moly Jectron cleaner?
2. How much did you pour in? Time frame? Was the engine heated up?
3. I like your tool you used much better than other pics posted, doubt I need it right?
4. Wouldn't it be easier for ME to just jack up the car in the front and pour the cleaner in the y-pipe, thus going into both banks to clean the SA ports simultaneously?

Thanks,
Steve

This may have been posted previously (too lazy to read through 5 pages of posts), but All German Auto (AGA) manufacturers, packages, and sells a kit to clean the secondary air ports on the N62 engine. The kit is not on AGA's website yet, but they have the kits for sale for $250.

Originally Posted by Davidf

This may have been posted previously (too lazy to read through 5 pages of posts), but All German Auto (AGA) manufacturers, packages, and sells a kit to clean the secondary air ports on the N62 engine. The kit is not on AGA's website yet, but they have the kits for sale for $250.

$250 bucks, wow gotta love the ROI. The tool parts/chemicals should cost me no more than $30. Is their tool as good as the one Tugman built out of pipe?

Thanks,
Steve

"good" is a relative term. The kit is different. AGA's kit does not use compressed air, but rather brushes that are drill motor operated and feed into the port/passage via a custom made tube that fits cleanly into the end of the cylinder head. Definitely (seemingly) quality made custom pieces ready to go.

Having to make the custom base that I saw in the (Tugman's) photos above will not be easy or in the capabilities of many DIY'ers. Two different approaches hopefully ending in the same result.

Originally Posted by Davidf

"good" is a relative term. The kit is different. AGA's kit does not use compressed air, but rather brushes that are drill motor operated and feed into the port/passage via a custom made tube that fits cleanly into the end of the cylinder head. Definitely (seemingly) quality made custom pieces ready to go.

Having to make the custom base that I saw in the (Tugman's) photos above will not be easy or in the capabilities of many DIY'ers. Two different approaches hopefully ending in the same result.

Okay, thanks bro!
I spoke to AGA, a women named Terry emailed me the pics for the kit and a . We are performing this procedure in the next week. I may just buy the kit and build the tool as well. A cheap fix at $250ish vs the $4K+.

Here is a link to the You Tube instruction video that is currently online:

I think AGA should give every forum member a huge discount on the kit since their solution obviously uses ideas and methods that came directly from posts on this forum! If they don't I'd be really disappointed.

In the video, he even uses the Chemtool B12 I suggested over a year ago! He essentially did what Fratan and i described in a series of posts, just that AGA had the means to make it a little more elegant with the kit. Cost me only 20 bucks in supplies not $250!
AGA makes some nice quality stuff that helps us all, just kinda pricey.

Hi there
Time to answer some questions;

In all my research I found that the AC Delco top engine clean was the best for carbon cleaning. As an aircraft tech I have been subject to many cleaning process with many different chemicals most of which are not available to the public and being these are aluminum heads it creates another problem because most chemicals are corrosive to aluminum. With that in mind I know from my racing days that steam is one of the best carbon removers going. So how do I get steam into the ports? When the ports are plugged solid like mine where there is an opportunity to allow the chemicals' to sit and soak which I did for about a week while I made the air injector. I want to say that I have been putting this plan together for some time so it's not a fly by night idea. Fortunately heat is our friend here so with everything hooked up I started the engine and let it get to operating temp the heads should be at 210 deg which I believe is what the thermostat keeps the engine at. Which is over boiling point of water, thus steam, add the air pressure and you have in essence a steam cleaner. One of the pluses of the AC top clean is that it has a thick consistency and clings to surfaces.

How much to use the bottle was full when I started and it's half full now so that's how much I used, whatever it takes I guess is the answer.

My tool was simple to make I think the hardest part would be the flange, that is a ½ inch thick cold rolled steel bar I got at Home depot I cut to size drilled the holes to match a valve that I had replaced, pipe threaded to 3/8 pipe, ball valve from Home depot pressure gauge is optional, I planned on using a steam generator if this didn't work so that's why it's so heavy.

As far as jacking goes, it wouldn't help the ports are in the back so you would be tilting in the wrong direction.

On a side note my air compressor is set for 150 psi. Most are set to 125 I don't think it would make a difference.

AGA has a tool that requires removal of the short tube on the back of the head. I hope you have a lot of patients, these are very tight quarters and getting that tube back in place is going to be fun. I'm not knocking AGA I'm just trying to point out some of the things that I have run into during my trial and error, I am used to tight quarters and invested a lot of money on the snap-on truck to help me out in tight quarters, if you have ever worked on an airplane you know what I am talking about.

That's all for now hope it helps good luck.

Mark

More on jacking, Warning Will Robinson Warning!!
do not put the chemicals in the y tube, the diverter valves have a rubber diaphram to make them work, the chemicals will destroy the diaphram.

This is the same fix that RobZ 745 posted http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...=543798&page=3 here titled N62 question? We have a picture of the air compressor tool used to blow out the SAS. This should help.

Hi,
I'm trying to diagnose a P0492 code I've been getting more regularly lately.
On my car it is consistently P0492 and so far 491 has not shown.

My thoughts are
- Secondary air pump --> not at fault, otherwise both sides would show
- hoses up to the pressure valves --> most likely not at fault, otherwise both sides would show
+ pressure valves --> possible cause that one diaphragm is failing
+ carbon build up --> possible cause maybe not fully clogged
+ Post cat O2 sensor --> possible cause maybe o2 sensor is failing

Any further thoughts on how one could determine the root cause?

Originally Posted by flash_n

Hi,
I'm trying to diagnose a P0492 code I've been getting more regularly lately.
On my car it is consistently P0492 and so far 491 has not shown.

My thoughts are
- Secondary air pump --> not at fault, otherwise both sides would show
- hoses up to the pressure valves --> most likely not at fault, otherwise both sides would show
+ pressure valves --> possible cause that one diaphragm is failing
+ carbon build up --> possible cause maybe not fully clogged
+ Post cat O2 sensor --> possible cause maybe o2 sensor is failing

Any further thoughts on how one could determine the root cause?

Take off that sides check valve and see if its stuck closed or open, then take off the other side and do the same, and while the valves are off pour some berrymans b12 chemtool in there and run a pipe cleaner wire brush in there and blow some compressed air through it afterwards; if the valves are stuck id replace them. If your hands can reach you might not even have to remove the intake manifold.
Most people who have done this diligently have got rid if these codes; also AGA has been doing this and now sells a kit to diy it without removing heads for carbon cleaning.

Hey folks,
He's a brief update on the professional cleaning (kit is $249) that was performed on my N62 engine by the pros at AGA:

• Car was finished mid-last week.
• New tool (worked perfectly) was used to clean bank 1 (P0491).
• Took them about 5 hours all in.
• Chemtool and Liqui Moly Jectron was used. http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/p...cument&land=US
• I was the 9th car this was performed on and one of the most clogged.
• all codes reset have not come back and monitors are okay now!

I also pored in some Liqui Moly Ceratec (killer stuff) and the leaking value stem seals (white smoke when hot) has mostly gone away at idle.
Any questions, feel free....

Steve

Two any one in the New England area if you would like help with plugged up ports pm. Me and i will be glade to help i will share my tools, knowlage and my shop.

have a nice day

This stuff is flying off the shelves in the USA I am told.

Steve