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7 Series - E65 / E66 (2002 - 2008)
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  #151  
Old 12-30-2012, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by cmpcpro View Post
Well I've understood why modded stat is needed from begining, it's way too hot.. I am starting to think this BMW coolant is the cause.. when I replaced coolant the first time I used only 1/3 bottle of BMW coolant, and rest distilled water and it ran the best.. then I replaced the aux water pump and I used more coolant.. and it ran worse a little.. now I replaced the cooling system and used a whole bottle of coolant, basically exactly 50/50 and now it's running the worst..

This is the update: Drove the car again and noticed tstat stopped opening all together.. would run at 105/106.. got on freeway drove 10 miles or so and no tstat opening.. just ran at 105 solid.. got off freeway and right up to 106/7.. now when I turned around and headed back after about 5 minutes the tstat started opening again, and the whole ride home it would open correctly, got down to 102.. the last 5 minutes home it was at 102 the whole time.. hit traffic and it goes right back up to 106/7 and won't open again.. my issue is, I realize it's a good chance something is up with heater or heater hoses, but everytime I change something it either gets worse or better.. the times it's got better was with less coolant.. when I drained my orig coolant, if you shook it a little or dribbled water in it, it would start to foam with bubbles.. I am wondering if this think BMW coolant is junk!
Yeah, either bmw coolant is junk or its actually the only best coolant which can sustain that crazy heat without boiling?? May be that's why my system works bc it's not that hot??
But I still recommend you to replace upper hoses, bc they are connected to the firewall and get too much stretching bc engine vibrates
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  #152  
Old 12-30-2012, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by cmpcpro View Post
Well I've understood why modded stat is needed from begining, it's way too hot.. I am starting to think this BMW coolant is the cause.. when I replaced coolant the first time I used only 1/3 bottle of BMW coolant, and rest distilled water and it ran the best.. then I replaced the aux water pump and I used more coolant.. and it ran worse a little.. now I replaced the cooling system and used a whole bottle of coolant, basically exactly 50/50 and now it's running the worst..

This is the update: Drove the car again and noticed tstat stopped opening all together.. would run at 105/106.. got on freeway drove 10 miles or so and no tstat opening.. just ran at 105 solid.. got off freeway and right up to 106/7.. now when I turned around and headed back after about 5 minutes the tstat started opening again, and the whole ride home it would open correctly, got down to 102.. the last 5 minutes home it was at 102 the whole time.. hit traffic and it goes right back up to 106/7 and won't open again.. my issue is, I realize it's a good chance something is up with heater or heater hoses, but everytime I change something it either gets worse or better.. the times it's got better was with less coolant.. when I drained my orig coolant, if you shook it a little or dribbled water in it, it would start to foam with bubbles.. I am wondering if this think BMW coolant is junk!
This is exactly how mine operates,EXACTLY.Im starting to think this is normal operation.Any factory info Ive found says normal operating temps are from 85c to 110c.I still agree with SFbay in that its way to hot for life of engine.Im only saying this because BMW would tell us this is within normal operating range and nothing wrong.http://http://www.bawarec.ru/manuals/7er/e65/manuals-7er-e65-12.pdf

Last edited by dolfan13; 12-30-2012 at 05:06 PM.
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  #153  
Old 12-30-2012, 04:59 PM
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This is exactly how mine operates,EXACTLY.Im starting to think this is normal operation.Any factory info Ive found says normal operating temps are from 85c to 110c.I still agree with SFbay in that its way to hot for life of engine.Im only saying this because BMW would tell us this is within normal operating range and nothing wrong.http://http://www.bawarec.ru/manuals...7er-e65-12.pdf
Total bs, bc I know for sure if everything is good with cooling it should stay at 103 and open at 105 and no bubbles at all. I have a friend with 750 and his temp never gets hotter than 101-103 and very rarely 105. Never ever 110 is allowed unless its desert heat and tstat opened and radiator is not enough.
You think it's normal that at 110C lower hose is cold???? Then why we even have this huge ass radiator for??? It's not being used ever while idling or in traffic, only if you drive fast DME will open it, and if boiler dies you're screwed?

Last edited by SFbay; 12-30-2012 at 05:01 PM.
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  #154  
Old 12-30-2012, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by SFbay View Post
Yeah, either bmw coolant is junk or its actually the only best coolant which can sustain that crazy heat without boiling?? May be that's why my system works bc it's not that hot??
But I still recommend you to replace upper hoses, bc they are connected to the firewall and get too much stretching bc engine vibrates
I think the coolant from BMW is the key.. I started car and water coming from top hose hitting water in expansion tank was bubbling everywhere, I sucked out the expansion tank with pump, and refilled with water three times.. it's still a light blue color so there is still coolant in there but there are no where near as many bubbles forming when the stream hits.. I think this thick coolant junk is messing with us..
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  #155  
Old 12-30-2012, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by cmpcpro View Post
I think the coolant from BMW is the key.. I started car and water coming from top hose hitting water in expansion tank was bubbling everywhere, I sucked out the expansion tank with pump, and refilled with water three times.. it's still a light blue color so there is still coolant in there but there are no where near as many bubbles forming when the stream hits.. I think this thick coolant junk is messing with us..
What kind of temperatures are you getting now?cmpcpro.I wouldnt have thought it was thick enough to make the flow difference I had between 250 rpm but maybe.Ive read quite a bit on coolant mix but came away mostly think 50/50.Im going to try more water.

Last edited by dolfan13; 12-30-2012 at 05:24 PM.
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  #156  
Old 12-30-2012, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by cmpcpro View Post
I think the coolant from BMW is the key.. I started car and water coming from top hose hitting water in expansion tank was bubbling everywhere, I sucked out the expansion tank with pump, and refilled with water three times.. it's still a light blue color so there is still coolant in there but there are no where near as many bubbles forming when the stream hits.. I think this thick coolant junk is messing with us..
Doubt it bc I flushed my system totally and refilled with prestone, and it didn't make a difference. Bmw coolant is not junk, otherwise bmws would not last 5yrs at least
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  #157  
Old 12-30-2012, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by SFbay View Post
Doubt it bc I flushed my system totally and refilled with prestone, and it didn't make a difference. Bmw coolant is not junk, otherwise bmws would not last 5yrs at least
Well, seems system is worse now.. I must have gotten more air in the system because now it's not even opening tstat while driving, hits 107 then opens.. I understand I need to give it time to get the air out, but this doesn't make sense.. I could understand a heater issue, or a heater hose, but not even touching any of that, and I am getting from perfect to not working at all, just by changing the things up front.. to me it seems I am missing something up front..
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  #158  
Old 12-30-2012, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by SFbay View Post
Also you can try to get the air out this way:
Car is cold
Tilt your nose like 20 degrees smth.
Open radiator cap
Disconnect aux water pump-so you know when there is no air in the system
Start your car
Heater on high
Rev it 3-4 times 2000rpm for 20 sex each
Massage upper hose 5-10 times
Check if air is hot while idling

It worked for me for a while, but air will get there anyways soon, so better fix the leak.
Hey SFBay, I am going to try this.. should I have the nose down or up? When you say disconnect aux water pump, you mean power right? Not hoses of course? Massage upper hose means squeeze I take it? Thanks!
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  #159  
Old 12-30-2012, 06:16 PM
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You did add more water .Maybe your boiling even sooner?


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  #160  
Old 12-30-2012, 06:20 PM
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You did add more water .Maybe your boiling even sooner?


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Dont think so, was running way less coolant and more water when it was running almost perfect.
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  #161  
Old 12-30-2012, 06:37 PM
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Hey SFBay, I am going to try this.. should I have the nose down or up? When you say disconnect aux water pump, you mean power right? Not hoses of course? Massage upper hose means squeeze I take it? Thanks!
Yes and yes
Nose is up so air will come out of expansion tank
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  #162  
Old 12-30-2012, 06:52 PM
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Yes and yes
Nose is up so air will come out of expansion tank
Thanks!
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  #163  
Old 12-30-2012, 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by cmpcpro View Post
Hey SFBay, I am going to try this.. should I have the nose down or up? When you say disconnect aux water pump, you mean power right? Not hoses of course? Massage upper hose means squeeze I take it? Thanks!
Disconnect plug and rub the hose
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  #164  
Old 12-30-2012, 07:01 PM
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Disconnect plug and rub the hose
I'll buy the hose a night out if it will fix the problem.. Can't believe I spent $800 and it got worse! Lmao! Just kidding.. All the hoses were breaking apart so they were ready.. I still have one old hose and radiator plus heater hoses.. I am wondering if the heater valves could be an issue too..
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  #165  
Old 12-30-2012, 07:03 PM
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I will be interested in this I will PM you when the times comes (soon)
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  #166  
Old 12-30-2012, 07:07 PM
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I'll buy the hose a night out if it will fix the problem.. Can't believe I spent $800 and it got worse! Lmao! Just kidding.. All the hoses were breaking apart so they were ready.. I still have one old hose and radiator plus heater hoses.. I am wondering if the heater valves could be an issue too..
Dont quote me on this but i think with this tstat and evans npg we might be in the clear for the e65 cooling system altogether no real pressure and lower heat on the n62 will be unbelievable
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  #167  
Old 12-30-2012, 07:13 PM
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Dont quote me on this but i think with this tstat and evans npg we might be in the clear for the e65 cooling system altogether no real pressure and lower heat on the n62 will be unbelievable
Thats what I have been thinking too, but we have to get all the water out.. I drained rad lastnight, then pulled lower hose when I did water pump and more water.. then pulled upper hose and water all over alt, from alt.. thought okay.. then pulled water pump and water everywhere from side of alt.. just wondering how we could get all the water out.. I would do that right away.
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  #168  
Old 12-30-2012, 07:25 PM
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There are drains on the block, leave hoses and run the prep fluid through with the drains open 1 to 2 bottles of prep, then enough npg to fill your system. low pressure low temp for the win
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  #169  
Old 12-30-2012, 07:30 PM
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Thats my hypothesis for n62 cooling, based on sfbays findings and reading around
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  #170  
Old 12-30-2012, 07:48 PM
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Thats what I have been thinking too, but we have to get all the water out.. I drained rad lastnight, then pulled lower hose when I did water pump and more water.. then pulled upper hose and water all over alt, from alt.. thought okay.. then pulled water pump and water everywhere from side of alt.. just wondering how we could get all the water out.. I would do that right away.
No pure water is allowed in 105 system, the more water the more chances it will start boiling. If you install 90-95C even pure water is okay! But you still need to fix the cooling system then install new tstat and coolant but NPG won't fix the leak.
Okay if heater hoses won't fix the problem then it's your valley pan leaking, it's very very common and it leaks from the rear. I saw the leakage on 3 cars already.
So how does it feel 800$ wasted and no results??? sweet?? Imagine 2000$ at dealership? Awesome, right??

Last edited by SFbay; 12-30-2012 at 07:50 PM.
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  #171  
Old 12-30-2012, 09:21 PM
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No pure water is allowed in 105 system, the more water the more chances it will start boiling. If you install 90-95C even pure water is okay! But you still need to fix the cooling system then install new tstat and coolant but NPG won't fix the leak.
Okay if heater hoses won't fix the problem then it's your valley pan leaking, it's very very common and it leaks from the rear. I saw the leakage on 3 cars already.
So how does it feel 800$ wasted and no results??? sweet?? Imagine 2000$ at dealership? Awesome, right??
Lol, well $250 of that went to lower control arms.. but the hoses did break apart when I removed them, so I am sure it was time.. it is a bummer that a brand new system has made it WORSE. But I'll tell you this, I still think the BMW coolant is junk, I may be completely wrong, but so far the more I suck out and replace with distilled water the cooler it's running.. the car will run down to 102 on the freeway and stay there the whole time.. when the car comes to idle is when it goes to hell.. I just can't understand that.. wondering if this radiator is all clogged up.. I shouldn't have returned it and got the arms instead.. I am wondering if doing your 95c tstat will solve issue, I think I have a leak that is only prevelant at high temps.. because it works great until it gets to 105 and sits there.. then it slowly looses.. Have you decided what you want to do on the front of releasing that tstat?
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  #172  
Old 12-30-2012, 11:04 PM
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Lol, well $250 of that went to lower control arms.. but the hoses did break apart when I removed them, so I am sure it was time.. it is a bummer that a brand new system has made it WORSE. But I'll tell you this, I still think the BMW coolant is junk, I may be completely wrong, but so far the more I suck out and replace with distilled water the cooler it's running.. the car will run down to 102 on the freeway and stay there the whole time.. when the car comes to idle is when it goes to hell.. I just can't understand that.. wondering if this radiator is all clogged up.. I shouldn't have returned it and got the arms instead.. I am wondering if doing your 95c tstat will solve issue, I think I have a leak that is only prevelant at high temps.. because it works great until it gets to 105 and sits there.. then it slowly looses.. Have you decided what you want to do on the front of releasing that tstat?
Well I don't have any extra tstat yet, I'm working on 85C now. But definitely the hotter it gets the more leak you get.
If you're not lazy- replace valley pan, you'll see that it's leaking from the rear. Only you need to remove intake, not a biggie
My car runs okay, but I still think I have valley pan issue, if I keep loosing coolant then I'll replace it as well!! Not bc I wanna fix it, but now bc it's curiosity issue
My story with my car: one day I got low coolant warning- so I added like half quart, thinking it was ok, bc I replaced radiator recently, but looks like leaky lower part radiator "helped" to keep pressure low so valley pan gasket wasn't leaking! The problem is if you've got a leak (valley pan) pretty high, it will be sucking air, so lower part leak is much better than upper one)) so and then I noticed my fan is not kicking in anymore.
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  #173  
Old 12-31-2012, 12:31 AM
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Well I don't have any extra tstat yet, I'm working on 85C now. But definitely the hotter it gets the more leak you get.
If you're not lazy- replace valley pan, you'll see that it's leaking from the rear. Only you need to remove intake, not a biggie
My car runs okay, but I still think I have valley pan issue, if I keep loosing coolant then I'll replace it as well!! Not bc I wanna fix it, but now bc it's curiosity issue
My story with my car: one day I got low coolant warning- so I added like half quart, thinking it was ok, bc I replaced radiator recently, but looks like leaky lower part radiator "helped" to keep pressure low so valley pan gasket wasn't leaking! The problem is if you've got a leak (valley pan) pretty high, it will be sucking air, so lower part leak is much better than upper one)) so and then I noticed my fan is not kicking in anymore.
Oh crap! Sorry to hear man.. I thought fan was working good, just stopped now? Doh What throws me off is I can get it perfect, it seems to change everytime I fill system and coolant water percentage.. I am going to do what I did the first time and use a small amount of coolant and the rest water and see if it changes, then we'll know if the coolant has some say so in this.
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  #174  
Old 12-31-2012, 09:59 AM
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Oh crap! Sorry to hear man.. I thought fan was working good, just stopped now? Doh What throws me off is I can get it perfect, it seems to change everytime I fill system and coolant water percentage.. I am going to do what I did the first time and use a small amount of coolant and the rest water and see if it changes, then we'll know if the coolant has some say so in this.
It has nothing to do with coolant....
Just one time you get less air and another time more. You have to understand that self bleeding is not working once you've got a leak somewhere.
As a preventative maintenance replace that valley pan.
Do you have heat without aux water pump while idling, or it's just a little warm and gets really hot once you rev the engine??

Last edited by SFbay; 12-31-2012 at 10:04 AM.
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  #175  
Old 12-31-2012, 10:59 AM
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It has nothing to do with coolant....
Just one time you get less air and another time more. You have to understand that self bleeding is not working once you've got a leak somewhere.
As a preventative maintenance replace that valley pan.
Do you have heat without aux water pump while idling, or it's just a little warm and gets really hot once you rev the engine??
What is this an indicator of?air? Ive been taking notes on all if this cooling system's mess. For the longest time i thought coolant pipe was the cooling systems flaw. Low and behold it is really the temperature and pressure it operates at all along that is the basis of the leakiest car i have ever owned.
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