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  #1  
Old 10-21-2012, 07:36 AM
flash_n flash_n is online now
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Location: Connecticut
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 100
Mein Auto: 745Li
DIY - E65/E66 - Valve cover gasket (driver side)

After taking care of the oil leak coming out of the vac pump, now it's time to turn my attention to the valve cover gaskets. This DIY is about the drivers side (so far).

For this E65/E66 DIY you'll need:
- Gasket set (Zyl. 5-8) : 11127513195 : 75$
- Rubber seals (3x spares) : 11127511582 : 8$ (optional)
- Valvetronic O-Ring : 07119903596: 3$
- Sensor Sealing : 11127518420: 5$
- Sensor O-Ring 2x : 12141748398: 5$
- Cap Nut 4x : 11127568834: 15$ (optional)
- Cap Nut 4x : 11127568835: 20$ (optional)
- Pipe 4x : 11127570219 : 100$
- Spark Plugs 8x : 45$ (optional)

- Torque wrench capable of 5 - 25NM
- Torx sockets (male & female), Tx20, 25, 27, 30 - E6
- Metric sockets 10mm
- Good (!!) set of socket tools including universal joints, multiple lenth extenders

Difficulty Level 1-10: 8 -- there is danger of breaking other items and you may be left with a non-driveable vehicle. Took me 2 full days to complete.

Before starting to work, remove the lover engine compartment screening and reinforcement plate. You will drop stuff, this will give you a chance to retrieve it.
Also let the engine cool down.

Use two compartmented boxes. One for the parts to be inserted. One for the parts extracted. Place them in chronological order.

Before you start, these are the items I had most difficulty with. Think about them and possibly you can avoid them.
- the retaining tabs on the eccentric shaft sensor break easily. If you break both, its a 350$ part.
- there is a levelling sensor at the bottom of the hydraulic oil reservoir. If your not careful, it breaks. Sensor is cheap, but you need the drain the reservoir to replace.
- the fuel liine needs to be disconnected to take the cover out. You'll be surprised how much fuel comes out. Have plugs for both ends ready... before you disconnect.
- to remove the old round rubber seals, place the valve cover on a large piece of cardboard. The old seals were quite bittle and broke during removal. You do not want to have little plastic pieces floating around in your oil system. Check that all is clean.
- the TIS tells you to replace the round rubber seals before re-inserting the valve cover. 3 of the lower ones popped out and were found a day later in the most unaccessable areas. I'd suggest to insert them after the valve cover is back in.
- The pipes do not like to be inserted into the valve cover easily - even with anti-friction coating. The lower cap nuts then will not engage. I used some self made washers to use the upper cap nuts and increase tension. Also wood and a mallet comes to thought.
- torques are not listed in TIS. Be careful not to overtorque.


1) Remove engine accoustic cover
2) Remove both fresh air ducts
3) Remove centre engine compartment partition wall (5171085)
4) Remove ignition coil covering
5) Remove ignition coils (1213511)
6) Optional - Replace spark plugs (1212011) 23NM - use anti-seize agent
7) Remove servomotor for left eccentric shaft (1137022) - you must reinitialize the valvetronic setting before starting the engine, once the repair is completed. I heard this happens automatically after 20secs - ignition on w/o starting (aka foot off brake pedal). I re-learned it in INPA.
8) Replace sealing left cylinder head cover (1112005)
Removing and inserting the valve cover is very difficult, as there is not enough room to clear the eccentic shaft sensor. The valve cover has to be rotated with the front up maybe 25 to clear it. Took me forever.

- I used permatex ultra blue where drei bond 1209 was called for.
- Glycerin served as my rubber anti-friction coating, but was not helpful enough.
- To torque down the lower side I used self made aluminum washers. Most likely there are off the self washers, that can be used instead.
- Initially I overtorqued the fasteners. My final setting was 10NM.

9) Put everything back together again. Use
- 10 NM for the valve cover nuts and bolts
- 5NM for the torx sensor bolts
- 5NM for the Valvetronic spacer bolts
- 8NM for the Valvetronic motor

10) I've attached some additional pictures of where I was able to find the dropped parts. All where accounted for. A stick with some duct tape proved to be most helpful.


Hope this is a help.
Regards, flash-n
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__________________
Silver 2004 BMW E66 / 745Li (DIYs):
ASK, Logic 7, blower, battery, guibo joint, active stabilizer bar bushings, diff oil, tranny sw update, vacuum pump gasket, window lift, a/c compressor, washer fluid reservoir, belt tensioner and deflector, crankcase vacuum hoses, crankcase vents, solenoid gaskets, headlight overhaul, ISM, hood lifts, driver mirror, sway bar end links, rear fog lamps, headlight washer, headlight vertical aim, VCGs
next up: P0492

Last edited by flash_n; 10-21-2012 at 09:54 AM. Reason: additional information
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  #2  
Old 10-25-2012, 10:37 AM
Bmw413 Bmw413 is offline
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Mein Auto: 04 745li
GREAT write up! I have to replace my vavle cover gasket as well! You just boosted my confidence lol
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  #3  
Old 10-25-2012, 07:55 PM
flash_n flash_n is online now
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Location: Connecticut
 
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Mein Auto: 745Li
Good luck, let me know how it went.
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Silver 2004 BMW E66 / 745Li (DIYs):
ASK, Logic 7, blower, battery, guibo joint, active stabilizer bar bushings, diff oil, tranny sw update, vacuum pump gasket, window lift, a/c compressor, washer fluid reservoir, belt tensioner and deflector, crankcase vacuum hoses, crankcase vents, solenoid gaskets, headlight overhaul, ISM, hood lifts, driver mirror, sway bar end links, rear fog lamps, headlight washer, headlight vertical aim, VCGs
next up: P0492
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  #4  
Old 10-26-2012, 11:27 AM
Bmw413 Bmw413 is offline
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Ok I started the vavle cover gasket! I removed all the coils diconnect everything. I was removing the e6 bolt that holds the sensor closest to the coil and the head snapped right off! It was very rusted I thought it was no big deal but does that e6 screw into the cylinder head itself because I can't seem to get the valve cover to come off... It's stuck in that corner
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  #5  
Old 10-27-2012, 06:51 AM
flash_n flash_n is online now
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Were you able to take the sensor out? If you are able to remove the lower sensors that are retained with one bolt each, you should be able to remove the cover.
Don't forget there is another fastener behind the sensors that holds the cover down.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Bmw413 View Post
Ok I started the vavle cover gasket! I removed all the coils diconnect everything. I was removing the e6 bolt that holds the sensor closest to the coil and the head snapped right off! It was very rusted I thought it was no big deal but does that e6 screw into the cylinder head itself because I can't seem to get the valve cover to come off... It's stuck in that corner
__________________
Silver 2004 BMW E66 / 745Li (DIYs):
ASK, Logic 7, blower, battery, guibo joint, active stabilizer bar bushings, diff oil, tranny sw update, vacuum pump gasket, window lift, a/c compressor, washer fluid reservoir, belt tensioner and deflector, crankcase vacuum hoses, crankcase vents, solenoid gaskets, headlight overhaul, ISM, hood lifts, driver mirror, sway bar end links, rear fog lamps, headlight washer, headlight vertical aim, VCGs
next up: P0492
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  #6  
Old 10-27-2012, 08:43 AM
Bmw413 Bmw413 is offline
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Location: Springfield,ma
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flash_n View Post
Were you able to take the sensor out? If you are able to remove the lower sensors that are retained with one bolt each, you should be able to remove the cover.
Don't forget there is another fastener behind the sensors that holds the cover down.
I missed that fastener! I figured it out yesterday. I did break my Vanos lines they were very brittle.
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  #7  
Old 10-27-2012, 04:45 PM
Abb745 Abb745 is offline
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Location: Wichita Falls Tx
 
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Did you have a long plastic thing with wires that runs to cab on the side of your valve gasket covers? I think it goes to the valve tronic thing. Can't figure out how to get it off?
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  #8  
Old 10-28-2012, 04:50 PM
flash_n flash_n is online now
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Could you post a picture showing the wires please?
I don't specifically remember anything like what you are describing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Abb745 View Post
Did you have a long plastic thing with wires that runs to cab on the side of your valve gasket covers? I think it goes to the valve tronic thing. Can't figure out how to get it off?
__________________
Silver 2004 BMW E66 / 745Li (DIYs):
ASK, Logic 7, blower, battery, guibo joint, active stabilizer bar bushings, diff oil, tranny sw update, vacuum pump gasket, window lift, a/c compressor, washer fluid reservoir, belt tensioner and deflector, crankcase vacuum hoses, crankcase vents, solenoid gaskets, headlight overhaul, ISM, hood lifts, driver mirror, sway bar end links, rear fog lamps, headlight washer, headlight vertical aim, VCGs
next up: P0492
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  #9  
Old 12-09-2012, 07:57 AM
Stephen Max Stephen Max is offline
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Mein Auto: 1998 M3, 2004 545i
If you take an old towel and stuff it between the cylinder head and fender wall you will catch everything you might drop.
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  #10  
Old 12-26-2012, 09:45 PM
TUF-FKR TUF-FKR is offline
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Remove servomotor for left eccentric shaft (1137022) - you must reinitialize the valvetronic setting before starting the engine, once the repair is completed. I heard this happens automatically after 20secs - ignition on w/o starting (aka foot off brake pedal). I re-learned it in INPA.

DO you need INPA to do the valve cover gaskets? I am having a BMW Tech help me put it back together at my house.
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  #11  
Old 12-27-2012, 08:19 AM
flash_n flash_n is online now
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Good question, i believe i also saw a post that the valvetronic resets itself like you described. The way i chose was according to TIS. Maybe shoot Keif a pm.
__________________
Silver 2004 BMW E66 / 745Li (DIYs):
ASK, Logic 7, blower, battery, guibo joint, active stabilizer bar bushings, diff oil, tranny sw update, vacuum pump gasket, window lift, a/c compressor, washer fluid reservoir, belt tensioner and deflector, crankcase vacuum hoses, crankcase vents, solenoid gaskets, headlight overhaul, ISM, hood lifts, driver mirror, sway bar end links, rear fog lamps, headlight washer, headlight vertical aim, VCGs
next up: P0492
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  #12  
Old 12-27-2012, 02:43 PM
Keif Keif is offline
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Mein Auto: 2007 Alpina B7
Pretty sure I recall reading in WDS or similar that upon start, if the car sees a difference in the expected position of the eccentric shaft that it will automatically re-learn its position/extents -- I'll try to get a link. <edit> ...text below.

From WDS:
Quote:
Learning function/adaptation
The learning procedure runs automatically if, for example after a repair, a difference between the last stop position and the new starting position (with terminal 15 on) is detected. The adaptation can also be requested via the DIS-plus Tester.
So then to answer your question, no, you don't need INPA to do stuff that involves removing the valvetronic motor; the car will re-learn what it needs when you put it back together.
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Last edited by Keif; 12-27-2012 at 03:30 PM.
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  #13  
Old 12-28-2012, 08:39 AM
TUF-FKR TUF-FKR is offline
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Thanks guys. My riding buddy is a BMW Tech for local BMW dealership and he built my confidence on how easy it will be to pull the covers after giving me a brief over-view of what is required to be removed to get them off. I will pull them off, then he will come by and help re-assemble. But then after looking at your DIY about how you can break so many items, I am now starting to doubt myself again... I am doing both sides. Bank 1 is leaking BAD, Bank 2 just a couple drips.

My warranty company just rebuilt the top end and did not install the valve covers properly, they screwed up other things in my car and it was covered in paint over-spray. Needless to say I was pissed and got the BBB involved, but I no longer want them to do any work to my car.

FYI, my BMW tech said the valve covers have to be inserted a specific way or they will leak. There are "feet" on the covers that have to snap in, many guys break them off because they cant get them in right, this also causes leaks. FYI.

I have plans to complete this in the next week. I will update when im done. Thanks for the input guys.
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  #14  
Old 03-19-2014, 08:10 PM
Jorge554 Jorge554 is offline
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Location: Calexico,CA
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 79
Mein Auto: 2003 BMW 745LI
BMW E66 745lI

Quote:
Originally Posted by flash_n View Post
After taking care of the oil leak coming out of the vac pump, now it's time to turn my attention to the valve cover gaskets. This DIY is about the drivers side (so far).

For this E65/E66 DIY you'll need:
- Gasket set (Zyl. 5-8) : 11127513195 : 75$
- Rubber seals (3x spares) : 11127511582 : 8$ (optional)
- Valvetronic O-Ring : 07119903596: 3$
- Sensor Sealing : 11127518420: 5$
- Sensor O-Ring 2x : 12141748398: 5$
- Cap Nut 4x : 11127568834: 15$ (optional)
- Cap Nut 4x : 11127568835: 20$ (optional)
- Pipe 4x : 11127570219 : 100$
- Spark Plugs 8x : 45$ (optional)

- Torque wrench capable of 5 - 25NM
- Torx sockets (male & female), Tx20, 25, 27, 30 - E6
- Metric sockets 10mm
- Good (!!) set of socket tools including universal joints, multiple lenth extenders

Difficulty Level 1-10: 8 -- there is danger of breaking other items and you may be left with a non-driveable vehicle. Took me 2 full days to complete.

Before starting to work, remove the lover engine compartment screening and reinforcement plate. You will drop stuff, this will give you a chance to retrieve it.
Also let the engine cool down.

Use two compartmented boxes. One for the parts to be inserted. One for the parts extracted. Place them in chronological order.

Before you start, these are the items I had most difficulty with. Think about them and possibly you can avoid them.
- the retaining tabs on the eccentric shaft sensor break easily. If you break both, its a 350$ part.
- there is a levelling sensor at the bottom of the hydraulic oil reservoir. If your not careful, it breaks. Sensor is cheap, but you need the drain the reservoir to replace.
- the fuel liine needs to be disconnected to take the cover out. You'll be surprised how much fuel comes out. Have plugs for both ends ready... before you disconnect.
- to remove the old round rubber seals, place the valve cover on a large piece of cardboard. The old seals were quite bittle and broke during removal. You do not want to have little plastic pieces floating around in your oil system. Check that all is clean.
- the TIS tells you to replace the round rubber seals before re-inserting the valve cover. 3 of the lower ones popped out and were found a day later in the most unaccessable areas. I'd suggest to insert them after the valve cover is back in.
- The pipes do not like to be inserted into the valve cover easily - even with anti-friction coating. The lower cap nuts then will not engage. I used some self made washers to use the upper cap nuts and increase tension. Also wood and a mallet comes to thought.
- torques are not listed in TIS. Be careful not to overtorque.


1) Remove engine accoustic cover
2) Remove both fresh air ducts
3) Remove centre engine compartment partition wall (5171085)
4) Remove ignition coil covering
5) Remove ignition coils (1213511)
6) Optional - Replace spark plugs (1212011) 23NM - use anti-seize agent
7) Remove servomotor for left eccentric shaft (1137022) - you must reinitialize the valvetronic setting before starting the engine, once the repair is completed. I heard this happens automatically after 20secs - ignition on w/o starting (aka foot off brake pedal). I re-learned it in INPA.
8) Replace sealing left cylinder head cover (1112005)
Removing and inserting the valve cover is very difficult, as there is not enough room to clear the eccentic shaft sensor. The valve cover has to be rotated with the front up maybe 25 to clear it. Took me forever.

- I used permatex ultra blue where drei bond 1209 was called for.
- Glycerin served as my rubber anti-friction coating, but was not helpful enough.
- To torque down the lower side I used self made aluminum washers. Most likely there are off the self washers, that can be used instead.
- Initially I overtorqued the fasteners. My final setting was 10NM.

9) Put everything back together again. Use
- 10 NM for the valve cover nuts and bolts
- 5NM for the torx sensor bolts
- 5NM for the Valvetronic spacer bolts
- 8NM for the Valvetronic motor

10) I've attached some additional pictures of where I was able to find the dropped parts. All where accounted for. A stick with some duct tape proved to be most helpful.


Hope this is a help.
Regards, flash-n
Your right putting that valve cover back in is a pain in the ass broke eccentric shaft sensor while trying to put i back in today there $325 each on ebay.
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  #15  
Old 06-18-2014, 10:19 AM
Jorge554 Jorge554 is offline
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Location: Calexico,CA
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 79
Mein Auto: 2003 BMW 745LI
Thank you very much has been instrumental to finish my work. Thank you again sir.
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  #16  
Old 06-19-2014, 03:24 AM
flash_n flash_n is online now
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Connecticut
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 100
Mein Auto: 745Li
Glad it helped :-)

Sent from BimmerApp mobile app
__________________
Silver 2004 BMW E66 / 745Li (DIYs):
ASK, Logic 7, blower, battery, guibo joint, active stabilizer bar bushings, diff oil, tranny sw update, vacuum pump gasket, window lift, a/c compressor, washer fluid reservoir, belt tensioner and deflector, crankcase vacuum hoses, crankcase vents, solenoid gaskets, headlight overhaul, ISM, hood lifts, driver mirror, sway bar end links, rear fog lamps, headlight washer, headlight vertical aim, VCGs
next up: P0492
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  #17  
Old 06-27-2014, 10:14 AM
Jorge554 Jorge554 is offline
Registered User
Location: Calexico,CA
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 79
Mein Auto: 2003 BMW 745LI
lower side

how did you torque down the lower side they are a pain just to get a single cap screw and grommet in.

Quote:
Originally Posted by flash_n View Post
After taking care of the oil leak coming out of the vac pump, now it's time to turn my attention to the valve cover gaskets. This DIY is about the drivers side (so far).

For this E65/E66 DIY you'll need:
- Gasket set (Zyl. 5-8) : 11127513195 : 75$
- Rubber seals (3x spares) : 11127511582 : 8$ (optional)
- Valvetronic O-Ring : 07119903596: 3$
- Sensor Sealing : 11127518420: 5$
- Sensor O-Ring 2x : 12141748398: 5$
- Cap Nut 4x : 11127568834: 15$ (optional)
- Cap Nut 4x : 11127568835: 20$ (optional)
- Pipe 4x : 11127570219 : 100$
- Spark Plugs 8x : 45$ (optional)

- Torque wrench capable of 5 - 25NM
- Torx sockets (male & female), Tx20, 25, 27, 30 - E6
- Metric sockets 10mm
- Good (!!) set of socket tools including universal joints, multiple lenth extenders

Difficulty Level 1-10: 8 -- there is danger of breaking other items and you may be left with a non-driveable vehicle. Took me 2 full days to complete.

Before starting to work, remove the lover engine compartment screening and reinforcement plate. You will drop stuff, this will give you a chance to retrieve it.
Also let the engine cool down.

Use two compartmented boxes. One for the parts to be inserted. One for the parts extracted. Place them in chronological order.

Before you start, these are the items I had most difficulty with. Think about them and possibly you can avoid them.
- the retaining tabs on the eccentric shaft sensor break easily. If you break both, its a 350$ part.
- there is a levelling sensor at the bottom of the hydraulic oil reservoir. If your not careful, it breaks. Sensor is cheap, but you need the drain the reservoir to replace.
- the fuel liine needs to be disconnected to take the cover out. You'll be surprised how much fuel comes out. Have plugs for both ends ready... before you disconnect.
- to remove the old round rubber seals, place the valve cover on a large piece of cardboard. The old seals were quite bittle and broke during removal. You do not want to have little plastic pieces floating around in your oil system. Check that all is clean.
- the TIS tells you to replace the round rubber seals before re-inserting the valve cover. 3 of the lower ones popped out and were found a day later in the most unaccessable areas. I'd suggest to insert them after the valve cover is back in.
- The pipes do not like to be inserted into the valve cover easily - even with anti-friction coating. The lower cap nuts then will not engage. I used some self made washers to use the upper cap nuts and increase tension. Also wood and a mallet comes to thought.
- torques are not listed in TIS. Be careful not to overtorque.


1) Remove engine accoustic cover
2) Remove both fresh air ducts
3) Remove centre engine compartment partition wall (5171085)
4) Remove ignition coil covering
5) Remove ignition coils (1213511)
6) Optional - Replace spark plugs (1212011) 23NM - use anti-seize agent
7) Remove servomotor for left eccentric shaft (1137022) - you must reinitialize the valvetronic setting before starting the engine, once the repair is completed. I heard this happens automatically after 20secs - ignition on w/o starting (aka foot off brake pedal). I re-learned it in INPA.
8) Replace sealing left cylinder head cover (1112005)
Removing and inserting the valve cover is very difficult, as there is not enough room to clear the eccentic shaft sensor. The valve cover has to be rotated with the front up maybe 25 to clear it. Took me forever.

- I used permatex ultra blue where drei bond 1209 was called for.
- Glycerin served as my rubber anti-friction coating, but was not helpful enough.
- To torque down the lower side I used self made aluminum washers. Most likely there are off the self washers, that can be used instead.
- Initially I overtorqued the fasteners. My final setting was 10NM.

9) Put everything back together again. Use
- 10 NM for the valve cover nuts and bolts
- 5NM for the torx sensor bolts
- 5NM for the Valvetronic spacer bolts
- 8NM for the Valvetronic motor

10) I've attached some additional pictures of where I was able to find the dropped parts. All where accounted for. A stick with some duct tape proved to be most helpful.


Hope this is a help.
Regards, flash-n
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  #18  
Old 03-22-2015, 08:13 AM
bigbillyboy bigbillyboy is offline
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Thanks for the writeup. Took an entire Saturday, but got it all done. This was a definitely a major pain.
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Old 03-23-2015, 10:39 AM
Quarta2Six Quarta2Six is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigbillyboy View Post
Thanks for the writeup. Took an entire Saturday, but got it all done. This was a definitely a major pain.
Planning on doing this in a couple weeks on my 545.... Any tips you want to add that arent in the thread. I also have another DIY im going to be following. Also did you replace spark plug tubes or reused the old ones? Thanks
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Old 03-23-2015, 06:21 PM
bigbillyboy bigbillyboy is offline
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I reused the old tubes. In retrospect , I would have changed them. I also would do the timing covers. I could have saved myself a bunch of work if I had removed the fresh air intake all the way to the firewall to start. For some reason I didn't think it came out. This made it impossible to get the vc off. Also, be sure to lube the spark Tubes. Those thing are a bitch to get seated. Lastly, I Didn't have any washers to use to seat the vc, and after screwing with it for a looooooong time went and bought some. It helped a ton.

Good luck.
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Old 03-25-2015, 06:26 AM
Quarta2Six Quarta2Six is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigbillyboy View Post
I reused the old tubes. In retrospect , I would have changed them. I also would do the timing covers. I could have saved myself a bunch of work if I had removed the fresh air intake all the way to the firewall to start. For some reason I didn't think it came out. This made it impossible to get the vc off. Also, be sure to lube the spark Tubes. Those thing are a bitch to get seated. Lastly, I Didn't have any washers to use to seat the vc, and after screwing with it for a looooooong time went and bought some. It helped a ton.

Good luck.
Ok cool..... I bet that duct work is an important step. Can you explain what you mean when you used washers to seat the valve cover?
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04' 545/ 6 Spd Manual / Blk Lthr / Sport Pkg / Sport Sts / Logic 7 / Cold Wthr Pkg / Full L.E.D. Interior / Red Eng. Cvr / Mtech Front Bmpr / M5 Side Skirts / M5 Spoiler / Matte Blk Grill / Red Caps / Drilled Rotors / 20" Varrstoen ES1 / Mtec V3's / RPI Scoops / RPI Exhaust...Work In Progress $$$$$$$

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Old 03-26-2015, 08:02 AM
bigbillyboy bigbillyboy is offline
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The valve cover bolts have a rubber washing that compresses when you tighten it. The bolts bottom out and it didn't pull the vc down far enough to seat. I went to the hardware store and got some fender washwrs, stacked them on top of each other so I could pull the valve cover down. It'll make sense when you get in there.
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  #23  
Old 03-30-2015, 08:07 AM
Quarta2Six Quarta2Six is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigbillyboy View Post
The valve cover bolts have a rubber washing that compresses when you tighten it. The bolts bottom out and it didn't pull the vc down far enough to seat. I went to the hardware store and got some fender washwrs, stacked them on top of each other so I could pull the valve cover down. It'll make sense when you get in there.

I think I get what you're saying without having a visual. The washers push the rubber down with bottoming out the bolt so then you have to remove the washer once down to actually tighten the cover correct? Any chance you know the size of the washers you used and how many u stacked? Inner diameter and outer? That would great I could just grab it before I start the work.
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