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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E36 (1991 - 1999)

E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #51  
Old 09-08-2012, 07:24 PM
nycx nycx is offline
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**** yea
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  #52  
Old 10-18-2012, 11:07 AM
kng9nothing kng9nothing is offline
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Thumbs up

Great information! I just bought a 93 325i that is far from stock, but a majority of this information is still very useful to a guy who has finally bought non domestic.
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  #53  
Old 12-21-2012, 06:44 AM
hnaz hnaz is online now
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Mein Auto: 328i, M3, 325is M-Tech
Quote:
Originally Posted by FenderBender View Post
The oil pump nut is not common at all. If you have your engine apart, wire tie it, or weld it, if not, don't worry about it.
^Finally!

Sorry, I usually lurk on the forums, but finally someone posts something about this. Getting tired of people saying "IT WILL HAPPEN AFTER XXXXXXX MILES!!" Not saying it doesn't happen, but even track guys will very rarely experience this.
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  #54  
Old 12-24-2012, 01:06 PM
M20_FrEAk M20_FrEAk is offline
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Mein Auto: 1993 325IS, 1989 F-150
great write up, lots of good pictures too. and definetly listen to chadley about pelican parts, customer service is great
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  #55  
Old 12-24-2012, 01:47 PM
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drive by72 drive by72 is offline
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Mein Auto: 3 series
dont listen to Ryan though ^

he broke a motor mount, twice... in one week... doing the same thing...
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RIP Ben "Jever" Doebele, we wont forget you

Please, call me Chadley

1997 328iS... HR coilovers, Brembo F40 calipers, camber plates, it needs a CUMMINS!!

1990-somethin Chevy K3500... Cummins, cab swap, 5 speed, and lots of motor work. 20 MPG, 40 PSI, 507 ft/lbs torque
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  #56  
Old 12-24-2012, 04:28 PM
M20_FrEAk M20_FrEAk is offline
dirt3
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Mein Auto: 1993 325IS, 1989 F-150
they were some good brake stands though.....****
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GFY- nuff said
drive in the snow with bald tires they said, it will be fun...they said
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  #57  
Old 12-30-2012, 10:09 PM
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drive by72 drive by72 is offline
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K whateva bro. Get yer ass in OT.
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RIP Ben "Jever" Doebele, we wont forget you

Please, call me Chadley

1997 328iS... HR coilovers, Brembo F40 calipers, camber plates, it needs a CUMMINS!!

1990-somethin Chevy K3500... Cummins, cab swap, 5 speed, and lots of motor work. 20 MPG, 40 PSI, 507 ft/lbs torque
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  #58  
Old 12-31-2012, 06:44 AM
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dc_wright dc_wright is online now
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Mein Auto: '96 328iC, '04 325Ci
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonesin View Post
For 'Verts, these should help. As for what to look for specifically, I've never owned one, so I couldn't say. Hopefully one of our "Vert Guru's will chime in here.

Ed
Don't buy a vert with a top that isn't flawlessy functional and in good condition without extracting a significant price concession from the seller. The list below provides typical failures of the BMW vert top and some reference repair costs as examples. Labor rates vary significantly geographically so you should get a local quote to make an informed decision. My figures provided are intended to either put your mind at ease or scare the crap out of you and some sense into you BEFORE you make your purchase decision.

Typical faults and costs to repair:

Center of top interferes with storage compartment lid while opening or closing - Needs gas struts replaced. Parts are about $130 and it's about a one hour job and fairly easy DIY. Dealer will charge about $500.

Forward edge of storage compartment lid contacts or jams against the driver side base of the top frame - The tension straps that pull the rear most bow of the top up are shot. Many have successfully made a kluge fix with bungee cord or surgical tubing for less than $20. Tension strap replacement requires removal of the top so look at $1,500 to $2,000 at the dealer for just the strap replacement due to the amount of labor required.

Rear window cracked or badly yellowed/fogged - If it's an OEM top the window can be zipped out and replaced. OEM replacement window is about $500 but aftermarket can be purchased for about $200 and it's not a hard DIY if you've got a helper.

Top canvas has holes, seams are splitting open, or seam thread is breaking down - Means it's top replacement time. After market tops can be purchased for about $500 but add another $500 for tension straps, bat wings, and lacing cord kit. It's possible to do it yourself but it's time consuming. After market installation of a top. tension straps, and required hardware is $2,500 - $3,000 drive out.

Semi automatic top not moving when control button is pressed - Can be as simple as a microswitch needing adjustment or replacement ($50 DIY -$300-$500 Dealer) or a defective top drive motor or controller which are in the $1,000 ea to have replaced.

Fully automatic top not moving when control button is pressed - Everything for the semiautomatic top plus add broken drive shafts for the front latching mechanism ($$ unknown) or a bad forward drive motor ($$ unknown)
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  #59  
Old 03-01-2013, 06:53 PM
7ate9 7ate9 is offline
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VERY GOOD. Thinking of buying an M3/Non-M3 : this helped out
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  #60  
Old 03-22-2013, 12:48 PM
Bones_1904 Bones_1904 is offline
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Great Thread.. I will check the rear shock towers this weekend.
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Last edited by Bones_1904; 03-22-2013 at 01:00 PM.
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  #61  
Old 06-25-2013, 05:16 PM
euge328 euge328 is offline
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Anybody have e36 that is running great after 300k miles??
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  #62  
Old 06-27-2013, 02:12 PM
ranman3113 ranman3113 is offline
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Re: Buying an E36?

My e36 has 230,000 and it still runs like a champ, bought it w 150,000 and jus scheduled maintenance.
BTW great write up ed!

Sent from my LG-LS970 using BimmerApp mobile app
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  #63  
Old 06-28-2013, 09:06 AM
euge328 euge328 is offline
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Mein Auto: 1996 BMW 328i Convertible
Glad to here your baby is running great at 230k miles. I hope whoever may inherit my car understands and appreciates the craftsmanship.
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  #64  
Old 07-03-2013, 08:39 AM
John@SAtlBMW John@SAtlBMW is offline
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Thanks for bringing this topic back up.

I shared it on our dealership fb page - I hope it can be seen by some interested parties. Helps to have good resources for those buying such a classic.
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  #65  
Old 07-03-2013, 12:56 PM
euge328 euge328 is offline
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CLASSIC is the word indeed. The e36 is timeless.
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  #66  
Old 07-21-2013, 01:55 AM
JFIVE JFIVE is online now
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Re: Buying an E36?

I was getting ready to buy an e36 328
For my son that needed some work at a steal (craigslist)
After reading this write up I have a better idea what to look for before I buy a Break My Wallet
As a BMW owner and fanatic this really helps out greatly because there are different things to look out for on the different models
Thanks

Sent from BimmerApp mobile app
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  #67  
Old 07-23-2013, 02:53 AM
Rhyswill Rhyswill is offline
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Mein Auto: 325i E36 Coupe
K&n

I have a 93' 325i and was wandering if installing a K&N air filter is a straight forward procedure?

Remove old filter box ---- install K&N - Job done....?
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  #68  
Old 07-23-2013, 10:52 AM
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TheFinanceGuy TheFinanceGuy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rhyswill View Post
I have a 93' 325i and was wandering if installing a K&N air filter is a straight forward procedure?

Remove old filter box ---- install K&N - Job done....?
Wrong thread to post this in- but yes, its that simple.
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  #69  
Old 07-24-2013, 03:43 AM
Rhyswill Rhyswill is offline
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Thanks..

Last edited by Rhyswill; 07-24-2013 at 03:44 AM.
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  #70  
Old 07-26-2013, 05:02 AM
strangedaddy strangedaddy is offline
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Mein Auto: 1994 BMW 325i
Great sticky Jonesin! I have a '94 325i that has been as fun to tinker with as it is to drive. I love how the designers of this car put it together so that it could be easily worked on and maintained. I have never owned a car that has been more cooperative to work with. I am looking at buying a newer model ('05-09) and giving this one to my son. Hope they haven't changed the ideology of BMW cars too much since the mid 90s.
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  #71  
Old 07-26-2013, 12:47 PM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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Mein Auto: 1995 318is / 1993 325is
Stay with older than that if you intend on DIYing. They got pretty much impossible to do any substantial work on (engine/electronics) at home after about 2003. They've become computer-nannied to death.
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Ken Kanne, Silverhill, AL, E36 Forum Mod/Craigslist addict/Hoarder of all sorts of stuff
BMW-CCA #441426
1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"
HAVE I HAD MY MEDS YET?

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  #72  
Old 07-26-2013, 03:10 PM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by strangedaddy View Post
Hope they haven't changed the ideology of BMW cars too much since the mid 90s.
Heh, you're in for a rude awakening...
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1966 Pontiac GTO
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For sale: E30/E36 front sway links
For sale: OEM E36 328 catback
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  #73  
Old 12-20-2013, 04:56 PM
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mksu19 mksu19 is offline
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Mein Auto: '05 325it / '01 Audi S4
Quick q's for the e36 gurus.

1. Aside the usual suspects, what else should I look for in a car with roughly 180k miles on it? I know I should just go ahead and replace all the maintenance items such as cooling system components, fluids, coil packs, bushings, etc. because that is a given regardless of what the past owner claims he/she had replaced him/herself.

2. While a 14+ year old car will never be as good as they were off the assy line, they can be made to perform better even with cheaper aftermarket parts. Since I am going to replace the shocks/struts with "street only" coilovers (going for Raceland Ultimos for cost reasons), can anyone tell me what else I should change/refresh while the wheels are off?

I know I sound like a noob right now so please bare with me. I did just come back to the e36 scene from my e46 and Audi hiatus. Thanks everyone have happy motoring!
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  #74  
Old 01-24-2014, 09:10 AM
Aaron2000e46 Aaron2000e46 is offline
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Mein Auto: 2000 323ci
I'm looking at trading my 2000 323ci 186xxx miles for a 1995 318i 225xxx. I prefer the e36 body but want to know if a straight trade would be ripping me off. Should I do the trade?
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  #75  
Old 01-24-2014, 09:18 AM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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Mein Auto: 1995 318is / 1993 325is
That all depends on condition. If your 2000 is a ragged-out wreck and the '95 318 is really nice, it's a good trade. If both are average condition, they'd owe you some money.
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Quotes to live by:
guessing gets expensive...drivinfaster
nothing is more expensive than a cheap BMW...c4harpe13

Ken Kanne, Silverhill, AL, E36 Forum Mod/Craigslist addict/Hoarder of all sorts of stuff
BMW-CCA #441426
1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"
HAVE I HAD MY MEDS YET?

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