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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #126  
Old 02-27-2012, 08:36 PM
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morrisroad morrisroad is offline
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Entire sensor. It was -11C yesterday and I still had the miss. Unfortunatley, replacing the sensor did not solve the cold rough idle problem.
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  #127  
Old 02-28-2012, 07:45 AM
bbones bbones is offline
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'99 528i rough idle

Found the trouble, a bad coil.
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  #128  
Old 02-29-2012, 04:14 AM
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morrisroad morrisroad is offline
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Good to hear. In my case, I replaced all the coils along with a long list of things of other things, but still have the rough idle when cold.
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  #129  
Old 03-09-2012, 05:50 AM
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morrisroad morrisroad is offline
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Put my old temp sensor back in since it had been acting up with the new sensor.
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  #130  
Old 03-13-2012, 07:16 PM
Softhands Softhands is offline
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Rough Idle in the Morning 2003 530i

For the last couple of months I have been getting a rough idle in the morning or when the car cools down typically 4 to 5 hours. When it is hot it runs good!

I went out and started up this morning after clearing the codes and it idled rough and within a minute or two check engine light came on. I turned it off and scanned it and I got a P1347 misfiring 3 cylinder. Is it possible I have a blown head gasket and during the night it leaks coolant into the 3 cylinder hence the rough idling?

Last edited by Softhands; 03-13-2012 at 07:17 PM. Reason: typos
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  #131  
Old 03-13-2012, 07:19 PM
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doru doru is offline
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Is there white smoke coming out the tailpipe?
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  #132  
Old 03-13-2012, 08:01 PM
Softhands Softhands is offline
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no white smoke at this time. I also have replaced the spark plug and wire.
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  #133  
Old 12-05-2012, 02:36 PM
TEdward TEdward is offline
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morrisroad - Any updates on fixing the issue on your car. I'm having cold rough idle also, did a smoke test no leaks and cleaned throttle body but still have rough idle on cold start.
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  #134  
Old 12-26-2012, 09:30 AM
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morrisroad morrisroad is offline
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Car is gone now - no further updates forthcoming.
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  #135  
Old 11-29-2013, 12:36 AM
vinic vinic is offline
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Hi to all,
My car, an e39 525i M54 from 2002 had all the symptoms described here at cold start, rough idle, often engine was stalling, loss of power at normal temperature.
As a lot users from here, I have tested from a friend selling used parts almost all:
Fuel injection and pump, cranks shaft sensor, idle speed control valve.
I have also bought the following new OEM parts:
DISA, CCV with all pipes, O-rings, both camshaft sensors , fuel filter, fuel vacum pump from the left side of the fuel tank(or how is called), valve cover gasket, all oil gaskets that were leaking.
I have checked intake boots/
When I have done the Beyssan seals diy for the vanos pistons I have noticed that the distribution seemed to be delayed as cause of timing chains degradation/usage. The chain after some km starts to loosen, to have grater and grater play between joints and so it becomes longer than initial, and as a cause of this the variation angle/ the advance for the exhaust and intake came shaft is modified and so the vanos timing is not any more working as it should be.
The cold start rough idle did not disappear after vanos rebuild.
The car had about 280000km.

I have bought and replaced the both timing chains and the car is now back as it was a long time ago.
After erasing all adaptations the car started to run perfect, like the engine was all rebuild.
It runs fine at cold start up and without any stalling, the power has increased, the consumption has decreased about 2l per 100km. The engine acceleration is more sensitive and prompter, the engine intake filter and final exhaust sounds more sportive. The couple has also increased.
I mention I have not replaced any of the chain tensioners or followers, I have replaced only the two timing chains.
I hope this post will help some one. At least not to buy anymore a lot of parts which are not necessary to change.
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  #136  
Old 11-26-2015, 01:35 AM
Bell1121 Bell1121 is offline
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No one has pointed out one of the obvious the air pump that goes to the EGR the if it's not powerful enough will not help the engine get rid of the extra emissions, i took my EGR off and saw it was full of carbon buildup and the first cylinder where the EGR is located the spark plug had carbon buildup as well I must have a vacuum leak between the air pump EGR or the hoses that go under the intake manifold
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  #137  
Old 11-26-2015, 01:48 AM
Bell1121 Bell1121 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Softhands View Post
For the last couple of months I have been getting a rough idle in the morning or when the car cools down typically 4 to 5 hours. When it is hot it runs good!

I went out and started up this morning after clearing the codes and it idled rough and within a minute or two check engine light came on. I turned it off and scanned it and I got a P1347 misfiring 3 cylinder. Is it possible I have a blown head gasket and during the night it leaks coolant into the 3 cylinder hence the rough idling?
Cold start is cause by many things but the mayor one EGR problems it's must be clock with carbon buildup or vacuum leak once it warms up the EGR is no longer needed to recirculate the exhaust fumes to warm up the engine quicker after the engine warms up the EGR closest engine normal operations begin there's an air pump the helps the engine with the exhaust fumes to the EGR and the exhaust check this thing
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  #138  
Old 03-10-2016, 04:56 AM
nyce39 nyce39 is offline
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Has anyone resolved this cold-start hunting issue that is not related to the VANOS seals or a vacuum leak? I have replaced everything that MORRISROAD did, but I still have the same dipping idle on cold starts. The RPMs dip every 19 seconds or so, not 7 seconds that is typical of bad VANOS seals. The idles stay consistent when warm and the engine runs strong at all times.

One user solved it by replacing the timing chains, but can someone explain why that would resolve the issue?
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  #139  
Old 03-14-2016, 09:51 AM
michalko.j michalko.j is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Softhands View Post
For the last couple of months I have been getting a rough idle in the morning or when the car cools down typically 4 to 5 hours. When it is hot it runs good!

I went out and started up this morning after clearing the codes and it idled rough and within a minute or two check engine light came on. I turned it off and scanned it and I got a P1347 misfiring 3 cylinder. Is it possible I have a blown head gasket and during the night it leaks coolant into the 3 cylinder hence the rough idling?
Try pulling on the wires to the ignition connector of cyl 3 while running. If the miss becomes intermittent with your touch it is likely shorted wires. I had the same issue recently and assumed the worst at first as well.
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  #140  
Old 03-14-2016, 11:51 AM
eohagan eohagan is offline
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Mine was resolved by changing both throttle body gaskets
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  #141  
Old 03-15-2016, 03:08 PM
nyce39 nyce39 is offline
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I think there's two issues at play for me on cold starts. A stumbling (feels like a misfire) and a dipping idle.

The throttle body and DISA o-rings are brand new (OE BMW, not a generic OEM brand). As are the o-rings for the Air Distribution piece and fuel injectors. It feels like an electrical issue and here's why: when I feel the stumble upon a cold start, I can shut down the engine and restart, and the engine idles smoothly.

If it's not a stumble but just a dipping of the idle at approx. 19 second intervals - I'll have to to see if shutting down and restarting the engine helps. I know disconnecting the VANOS does not help (new VANOS seals).

I'm thinking about tightening up the throttle cable so the throttle body plate sits slightly cracked open (i.e. never fully closes shut) even at idle. Does anyone know if the throttle plate should be slightly open, anyway? Maybe that's my problem.

Also, upon cold start and as the engine is warming up, the idles don't drop smoothly from one RPM to the next lower threshold. It's like it abruptly "steps" down to the next lower threshold. Is that what is expected?

Again, the car runs awesome as long as I'm not idling, even when the motor is stone cold.
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  #142  
Old 03-16-2016, 03:28 PM
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Brandon002 Brandon002 is offline
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How did you get an OE DISA o-ring? Last I checked this part isn't available aside from aftermarket suppliers.
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  #143  
Old 03-16-2016, 03:30 PM
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Brandon002 Brandon002 is offline
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And what throttle cable? I know my TB sits partially open with the car off. Impossible to check at idle as the car won't run with the intake hoses off.
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  #144  
Old 03-16-2016, 03:53 PM
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mattmar1 mattmar1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nyce39 View Post
I think there's two issues at play for me on cold starts. A stumbling (feels like a misfire) and a dipping idle.

The throttle body and DISA o-rings are brand new (OE BMW, not a generic OEM brand). As are the o-rings for the Air Distribution piece and fuel injectors. It feels like an electrical issue and here's why: when I feel the stumble upon a cold start, I can shut down the engine and restart, and the engine idles smoothly.

If it's not a stumble but just a dipping of the idle at approx. 19 second intervals - I'll have to to see if shutting down and restarting the engine helps. I know disconnecting the VANOS does not help (new VANOS seals).

I'm thinking about tightening up the throttle cable so the throttle body plate sits slightly cracked open (i.e. never fully closes shut) even at idle. Does anyone know if the throttle plate should be slightly open, anyway? Maybe that's my problem.

Also, upon cold start and as the engine is warming up, the idles don't drop smoothly from one RPM to the next lower threshold. It's like it abruptly "steps" down to the next lower threshold. Is that what is expected?

Again, the car runs awesome as long as I'm not idling, even when the motor is stone cold.
what year/model is your car? if I6 engine, pre 2001 is cable throttle, post is fly by wire.
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99 528i 5sp sport, vanos rebuild,coolingoverhaul,stripped/repainted/polished/recoated OEM BBS style 5 wheels, new paint , all int/ext LED's clear corners, all vac leaks fixed, eonon 5166, ECS short shifter, LED ae's and fog lights (clear), all brakes, fixed trifecta, rear control arm camber repair, new throttle body, ccv delete, but it ended up as a huge vac leak, returned to new stock ccv, new injectors, cloned and replaced dme.
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  #145  
Old 03-16-2016, 04:04 PM
nyce39 nyce39 is offline
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2000 528i automatic tranny. Bought all parts from Tischer or FCP Euro after researching on RealOEM. I prefer buying from the latter supplier.

I'll tighten the throttle cable to have the throttle plate partially cracked open and will report back.
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  #146  
Old 03-16-2016, 04:28 PM
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Brandon002 Brandon002 is offline
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If it idles poorly, but runs fun otherwise you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Check all vacuum hoses as well as the vacuum caps on the back of the intake manifold.
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  #147  
Old 03-17-2016, 11:10 AM
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mattmar1 mattmar1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nyce39 View Post
2000 528i automatic tranny. Bought all parts from Tischer or FCP Euro after researching on RealOEM. I prefer buying from the latter supplier.

I'll tighten the throttle cable to have the throttle plate partially cracked open and will report back.
2000 528i is the semi fly by wire, the throttle plate should be fully closed with no throttle pedal pressure. if it is hanging open any amount, your dme may sense it and send the engine in to limp mode.
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99 528i 5sp sport, vanos rebuild,coolingoverhaul,stripped/repainted/polished/recoated OEM BBS style 5 wheels, new paint , all int/ext LED's clear corners, all vac leaks fixed, eonon 5166, ECS short shifter, LED ae's and fog lights (clear), all brakes, fixed trifecta, rear control arm camber repair, new throttle body, ccv delete, but it ended up as a huge vac leak, returned to new stock ccv, new injectors, cloned and replaced dme.
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  #148  
Old 03-17-2016, 11:16 AM
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mattmar1 mattmar1 is offline
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Originally Posted by Brandon002 View Post
If it idles poorly, but runs fun otherwise you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Check all vacuum hoses as well as the vacuum caps on the back of the intake manifold.
+1...have you read, or do you have the equipment to read your fuel trims? knowing this could help prove or disprove whats youre seeing.
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99 528i 5sp sport, vanos rebuild,coolingoverhaul,stripped/repainted/polished/recoated OEM BBS style 5 wheels, new paint , all int/ext LED's clear corners, all vac leaks fixed, eonon 5166, ECS short shifter, LED ae's and fog lights (clear), all brakes, fixed trifecta, rear control arm camber repair, new throttle body, ccv delete, but it ended up as a huge vac leak, returned to new stock ccv, new injectors, cloned and replaced dme.
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  #149  
Old 03-17-2016, 11:51 AM
nyce39 nyce39 is offline
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I have not read fuel trims. What's the least expensive way to do that? I've been considering getting INPA - will that do it?

Thanks for the info on the throttle plate...
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  #150  
Old 03-17-2016, 03:16 PM
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mattmar1 mattmar1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nyce39 View Post
I have not read fuel trims. What's the least expensive way to do that? I've been considering getting INPA - will that do it?

Thanks for the info on the throttle plate...
if youre droid, id recommend the torque app and an elm327 bluetooth adapter. ios, dashcommand and the elm327. under $20 for the whole setup. inpa will get you there as well, as will the creator 110/310 and many other handhelds.
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99 528i 5sp sport, vanos rebuild,coolingoverhaul,stripped/repainted/polished/recoated OEM BBS style 5 wheels, new paint , all int/ext LED's clear corners, all vac leaks fixed, eonon 5166, ECS short shifter, LED ae's and fog lights (clear), all brakes, fixed trifecta, rear control arm camber repair, new throttle body, ccv delete, but it ended up as a huge vac leak, returned to new stock ccv, new injectors, cloned and replaced dme.

Last edited by mattmar1; 03-17-2016 at 03:58 PM.
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