What is the difference between a 325es and 325i?

My first e30 was a 1986 325es, which I drove until 1999. Sold it, bought a SUV, and then last year I found a 1990 325i convertible in mint condition and bought it. Now my daily driver.

My former car had the 12 button computer which used to tell me that it got 32 mpg. My "new" car gets 25mpg hwy, 22 city.

From my research, my 325es had a 2.7 liter motor, my new one has a 2.5 liter motor. Am really curious what the difference really is between the two cars?

Both are manual transmissions, both fly down the interstate with ease... and I put premium fuel in both.

Was the rear end different in the 325es? Geared significantly higher or something?

search function is your friend. use it next time before asking questions that can take seconds to find the answer to.

the e is the "ETA" model. built for gas mileage. even though it won't get your 32mpg claim. the "i" motors have more horsepower, obviously they use more fuel.

different years and models have different gearing. on top of the 325i already gettign less gas mileage, you have a vert .. which makes the gas mileage worse than a coupe or sedan.

As for "search function is your friend. use it next time before asking questions that can take seconds to find the answer to."

Don't be a jerk. While you are at it, how about using proper grammar. No offense, but really, you don't need to be an ass about it.

As for "the e is the "ETA" model. built for gas mileage. even though it won't get your 32mpg claim."

I drove the car for 13 years, and yes, it did get 32 mpg when driving at 55 MPH. If you recall, that was the speed limit from 1986 - 1999. I assure you, it did. I did not believe it myself, so I used to fill it up and use the trip meter and set it to 000, then check it the next time I filled it. Also, I am not an aggressive driver. I don't stomp on the accelerator every time the light turns green.

Having a convertible makes sense for not getting great mileage. Increased wind resistance for one thing, and probably the gear ratio is another. It is impossible for me to compare the highway MPG now because the speed limit is now 70 MPH and I would get run over if I knocked her down to 55... guess I'll never really know. Another theory is ethanol is more common now, but in 1987 it probably was not.

Who knows...

Originally Posted by tdennehy

Don't be a jerk. While you are at it, how about using proper grammar. No offense, but really, you don't need to be an ass about it.

if you ever want help in the future, don't be a douche to people who helped even when you could have helped yourself.

i was going to tell you what your most likely problems are and what code 1211 means in your other post, but now you're on your own.

Only way that eta got 32 MPG is with the motor off pushed down a hill.



I no expert I have only owned over 11 of these cars in the past 6 years.......

As for the 32 MPG, I promise you it certainly did. I recall I bought the car from the Rick Hendrick's in Charleston, SC. It was a year old, and the sales gal told me that she has never seen another BMW get that kind of mileage.

It was a two door car, obviously. I drove it on the highway, not city, every day, up and down I-26. That road is as flat as a pancake, too. The other part is that the speed limit was 55 MPH at that time, and that is what I drove. It was also a stick shift. I always put premium in it, and the gas did not have ethanol, but that should not have anything to do with it.

I have only met one other person with a 325es, and they got the same kind of mileage.

I used to drive about a mile and a half and then jump on the interstate and drive 28 miles to work. I would get to 55 MPH and put her in 5th gear and go... that car was very good to me.

I drive a 1986 325es and I get 31 MPG.

A few questions:

Are you running any mods? I'm not. All stock but radio.
Do you drive aggressively?
Is yours a stick or automatic? I'm stick.
Do you drive more highway or city? I'm almost always highway only.
Are you in a hilly environment? I'm a flatlander.
What kind of gas do you put in? I use Hess Premium unleaded.
I run Bosch platinum plugs, and OEM wires, cap and rotor. I also use 5th gear a lot.

Originally Posted by SWISS

Only way that eta got 32 MPG is with the motor off pushed down a hill.



I no expert I have only owned over 11 of these cars in the past 6 years.......

Originally Posted by fcsteve

if you ever want help in the future, don't be a douche to people who helped even when you could have helped yourself.

i was going to tell you what your most likely problems are and what code 1211 means in your other post, but now you're on your own.

Seriously? Are you in the 4th grade or something?

Why would you assume that I did not look up what the code meant? All research points to:
"1211 - DME, Motronic computer, related fault - which may indicate problem with car computer itself. Delete any stored codes and perform following test: Start the car and let it run for 30 seconds; Turn off car and let it sit for another 30 seconds; Perform diagnostic test again; If the same flash code re-appears DME should be replaced"

I have done all of those recommendations. Here are all the codes:

http://e30world.com/fuel/BMW-E30-DME...ic-fault-codes

None of which mention "your gas cap is loose". I have been driving BMWs since 1987 and can remember when Bimmer owners actually helped each other out!

Originally Posted by tdennehy

I have been driving BMWs since 1987 and can remember when Bimmer owners actually helped each other out!

Most of us still do. Some do, but go around with a chip on their shoulder for no apparent reason.

This may help. it has an interesting and unexpected solution:

http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=69067

Good luck!

I read multiple threads from different websites and saw that many people recommended disconnecting the batter for 20 mins to reset the CEL.

I went out to the car this morning and did exactly that. Half hour later, I connected the battery and started the motor. No more check engine light.

I did, however, park on a hill last night with the front of the car pointing uphill. When I started the car, the oil light came on up on the check panel. Since this is just an oil fill sensor and not oil pressure, I figured the hill had something to do with it. I drove it around the block after checking the dipstick (which was fine) and parked it on the hill again, but aiming downhill. Ten minutes later, the check light went out. My assumption is oil drained out of the little switch in the oil pan.

One thing to note, however. I tried to use the stomp test this morning to see if there was any more codes, and I could not get the stomp test to even work. I'm guessing this has something to do with me disconnecting the battery.

No weekend is complete without four trips to the hardware store. So after that is complete, I will use the stomp procedure this evening to look for any new codes. Hopefully there will be none.

I think this whole thing was caused by me not screwing the gas cap on correctly, and the computer didn't know what code to post, so it gave me the 1211. With any luck my issue has gone for good... and lesson learned.

Could have gone about what Steve said to you in a better way instead of acting like a 4 grader....

My ETA at the highest got 28mpg, swapped in a m52 and got that with the 2.92 plus 200hp+ with M cams. Then put in a 4.10

I'm guessing you are a bit more mechanically inclined that me if you swapped out your motor! 200 horses definitely makes her a sleeper!

What are your thoughts about swapping out the rear end to increase your fuel efficiency?

My little 1990 325i convertible is all stock and has plenty of power - but does lack the fuel efficiency I was expecting. I guess that's what I get for not researching the car before I bought it and expecting it to get as much as my 325es did.

I tried filling her up with 91 octane that contained no ethanol. MPG improved by 2 miles per gallon, but if cost me 50 cents more/gal... so that was a wash. Almost as if the gas company knew that was going to be that way!

I now drive my car two miles on a country road and jump on the interstate and drive 24 miles, then get off a mile from work - so most of my commute is highway.

Any thoughts? I mean... honestly, I should not complain about a 23 year old car getting 25 mpg... but every bit helps.

Do you have any pics of that 4.10 in your e30?



My ETA at the highest got 28mpg, swapped in a m52 and got that with the 2.92 plus 200hp+ with M cams. Then put in a 4.10

Here's another guy that gets the same MPG as I was stating... now to figure out what the heck I was doing right!

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...uel+efficiency

Originally Posted by SWISS

Only way that eta got 32 MPG is with the motor off pushed down a hill.



I no expert I have only owned over 11 of these cars in the past 6 years.......

A 2.93 would improve gas mileage. That's the rear in a ETA. Could prob find one for $150 bucks and is a easy swap. The car would feel different. Lower acceleration and such. Your vert should have a 3,73 I believe. Youd not going to get ETA mileage with it tho.

http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1863

I am going to do some researching to see if anyone has swapped out their rear differential for an LSD, going from a 3.73 to a 2.93. With any luck I can find someone that has already done it in the BMWCCA chapter in Sacramento...

I don't want to lose a lot of power, but honestly, I don't go tearing around like a NASCAR driver anyway. Fuel economy is important to me.

I would also pay a mechanic that has done it several times, just to know that it is done right...

Thanks for the information!

Originally Posted by Tkaczuk

A 2.93 would improve gas mileage. That's the rear in a ETA. Could prob find one for $150 bucks and is a easy swap. The car would feel different. Lower acceleration and such. Your vert should have a 3,73 I believe. Youd not going to get ETA mileage with it tho.

http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1863

Originally Posted by tdennehy

I am going to do some researching to see if anyone has swapped out their rear differential for an LSD, going from a 3.73 to a 2.93. With any luck I can find someone that has already done it in the BMWCCA chapter in Sacramento...

I don't want to lose a lot of power, but honestly, I don't go tearing around like a NASCAR driver anyway. Fuel economy is important to me.

I would also pay a mechanic that has done it several times, just to know that it is done right...

Thanks for the information!

i have done a small case 4.45 open diff to 3.74 medium case LSD in an E30. relatively easy swap.

i would not go to a 2.93 in a 325i though

Originally Posted by _Ethrty-Andy_

i have done a small case 4.45 open diff to 3.74 medium case LSD in an E30. relatively easy swap.

i would not go to a 2.93 in a 325i though

What do you think the out come would be? He clearly is only concerned with gas mileage.

Originally Posted by Tkaczuk

What do you think the out come would be? He clearly is only concerned with gas mileage.

there will be no change in milage unless doing very high milage at freeway speeds, because the vehicle will have to work harder to get it moving in the first place. will be worse around town.

remember, BMW didn't just slap any old diff in there because it fits, each diff is selected specifically for that vehicle depending on engine size, transmission, body shape and if it has the towing package. there are roughly 10 different diffs for every BMW chassis in this era

Originally Posted by _Ethrty-Andy_

there will be no change in mileage unless doing very high mileage at freeway speeds, because the vehicle will have to work harder to get it moving in the first place. will be worse around town.

remember, BMW didn't just slap any old diff in there because it fits, each diff is selected specifically for that vehicle depending on engine size, transmission, body shape and if it has the towing package. there are roughly 10 different diffs for every BMW chassis in this era

Okay, so maybe not a 2.93.

I think it could make a good difference. The 2.93 in my swapped E30 was low on the power band but got much better mileage while the 4.10 could pull down a house and had crappy'er mileage.

Best bet, buy a 86-86 325e or es.

Originally Posted by Tkaczuk

Okay, so maybe not a 2.93.

I think it could make a good difference. The 2.93 in my swapped E30 was low on the power band but got much better mileage while the 4.10 could pull down a house and had crappy'er mileage.

Best bet, buy a 86-86 325e or es.

4.1 to 2.93 is a HUGE difference, thats a reduction of almost 1.2:1

Originally Posted by Tkaczuk

Okay, so maybe not a 2.93.

I think it could make a good difference. The 2.93 in my swapped E30 was low on the power band but got much better mileage while the 4.10 could pull down a house and had crappy'er mileage.

Best bet, buy a 86-86 325e or es.

Nice alliteration. I had a 4.10 on a e36 trans in my first swap car and 1st gear was a roller, topped out 5th at 85-90 @6300.

Swapped in a 3.25LSD out on an auto 535is e28 and it was much better. Ideally tho I mean
IDEALLY...you want a S3.46.

Originally Posted by SWISS

Nice alliteration. I had a 4.10 on a e36 trans in my first swap car and 1st gear was a roller, topped out 5th at 85-90 @6300.

Swapped in a 3.25LSD out on an auto 535is e28 and it was much better. Ideally tho I mean
IDEALLY...you want a S3.46.

Of course, at the time I was still new to how that stuff all worked. I could do 100 with the 4.10 nothing great amd crusing speeds were high but I could smoke most people in acceleration.

Also OP has a rag top. The aerodynamics will prevent sedan mpg.

Originally Posted by tdennehy

I am...in Sacramento...

Welcome to the fest! There others on here from Sacramento and we are always happy to help!

Enjoy your e30...always one of my favorites.