S54 Swap

headers, cat delete, stock obd2 res, and vibrant blow through muffler if you want goodd sound, rasp is only good on v8's and up

Originally Posted by Mr Gusta

headers, cat delete, stock obd2 res, and vibrant blow through muffler if you want goodd sound, rasp is only good on v8's and up

I like this too much rasp is obnoxious as hell...and everything looks great man headers look awesome! Can't wait for the bottom end to be all set to go! About the Christmas gifts....at least your getting stuff you want looks awesome great progress!

Currently on my way back home from Florida from my visit to Randy Forbes. He did my bearing job, and took a few pictures, 94 of them! The bearings had been done before but we do not know when. Engine was reported to have 113k on the clock. Randy has shots of everything. I highly recommend his work. Enjoy the link to his shots of my engine.

http://www.spcarsplus.com/gallery3/i...4-bearing-swap

Awesomenessssss looking great! Whats the current state then blocks back home right? How long till she's dropped in! looks awesome!

Originally Posted by JayMac

Currently on my way back home from Florida from my visit to Randy Forbes. He did my bearing job, and took a few pictures, 94 of them! The bearings had been done before but we do not know when. Engine was reported to have 113k on the clock. Randy has shots of everything. I highly recommend his work. Enjoy the link to his shots of my engine.

http://www.spcarsplus.com/gallery3/i...4-bearing-swap

Those old bearings look good. I mean, they are evenly worn, and no scratches/grooves/hot spots on the journals. How much clearance are you running?

Yes i have the engine back at home. Dropped it off at Randy's house on Saturday and picked it up on Sunday.

Horn, in answer to your question i don't remember. Randy did give me the numbers but as with many other items I forgot. He start out with the recall kit, coat the bearings and bakes them right in his shop. I think he mentioned he is upwards of 50 of these jobs. He catalogs all of his work so he can provide a data base on bearing wear for these engines. Since I have limited info on the engine we basically start from here. Since the bearings by nature are sacrificial I was pleased with how they looked. You have no idea of how they were maintained nor what type of oil was used. I will be running something higher in zddp than what is out there for street cars. It will either be the AMO or the 50 weight racing oil. AS I understand the wear, you can get that type of pattern from winding out an engine before the oil is up to temp. All in all I was very pleased with the journals. Plan on starting to pull crap off the front end this weekend and see how far I get. Pics of course

Awesome! I absolutely love the fast progress in this thread.So looking forward to seeing this bad boy in the e36! Keep up the awesome work Jay!

Originally Posted by beamer claus

Awesome! I absolutely love the fast progress in this thread.So looking forward to seeing this bad boy in the e36! Keep up the awesome work Jay!

Dude your Username bothers me, change it asap.. kthxbye

Here's a hint
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=580670

Sent from my Nexus 4G using Bimmer App

I wanted Bimmer Claus...... Didn't know we could change it in all honesty thanks

No problem...

Now back to Jay's awesome thread....

Sent from my Nexus 4G using Bimmer App

Did not get much done last week. Plan for this weekend is to do a compression test on the old engine and remove all the crap in front of it. I located an engine hoist for rent for $50 so I have the means to lift it out. Also bought a puppy to replace the dog we had to put down.

But just to show I am a crazy old idiot, I did manage to change the thermostat on our other 328 without removing the fan. Took five hours but got it done. Not for the faint of heart but I could not get the fan off (yes I was turning it the right way) even after soaking it with PB Blaster overnight. It was the original thermostat so it did its time.

Looking forward to pulling off some parts on Sunday while mom goes to get this llittle rascal.

sorry to hear about the dog...that puppy is so ungodly cute it's not even funny. What kind of dog? You need not prove your craziness you've earned your standing in that area all ready

Samoyed

Okay just finished the compression test of the current engine. Pleasantly surprised. I have read the following info and do not know if it is true or not but if so I am even more please.
1. More aggressive cam will lead to lower numbers, I have M3 cams in here.
2. Minimum E36 should be 142-156? I got 190 to 200 across all 6 cylinders.
3. You want the numbers to be within 85% and there is a conversion chart for altitude on Pelican parts. I am right on the water so probably less than 100 ft.
Hope all this helps to sell this when the time comes.
Cylinders in order, 195, 190, 190, 195, 195, 200














Now back to pulling some crap apart

man how long will it take you to do the swap? I did mine in two weeks

Originally Posted by JayMac

Okay just finished the compression test of the current engine. Pleasantly surprised. I have read the following info and do not know if it is true or not but if so I am even more please.
1. More aggressive cam will lead to lower numbers, I have M3 cams in here.
2. Minimum E36 should be 142-156? I got 190 to 200 across all 6 cylinders.
3. You want the numbers to be within 85% and there is a conversion chart for altitude on Pelican parts. I am right on the water so probably less than 100 ft.
Hope all this helps to sell this when the time comes.
Cylinders in order, 195, 190, 190, 195, 195, 200














Now back to pulling some crap apart

Nominal should be atmospheric pressure x compression ratio which would be 14.7 psi x 10.5 = 154 psi. Higher readings are typically caused by carbon build up and/or unburned fuel injected into the cylinders. You've got consistent readings across all 6 and they're all higher than the nominal so you're good!
An aggressive cam depressing the readings is a myth. The compression gauge captures the peak pressure and the only way a cam could affect that was if the valves never closed.

Dc you lost me. Wouldn't a more aggressive cam create some overlap as a result leave the cylinder open longer? Either way no worries.

Haken, I work up to 6 days a week and sometimes just don't have the energy to get much done by time I get up. Since you have all the free time you could always do a Forum search for "Unsubscribe". Just doing the best I can.

he's going faster on the swap than i did on my porchez....





just sayin'....







df

Originally Posted by JayMac

Dc you lost me. Wouldn't a more aggressive cam create some overlap as a result leave the cylinder open longer?

The overlap when the engine is firing allows the escaping exhaust gases to help draw in additional air fuel charge. When you're doing a compression test the engine isn't firing and it's turning relatively slow. The cylinder still fills completely and the full volume for the compression stroke is still there so the overlap doesn't really have any noticeable affect on the compression reading.
I've done compression tests on engines with cams so aggressive the minimum idle speed was 1500 rpms and didn't see any difference from the basic atmospheric pressure x compression ratio value.

Thanks for the lesson. Interesting.

Got lots done ( for me) today. Drive shaft disconnected, engine mounts off. Fuel lines power steering all disconnected. I am having an issue with a harness that comes up from the area near the fuel regulator. There are 3 wire lines that go up under the manifold. I can't find where they disconnect. Any ideas.
In this photo they are dead center below the hose clamp. They are secured to the block and go up under the manifold. I got a little better look by dropping the car down and supporting the engine with a two by 10 placed on end. Have the hoist and it is supposed to stop raining tomorrow so I can push the car out of the garage and finally pull this thing.

just cut those wires...



iirc, they go to the knock sensors and coolant temp sensors??





df

One is the cam position sensor, one is for the knock sensors, and I don't remember there being a third under there but I was focused on the cam sensor when I was in there recently. Regardless, in your photo you show the connection point. The connectors from the main harness have a locking device that's the wire loop that runs across the top of the connector (see yellow arrows). Press inward towards the connector body and pull that connector away from the mating connector and it should be free from the motor. The sheet metal bracket that supports the connectors holds the connector side that goes to the sensors mounted to the engine.

Where you arrows are there are no connections. Those are the wires I am talking about. They come out of the cover by the fuel lines and run up under the manifold. From what I can see they look like they might disconnect behind where the pcv is behind the icv. If I have to I will pull the manifold. Was hoping it would be easier but for some reason it is not..

I'm going by your forum info that says the car is a '97 328 which is an M52B28 the same as my '96 328. This graphic shows the cam position sensor and ping sensors for both our cars, and there's definitely a connector for each if the wiring in you car is per factory. The connectors on these sensors slip into the sheet metal holder, and the connectors from the wiring harness disconnect from them.