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X3 E83 (2004 - 2010)
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  #26  
Old 12-23-2012, 07:46 AM
joebajoe joebajoe is offline
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engine mounts

Hi Everyone,
I have a BMW X3 2008 60000 miles and I too have same problem. The other day I heard a snapping pop from the drivers side when I accelerate. Than on next acceleration same popping sound and than the car started vibrating only when on idle. When is stopped, brakes pressed and idles on D(drive) vibration is worst. Very low frequency annoying vibration. When is on N(neutral) vibration is almost not there. When is on R(reverse), brakes pressed vibration is gone. I suspect it's the mounts????
I am pretty handy. Have tools and have done some car repairs. Is this something I can DIY?
Where are the engine mounts? Are they accessible from top or bottom of the car? Any drawing or diagram?
Thanks a lot for your help,
Vlad
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  #27  
Old 12-23-2012, 08:37 AM
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Dominic49 Dominic49 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joebajoe View Post
Hi Everyone,
I have a BMW X3 2008 60000 miles and I too have same problem. The other day I heard a snapping pop from the drivers side when I accelerate. Than on next acceleration same popping sound and than the car started vibrating only when on idle. When is stopped, brakes pressed and idles on D(drive) vibration is worst. Very low frequency annoying vibration. When is on N(neutral) vibration is almost not there. When is on R(reverse), brakes pressed vibration is gone. I suspect it's the mounts????
I am pretty handy. Have tools and have done some car repairs. Is this something I can DIY?
Where are the engine mounts? Are they accessible from top or bottom of the car? Any drawing or diagram?
Thanks a lot for your help,
Vlad
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...95&hg=22&fg=05

the bolts that go from the mount brackets to the engine block are the suspects. If they have already broken they will need to be extracted from the engine block (i.e. support the motor from above and remove both mounts and all things in the way to get a drill in there)

not a fun job for sure
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  #28  
Old 12-23-2012, 08:42 AM
joebajoe joebajoe is offline
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Thank you Dominic49 for your prompt reply. I think I was able to see the mount on the passenger side. Looking from top of the engine I saw it and it looks OK. I can not locate or see the mount on the drivers side. How I can get access to that?
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  #29  
Old 12-23-2012, 08:44 AM
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Dominic49 Dominic49 is offline
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the mount isn't what breaks. its the bolts that go into the block. the passenger side would probably be seen from below.
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  #30  
Old 12-23-2012, 09:04 AM
spokelizard spokelizard is offline
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Hadn't really read through this thread before, now I'm concerned.

I'll be bringing my 2007 into my indie Mechanic in January for routine maintenance. Since my CPO warranty expires in May, I'd like to have them inspect for this. Does that make sense, i.e. is a visual inspection possible or do I have to wait for symptoms?
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  #31  
Old 12-23-2012, 12:10 PM
Want the Thrill Want the Thrill is offline
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If you google this topic it is happening on not just the X3 but other series as well. What a bunch of BS! BMW should be stepping up to the plate and covering this.
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  #32  
Old 12-24-2012, 09:04 AM
usaret usaret is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joebajoe View Post
Thank you Dominic49 for your prompt reply. I think I was able to see the mount on the passenger side. Looking from top of the engine I saw it and it looks OK. I can not locate or see the mount on the drivers side. How I can get access to that?
If you look straight down (with a flashlight) between the 1st and second intake runners and you can see the drivers side motor mount where it bolts to the block.

Last edited by usaret; 12-24-2012 at 12:02 PM.
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  #33  
Old 12-24-2012, 09:24 AM
joebajoe joebajoe is offline
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Thank you Usaret. I'll try it today.
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  #34  
Old 01-06-2013, 05:39 PM
Bimmer Guy Bimmer Guy is offline
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2004 X3 with Driver's Side Broken Motor Mount

Guess what.... I have a 2004 X3 with broken motor mounts, so this problem is pre-2007 also. This all started approximately 5 to 6 months ago when i noticed while accelerating quickly and turning to the left the engine sounded like it lifted. Upon an actual attempt to make this happen, it sounded again. Since this was the only time made this sound I figured that I would watch this action and all should be fine. So 2 months ago I started to notice a slight grinding sound while breaking from highway speeds; figured it was the breaks. Pads were a original and warn, so I replaced calipers, rotors and pads only to have the same sound. As time passed when I hit bumps it sounds like the whole front end was falling out from under the car. After much thought and self diagnosing I pinned it down to the driver side CV axle. Today I finally had a couple hours to wrench on it with my step dad, he owns a mechanic's shop with a lift. We tore the old out and installed the new. While back checking our work he discovered the new CV boot retainer had already broke. After a further look, the new CV was sitting on the engine cradle; this shouldn't happen at anytime! That lead us directly to the motor mount. Upon a look-see, we found that the rubber was completely gone and the upper aluminum portion of the motor mount was loose, allowing the engine to sit lower than designed. UGH! We temporarily put a band-aid on it that should make it for a week or so till the new parts come in. After reading the post here I am 100% sure that my bolts have sheared as well.

Here's some signs that lead me to this issue... Again, while accelerating quickly and making a sharp left hand turn it sounded like the engine lifted and sat back down (And it did). The driver's side CV axle made a horrible grinding sound while applying the breaks that started just at highway speeds and eventually did it all the way down to about 30 mph and breaking, this only occurred in drive, not reverse. Hit a bump/pot hole and the front end sounds like it was about to fall out.

Upon visually acknowledging what happen it's all clear. Because of the broken motor mount the CV axle was in contact with the engine cradle. This caused CV boot to come off of the axle and allowed dirt and debris to enter where the bearing are, this caused the CV joint to fail. The grinding was due to the pitch of the suspension changing while breaking, this caused the housing of the CV joints to come in contact, while spinning at high RPM's, with the engine cradle. The noise that sounded like the front end falling out was caused from hitting a bump, causing the suspension to compress, and then causing the housing of the CV joints to come in contact with the engine cradle.

The parts, including new aluminum mounting bolts (Thanks), are 150$ plus shipping on realoem.com. As it was getting late we didn't really look into what it's going to take to change the driver's side motor mount, but guessing 2 to 3 hours. I think after complete removal of the inspection plate on the engine cradle it won't be to bad of a job. Or at least I hope!

More to come....
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  #35  
Old 01-06-2013, 06:43 PM
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Dominic49 Dominic49 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer Guy View Post
Guess what.... I have a 2004 X3 with broken motor mounts, so this problem is pre-2007 also. This all started approximately 5 to 6 months ago when i noticed while accelerating quickly and turning to the left the engine sounded like it lifted. Upon an actual attempt to make this happen, it sounded again. Since this was the only time made this sound I figured that I would watch this action and all should be fine. So 2 months ago I started to notice a slight grinding sound while breaking from highway speeds; figured it was the breaks. Pads were a original and warn, so I replaced calipers, rotors and pads only to have the same sound. As time passed when I hit bumps it sounds like the whole front end was falling out from under the car. After much thought and self diagnosing I pinned it down to the driver side CV axle. Today I finally had a couple hours to wrench on it with my step dad, he owns a mechanic's shop with a lift. We tore the old out and installed the new. While back checking our work he discovered the new CV boot retainer had already broke. After a further look, the new CV was sitting on the engine cradle; this shouldn't happen at anytime! That lead us directly to the motor mount. Upon a look-see, we found that the rubber was completely gone and the upper aluminum portion of the motor mount was loose, allowing the engine to sit lower than designed. UGH! We temporarily put a band-aid on it that should make it for a week or so till the new parts come in. After reading the post here I am 100% sure that my bolts have sheared as well.

Here's some signs that lead me to this issue... Again, while accelerating quickly and making a sharp left hand turn it sounded like the engine lifted and sat back down (And it did). The driver's side CV axle made a horrible grinding sound while applying the breaks that started just at highway speeds and eventually did it all the way down to about 30 mph and breaking, this only occurred in drive, not reverse. Hit a bump/pot hole and the front end sounds like it was about to fall out.

Upon visually acknowledging what happen it's all clear. Because of the broken motor mount the CV axle was in contact with the engine cradle. This caused CV boot to come off of the axle and allowed dirt and debris to enter where the bearing are, this caused the CV joint to fail. The grinding was due to the pitch of the suspension changing while breaking, this caused the housing of the CV joints to come in contact, while spinning at high RPM's, with the engine cradle. The noise that sounded like the front end falling out was caused from hitting a bump, causing the suspension to compress, and then causing the housing of the CV joints to come in contact with the engine cradle.

The parts, including new aluminum mounting bolts (Thanks), are 150$ plus shipping on realoem.com. As it was getting late we didn't really look into what it's going to take to change the driver's side motor mount, but guessing 2 to 3 hours. I think after complete removal of the inspection plate on the engine cradle it won't be to bad of a job. Or at least I hope!

More to come....

pics when you get a chance? I have been considering replace the bolts on my vehicle before it sells.
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  #36  
Old 01-06-2013, 07:58 PM
Bimmer Guy Bimmer Guy is offline
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Yeah, I'll post pics. Doesn't seem to be that much DIY info on the web on replacing these. I've only searched for a bit this evening, so if anyone knows any out there please let me know.

Overall it seems to be pretty straight forward, well that is until I run into issues. The biggest I foresee is possibility of the bolts being broke off in the block and little to no room to drill and tap. Then let the swearing begin.

Overall my X3 has been ok, but does seems to be prone to maintenance issues. I've replaced a ton of parts all my self saving money on labor, shop fees and mark-ups. I owe a lot of credit to this site and YouTube for DIY's that's helped along the way! Not sure how long me and my X3 are going to be in this relationship; the honeymoon is over.
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  #37  
Old 02-16-2013, 07:18 PM
Janet D. Janet D. is offline
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I had the same issue with my 2008 328i. Took it to dealership today for idle/vibration problem when stopped. They found two broken motor mount bolts on the right passenger side which caused additional damage to car. I am the sole driver and car has never had any issues or unusual road conditions. I will be contacting BMW NA as well as National Hwy Safety Board. After reading many different forums/blogs there are multiple 2008 vehicles with this same problem as well as other model years.
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  #38  
Old 02-17-2013, 04:38 AM
Madtown Madtown is offline
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I may just replace these bolts as preventive maint. on my wifes 2008 X3 next time I do a oil change. Sounds like they can break at anytime & do some major damage to other parts.
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  #39  
Old 02-17-2013, 07:41 AM
x3brian x3brian is offline
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My 09 has 110k and I have not had issues with motor mounts...yet. I am not sure if PM change is in order...still isn't a super common complaint. However there are enough complaints that I do drop my stiffening plate at every inspection to double check when I replace my diff fluid and coolant. Yes I'm an over maintainer.
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  #40  
Old 03-13-2013, 04:19 AM
akrocket akrocket is offline
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Angry

Never posted on this forum but wanted to chime in to report that my girlfriends 2008 X3 just had the same issue repaired by the dealer. She was getting weird rattling when going over bumps and a lot of vibration when decelerating (in gear but not braking). She's got around 55k on the car.

I am not happy with the dealership. They made it seem like this problem is a rarity which is clearly not true after reading this thread. Has anyone heard word on a recall for this issue? It's pretty obvious the design of these engine mounts is flawed. It's absolutely unacceptable that something this critical would fail on a car with less than 60k miles!
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  #41  
Old 03-13-2013, 04:53 AM
Janet D. Janet D. is offline
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No Recall Yet

After this happened to my 2008 325i I just sent letters to BMW North America and BMW Germany with all the documentation that I have collected on the motor mount bolt issue the cost of my repairs, National Transportation and Safety Board Complaint etc. I have not heard from BMW yet but I am hopeful BMW will do the right thing or compensate owners for the cost of repair or issue a recall. In my research, 2007 and 2008 models seem to be the vehicles having this issue. My dealership gave me the same story that they have NEVER seen this issue before and it must have been my fault for driving the car too hard.
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  #42  
Old 03-13-2013, 07:59 AM
joebajoe joebajoe is offline
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Yea,
It's only worth going to the dealer to buy the bolts. They are around $20. Buy and replace all of them. Mine I replaced at a indie and I am very happy and I saved money and aggravation dealing with the dealer. It seems BMW will not take action on this issue, so it's on us owners.
Just when it happen drive gently and don't accelerate fast so you won't damage other parts.
Bolts can be accessed only from the bottom and you have to lift the car high enough to be able to stand underneath. Some signs about the problem will be:
I personally heard a snapping noise, than another one(obviously when the first and second bolts broke) when I was accelerating fast. Than the car started rattling on idle at very low annoying frequency. I have 2008 X3.

Last edited by joebajoe; 03-13-2013 at 08:00 AM.
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  #43  
Old 04-03-2013, 06:45 PM
jbrooksga jbrooksga is offline
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78,000 miles on my 2008 X3, and last week I started noticing a rumbling vibration when putting it in gear. Had no idea what it was, the indy checked it today and said engine mounts had failed.

Estimated $750 for the repair due to 5 hours of labor.
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  #44  
Old 04-03-2013, 09:09 PM
joebajoe joebajoe is offline
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Make sure is it the mounts, or the bolts that hold the mounts? If it's the bolts - the whole kit 4 bolts are around $20 from the dealer. Mounts are cheap too. Check online.
Labor is no more than an hour!!!!! $750 is a rip off.
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  #45  
Old 04-04-2013, 06:05 AM
jbrooksga jbrooksga is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joebajoe View Post
Make sure is it the mounts, or the bolts that hold the mounts? If it's the bolts - the whole kit 4 bolts are around $20 from the dealer. Mounts are cheap too. Check online.
Labor is no more than an hour!!!!! $750 is a rip off.
It is the mounts as they said it was also leaking hydraulic fluid. They have to suspend the engine to repair the mounts which is said to take about 5 hours.
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  #46  
Old 04-05-2013, 11:53 AM
mtbrdad mtbrdad is offline
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If anyone's interested

I'm new to this BMW thing and so far with about 66.9k on my used X3 I'm not seeing any major issues. I may be able to lend a hand with the breaking of the motor mount bolts issue, I'm a mechanical engineer who works in the cold forging of aluminum parts for air bags and cartridge cases for munitions, and we also heat treat aluminum. Also I've worked in the cold heading industry for caliper bolts, so I'm familiar with looking at threads for flaws in their manufacture. If anyone could send me some of these broken bolts I would be able to take a look at them for manufacturing flaws that under vibration from running would cause them to crack. Also I have worked with a very good metallurgical engineering firm in Milwaukee, WI that may be able to give a detailed analysis of the aluminum and its hardness and to identify if there are/were any flaws in the metal that caused them to crack. Let me know and I'll PM you my address.

Not sure if it's been posted here before, but to elevate any complaints to the national level that would then push a recall all complaints need to be registered at https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/.

As a reference for other cars generally at about 100k the motor mounts are suspect. My wifes Honda Odyssey had 1 broken at 105k and our friends odyssey had 2 broken at 100k.
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  #47  
Old 04-05-2013, 11:59 AM
mtbrdad mtbrdad is offline
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metallurgical engineering firm cost

I forgot to mention going to the metallurgical firm in WI would cost some cash, in the past my company has paid them anywhere from $250-$1000 for part analysis. But they are one of the only engineering firms I've spoken with that can give honest relatively straight forward answers.
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  #48  
Old 04-08-2013, 03:20 PM
twgiard twgiard is offline
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Sheared Engine Bolts

2007 X3. 75k miles. 3 of 4 bolts sheared. Engine dropped 2 inches and took out the thermostat and a hose. $1,300. Guess I'm lucky it didn't drop completely going 70 on the highway...
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  #49  
Old 04-10-2013, 04:09 PM
jbrooksga jbrooksga is offline
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Originally Posted by jbrooksga View Post
It is the mounts as they said it was also leaking hydraulic fluid. They have to suspend the engine to repair the mounts which is said to take about 5 hours.
Turns out the condition was more serious than I thought. Since I had it inspected last week, more damage was done which sheared out most of the aluminum bolts on the side mounts as well.

It was driving like total crap recently with the instability, now I know why. What's strange is now the automatic transmission shifting almost feels like any other car. Much more consistent.
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  #50  
Old 08-16-2013, 03:47 PM
Toyota4Life Toyota4Life is offline
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Aloha all! About a week ago the orange coolant fluid level light on the dash board cluster began flashing. I filled the reservoir tank and within two days the light was back on. Filled it again and again for three more days until I though, "something is wrong here." Began the forum searches and noticed a flaw in the BMW cooling system, this forced me to start taking out parts in search of the leak. I ordered a new OEM water pump (electric will run $350-450) and screws. I figured the hoses I could find locally, but that's not the case so order all the hoses and such when you order your pump. I was able to remove the five bolts holding the water pump to the motor but was unable to remove the pump. As I traced the hoses and leaks to the bottom of the motor, I noticed some bolt holes out if place. HUHHHH WTF!!! How can four bolts shear off at the motor bracket?!?! Now more forum searching until I got to this one! What I understand is that the motor mount screws sheared and shifted the motor to the passenger side which then put heavy stress on the water pump causing the coolant issues. Now I'm in the process of removing the bolts from engine, replacing the three bolts on the drivers side, raising the motor back to original height to set the motor back onto the motor brackets. Thankfully the motor mounts and braces are unharmed so hopefully once I un-tap the sheared screws and replace with new factory ones, my water pump will last. I will keep you'all updated and if anything else goes as planned.
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