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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 12-12-2012, 11:28 PM
BlackMax540 BlackMax540 is offline
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Mein Auto: 1999 BMW 540i
1999 540i - becoming very discouraged-Help

I bought my 1999 540i a couple weeks ago and i still cannot get it to start. The engine turns over and have been consulting the bentley. I have tested the fuel pump to make sure it is running and with a jumper wire in the relay slot 6 and 2 the pump does come on. There is no check engine light on at all ... i have tested all the coils and checked the coil connectors with the multimeter with no problems found. However i believe the rear main seal is gone because there is oil coming out from the hole in the bellhousing of the transmission close to the crankshaft speed sensor( which appears to be new) also i noticed there was possibly some oil around the exhaust manifold at the back of the head. Does anyone have any ideas ... i really would like to be able to get this car running so i can experience it... I have never got to drive it yet...Where is the best place to buy parts and or for quality used engines. Please help me! Any help would be truely appreciated. Also is there anyone here from close to Myrtle Beach, SC?

Thanks Everyone!

Alex
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  #2  
Old 12-12-2012, 11:41 PM
GSXRYDER GSXRYDER is offline
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Alex

Why would you be talking about replacing the engine when you haven't done anything yet? Engines get all kinds of tests before they are deemed 'to be replaced'. You have a non-running car and it appears you are relying on nothing for facts. First why not get a code reader and plug it in...if someone pulled the check engine light bulb you think it is ok and the codes are stored...Start with that! lets see what that gives you. A rear main leak is bad but not necessarily time to replace the motor same thign with a valve cover gasket...these are all very fixable...

Do you have fuel at the rail? is fuel getting through the filter?

Are you getting spark? Remember fuel, and spark and compression are required for an engine to run...

I use Advanced Auto parts all the time for my 540.

I bet you have a crank posn or cam posn sensor out...but I have to little data to give you an accurate assessment...GL
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Last edited by GSXRYDER; 12-12-2012 at 11:44 PM.
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  #3  
Old 12-13-2012, 12:05 AM
BlackMax540 BlackMax540 is offline
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well the engine has 210k and i know there are many out there running with way over that. when i pulled the spark plugs out they were wet with fuel and no oil on them. when i tested the coil connectors with the multimeter it was reading 12.0V when i turn the ingnition on. I performed the resistance test on the coil packs and they all read 0.8ohms . The guy that i bought the car from replaced the starter, crankshaft speed sensor, MAF, the right camshaft sensor, one fuel line, bought a new key and had the stealer program it, and a battery. He stated when i that he drove the car home one day and it never started again. The check engine light does light up when i turn the ignition on and when it starts cranking the light goes off.
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  #4  
Old 12-13-2012, 04:26 AM
JimLev JimLev is online now
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Mein Auto: 540/6, S60 Volvo, Tribeca
Have you actually checked to see if you have a spark at any of the plugs?
Pull the pass side cabin air filter off and then the top cover of the DME box. In the back you'll see a fuse block that has 5 fuses, check them.
Hows the wiring from the t-stat heater look? That wire goes into the box above the pass side valve cover and then into the DME box. If its burnt it will blow one of those fuses.
Your oil leak at the back of the head is the valve cover gasket.
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  #5  
Old 12-13-2012, 07:09 AM
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AnotherGeezer AnotherGeezer is offline
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Me thinks the OP should have consulted this forum before he bought this car.
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  #6  
Old 12-13-2012, 07:17 AM
DONROD DONROD is offline
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If you are losing oil that bad, and dont have enough in the motor, she will not start, top it off and see what happens
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  #7  
Old 12-13-2012, 08:54 AM
edjack edjack is offline
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Just because the CEL is not lit does not mean there are no stored codes. Not all codes will light it.

Make sure to check for pending codes, too, and follow the above suggestions.
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Last edited by edjack; 12-13-2012 at 08:56 AM.
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  #8  
Old 12-13-2012, 11:11 AM
NinerFan NinerFan is offline
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I mean, why not take it to a good shop for diagnostic. They should only charge $100-$150 to diagnose your problems. Than you can start ordering parts and looking for new engines. It could be a few too many things for anyone here to list. Do yourself a favor, get it to a mechanic that has BMW certification and tools to properly diagnose the car.
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  #9  
Old 12-13-2012, 01:55 PM
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doru doru is offline
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He can't take it to a shop. the car doesn't start. So that's at least a one way tow, plus the diagnose.
To the OP: you said the CPS is new. Can you check and see if it's OEM, or aftermarket? Aftermarked seem to not work.
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  #10  
Old 12-13-2012, 04:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackMax540 View Post
Where is the best place to buy parts and or for quality used engines.
This has a lot of suggestions:
- Summary advice to provide users who suspect a major engine repair due to overheating (1) (2) (3) (4) & how to test an engine for a blown head gasket, cracked heads, a warped block, stripped head bolt threads, cam seizures, contaminated bearings, coolant hydrolock, or piston, ring, or valve damage (1) (2) & what are the major factors in deciding whether to rebuild the engine, replace the engine, or sell the car (1) & a DIY for replacing the I6 M54 head gasket (1) (2) & replacing the V8 M62TU head gasket (1) & why these engines are so prone to heat-related damage in the first place (1) & welding the crack between cylinder #3 and the water jacket on the exhaust side (1) & what engine swaps are most recommended (1) (2) (3) & where to obtain a new or rebuilt head (1) replacement short block or long block (1) (2) & how to lift & remove the engine (1) & the most recent real-world results from the last 50 people faced with similar blown engine problems from which this advice came from (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) (12) (13) (14) (15) (16) (17) (18) (19) (20) (21) (22) (23) (24) (25) (26) (27) (28) (29) (30) (31) (32) (33) (34) (35) (36) (37) (38) (39) (40) (41) (42) (43) (44) (45) (46) (47) (48) (49) (50)
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Please read the suggested threads, where the best always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #11  
Old 12-14-2012, 07:31 AM
BlackMax540 BlackMax540 is offline
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Well as of now the engine is locked up. Inside the valve covers is just filled with metal and grime. It appears that the previous owner had not changed the oil. Should i start looking for another engine or look into have this one rebuilt? Where should i look for a used engine?
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  #12  
Old 12-14-2012, 11:18 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackMax540 View Post
Where should i look for a used engine?
Did you see an answer to that question in the links prior to your post?
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Please read the suggested threads, where the best always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #13  
Old 12-14-2012, 11:33 AM
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Fudman Fudman is offline
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You bought a car with 210K, an unknown history that would not start. Unless the cost was less than $100, that was your first mistake. You bought a car model that is notorious for costing more to maintain than to buy (unless you DIY) is your second mistake. That you are not really listening to the advice people are giving you is your third mistake. At least you were smart enough to come to this forum for assistance. If you have the money to rebuild or buy a new engine, you are very fortunate. Reread the responses, do as they say and methodically analyze the problem to determine if you need a new engine. First and foremost, PULL THE CODES. That is ALWAYS the first starting point with indeterminate engine issues.
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  #14  
Old 12-14-2012, 11:50 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fudman View Post
PULL THE CODES. That is ALWAYS the first starting point with indeterminate engine issues.
Doesn't even cost much either:
- Cheapest CAN OBDII scanner on the net that reads DTCs, pending codes, & clears codes
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Please read the suggested threads, where the best always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #15  
Old 12-14-2012, 12:38 PM
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AnotherGeezer AnotherGeezer is offline
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What's the code for "blown engine"? ...---... ...---...
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  #16  
Old 12-14-2012, 06:17 PM
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dms540i dms540i is offline
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Oooooooh!

I have to edit this. My original response was emotion, and alas, contains nothing to help the OP. And to that I am sorry. On reflection why not take the time to find a shop in your area with experience, have it towed there, and pull the codes?
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Last edited by dms540i; 12-14-2012 at 06:43 PM.
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