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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E36 (1991 - 1999)

E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 12-03-2012, 11:12 AM
kmrpt1 kmrpt1 is offline
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First time buyer of 325i - going to work on it.

Hi Guys I am just going to get next week BMW 325i, manual, black, sedan 370 km on it.
It has some issues like small spots of rust, wiper is not working, driver leather seat is ripped off, handle (on top of stick) is broken, bumper bottom gril is broken, battery is weak etc.
I will put issues one by one here with pictures and will try to DIY to fix it with the help and guidance of you guys.

Thanks.
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  #2  
Old 12-03-2012, 11:19 AM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is online now
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Mein Auto: 1998 BMW 328is
Be sure to read our stickies. Lots of useful info.

General info: LINK

More general info with resource links: LINK

General modification info/FAQs: LINK
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1998 BMW 328is
1966 Pontiac GTO
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  #3  
Old 12-03-2012, 11:23 AM
Eight Thirty Eight Thirty is offline
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  #4  
Old 12-03-2012, 11:30 AM
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TheFinanceGuy TheFinanceGuy is offline
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Best of luck. I know you've been hanging out around here lately. So hopefully you're a step ahead of most newbies.
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  #5  
Old 12-03-2012, 12:45 PM
kmrpt1 kmrpt1 is offline
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Thank you guys all of you. I got much guidance and help from you and updated my knowledge but I still think as newbie.
I will read the thread and will get most of information from there but the purpose of my this thread is that I will discuss one by one issues of specific to my car only and will try to gather all information from this thread and from you guys input. That will be very helpful for me for sure and may be somebody else can also get some use of this information too. So I will start from next week.
I enjoy this thread very much.

Thanks again for every one!

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Originally Posted by ZeGerman View Post
Be sure to read our stickies. Lots of useful info.

General info: LINK

More general info with resource links: LINK

General modification info/FAQs: LINK

Last edited by kmrpt1; 12-03-2012 at 12:46 PM.
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  #6  
Old 12-06-2012, 07:45 PM
kmrpt1 kmrpt1 is offline
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Please guide and help me to make decesion

Please help to understand if I made right decesion or not:
I am confused about what to do; should I sell it and look for batter 318 or better 325 or should I keep it.

Here are details :
Finally I bought 95 325i black sedan in $1000. I was first there to see the car and ppl were calling so I just bought it quickly. But while driving the car back to home, I was confused as due to the following things which I missed it befer: (I was too excited)

Major bad points;

1) 370 km (high miles)

2) Gas consumption: The gas needle was on half when I started to drive the car to bring it home from the buyer. The distance is roughly 64 km or 40 miles. then the gas tank is one quarter now. Now my job is 55 km one way means 110 km daily. I can afford 10 - 15 dollar per day but it seems it would take 25 - 30 dollars daily. May be wrong but gas is $1.30 in Canada (for 91 oct.) ; this is worrying part for me. So I am thinking to buy a 318 instead of 325i.

3) Initially I did not notice on first test drive, as I thought that engine is cold so it is loud but it is actually loud every time on first gear specially and also in second gear; it is loud like a plane but on third and fourth it is ok. But as the engine running wise is strong and quick and transmission and clutch are are also good.

and minor issues;

i) battery is dead or not charged
ii) wiper is not running could be fuse or motor, I will look this weekend
iii) some small rust spots.

If I sell it now... I hope I can sell it $1000 easily without any loss. But if I keep it, definately I will spend money on it; battery, flush all fluids, oil change, plug and wires and some minor body fixes etc.

So I am stop here ... and re-thinking ( I know I am late) that did I a right decesion or I should sell it and wait for good deal.
Please help me in deciding. To be honest was frustrated.. that all good cars when they come on sale, I tried to call them right a way but when I reach there to see the car it is already sold;
This time I was first then I thought if I am late to decide it will be gone too; anyway sorry for long story... now in short is;

I like it as it is 4 door, black, good seats and good driving but it is high milage.. only after 30,000 it will be 400,000 km and if it will take $18 - $20 gas every day for 110 km for my job, it will be hard for me to afford;

If I would keep the car I would keep it for long time.

Can you please help me if I should sell it and buy some other better 325 or should I go of 318. My budget is $3500 for the car + $1500 to spend on it = $5000, and I am only looking for Manual/E36 prefer to be Sedan;

Thanks.
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  #7  
Old 12-06-2012, 08:49 PM
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E36 Phantom E36 Phantom is online now
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Whoa, hold on there skippy. You've driven it 40 miles? There's a lot of things to learn first.

Gas mileage is unknown. You need to fill the tank full, run it to empty, and fill it up again. Then you can calculate your miles over total gallons used in the second fill up.

The airplane is likely the fan clutch, its not releasing and staying engaged for too long. Cheap and easy replacement, do it soon because the fans get brittle and can explode, they're not designed for those types of speeds.

Yeah, it's high mileage, but you got a great price. It's not going to depreciate in a month, so give it some time and see. Impulse decisions are loco.

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  #8  
Old 12-06-2012, 08:56 PM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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Honestly 230k miles (370000km) is not high mileage if it's been serviced regularly. Did it come with any service records?

I'm with Chad on the gas mileage. Gas gauges in these things are notoriously innacurate. You may go 200 miles before it moves off full, then gradually drop for the next 50 and fall like a rock after that. A 40 mile drive is no way to judge gas mileage.

If the body has only minor rust, you got a heck of a bargain
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1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"
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  #9  
Old 12-07-2012, 06:28 AM
kmrpt1 kmrpt1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E36 Phantom View Post
Whoa, hold on there skippy. You've driven it 40 miles? There's a lot of things to learn first.

Gas mileage is unknown. You need to fill the tank full, run it to empty, and fill it up again. Then you can calculate your miles over total gallons used in the second fill up.

...... time and see. Impulse decisions are loco.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornhospital View Post
Honestly 230k miles (370000km) is not high mileage if it's been serviced regularly. Did it come with any service records?

I'm with Chad on the gas mileage. Gas gauges in these things are notoriously innacurate. You may go 200 miles before it moves off full, then gradually drop for the next 50 and fall like a rock after that. A 40 mile drive is no way to judge gas mileage.

If the body has only minor rust, you got a heck of a bargain
I am lukcky that I got this forum and lot of very helpful friends here. Thank you.
I am in; I will keep it now. This weekend I will post the pictures and list of issues with car and will try to find solution here and will solve it one by one with the help of you guys.

Thanks again and have a wonderful day.
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  #10  
Old 12-09-2012, 10:22 PM
kmrpt1 kmrpt1 is offline
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Please see the pictures of my Bimmer;
It has following main issues;
1: Trunk is not opening
2: Hood is not closing
3: Door locks has problem in opening and closing; after many times attempts I can succeed to unlock or lock the door

Later I will deal with rust , radio and knob issues.

First of all please help me to fix the trunk issue as I need to open it to replace the battery and also please guide me that which battery I can put as I asked autozone and Canadian tire they said they dont have battery for BMW; Do I need some special battery?

After battery and trunk I will discuss and struggle to resolve the other issues one by one.

The seller told me that he has replaced the ignition in $900 or $700 and he has four keys for the car. The ignition key has no button but other are with button and on pressing button give light but nothing happen. Does it mean that it needs battery?
The buyer opened the trunk with other key (with button) but now I am unable to open it. When I move the key I can hear the sound of some lock movement but trunk is not opening.

Thanks.
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  #11  
Old 12-09-2012, 10:28 PM
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jonesin jonesin is online now
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The key with the light, is just that, a light. It isn't for unlocking the doors.

For the trunk lock, try spraying some graphite lubricant in there, then work it with the key until it becomes unstuck. It sucks, but is known to happen when locks aren't kept lubricated.

Ed
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  #12  
Old 12-09-2012, 10:34 PM
Eight Thirty Eight Thirty is offline
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i have a bumper cover in my basement you can have.

come to rochester ny and its yours for free.
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  #13  
Old 12-10-2012, 09:11 AM
kmrpt1 kmrpt1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eight Thirty View Post
i have a bumper cover in my basement you can have.

come to rochester ny and its yours for free.
Thank you. May be I will come to see you; first trying to start the car
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  #14  
Old 12-10-2012, 09:13 AM
kmrpt1 kmrpt1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonesin View Post
The key with the light, is just that, a light. It isn't for unlocking the doors.

For the trunk lock, try spraying some graphite lubricant in there, then work it with the key until it becomes unstuck. It sucks, but is known to happen when locks aren't kept lubricated.

Ed
I also have question about battery; Can I use some after market or general battery for my 95 325i ?
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  #15  
Old 12-10-2012, 11:31 AM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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You mean the 12v battery in the trunk? As long as it's 12 v. the posts are oriented correctly, it's of sufficient capacity (CCA, or Cold Crank Amps) and reserve capacity, yes, you can use any battery that fits that description. Look on the battery...it will have a type code. IIRC ours are type 75 (??? could be wrong) and a CCA listed on the case. Just tell the auto parts person you need such-and-such type battery with XXX CCA and they don't need to know it's going in a BMW (they'll ask; just say it's for a spare for your garage). More than once we've tested the local parts houses, asking for a specific type and capacity battery without letting them know the battery was for a Bimmer, then a day later, send someone in to ask the price on a battery for the BMW. The exact same battery was quoted at anywhere from $!5 to $40 more to the "BMW owner". Crooks.
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guessing gets expensive...drivinfaster
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Ken Kanne, Silverhill, AL, E36 Forum Mod/Craigslist addict/Hoarder of all sorts of stuff
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1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"
HAVE I HAD MY MEDS YET?

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  #16  
Old 12-10-2012, 12:15 PM
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This is the only information the Owner's Manual gives for the battery type. The '75' is indicative of ampere hours.
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  #17  
Old 12-10-2012, 12:32 PM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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Nah, It's Group number I was searching for. The 75 is what's in Lurch. Side post, positive left. Stand by, I'll find it. I went out to Elvira and the stickers are all gone from that battery, so I can't tell what group number it is.
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Quotes to live by:
guessing gets expensive...drivinfaster
nothing is more expensive than a cheap BMW...c4harpe13

Ken Kanne, Silverhill, AL, E36 Forum Mod/Craigslist addict/Hoarder of all sorts of stuff
BMW-CCA #441426
1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"
HAVE I HAD MY MEDS YET?

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  #18  
Old 12-10-2012, 12:44 PM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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Location: In the Grumpy Chair
 
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OK, Group size is 92 or T7.
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Quotes to live by:
guessing gets expensive...drivinfaster
nothing is more expensive than a cheap BMW...c4harpe13

Ken Kanne, Silverhill, AL, E36 Forum Mod/Craigslist addict/Hoarder of all sorts of stuff
BMW-CCA #441426
1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"
HAVE I HAD MY MEDS YET?

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  #19  
Old 12-10-2012, 02:11 PM
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No central lock button?
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Jared, why don't you just put "It's Giubo" in your sig? Save a lot of typing.
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this jared guy sounds intimidating lol.
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  #20  
Old 12-10-2012, 09:07 PM
kmrpt1 kmrpt1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonesin View Post
The key with the light, is just that, a light. It isn't for unlocking the doors.

For the trunk lock, try spraying some graphite lubricant in there, then work it with the key until it becomes unstuck. It sucks, but is known to happen when locks aren't kept lubricated.

Ed
Thanks it worked. I sprayed extreme graphite lubricant (from Canadian tire) and I am able to open the trunk but it is still not fixed or worked properly. Here is detail;
1) To open the trunk, the car should be unlocked. When I turned the key in the trunk, it centraly locks the car but does not unlock if it is already locked;
2) I can only unlock the car from driver side door but after many many attempts. The key does not turn and after many attempts it turns and unlock the doors then I can open the trunk. I had sprayed the lubricant on driver side door too. Can you guys guide me how to fix it as locking is main thing; I cannot leave the car unlocked but once it is locked hard to unlock it.
Thank you guys; I am resolving issues one by one, as winter is here and after job has limited time to work so slowly slowly I am working but I will resolve all issues soon hopefully.
So please guide me to fix the lock system; Should I open the door trim and sprayed the lubricant?
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  #21  
Old 12-10-2012, 09:13 PM
kmrpt1 kmrpt1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petriej View Post
No central lock button?
Where is the central lock button?I tried to find but could not find it. There is button on left side of the shift (in middle of window buttons) but on pressing it nothing happens.
Please show me the picture if possible.
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  #22  
Old 12-11-2012, 07:11 AM
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petriej petriej is offline
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The button you found locks the rear windows so kids (and other undesirables) cannot operate the windows from back there.

It looks like you don't have a central lock button. Weird.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornhospital View Post
Jared, why don't you just put "It's Giubo" in your sig? Save a lot of typing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by e36 miguel View Post
this jared guy sounds intimidating lol.
2005 X5 4.8is Le Mans/Black/6spd Steptragic
1999 M3 Cabrio TiAg Metallic/Dove Grey/Black 5 Speed Manual
-------------------------------------------------------------------
1997 328iC Schwarz II/K/K 5MT SOLD 5/2012
2004 645Ci Mineral Silver Metallic/Black 6MT RIP 04/2011
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  #23  
Old 12-11-2012, 08:21 AM
SCJon SCJon is offline
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This is what it would look like.
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So let it be written, so let it be done.
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  #24  
Old 12-11-2012, 08:41 AM
kmrpt1 kmrpt1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCJon View Post
This is what it would look like.
Ahh... I dont have that button

Now I want to fix the lock at least one side, either driver side or trunk side;

From trunk I can lock all doors but cannot unlock the any door (Although I heard sound while I turn the key);
while from driver side, key in the lock, does not turn easily in first attempt but after many many attempts suddenly it unlock all the doors at once (if locked already) or lock all the doors at once (if unlocked already).

Which fix is easy so that at least I have one reliable way to lock/unlock the car, later i will fix the other side.

From trunk looks easy.
But I am not sure that from trunk all cars have option (from the factory) or not to unlock the car? I assume it should have.


Thanks.

Last edited by kmrpt1; 12-11-2012 at 08:49 AM.
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  #25  
Old 12-11-2012, 09:39 AM
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jonesin jonesin is online now
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One potential solution, at least so you don't get stuck, is to get an alarm with a fob.
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