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E34 (1989 - 1995)

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  #151  
Old 03-22-2011, 03:09 PM
ricks5series ricks5series is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertobaggio20 View Post
There seems to be a black plastic cable right under the brake bosster-intake manifold fitting, which runs over the brake fluid container. What is it?
Cruise Control cable.
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  #152  
Old 03-22-2011, 06:16 PM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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If you have not already done so, I recommend you check the throttle position sensor with an ohm meter per the Bentley manual

Steve
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Most problems are usually something simple !

Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #153  
Old 03-22-2011, 07:35 PM
ricks5series ricks5series is offline
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Latest update:
On Roberto's suggestion I took the car out for its 1st drive. It is definitely stuck in limp mode, (3rd) but I got it up to about 35mph (residential area) and it drove very strong. No unusual noises, in fact the engine sounded great, nice and quiet. At this speed I didn't notice any surging.
I also still have a bit (I hope) of old coolant blowing out of the pipe from time to time. Been told it will take more driving to clean the old crap out of the exhaust system.

Back at home, the engine purred and idled very nicely, a constant 700rpm with no fluctuating.
It's only when I increase the throttle that it starts to surge up and down.
Still have the trans-program light on so I still have to check in to that problem.

Also been told the TPS rarely goes bad and if it wasn't surging while going 35+ it must be working. I'll check the ohm at 1/8 as Steve suggested though. Maybe at that position it's not reading correctly.

This video shows me revving it to around 3500 - 4000 to see if any more plumes come out of the tailpipe. Seems to have diminished substantially.

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  #154  
Old 03-23-2011, 04:26 AM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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That engine sounds damn good mate.
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  #155  
Old 03-24-2011, 09:23 AM
ricks5series ricks5series is offline
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Originally Posted by robertobaggio20 View Post
That engine sounds damn good mate.
It does and idles perfect. Still having the rpm surge when increasing to 1000 or above.

As for the trans program message, I thought I found the problem when I opened the MAF socket and found the connections incrusted with residue.
Cleaned it up, reconnected it and started it up BUT till have the the trans program message.

I may have to drive it to my local BMW specialist and see if they can pull codes from the trrans. ecm.

In the meantime, the saga continues.
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  #156  
Old 03-28-2011, 05:38 PM
ricks5series ricks5series is offline
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I've narrowed the surging to the TPS connection because when I disconnect the TPS, the car still idles smoothly and does not surge up & down when I increase the rpm's above 1000.

I not attaining 5v from from TPS harness when I turn the ignition on. When I pull back the rubber boot at the TPS connector to determine the color coded wires, they are different colors at the sockets of the DME connector from that of the TPS connector.

My questions are;

Do the color coded wires from the TPS harness connector directly run to the DME connector?
Wire colors are red/wht stripe, white/yellow stripe & white/green stripe

Or do I ignore this and simply refer tp pins 44, 59, & 73 which the manual says are the TPS pins?

Hope this makes sense.
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  #157  
Old 03-29-2011, 02:29 PM
ricks5series ricks5series is offline
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PROBLEM SOLVED!
As much as I would like to omit this piece of information, turns out I had the connectors for the ICV & TPS reversed. Explains why I wasn't attaining the 5v current.
So, not all of the connectors are idiot proofed, lol. Some are interchangeable.

Everything is running fine, except, I'm getting code 1224 (air intake sensor) but will let the car run a few days and see if it clears.

So in conclusion, perfect idling, no surging, no transprogam message.....
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  #158  
Old 03-29-2011, 03:57 PM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ricks5series View Post
PROBLEM SOLVED!
As much as I would like to omit this piece of information, turns out I had the connectors for the ICV & TPS reversed. Explains why I wasn't attaining the 5v current.
So, not all of the connectors are idiot proofed, lol. Some are interchangeable.

Everything is running fine, except, I'm getting code 1224 (air intake sensor) but will let the car run a few days and see if it clears.

So in conclusion, perfect idling, no surging, no transprogam message.....
WOOO HOOOO

Hey, we all make mistakes. Glad you went back and figured it out and shared your experience with us. I would suggest that you delete the code, drive the car and see if it re-appears. Then you may have to replace the MAF, but I would hope not if it was not giving a problem before you embarked on your journey.



The trans program error just didn't make sense to me. Glad it was simple.

Steve
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Most problems are usually something simple !

Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #159  
Old 03-29-2011, 06:17 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Your such an idiot you know that? Hey somebody had to say it ! lolololololol

Clear the codes on your car. That may take care of the air intake sensor thing.

If it doesn't, the sensor is probably damaged. Test it and its connector using Bentley, then purchase a new one. Its only around $20 if i remember correctly and is easy to install.

Come back after your test drive, write us a long LONGGG post about your entire experience, put it up here, and then goto your thread's subject header and ammend it to include the work 'concluded', 'climaxed', 'hooah' etc to signify the end of the project. You do this by going to your very first post, clicking on edit, then clicking on advanced. The subject header will reappear and become editable.

Cheers mate. I'm glad it was something very simple at the end of the day.
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  #160  
Old 03-29-2011, 07:21 PM
ricks5series ricks5series is offline
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Originally Posted by robertobaggio20 View Post
Your such an idiot you know that? Hey somebody had to say it ! lolololololol

Clear the codes on your car. That may take care of the air intake sensor thing.

If it doesn't, the sensor is probably damaged. Test it and its connector using Bentley, then purchase a new one. Its only around $20 if i remember correctly and is easy to install.

Come back after your test drive, write us a long LONGGG post about your entire experience, put it up here, and then goto your thread's subject header and ammend it to include the work 'concluded', 'climaxed', 'hooah' etc to signify the end of the project. You do this by going to your very first post, clicking on edit, then clicking on advanced. The subject header will reappear and become editable.

Cheers mate. I'm glad it was something very simple at the end of the day.
Well my friend, like I said, I could have omitted that mistake, lol. I simply entered it so that anyone who views this thread learns from it as I did and double checks the "colors of the wires". I tried in vain to find the color code but couldn't.
Anyway, life is a learning experince.

I'm in the process of giving her a total detail. She's gonna look fabulous when I'm done!!!!!
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  #161  
Old 03-29-2011, 07:59 PM
ricks5series ricks5series is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR_LVR View Post
WOOO HOOOO

Hey, we all make mistakes. Glad you went back and figured it out and shared your experience with us. I would suggest that you delete the code, drive the car and see if it re-appears. Then you may have to replace the MAF, but I would hope not if it was not giving a problem before you embarked on your journey.



The trans program error just didn't make sense to me. Glad it was simple.

Steve
Yeah Steve,
That transprogram message had me baffled as well.
For the record, a malfunctioning MAF will throw the transmission into "limp" mode and I know that was working so that led me back to the ICV & TPS connections.

Last edited by ricks5series; 03-30-2011 at 10:09 AM.
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  #162  
Old 03-29-2011, 08:14 PM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ricks5series View Post
Yeah Steve,
That transprogram message had me baffled as well.
For the record, a malfunctioning ICV will throw the transmission into "limp" mode.
Don't know if it was a "malfunctioning" ICV that caused the limp mode. It was likely that you had the ICV and TPS plugs reversed thereby confusing the computer. Just a thought.

Steve

PS: Let us know how it goes after you reset your codes and drive for a while (regarding the air intake sensor - not the MAF - duh on me).
__________________
Most problems are usually something simple !

Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #163  
Old 03-29-2011, 08:17 PM
ricks5series ricks5series is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR_LVR View Post
Don't know if it was a "malfunctioning" ICV that caused the limp mode. It was likely that you had the ICV and TPS plugs reversed thereby confusing the computer. Just a thought.

Steve

PS: Let us know how it goes after you reset your codes and drive for a while (regarding the air intake sensor - not the MAF - duh on me).
Yes, you are correct.
Anyway, I'll post pics of the finale after she's detailed.

Last edited by ricks5series; 03-30-2011 at 10:07 AM. Reason: correction
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  #164  
Old 03-30-2011, 04:14 AM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ricks5series View Post
Yes, you are right but the Bentley says it will display that code if it malfunctions.
Anyway, I'll post pics of the finale after she's detailed.
Hey Rick. Can you please advise which page in Bentley where you read that? I'd like to look at it too. We get a lot of trans program errors on here and I don't recall ever seeing this. It would be good to add to my sticky thread. Imagine how many E34's may have had the transmission replaced due to the trans program error and it could have been something as simple as a faulty ICV.

Steve
__________________
Most problems are usually something simple !

Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #165  
Old 03-30-2011, 10:06 AM
ricks5series ricks5series is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR_LVR View Post
Hey Rick. Can you please advise which page in Bentley where you read that? I'd like to look at it too. We get a lot of trans program errors on here and I don't recall ever seeing this. It would be good to add to my sticky thread. Imagine how many E34's may have had the transmission replaced due to the trans program error and it could have been something as simple as a faulty ICV.

Steve
I stand corrected Steve,
A faulty MAF will trigger the transprogram mode (Bentley pg 130-9), not a faulty ICV. Yes, the message was most likely due to the crisscrossed wiring.
Good catch sir.
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  #166  
Old 03-30-2011, 10:34 AM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ricks5series View Post
I stand corrected Steve,
A faulty MAF will trigger the transprogram mode (Bentley pg 130-9), not a faulty ICV. Yes, the message was most likely due to the crisscrossed wiring.
Good catch sir.
Thanks. Still good information though.

Steve
__________________
Most problems are usually something simple !

Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #167  
Old 12-04-2012, 09:22 PM
wooferbmw wooferbmw is offline
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Hi all! This is an old post and was sent here and have some suggestions. One, If you know a mercury marine mechanic or can buy from a mercruiser or mercury service center, ask for a can of power tune. You do not have to remove injectors or intake manifold! Simply remove the air induction before the tb and after mass air. Turn the engine one and spray until engine almost shuts off, let the rpms come back and do it again. Turn the car off after rpms come back. Wait 30 minutes and grab lunch. Come back and you will not have carbon in your engine. It's the best you can buy if u know someone. It's not cheap but worth every cent. It's about 40$ for a standard spray can. Mercury marine has a patent on this stuff and it will work on any engine 4 or 2 stroke, efi safe, carb safe, o2 safe...etc.
Also, If you decide to take injectors out, pb blaster a set of jumper wires and 12 volts. Once the injectors click and just start to spray, stop, soak the nozzles only in about an 1/8 of an inch. Like others have said, soak for a couple days. Alert: whatever you do don't get anything on the o-ring! Take them off before you start. Any fluid containing any kind of alcohol will deteriorate the o-rings. This is true with any rubber seal in a combustion engine! This is why marine/boat engines recommend non-alcohol fuel. It's hard to get, it's a little bit more but you won't have problems.
I currently reside in North Carolina and have found a few marinas that still use current octane but with no alcohol. If I could get to the coast every week I would never use the status-quo gasoline! No matter what anyone tells you, alcohols makes your engine run much cleaner but will shorten its lifetime.
I'll end with this: I've seen forty year old inboard pushrod engines that are carbureted and mefi1,2,3 and four that still meet original compression, vacuum and pressure specs. Due to good maintenance and non-alcoholic fuel.
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  #168  
Old 12-04-2012, 09:26 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Looks like you found him.
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  #169  
Old 12-04-2012, 09:45 PM
wooferbmw wooferbmw is offline
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M20 head

Thanks baggio! Yes I found him. I agree 100 percent on replace or tuning everything when you can get to it! So much easier. I've also learned something as simple as removing a battery instead of just removing the -terminal is easier and safer! On the m20 it's quicker to remove the batter to change plug 1&2(novice.). Expert, just get the plug loose, 3/8 hose and unthread. Installation the same(pro.) No battery removal or -terminal.
I've found a couple eBay heads but the are not true reman. Most are rebuilt, although good, true remaned are better than stock.
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  #170  
Old 12-04-2012, 10:05 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Please pm rick directly if you would like the contact he used. I am sure that he will help you.
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  #171  
Old 12-04-2012, 10:06 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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How are remanned heads better than stock and how are they better than rebuilt heads ?
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  #172  
Old 12-05-2012, 04:28 AM
wooferbmw wooferbmw is offline
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Here's how

When you buy a rebuilt engine, block, head, transmission you aren't maximizing potential. Anything that is rebuilt is exactly that, rebuilt! Lets say you have someone rebuild your engine? On the engine several parts still meet there tolerances, cleaned up and reused. On an engine that is remanufacture the only original parts are the block cast and head cast. The rest of the parts are brand new and meet or exceed manufacturers qualifications. You block and head get machined and the rest is new.
The only problem with something rebuilt is that the warranty is smaller if at all. On a true remanufactured engine the warranty is better because every single piece is new. Also, on a reman much of the aftermarket or oem, because of being new, are produced using current technology, makes them stronger and last longer.
If you buy a rebuilt motor and in the process you don't get new pistons but you do get new piston rings, these new rings will b worse than the old if the rebuilder did not cross hatch the cylinder bore (not boring, but cross hatching or honing.
On a reman, they hone, sleeve, or bore the block. Everything that goes in the block again is new and with much stronger parts.
The rebuild process is the same but not all parts are new. Hence the term rebuilt.
Sorry, not better than stock, but better than original.
Research this, it is 100% true or fact.
I am always skeptical of buying something rebuilt or having someone rebuild for me. If I choose to rebuild ill do it myself.
In the previous discussion we talked about starters being cleaned and getting new brushes and armatures. The only part of a reman starter is the case and it is better than stock/original.
I hope this helps?
Here's a good one. All NASCAR engines are sleeved so that the blocks can be reused or sold. When they use the sleeved block again, every single thing that goes on the block or engine is brand new.
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