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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 10-14-2012, 10:09 AM
FLE39 FLE39 is offline
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I run 35psi all around, COLD pressure. Yields even wear and good MPG. When I got my 530i the rear tires were wearing the center heavily. Due to the high placard pressure of like 41. So that confirmed my thoughts of 41 being too high for a unloaded average driving vehicle. I put 82k on the factory cheap tiger paw tires on my company work car. Pontiac G6. It called for 32psi, I ran 35 rotated every 10k at oil changes. At 82k I was just hitting the wear indicators. All 4 tires were wearing even and flat. I had/have same excellent results with 35psi on my Lincoln MKZ (sold), 335i and wife's C300. I manage to get about 80-110k out of a set of tires on any vehicle I look after.
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Last edited by FLE39; 10-14-2012 at 10:11 AM.
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  #27  
Old 10-19-2012, 12:13 PM
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doru doru is offline
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I think I know what the issue is, this being consistent with the date I changed my rear differential oil. Yes, the diff oil.

Check out this linky, and let me know what you guys think.
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  #28  
Old 10-19-2012, 12:52 PM
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540 M-Sport 540 M-Sport is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doru View Post
the tires are new (changed them this spring). Alignment was done as well around that time.

Should I try this:

No, you do not have a P code (I presume) so no reason to. Also, forget replacing your post cat O2 sensors. Waste of money.
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  #29  
Old 10-19-2012, 12:54 PM
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540 M-Sport 540 M-Sport is offline
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One thing that could cause loss in efficiency and not easily detected, might be intake valve deposits. You might try sucessive treatments with LubroMoly Ventil Sauber. But I am not very confident this is your problem.

It might be worth having someone with a more sophisticated engine diagnostic software program plug in your car and read the various sensor data.
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  #30  
Old 12-04-2012, 08:15 AM
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doru doru is offline
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I believe I know what's causing my high fuel consumption.

I think I have a lazy thermostat. It's not stuck open, I have no codes with GT1. But, I know, this car should heat up pretty quick, which it does not.
Now, with cooler ambient temps, I noticed it took forever for the needle to go to the 12 o'clock mark. I also noticed that the instant mpg goes down drastically until the needle starts to stabilize, then the instant mpg is what it should be.

For the last few days, i did the KTMP test after cold starting (ambient temps around -12C to -14C). So, here is what I noticed: the temp climbs nice and steady antil reaches the 55C to 60C mark. At this point, it takes forever to get to 94C. In distance: it takes about 300 to 400m (yards) to get to 55C, then another 4 Km or 5 Km to reach 92C to 94C. The needle stabilizes at 12 o'clock around 72C.

I think that while the GT1 does not show a failed thermostat, the bloody thing opens way to early at the 55C to 60C mark, instead of the 94C mark.

My commute is about 12 Km one way, so with colder ambient temps, it's no wonder that now my mpg is even worse. As I said, the GT1 didn't find a single issue with my car, which is strange the way the t-stat is acting up. I remeber having the needle at 12 o'clock very soon after starting the car stone cold, which is not the case now.

Anyone else experienced this? My t-stat is a dealer OEM changed October 2010.
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  #31  
Old 12-04-2012, 09:52 AM
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16valex 16valex is offline
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That sounds about right for Winter unless mine is lazy too..
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  #32  
Old 12-04-2012, 10:46 AM
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Jason5driver Jason5driver is offline
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Wow D...!
Glad you found the problem...!

I wish there was a way to show the ktmp read-out all the time on your dash...
Maybe a separate VDO gauge connected to the temp. sensor...?

Also check and make sure your Auxiliary Water Pump is also working, because that can also affect how fast the car warms-up, and allows the engine to get to the correct running temperature, because if it doesn't, (as you have already stated), your car's mileage will suck/ and will use more gas...

Another note...
Also check the CCV, because if it is not functioning properly, (evacuating fuel fumes at start-up), your car will burn a lot of gas, hence, provide poor mileage and poor performance...
Ask me how I know...
LOL!

Thanks!
Jason
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  #33  
Old 12-04-2012, 11:35 AM
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doru doru is offline
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Aux & CCV are fine. The t-stat is very slow after it hits 55-60 deg C. Weird.
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  #34  
Old 12-04-2012, 12:03 PM
JimLev JimLev is offline
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Doru, thinking outside the box.....try this.
If you think your T-Stat is stuck open try pinching off the top radiator hose, not completely just maybe half to three quarters of the way. Try using vise grips or a C clamp with some pieces of wood on both sides so you don't damage the hose.
This should cut down the coolant flow and possibly make the engine heat up quicker.
You're only driving 12 km to work so the engine should not overheat but keep an eye on the temp gauge. If it heats up much quicker then your T-Stat probably is bad and needs replacing.
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  #35  
Old 12-04-2012, 02:26 PM
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Good trick.

Thanks Jim
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  #36  
Old 12-04-2012, 04:23 PM
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Topaz540i Topaz540i is offline
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Since i moved closer to work my car barely gets up to full temp before i pull in and shut it down so basically i have been drivng around with a cold engine the whole way commuting lately. Being that work is the only place i go my mpgs have dropped from 19.9 to 13 due to no time with it up to temp. Perhaps i should move further away to get better mpgs and save on gas money?


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  #37  
Old 12-05-2012, 07:48 AM
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doru doru is offline
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I have an update. Yesterday, driving home from work: starting the engine, KTMP was 40C, and the engine warmed up to KTMP 94C very quickly, in less than 200yards. This morning, starting the engine stone cold, the KTMP rose quickly again to 60C in about 200 yards, then it stalled as if the T-stat was open. Took again about 3-4 Km to reach 94C. At stop lights, the KTMP would not even budge while idling. Once KTMP reached 94C, it would toggle between 94C-96C. Also, this behaviour is consistent with the instant mpg readings. They are out whack until the engine reaches about 70-72C, where it starts satbilizing, and once the KTMP reaches 92C, you can se a dramatical improvement in mpg.

I think I will change the T-stat this coming spring - it's too cold to work in the garage right now (unless monitoring the KTMP will show a total stoppage of that pesky T-stat, or if I get a GT1 code for the sucker).

I don't think the ECU sends wrong info to the T-stat to open it once the coolant reaches +/- 60C, but it looks like that every other time, especially if it's cold outside, or if the engine sat overnight.

These electronically controlled T-stats start getting under my skin. This is the 3d T-stat I have since I own this car.

What brand of T-stats do we have for the M54 engine anyways, aside from Behr? (the electronically controlled ones)
Should I try the "regular" competition t-stat from Zionsville (expensive)? I know I will have the T-stat code (not shown on the dash) every time I will check for codes, any other drawbacks? Any better brands?
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  #38  
Old 12-05-2012, 08:13 AM
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Fudman Fudman is online now
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Very interesting thread. Last spring (May), I replaced my entire cooling system, including t-stat. There was no noticeable difference before or after, in performance or gas mileage. Soon thereafter, I replaced my O2 sensors and got a noticeable 1-2 mpg improvement in gas mileage. However, I am now noticing (now that cold weather has hit) that the car also takes longer to warm up. My car was usually fully warmed up by the time I hit my first stoplight. Now the temp dial is at the 10-11 o'clock mark at that light. On cold mornings (20s F), it is closer to 10 o'clock. I thougth I was just imagining things but your experience is somewhat similar. And my mileage has noticeably decreased about 1 mpg, from previous cold seasons, so it isn't just winter gas. Now you have me thinking Behr issued a bad batch of T-stats. Hmmm...
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  #39  
Old 12-08-2012, 05:21 AM
poolman poolman is offline
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Doru--you and Fudman got me wondering---had to check it out. The mileage in my car in the has gone south in the last few weeks. Cold weather has finally hit here in the Blue Ridge Mts--So after reading this thread yesterday--I unlocked the dash went on a 60 mile jaunt. The cooling temp never got above 78C in the whole drive. Thats at 70 miles per hour most of the way--Looks like I need a stat also--wondering if the temp sensor at the back of the engine should be replaced also--But 78%C is not promoting good fuel consumption
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  #40  
Old 12-08-2012, 06:13 AM
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16valex 16valex is offline
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Originally Posted by poolman View Post
Doru--you and Fudman got me wondering---had to check it out. The mileage in my car in the has gone south in the last few weeks. Cold weather has finally hit here in the Blue Ridge Mts--So after reading this thread yesterday--I unlocked the dash went on a 60 mile jaunt. The cooling temp never got above 78C in the whole drive. Thats at 70 miles per hour most of the way--Looks like I need a stat also--wondering if the temp sensor at the back of the engine should be replaced also--But 78%C is not promoting good fuel consumption
Definitely a new stat is in order.
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  #41  
Old 12-08-2012, 07:57 AM
poolman poolman is offline
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Crazy thing about this is the temp gauge in the car is reading right in the middle and goes there fairly quickly from when the car is cranked cold ,and driven about a mile or so. I have flushed out the cooling system every two years and all seems to be sound. I think I'll replace the fan and clutch and stat--remove the rad and give it a good cleaning and check everything out--maybe replace the expansion tank as well. Christmas chores ahead it seems. Normally I purchase parts like this from EACtuning--wondering if the stat might be more precise if purchased from the dealership--anyone have info on if this would be the right way to go--or if a stat is a stat as long as it's BMW part

Last edited by poolman; 12-08-2012 at 08:00 AM.
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  #42  
Old 12-08-2012, 08:43 AM
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16valex 16valex is offline
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Poolman you know about the temperature gauge don't you, to remind you, if your engine temp is between 75 and 120C it will show right in the middle.
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  #43  
Old 12-08-2012, 10:47 AM
poolman poolman is offline
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Thanks 16valex--I remembered something screwy with the reading from the gauge--more or less the things there for show and not for actually giving the indication of temp's--Starting to think Jason's idea of haveing another temp gauge in the car would be the thing and Doru's idea of doing away with the electrical gizmo altogether and reverting back to a stat type used on earlier models.
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  #44  
Old 12-08-2012, 10:59 AM
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Jason5driver Jason5driver is offline
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Originally Posted by poolman View Post
Crazy thing about this is the temp gauge in the car is reading right in the middle and goes there fairly quickly from when the car is cranked cold ,and driven about a mile or so. I have flushed out the cooling system every two years and all seems to be sound. I think I'll replace the fan and clutch and stat--remove the rad and give it a good cleaning and check everything out--maybe replace the expansion tank as well. Christmas chores ahead it seems. Normally I purchase parts like this from EACtuning--wondering if the stat might be more precise if purchased from the dealership--anyone have info on if this would be the right way to go--or if a stat is a stat as long as it's BMW part
Hi Poolman...!
I would look at www.eBmwParts.com and www.TheBmwPartStore.com for parts, for sure...!
They are BMW dealers, so, Oem parts, fore sure...!

Another great place is www.BmaParts.com , however, you need to be alert on their website of what is Oem, and what is not...

Thanks!
Jason
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  #45  
Old 12-08-2012, 12:52 PM
poolman poolman is offline
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Thanks Jason--I'll start ordering parts on Monday--wish I could find a cheaper way to do away with the electrical stat--180 bucks for that Zion deal is a little steep--but I do like the idea--I was at the EAC site a little while ago and they were stating that the OEM was wagnor and were also selling the Behr--I didn't know that

Last edited by poolman; 12-08-2012 at 12:54 PM.
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  #46  
Old 12-08-2012, 02:31 PM
Takechan Takechan is offline
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Just last week when it hit minus -1C I noticed it took forever to reach operating temp (middle of gauge). When it finally did, it seemed to hover between dead center and a little to the left. I removed the fan, and it didn't help. Then I replaced the t-stat with an OEM and it heats up very quickly now, compared to before.

The old t-stat was an unoriginal part I installed last April, when I swapped engine. The buildup of yellow residue is also gone now

Funny thing is that I didn't notice any of this until it got pretty cold.
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  #47  
Old 12-08-2012, 02:47 PM
poolman poolman is offline
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I checked my reading back in the summer and the temp was staying right around 93 to 97 C and that was in 90 to 100 degree heat--that's good--but the 76 C after riding for over an hour is bad--I really would like to do away with this gizmo and go to a staright stat--
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  #48  
Old 12-08-2012, 04:17 PM
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Jason5driver Jason5driver is offline
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Originally Posted by poolman View Post
Thanks Jason--I'll start ordering parts on Monday--wish I could find a cheaper way to do away with the electrical stat--180 bucks for that Zion deal is a little steep--but I do like the idea--I was at the EAC site a little while ago and they were stating that the OEM was wagnor and were also selling the Behr--I didn't know that
Which Zionsville thermostat are you referring to...?
This...?
http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/s...54ALUTHERM.htm

http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/s...de/M54CTPK.htm
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Last edited by Jason5driver; 12-08-2012 at 04:20 PM.
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  #49  
Old 12-09-2012, 06:19 AM
poolman poolman is offline
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The second one you listed would be the way to go--wonder if the old type housing would fit our engine--then cut the electrical part out of my old stat; plug that into the harness ,and then runa 95% stat in the car?
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  #50  
Old 12-09-2012, 09:48 AM
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doru doru is offline
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Never thought of retaining the "electronically" part and plug it in as a dummy. But then, you will not acomplish anything, you will still have the failed t-stat code stored. Plugged into the dummy or unplugged. I'd just leave the harness unplugged. But that "cheap" Zions unit is still expensive at 200 bux less 1 buck... I looked at that unit since a loong time. But I'm getting fed up with this OEM t-stat that works only when it wants to.
The danger is that it can take the CCV with it when it gets cold for several days in a row....
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TMS underdrive pullies - Stewart WP - PSS9 - Beisan Vanos seals - Zimmerman cross-drilled & Akebono Euro - Deka 649 MF - 55w HID headlights - 35w HID foglights - Hualigan double din - ACS (rep) alu pedals - Euro central storage console - Breyton Magic Racing staggered wheels - M5 bumper - M5 steering wheel - Tint
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