Start of wire tuck DIY

I've seen a few posts lately about doing a wire tuck and have started doing some on my own. I'm doing it piece by piece so it won't be quick but I'm going to try and post as I go in case anyone else wants to do it also. If you have any questions let me know.

The first thing I did was eliminate the air pump and tuck the wiring and simulator inside the DME housing. that post is here. http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1938468

Today I installed my new headlights and had a little extra time so I did a little more. I am keeping the washers and for now the stock washer bottle. The euro e36 with SMG had the washer bottle in the bumper so I'm going to try to get my hands on one of those but for now I tucked the hose. If you disconnect it from the washer pump (pop the clip off but don't break it) you can pull it back up towards the hood hinge. There is an oval opening right above the power block that goes inside the inner fender. If you run it through that it comes out just behind the headlights and you can then reconnect it. It doesn't get rid of it completely but it helps hide most of it.
I posted some pictures but they're not the greatest. If you have any questions just ask.

Originally Posted by EfiniMotorsport

The first thing I did was eliminate the air pump and tuck the wiring and simulator inside the DME housing. that post is here. http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1938468

404 not found :P

Seems interesting enough, good luck with it! I wish to see the end result.

here's the link http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1938468

There isn't much wiring to "tuck" on an E36, but there is definitely stuff you can clear out. Here's my engine bay missing a few components. Plan on relocating the washer fluid container to the trunk eventually. Probably much cheaper than finding a euro setup.



Are you a shop in Norwalk? When I'm not at school, I live in Trumbull.

I like you, CJ. You like to live dangerously.

Expansion tank next to the DME. NBD.
Engine covers? What are those?

Where's your MAF?

Maf was removed with all other uneccessary parts. Just blocks air flow.

Sent from my SCH-I405 using Bimmer App

Did you flash your ECU to run without it then? Or are you always running open loop?

I had a shop and at some point will be opening another. I still do some work here and there but I seem to do more work on my own car than anyone else's

ci you can tuck your washer and coolant hoses inside the passenger side fender. Look at my pics above and you'll see where I ran them.

Originally Posted by petriej

Did you flash your ECU to run without it then? Or are you always running open loop?

No ECU either. Extra weight.



















Can you tell I'm trolling yet?

The MAF is in upside-down

I was going to leave that alone in case you were an idiot. Glad to see that isn't the case.

Hmm, might be worth experimenting, though.

Originally Posted by petriej

Hmm, might be worth experimenting, though.

Uh or not at all?


I guess you could just dump fuel in the engine and you'd gain a few hp from opening up the intake, but that wouldn't be all too efficient.

cj, *i* knew it was positioned with the plug in the 'down' position...

('cause minziztu)


df

Originally Posted by petriej

Hmm, might be worth experimenting, though.

Wouldnt work. DME needs the MAF to know how much fuel to inject. You'd need a custom tune to run no MAF, and there would be no advantage to running without, as you'd be stuck in a default fuel/air ratio despite variable conditions (eg, altitude changes, extreme temp changes, etc)


I wire tucked my car. It was a royal PITA under the radiator support, but I made it work. Also, dont even try to tuck the harness out of the fuse box. You will not succeed. I spent hours trying. I went from fuse box into the drivers fender, then its tucked all the way through. Also shoved my ballasts and FDM relay up there too. Did a SAP delete, but then i needed to pass emissions, so I undeleted it

Pics?

I has none. I can take some though when I get the car in the garage again

CJ, you has S50, no? You mentioned having an S52 earlier (perhaps by accident), but that's got an S50 valve cover, and I don't recall you switching an OBD2 motor to OBD1.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...761&highlight=

Now to try and take my thread back.
It was finally a few degrees warmer yesterday and I was able to do a little more work on the car. I managed to eliminate the last of the wires along the passenger fender/strut tower. What I had left was the hood pin switch and the wiring for the heated washer nozzles and temp sensor for the cold weather package. I don't know if all or most e36's had this but mine did.
I wanted to keep the hood pin as it's wired into my alarm. To hide the wire I ran it into the fender through the hole just below the jumpstart post box and then forward. It was just long enough to come out right under the hood switch itself and plug back in. I didn't need to cut the plug off because you can pull the pins out of the connector and I was then able to tape them to my snake and pull them through.
The cold weather package wiring was just pulled out of the clips and back down below where the air pump used to be.I did have to drop the hood liner to unplug the wiring from the washers. Right now the wires are just coiled up as I need to drop the glove box to pull them back through the fire wall. Once I do that I'll trace them out and either depin them form wherever they are or cut and tape them.
The next step is to start on the drivers side which of course is where most of the wires run. I need to fix my DD first so I can have the bimmer down for more than a few hours. I'll post more as I get it done.

She's gettin there! One thing. If those wires are pinched around a body panel tightly, make sure to protect them extra well. Otherwise they'll rub through.

The factory hole I ran them through is pretty big so there not real tight. The opening they come out through at the front of the fender is all open. It makes it easy to snake everything through.