Welcome to Bimmerfest -- The #1 Online Community for BMW related information! Please enjoy the discussion forums below and share your experiences with the 200,000 current, new and past BMW owners. The forums are broken out by car model and into other special interest sections such as BMW European Delivery and a special forum to voice your questions to the many BMW dealers on the site to assist our members!

Please follow the links below to help get you started!

Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #76  
Old 01-04-2013, 12:02 PM
Studawg's Avatar
Studawg Studawg is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: SC
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 259
Mein Auto: 2003 540iT M Sport
Wait wait wait wait a minute, back up. You mean to tell me bluebee is a she???

Page 4

Last edited by Studawg; 01-04-2013 at 12:04 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #77  
Old 02-09-2013, 01:21 AM
bluebee's Avatar
bluebee bluebee is offline
Seek to understand,^Value
Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 25,236
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
For the crosslinked record, there is some information for those who try the key and fail (due to not turning it enough) in this thread today:
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwman47 View Post
My son left his 1998 528 stand several days
with a dead battery. Tonight we could not even open the doors or trunk. Any ideas what we should do besides calling a locksmith.?
EDIT: Bringing over some of the knowledge from that thread to keep it all together for the next person to benefit.
Quote:
Originally Posted by QSilver7 View Post
I still don't get it...if you have a key...you can open the trunk or the door manually. The probability of both the trunk AND the door not opening manually is rare. If you can open either one...then there's no need to jack up the car. If you can open the door manually, then you can also open the hood once the door is open and apply cables to the jump start location in the hood which will give you enough power to electrically open the trunk and other doors.

If the driver's door can't be opened manually after inserting the key and turning (or lubricating the lock cylinder if it is seized from non use)...then the trunk can be manually opened and jumper cables applied to the battery...which will supply enough power to use the remote key to unlock the car doors.


(driver's door w/key turned 90 degrees counter-clockwise to the MANUAL UNLOCK position)




(electronic actuation @ 45 degrees...manual actuation @ 90 degrees)





If your door and trunk lock cylinder do NOT turn 90 degrees right/left...then for GAWD sake...take the time to lubricate them so that they work properly!! A can of lubricant with a "straw"...insert the straw into the lock cylinder and a couple of squirts should do the job.


Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
1+,

Follow QSilver instructions.

However, if that fails...This is a little known secret, on the driver's side chassis, if you crawl from underneath looking upward, there is a Positive Post that feeds the Starter Motor.

In desperate situation, one can apply some voltage to open doors by using appropriate alligator clips wire:
- One clip goes to this Positive Post.
- Another Clip goes to Transmission Housing or any ground
(Just make sure you don't short the wires).
- Then connect both wires to a donor car's battery (any car with 12V battery).
- Lift the LF wheel up and rest in on some wood ramps.
Or you can use jackstand.
- Crawl underneath, you will see the red post, where the wire feeding the starter motor comes from.

Now you can use your key remote to open the door.


Quote:
Originally Posted by occhis View Post
What they are trying to tell you is that no electricity is needed to unlock with the key manually. With the key in the door lock, turn the key counter clockwise. You will encounter some resistance but keep turning (about 90 degrees) and that manual action will push the lock button on the door up, thereby allowing you to open the door.
__________________
Please read the suggested threads and add value, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 02-09-2013 at 03:29 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #78  
Old 04-01-2013, 10:17 PM
bluebee's Avatar
bluebee bluebee is offline
Seek to understand,^Value
Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 25,236
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
For the record, this was posted today:
Quote:
Originally Posted by *****zo View Post
cliff notes below.

I have a new to me 530i I put in storage back in November. Prior to storing the car, I did the usual winterizing including lubricating the door locks. I also disconnected the battery since the car would not be driving for another 6 months. I believe I locked the car remotely then disconnected the battery.

Fast forward 3 months later, and it was time to go check on the car. I put the key in the door lock and tried to turn counter clockwise but the key would not barge. I tried the key on the trunk lock and had the same result. It felt as though I would break the key within the lock cylinder if I applied more force . This was back in January so I concluded the lock was frozen. After all, the car was stored in an unheated garage and the temp at the time was below 10F. I figured I would return when it warmed up.

Yesterday it was ~40F so I figured I would go check on the car. Once again, I tried to open the door and trunk but yet again the locks would not barge. At that time I resulted to searching the forums and found there were several people who had ran into a similar situation. It appeared, I had to somehow supply 12 volts to the car in order to unlock the doors. One member on here suggested supplying 12 volts to the foglight lead then using the remote to open the doors. I used a small 12V battery with a fuse on it and was able to open the doors remotely within 5 minutes.

This allowed access into the car but did not solve the issue with the cylinder locks. I tried to lubricate the door and trunk lock while turning but was still unsuccessful. Finally, out of frustration, I pushed the key into the lock as far as it would go then turned. To my surprise the cylinder turned very smoothly to the 45 and 90 degree position. I tried the same approach at the trunk lock and was able to turn it easily. I came to the conclusion that my issue was as a result of a bent key blade. I'm not sure how the previous owner got it this bad.

Below are pictures comparing a brand new key to the old bent key.


Cliff notes: If you cannot unlock your door manually, ensure the key is inserted all the way into the cylinder lock. You may need to apply some force to get it all the way into the cylinder lock.
__________________
Please read the suggested threads and add value, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
Reply With Quote
  #79  
Old 06-20-2014, 04:50 PM
bluebee's Avatar
bluebee bluebee is offline
Seek to understand,^Value
Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 25,236
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Another one today ...
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Master Key won't open trunk.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mfitton View Post
Hey guys,
So I haven't been able to open the trunk of my 2001 530i for a few hours now. From what I've gathered looking around, it somehow got into valet mode (maybe I was trying to lock it?), so now I can't open the trunk electronically. I tried opening it manually with the key, but the key won't open the trunk. It's sometimes difficult for me to unlock and lock the doors anyway with the key--my remote doesn't work. I'm really starting to feel like I bought someone else's burden because every single piece of this car seems to be breaking.

Anyway, I went to see my mechanic, and he said the key looked chewed up and like it's in bad condition. He suggested I go to a business that specializes in automotive keys and locks when it opens tomorrow. My real question, I guess, is whether there is anything I've missed, and what options I have. Where can I get another authentic key? Do I have to replace all the locks in the car? Do you think that I'd be able to unlock the trunk if I greased up the key and lock?

I'm kind of lost, and this fix is taking priority, because a few of the electrical issues I need to fix require trunk access.
Thanks in advance.
__________________
Please read the suggested threads and add value, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 06-20-2014 at 10:17 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #80  
Old 11-28-2014, 12:00 AM
bluebee's Avatar
bluebee bluebee is offline
Seek to understand,^Value
Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 25,236
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
For the crosslinked record, this classic question was asked today over here and answered in classic form:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Question about battery removal

Quote:
Originally Posted by BashE39 View Post
So i wanna take out my battery from the trunk of my e39 and let it charge for overnight.
Now how can you open the trunk to place back the battery if there aint no power in your car??
Quote:
Originally Posted by HolyToledo View Post
use the key.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BashE39 View Post
Damnnn haha I never noticed the key hole on the trunk..
Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
You can charge the battery in situ, w/o the need to remove it from the trunk.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HTK12 View Post
If you can get power to the car, just plug in the charger. I've done it countless times, in fact I the battery tender hooked right now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by E39Hoon View Post
You can also charge from under the hood, but I prefer right at the battery.
Quote:
Originally Posted by edjack View Post
In any event, wait 16 min before disconnecting the battery: The trunk light will go out. Otherwise, you run the risk of scrambling one or more electronic modules.
Charge it in place.
See also:
- How to open the trunk when you have a dead battery (1) * what are the complete steps for the elusive "BMW battery reset" procedure (1) (2) (3) & 16-minute timeout warning (1)
__________________
Please read the suggested threads and add value, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
Reply With Quote
  #81  
Old 12-22-2014, 07:50 PM
bluebee's Avatar
bluebee bluebee is offline
Seek to understand,^Value
Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 25,236
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Another one today ...
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > battery dead -cant get into trunk -help

Quote:
Originally Posted by #12bmw View Post
i have a 97 528i , and the battery is almost dead, cant get the trunk open to get to the battery. the trunk will not open with the key...it turns, but doesnt un-gage the lock. i heard that jumping the bmw's via cables is not good for the electrical. the only way i can think to get the car charged enough to start or open the lock is to connect a battery charger to the hot wire on the alternator, and let it charge for a bit.
question is....has anyone run into this issue...and how did u resolve it.....
and
putting the battery charger on the alternator hot wire....safe ?

thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by QSilver7 View Post
If you've never maintained your lock cylinders...you may need to lubricate them (trunk & driver's door) so that they can be turned to the manual unlock position.




Ditto as far as hooking up a battery charger or even jumper cables to the terminals in the engine bay...this will provide enough juice to get the electronic central locking system to engage...in fact a 9 volt battery is usually enough to get the job done. Just make sure you use the correct terminals...there's a positive terminal as wellas a negative hex bolt designed for giving power to the car without having to hook up directly to the battery.



(if BMW didn't want you to jump start the car...why would they put the info below in the owners manual?)


__________________
Please read the suggested threads and add value, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
Reply With Quote
  #82  
Old 01-11-2015, 07:56 AM
bluebee's Avatar
bluebee bluebee is offline
Seek to understand,^Value
Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 25,236
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Another one today...
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > battery dead, trunk won't open - HELP!
__________________
Please read the suggested threads and add value, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
Reply With Quote
  #83  
Old 06-01-2015, 12:16 PM
bluebee's Avatar
bluebee bluebee is offline
Seek to understand,^Value
Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 25,236
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
The question came up again today ...
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Trunk shut no battery cannot open

Quote:
Originally Posted by California997 View Post
This is my first post and i need advice from the experts. After pulling my dead battery out of my 1997 e39 i shut the trunk to pick up a new battery at the store. BIG MISTAKE. I cannot open the trunk. Fortunately the car is unlocked and i could open the hood. Tried attaching new battery to the jump bolts but that did not work. I am able to see into trunk through ski slot. No emergency pull cord to open trunk in this model. Any other suggestions. It seems like the lock smiths do not want to have anything to do with getting into trunk once they learn no battery. Any other suggestions? Thanks
See also:
- How to turn the key in the ignition hard enough to unlock the steering wheel to start the engine (1) (2) & how to open the trunk lock without using the remote key by manually twisting the key in the keyhole with enough force to open the trunk (1) (2) & how to open the touring tailgate lock when there is a power failure (1) & how to open the drivers door using the key when the door is double locked (1) & how to open the hood when you have a dead battery (1) & how to open the passenger door when the bowden cable is broken (1) (2) & how to open the doors from the inside when they are locked using the key from the outside (1)
__________________
Please read the suggested threads and add value, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
Reply With Quote
  #84  
Old 06-25-2015, 07:05 AM
bluebee's Avatar
bluebee bluebee is offline
Seek to understand,^Value
Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 25,236
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
I'm cross referencing a related resurrected thread that has nice information from Saint Q over here today ...

> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Ever Locked Somebody In Your E39?
Quote:
Originally Posted by QSilver7 View Post
That's not actually correct...it really is the interior motion sensor (IMS) that activates the alarm siren when you double-lock someone in the vehicle. You can sit in the car and activate double-lock by locking the car with your remote...then activate any electronics in the car and you'll see nothing happens. But if you wait 30 seconds after double-locking the car...as soon as you move...the alarm will go off.

BTW...BMW did redesign the central locking system after decades of it's institutionalized "double-locking" system...starting with the 2000 model year...there is a procedure that allows passengers inside the vehicle to unlock the doors if they have been double-locked:
  1. press the central lock/unlock button on the center console, then
  2. pull twice on an interior door handle

The interior motion sensor (there's 2 types depending on build date) & tilt sensor have a delayed 30 second activation after the doors have been locked from the exterior of the car (manually or by remote). When movement in the interior of the car is detected 30 seconds after the vehicle has been double-locked...the alarm and lights will sound off.

Although your friend thought that pulling the sun visor down initiated the alarm...it was actually their movement that caused the alarm. The DWA (anti-theft alarm siren system) has specific monitors that will activate the alarm...and "electrical components" are not any of them. The DWA monitors are the IMS/Tilt/doors/trunk/hood:

(owners manual mentions not to lock animals and people inside the car...let them lock the car from inside by using the door lock pins, or the central locking button on the center console...this only "single-locks" the vehicle and doesn't arm the DWA system)





(first iteration of IMS)



(2nd iteration of IMS)

Quote:
Originally Posted by QSilver7 View Post
1. In the same section from the owner manual (read all the text highlighted in yellow that was posted above)...persons left in the vehicle can obviously lock the vehicle from inside which prevents arming DWA. If you're leaving a pet inside the vehicle...then you press the remote lock button TWICE...or turn the key in the door lock cylinder twice...this DISABLES the IMS & Tilt sensors...and is mentioned in the pic above taken from the owners manual.

2. The central locking button on the center console was designed to only SINGLE-LOCK the vehicle...thus it DOES NOT arm the DWA system. It was designed this way so that occupants can remain safely inside the vehicle when refueling at stations that have attendants...because single-lock doesn't lock the fuel filler flap door nor arm the DWA system...whereas if you double-lock (using the remote or door lock cylinder)...the fuel filler flap door locks along with the doors and trunk.

The only way that the center console's central locking button sets off the alarm is if you have the newer set-up (actual double-lock escape feature) & the alarm has been set (which requires locking the vehicle with the remote or from outside). Perhaps pleiades can comment if his kid pressed the central unlock button BEFORE the 30 seconds period...thus the alarm went off because a door actuator (which is a DWA monitor) registered without the proper unlock procedure. If his kid had waited longer than 30 seconds...then the alarm should have went off due to movement first.

3. I have no way to attest for this...but you can check for yourself. Roll down at least one window...then lock the vehicle from outside using your remote key or driver's door lock cylinder. This will place the car into double-lock...and 30 seconds after locking, the interior motion sensor will be activated. Try waving your arm around in the interior prior to 30 seconds...and after 30 seconds. Report back when the alarm went off.

4. As mentioned in the info above about the IMS...the sensitivity of the IMS was so that anything LARGER than a BUMBLEBEE should set off the alarm...so if that leaf was larger than a bumblebee...and took it's time floating to it's final resting place...it would be enough to set off the alarm. This again, is one of the things listed in the owners manual as to why the IMS/tilt sensors should be DISABLED...if you leave windows or the sunroof open.



I'm not sure...the BMW info I have only mentions the year 2000 as to the change in double-lock...see the info below. I know that the 1999 e38 model year was truncated (very short) and only ran from September 1998- March 1999 (in the USA). And the e39 had an elongated 2000 model year which started in June 1999 instead of September 1999. Since the e38 & e39 share so many things...perhaps this April 1999 central locking change occurred for the e39s a few months early.


See also:
- How to turn the key in the ignition hard enough to unlock the steering wheel to start the engine (1) (2) & how to open the trunk lock without using the remote key by manually twisting the key in the keyhole with enough force to open the trunk (1) (2) & how to open the touring tailgate lock when there is a power failure (1) & how to open the hood when you have a dead battery (1) & how to open the passenger door when the bowden cable is broken (1) (2) & how to open the doors from the inside when they are locked using the key from the outside (1) & how to open the drivers door using the key when the door is double locked (1) & what to do if your child or pet is double locked inside your E39 and they want to open the door from inside without the key (1)
__________________
Please read the suggested threads and add value, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Forum Navigation
Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)
Today's Posts Search
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On



Forum Jump


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 01:04 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2015, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
© 2001-2015 performanceIX, Inc. All Rights Reserved .: guidelines .:. privacy .:. terms