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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki |
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#26
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BlackBMW...you responded yesterday or the day before about my choice of drive belts for my car and cooling issue suggestions. At the time I did not realize that we have the very same car. Great ride. Just a little more work that I expected. Working on my ABS module at the moment and then the belts and then . . .
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#27
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Quote:
I like it. Just about caught up on all maintenance and fixes. What a great car. And as Redshift would probably say, the 540i Tours Haul...
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1999 540it - Jet Black/Sand Beige, style 5 rims, Zionsville Cooling kit 1984 533i - Schwarz/Schwarz, 17" style 65 reps 1997 318ti Sport - Schwartz II/Schwartz Anthratz, style 68 rims 1995 318ti Sport - Schwartz II/Schwartz Anthratz, style 27 rims 1994 325i Sedan - Bostongrau/Tan 1991 318ic - Schwarz/Anthratz Stoff 1985 635CSI - Schwartz\Sand - Sold 1984 318i - Champagne/Tan, Stock - Sold BMWCCA# 160411 |
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#28
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Replaced mine myself while my headliner is out for paint... Easy as pie... Hardest part is probably having the headliner hang to get in there, but from there it's 2 bolts and unclipping the other end...
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`07 Nissan Sentra SE-R Spec V, `07 Suzuki GSX-R 600, `06 Triumph Daytona 675, `03 Suzuki Aerio SX, `99 BMW 528it |
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#29
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So once I remove the back section of the headliner I will have access? Did you have any pics? Again I will be replacing mine tomorrow after I install the new WP and Thermostat.
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#30
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Sorry, I'm not on much, hope it all worked out... Like I said it's not a difficult job at all, I didnt take any pics...
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`07 Nissan Sentra SE-R Spec V, `07 Suzuki GSX-R 600, `06 Triumph Daytona 675, `03 Suzuki Aerio SX, `99 BMW 528it |
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#31
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No worries. I did replace them and wrote up a small DIY. No Pics thou
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#32
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touring liftgate struts failed
Guys - this job is a piece of cake. The scary part is that you can't see what's going on back there but check out some pics from the manuel. Mine didn't clearly show that the post that the strut connects to points straight up so, some how, you have to force the strut up to make it "pop off". I tried a big screwdriver (not long enough) and finally settled on a 2 foot long crowbar. Worked better than special tool 51 2 151. After removing the covers, clip and pin simply work the crowbar under the strut. Before you shove it back there hold it next to the new strut and make a mark so you know how far back to push it in. Now, [I]gently[I] push down and pop the strut off the pin. Doesn't take any force. The weight of the bar was almost enough by itself. Now work the old strut out - it's a tight fit. Shine a flashlight back there and now you can see how the whole thing works. Theres a pin back there about 1 1/2 inches tall that the strut pops into. Work the new strut back in there and hold the end where the pin goes in place with some needle nose pliers. Now the trick is to lift the far end of the strut up onto that pin. For that I used a "Wonderbar". Played with it a little bit but with the end closest to you aligned it just seemed like it wanted to sit up on that pin. Lastly, you've got to pop the strut onto the pin. [I]Gently[I] stick the crowbar back in there this time on top of the strut. Mine popped right on. Just had to tap the pin back in. Had to get some new clips that hold the pin in place 'cause I bent them but that was my only problem. My car is a 2001 and I only replaced the tailgate struts - the ones for the glass are still working fine. Struts are $63 a piece.
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#33
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I remember following a detailed DIY that was posted on this forum (sorry I can't remember the link). As far as the special tool goes, i used a hollow tube (from a broom) as my "special tool" and it worked quite well. This is really not a difficult DIY, it takes some patience. A quick tip, while you're there, check your trunk wiring loom to see if all is intact.
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#34
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Hatch Struts
I'm in the same boat with my 01 525iT. Car has 89k and hatch struts are useless unless car is parked perfectly FLAT.
I'll be watching this thread for the instructions. |
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#35
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Perhaps this is the DIY link. http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...uring+liftgate
__________________
Either write something worth reading or do something worth writing. Benjamin Franklin 2001 530iA Steel Blue/Sand - Sport/Premium/Cold Package 1999 528iA Jet Black/Black - Sport/Premium/Heated Seats 1999 528iT Cashmere Beige/Sand - Sport/Premium Package - 5 speed 1982 Fiat 2000 Spider - Blue Metallic/Blue |
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#36
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my 2000 528iT is at about 165k miles and I've put up with failing glass struts for some time. Now the tailgate struts are failing as well and i've ordered the parts.
525man mentioned checking the wiring loom. A couple years ago i had to solder some of the wiring up there. My question is: is there a wiring harness/loom than can fairly easily be installed while i've got the headliner down to do the strut job OR (i am presuming) do the wires that control tailgate functions extend well into the the guts of the car, making the install of a harness next to impossible? Last edited by bagodonuts68; 12-13-2012 at 05:43 PM. |
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