OBD Pinouts: If you have starting problems and your ignition key apparatus is suspect

...then take a look at this :

http://pinoutsguide.com/CarElectroni...g_pinout.shtml

Jump pins 14 and 11, and the engine will start without the key. Pins 14 and 11 are not listed in the diagram but are easy to figure out from the sequence of numbers.

This bypasses the entire key assembly. I've read that some cars do not activate the starter properly due to ignition switch problems etc and you need to jiggle the key this way and that to get a strong enough crank. This method bypasses that altogether.

Take note....insert the wire into pin 14 first (for the battery) and then pin 11 (starter). Do it the other way and the likelihood of a spark is much higher. You've got 200 amps running through that wire, remember.

Do not use something like a safety pin etc. Use as thick an insulated a wire as you can find that would fit into those ports.

Don't be fazed by any sparks, and the unnaturalness of the car starting without a key. Just jam it in. Yank it out once the engine catches.

Please, do go out and try this on your car right away. Muscle memory is very useful.

That diagram is probably useful for other things as well. I strongly advise everyone to print it out and keep a copy in the glove compartment and another one clipped to your copy of the bently manual and its troubleshooting tables, for easy reference.

Please also save that link and archive that page separately. I have.

Those who have other cars can find the appropriate diagrams from the main page as well. Please circulate to those who may need this.


cheers,
Roberto GS

It would be very interesting to see if this would work on a working EWS2 system. Could someone try that out ? Theoretically, it should work as the ews2 silver label ecu would not have received authentication from the key, but who knows ? It could be a valid bypass for emergencies.

Other permutations may be possible.

But all that does is supply power to the starter motor and nothing else. Am I right?

I use this with a pushbutton when adjusting the valves because I know the engine will not "catch". It will only turn over.

there isn't 200Amps going through that wire,
the likelyhood of cooking somethings is high.
furthermore it wont make any difference if you connect pin 14 before 11 or vise versa it its going to spark its going to spark, a better/safer solution would be to wire in a switch of some kind and use that to close the circuit
and overall its designed as a diagnostic port, not to be used to actually start the vehicle.

also posting this material onto the internet only helps car thieves.

/thread

Originally Posted by paperplane94

But all that does is supply power to the starter motor and nothing else. Am I right?

I use this with a pushbutton when adjusting the valves because I know the engine will not "catch". It will only turn over.

+1

My thinking is that the key would still have to be in position 2. I guess this could work if the ignition tumbler would go to position 2, but not to position 3

Yes, thieves would not know how to hot wire, unlock doors and get past the steering lock, of a car that is 20 years old and probably has a hot street value of $500 or less which makes it a target for acquisition.

All of his other points can be considered on its own merits.

This is an emergency procedure, I didn't invent it, people have been known to start their cars this way with no downside and it is useful to know.

Originally Posted by robertobaggio20

Yes, thieves would not know how to hot wire, unlock doors and get past the steering lock, of a car that is 20 years old and probably has a hot street value of $500 or less which makes it a target for acquisition.

All of his other points can be considered on its own merits.

This is an emergency procedure, I didn't invent it, people have been known to start their cars this way with no downside and it is useful to know.

Did you do it to your car? Was the key in it? If so, what position?

Originally Posted by BMR_LVR

Did you do it to your car? Was the key in it? If so, what position?

Ok i just did this on my ride. Engine only starts at key2. Key 1 and 0 is merely crank.
I'm cool with this procedure. Overcame my spark fears by reminding myself of my GS status and jammed the wires in. Engine started within 2-3 cranks. It is ok for the car.

It would be great if someone would try this on an ews2 car with key2. It would be an excellent bypass if it worked.

Originally Posted by robertobaggio20

Ok i just did this on my ride. Engine only starts at key2. Key 1 and 0 is merely crank.
I'm cool with this procedure. Overcame my spark fears by reminding myself of my GS status and jammed the wires in. Engine started within 2-3 cranks. It is ok for the car.

It would be great if someone would try this on an ews2 car with key2. It would be an excellent bypass if it worked.

Ok, so that confirms that PP94 was correct in that it only supplies voltage to the starter and and I was correct in that the key has to be in position 2 for your method to cause the engine to run.

I assume that, if an EWS II key is in position 2 of the correct EWS II ignition, then your method should start the car (assuming that the EWS II system has not failed).

I guess I just don't see the benefit of your method unless position 3 of the ignition tumbler stops working Then, I could see it helping.

No youre right we need to test it on a busted system with the ews2 bypassed and the silver dme in there plus other permutations such as with the ews system intact but at key2.

Tim can you assist ?

Yes, tell the thieves to settle down. You still need a key to start the engine.

I'm cool with this procedure. It is ok for the car. No need for switches etc. Just remember to pull the jump wire out once the engine catches, if not the starter will keep on cranking.

The purpose of being able to run the starter as described is for diagnostics. Typically a tech will use a button wired into these ports to bumb the engine over. Very handy when adjusting the valves, just takes a second to advance to the next position.

200 amps running through the wire.... bwahahahahaha I assume you have seen the difference in size between battery cables, that do carry that kind of amperage and the 12-14ga wires that allow remote cranking.... maybe observation and intuition failed you there

I'll try this tonight.

If anyone cares, this is the proper way to use this feature:
http://paulaxford.com/html/bmw730i/valve_adjustment.htm