135i clutch out at 46k miles?

Hey guys, I bought my first bmw (135i 2009) Friday night and long story short the "clutch" went out on me the very next day.

Story: I was driving normal as a approached a red light I pressed the clutch to the floor and lifted my foot and the clutch stayed on the floor. I got the car in 1st and pulled into a parking lot and had it taken to BMW of Nashville. I was almost positive it was just going to be a slave cylinder. They called today to let me know it is the clutch. The clutch didn't show any signs of slipping or burning smell. They haven't pulled the tranny yet but they're positive its the clutch. I didn't notice any fluid leaking.

I'm wanting to see what everyones input is on the subject. Good thing is that I have a BMW maint. plan on the car but that only covers the clutch, not the flywheel. The flywheel alone is a $1.4k job.

Thanks, Justin

Also there was a small exclamation mark with a triangle around it that came up and started counting the miles since it was on. I was low on gas and thought it was because of that. The dealer said there is no warning light for low clutch fluid and it came up becasue the clutch slipped. I didn't feel it. It got to about 25 when the problem happened.

It sounds like your pressure plate bit the dust. The warning light is from the DSC. It sensed that the engine rpm is not in sync with the speed of the car (i.e. the clutch is slipping). I'm not sure if this is covered under the maintenance plan but do your homework to find out what is definitely covered so you're not shelling out money on expensive parts and labor if you don't have to.
Also, clutch hydraulics share the same fluid as the brakes. If the fluid was low you would see the brake warning light. But, if I'm not mistaken, the clutch pulls the fluid from a high spot in the reservoir, so if the slave cylinder started leaking it would be able to leak enough fluid out to trigger the light.

It's not uncommon for a clutch to go out at 46k...depending on how the car was driven. I have had clutches last 150k driving lightly and had m3 clutches burn in 25k because I was a knucklehead.

Clutch, resurfacing of pressure plate and labor should be covered by maintenance plan assuming two things...

1) If DCT and launch control wasn't used more than 3 or 4 times since new (I forgot which but they do look it up)
2) pressure plate doesn't show excessive wear. If its blue you'll be blue..,.

Originally Posted by x3brian

1) launch control wasn't used more than 3 or 4 times since new (I forgot which but they do look it up)

The only launch control on a 6MT 135i is your left and right feet.

Valid point. I assumed DCT as the post didn't specify 6mt or DCT. Post above edited.

The dealership called and said that the clutch was in pieces! Really? I didn't even drive it hard for the 24 hours I owned it so I guess bad timing from previous owner beating on it. I'm stopping by tomorrow without asking and seeing if the tranny is really pulled of if they're just trying to bend me over. And now he is saying that the flywheel is able to be resurfused when at first he said it couldn't be. To many fishy things going on with this.

Originally Posted by x3brian

Valid point. I assumed DCT as the post didn't specify 6mt or DCT. Post above edited.

NP, the DCT wasn't available until 2011 when the N55 switch happened.

Originally Posted by spooledsouth

The dealership called and said that the clutch was in pieces! Really? I didn't even drive it hard for the 24 hours I owned it so I guess bad timing from previous owner beating on it. I'm stopping by tomorrow without asking and seeing if the tranny is really pulled of if they're just trying to bend me over. And now he is saying that the flywheel is able to be resurfused when at first he said it couldn't be. To many fishy things going on with this.

If the PO really beat on the clutch, ran it hot, burned it or wore out the lining, then the flywheel would be completely spent and need to be replaced. If the pressure plate self destructed on its own because of a manufacturing defect then the flywheel is likely to be in good shape and can probably be left as is.
If I'm not mistaken, BMW explicitly says that dual mass flywheels should never be resurfaced. Due to the nature of their design it is impossible to control the runout while resurfacing and clutch chatter, judder, etc. will likely happen after the new clutch is installed.

I would highly recommend taking a look at the parts yourself and see if there's any evidence of the PO driving it hard (glazed or excessively worn lining, burnt or scorched pressure plate and/or flywheel). If it looks like the springs in the pressure plate just exploded, then it's likely no fault of anyone who's driven the car, just bad luck.

This is the picture they sent me.

I wanted to see the fly wheel but it was still in the car they said and the car was outside on these rolling dolly type things because I'm still raising hell with corp to at least get a new flywheel for free. I don't want the old fly wheel in either way but don't want to pay the 3.4k for clutch and flywheel install. Right now the price is at 1.6k for a new clutch, resurface the flywheel and labor.

I'd freaking call BMWNA if you bought it at one of their dealers... Thats unacceptable if they sold you the car and the next day it falls apart. If the clutch is "in pieces" take a camera and snap pictures for BMWNA.

Well that's the thing, I didn't buy it at one if their dealers. I've been talking to bmwna and I'm waiting to hear from a resolution specialist. I at least want a new flywheel for free.

Is the clutch delay valve something that needs to be removed on these cars? I was on modbarrgings and saw the delete kit and read a little about the OEM part. Apparently it delays the clutch from full engagement to avoid drive train shoc. Correct me if I'm wrong, but couldn't that burn a clutch out especially if the driver were already use to releasing the clutch cautiously?

The clutch delay valve should remain installed if you want to keep your warranty. Removal is a popular aftermarket mod to give you a better feeling in the clutch pedal during engagement. Some argue that keeping the valve can result in premature wear since it can cause excessive slipping in the clutch under certain circumstances.

But, I think it's a moot point right now. I would encourage you to go to the dealer and take some pictures of your own. The one above isn't too clear and it's hard to see if the lining has any glazing on it. Also, the pressure plate is covered in clutch dust so it's impossible to see if it has any scorching or burn marks.
While you're there, crawl under the car and snap a pic of the flywheel.

If there's no evidence of excessive heat, burning, scorching, glazing, etc. on any of the components, then BMW will be hard pressed to find a reason to blame this failure on the driver(s) of the car. In this case, it's just a stroke of bad luck and the lining decided to disintegrate. If there's any evidence of heat build-up, then you're stuck with the bill, sorry.

Originally Posted by spooledsouth

Well that's the thing, I didn't buy it at one if their dealers. I've been talking to bmwna and I'm waiting to hear from a resolution specialist. I at least want a new flywheel for free.

Is the clutch delay valve something that needs to be removed on these cars? I was on modbarrgings and saw the delete kit and read a little about the OEM part. Apparently it delays the clutch from full engagement to avoid drive train shoc. Correct me if I'm wrong, but couldn't that burn a clutch out especially if the driver were already use to releasing the clutch cautiously?

Does the vehicle still have new car warranty?

If you didn't buy a CPO BMW how can it be BMW's fault? The previous owner didn't know how to drive standard... and unfortunately you're the one who has to fix it!

Originally Posted by spooledsouth

This is the picture they sent me.

Ughh. I feel your pain.

Is there a way to check the clutch before you buy a car. I am in the market for a 135 manual.

Originally Posted by robacks

Is there a way to check the clutch before you buy a car. I am in the market for a 135 manual.

If you've driven manuals before you should be able to tell if the clutch is worn and/or has problems since it will slip and that is something you will notice for sure. I guess other problems could come on suddenly, such as what happened to the OP in the this thread. But it would have been interesting to drive it just before it happened to see if any symptoms existed.

What year & type 135 manual you looking for?

I am thinking about a 09 or 10 135i CPO car. Does the CPO warranty cover the clutch. I would assume not because its a wear part.

The clutch is covered on the new car warranty, unless they can prove you modded the car or severly abused it; however, I am not sure about the CPO warranty...I suspect that someone will chime soon.

Just looked a the BMW site and the clutch is not covered. None of the wear items are covered.

Maintenance; engine, transmission, and body adjustments; wheel alignment, balancing or rotation; wiper blade inserts; engine drive belts; spark plugs; filters; fuses; all batteries; all hoses and clamps (except air conditioning and power steering); oils, lubricants, fluids, refrigerants and coolants (except as required in the course of a covered repair); brake pads and rotors; brake shoes and drums; manual transmission clutch assemblies; suspension dampers (shock absorbers/strut elements); exhaust systems; tires.

Originally Posted by snowcatxx87

Does the vehicle still have new car warranty?

If you didn't buy a CPO BMW how can it be BMW's fault? The previous owner didn't know how to drive standard... and unfortunately you're the one who has to fix it!

The PO new how to drive it, the PO just drove it hard. But, this type of failure is usually seen on an XI 335. Usually with this type of failure the flywheel is fine and you will notice that there is plenty of friction material. This type of failure will not give you any symptoms.

As my 2007 335i convert approches end of warrenty (at 73,000 now), I am seriously considering a cpo 1335i or is coupe as a replacement. Therte are very few CPO 335i coupes with 6 sp in this area, but a few 1 series with manual are showing up. Test drove a1335 and did not really find the smaller car unpleasant to drive-the shorter wheelbase and smaller turning circle were ok! Anyone else made this switch from 335i to 1335i? Looking for a 2011-2013 with manual tranny and fully equipped with nav. Comments?