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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E30 (1982 - 1993)

E30 (1982 - 1993)
God's Chariot. The E30 was produced primarily from 1982 through 1991. The cabriolet was the one exception which was produced through 1993.

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  #76  
Old 01-04-2013, 07:37 PM
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Which temp switch is that?

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  #77  
Old 01-04-2013, 07:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by First time View Post
The temp switch that Is being mentioned is located closest to the FPR and closet to the valve cover (yellowish looking) here are the resistance values:

14 +/- 2 degrees F: 7000-11600 ohms
68 +/- 2 degrees F: 2100-2900 ohms
176 +/- 2 degrees F: 270-400 ohms
^This. The one First time is talking about, closest to the fuel pressure regulator.
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  #78  
Old 01-04-2013, 07:55 PM
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Sounds like a vacuum leak.
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  #79  
Old 01-04-2013, 08:17 PM
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Well seing as he said the idle is the ony issue now i am going to rule out a vacuum leak. The idle varies he states so its not plausible that a vacuum leak would appear then disappear at will. Something else is playing up.
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  #80  
Old 01-04-2013, 08:17 PM
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And your certain the AFM you recieved is still within spec?
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  #81  
Old 01-04-2013, 08:38 PM
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I can swap another in but I did that before the new iac with no change.



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  #82  
Old 01-04-2013, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by FenderBender View Post
I can swap another in but I did that before the new iac with no change.



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So you have tested the temp switch already?
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  #83  
Old 01-04-2013, 09:33 PM
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No I was talking about the afm.

I put a brand new temp switch in just a few months ago though. I'll see if I can test it tomorrow.

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  #84  
Old 01-04-2013, 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by FenderBender View Post
No I was talking about the afm.

I put a brand new temp switch in just a few months ago though. I'll see if I can test it tomorrow.

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Oh ok well i suppose checking the temp switch would hurt as sometimes new units can be defective.

However about the afm, not to take away from the sellers statement of it working fine. It is old just like yours and would hurt to test it also.

On the fuel side of things there are a few different sensors and switches that make all the magic happen. Troubleshooting, while tedious work, can be enlightening.
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  #85  
Old 01-04-2013, 09:41 PM
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The afm testing is inconclusive. Both tested exactly the same. Car is running pretty good. Another member said he bought a refurbished one that tested just like mine and his car doesn't have any issues.

Ugh

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  #86  
Old 01-04-2013, 11:08 PM
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How are you testing it other than plugging it in?
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  #87  
Old 01-05-2013, 06:25 AM
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I have a video of it in this thread I think. Looking for a slow rising of resistance by opening the door slowly. Neither of them have a slow steady rise they are jumpy. But like I said another guy told me his refurbished unit did the same thing.

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Last edited by FenderBender; 01-05-2013 at 06:26 AM.
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  #88  
Old 01-05-2013, 06:38 AM
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How does the engine respond when you press the throttle? Do the RPM's dip any or bounce when you let off and it settles?

I still think it's getting un-metered air and hitting it's adaptation limits. Ie vac leak, if it's large enough you can remove the oil cap when running and it won;t change a thing. Sealed up crankcase will choke and die if you pull the cap off.
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  #89  
Old 01-05-2013, 09:49 AM
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Ahh ok sorry i didnt look at the video. My afm did the same thing upon testing it. I too have a '84 318i. However my car idles around 900. I have not set timing to spec though so that's my excuse. My car idles perfect at 900 no bouncing at all.

I luckily had two M10's laying around to pick parts from. I have replaced the cap and rotor, plugs and wires, O2 sensor, fresh oil and filter, new coolant temp switch.

My car runs decent (i have never heard of these M10's running perfectly)
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  #90  
Old 01-05-2013, 09:51 AM
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Swiss could be right about a very small amount of air. Check the oil cap and the oil dipstick for leaks. Maybe you can push down on them while the engine is running and give the engine a rev or two and see how it settles again.
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  #91  
Old 01-05-2013, 04:49 PM
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Alright, well I fiddled a little with the car today. While running, I unplugged the coolant temp gauge (almost brand new) and it idled way down, almost died but not quite. I would believe that that means I have no major vac leaks.


Plugged it back in and the idle went right back up. Then I unhooked the AFM and it all but died, then plugged it back in a the idle was good then.

Maybe I should unhook the battery and let everything reset



I had a VCG laying around so I decided to powder my valve cover, came out pretty nice I think.









Wrinkle red was the color choice. First wrinkle I've done. You can see the oil cap came out differently than the valve cover. Different metals?



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  #92  
Old 01-05-2013, 08:50 PM
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Looks good. Albeit very bright. I noticed you still have the fuel damper on the line running towards the fpr. I did away with that stupid thing.
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  #93  
Old 01-05-2013, 08:51 PM
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What rpm does your car idle at? And is it still bouncing around or is it a steady but high idle?
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  #94  
Old 01-05-2013, 09:18 PM
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What does that piece do?

The last time I started it after I fiddled with it the idle was around 850 rpm.

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  #95  
Old 01-06-2013, 01:57 AM
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That thing just corrects the differences in the fuel pressure. There is one on the outlet side of the high pressure fuel pump too. Seeing as the lift pump (in tank) is a high volume low pressure pump and the other pump (chassis mounted) is a high pressure low volume pump the dampers are placed in order to keep fuel flow and pressure under control and have it at somewhat of an equilibrium if you will. But thats what the FPR is placed for. I have removed mine (most have) because they can become clogged with debris. Havent had any issues since. This was three years ago.
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  #96  
Old 01-06-2013, 06:35 PM
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What did you do, just remove it and insert a long tube with clamps or replace the whole line? My whole fuel system is new, has the newer style E30 fuel pump, deleted the secondary one.



Should I get this??

http://reading.craigslist.org/cto/3522643622.html
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  #97  
Old 01-06-2013, 06:48 PM
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Yes i replaced the entire line. That 325i looks like it has a nice interior and somewhat nice body. Looks like some rust on the quarters (luckily i live in cali so i dont have to deal with rust)

However he doesnt say what is leaking. Idk the condition of your car but if your looking for mpg then just stick with the 318i.
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  #98  
Old 01-06-2013, 06:51 PM
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I'd be keeping the 318 for a while, I want a 4 door eventually though.
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  #99  
Old 01-06-2013, 06:56 PM
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4 door would get a stick and an M52 most likely.
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  #100  
Old 01-09-2013, 07:15 PM
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I think I may have figured at least one issue out. I was fiddling with the car, check the TPS (PITA, couldn't really tell if it was ok or not) and checking for vac leaks. I hear a slight hissing noise near the firewall all the time but I can't seem to pin point it. Anyway I was moving wires around, and the fuel return line when the idle started changing. So I moved the return line and sure enough, changed the idle, if I move it a certain way, it will die. If I move it another way, it will idle right at 700 rpm. Part of the line is almost rock solid.


So tomorrow I'll replace that whole line and see what happens.
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