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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 07-04-2012, 02:50 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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I was remiss in that I should report back that my year-long quest to locate the source(s) of a long-standing lean misfire condition (many codes) was resolved simply by replacing a few rubber hose/tubes/pipes/boots/caps & gaskets.

Specifically:
a) I first replaced all the rubber tubes/hoses/pipes/plugs I could easily get to in the engine bay ... which immediately helped somewhat lessen the frequency of the lean-condition misfire codes ...
- Where in the USA to get new vacuum tubing & vacuum caps (1) & what SAE sizes to get for all the metric M54 engine vacuum tubes, hoses, pipes, and caps (1) & correcting the F-connector errors in the realoem diagrams (1) & finding the ends of hard-to-locate vacuum tubes (1) & sorely needed clarification on how the M54 CCV vacuum port works on the M52 CCV valve connection to the fuel pressure regulator connection (1)

b) I then ran a smoke test ...
- How to make your own smoke machine (1)


c) Which pinpointed a lower CCV vent hose leak ...
- Does the order of the misfire OBDII DTCs diagnostic trouble codes actually matter (1)


d) I also unclogged the dipstick guide tube which was clogged solid (and perhaps was a reason for the CCV vent hose leak) ...
- How to test, clean, & redesign the original BMW dipstick guide tube to prevent CCV vent clogs (1)


e) Lastly, I replaced the rubber boot which is connected to the ICV & TCV.


Those simple steps resolved my lean condition misfires!

BTW, while I rarely solve problems by replacing components without learning how to test them, I concur that one way to solve perplexing lean condition misfires, at this age of our bimmers, is to simply replace every vacuum-related rubber hose/tube/pipe/boot/cap/gasket in the engine bay.
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Last edited by bluebee; 07-04-2012 at 03:11 AM.
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  #27  
Old 01-04-2013, 06:12 PM
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Yet another cracked #9 endcap over here today:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh P. View Post
I believe the piece is #9 here but am not certain. Tech pulled it out by hand, no tool.



As far as the trim, all I can tell you is what he told me, which is that the codes indicated 8-10% below the normal operating fuel to air ratios. I didn't see the readout. I have been noticing poorer in town MPG, though 8-10% would be barely noticeable, just a few MPG.
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  #28  
Old 01-04-2013, 07:54 PM
Steve530 Steve530 is offline
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Yea, they all do that.
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  #29  
Old 01-05-2013, 09:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve530 View Post
Yea, they all do that.
What we need is a comprehensive kit for all rubber to replace in our ageing bimmers:

Seems to me, it would consist of:
a) Bulk tubing of the metric size & best material type for most hoses/lines/tubing
b) All necessary metric endcaps
c) Photographic instructions
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Last edited by bluebee; 01-05-2013 at 09:29 AM.
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  #30  
Old 01-11-2013, 07:50 AM
jkeniley jkeniley is offline
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I just finished replacing all of the hoses on my 2001 525it. I removed the intake manifold to replace the ccv. After putting the car back together and starting it, I noticed very rough idling until the car warmed up. I did not have the rough idle beforehand.

It feels like a vaccum issue so I reinspected my work and found an uncapped "nipple" on the back side of the intake manifold (next to the firewall). The realoem diagram references two different types of caps but does not show how they attach to the manifold. I have one capped nipple, a vacuum hose from the secondary air pump on the second nipple and the uncapped nipple.

Does anyone have a picture of the backside of the manifold showing how the hoses should be attached?

Does it make a difference which nipple you attach the secondary air pump tube (as long as the diameter is the same)?

Does an uncapped nipple create enough pressure loss to cause the rough idle?
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  #31  
Old 01-11-2013, 08:48 AM
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doru doru is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkeniley View Post

Stuff deleted

Does an uncapped nipple create enough pressure loss to cause the rough idle?
Yes.
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  #32  
Old 01-11-2013, 05:27 PM
Steve530 Steve530 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkeniley View Post
I just finished replacing all of the hoses on my 2001 525it. I removed the intake manifold to replace the ccv. After putting the car back together and starting it, I noticed very rough idling until the car warmed up. I did not have the rough idle beforehand.

It feels like a vaccum issue so I reinspected my work and found an uncapped "nipple" on the back side of the intake manifold (next to the firewall). The realoem diagram references two different types of caps but does not show how they attach to the manifold. I have one capped nipple, a vacuum hose from the secondary air pump on the second nipple and the uncapped nipple.

Does anyone have a picture of the backside of the manifold showing how the hoses should be attached?

Does it make a difference which nipple you attach the secondary air pump tube (as long as the diameter is the same)?

Does an uncapped nipple create enough pressure loss to cause the rough idle?
See the photo below. It's taken from below the electric valve. There are 2 small and one large nipples, The hose going to the electric valve goes to one small nipple and the other is capped. I don't think it matters which the hose is attached to, but the photo shows how it was attached on my car. The small caps are 3.5mm and the large is 7mm.

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  #33  
Old 01-11-2013, 09:00 PM
jkeniley jkeniley is offline
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Thanks Steve.

I went to the dealer today and bought new caps. I set it up as per your picture and all is well.

I can't get over how sensitive the car is to the uncapped "nipple": rough start and lots of hesitation especially when it is cold.

I also think the uncapped "nipple" and the concurrent loss of vacuum was having an effect on shifting.

The cold tranny was shifting like it was low on fluid especially going from 3rd to 4th in a hilly area. Now it shifts correctly.

I was just about to trade the car in and get a newer 535I because I could not figure out the problem. Thanks to all for the very complete tutorial on vacuum hoses.
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  #34  
Old 01-11-2013, 11:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkeniley View Post
I went to the dealer today and bought new caps..
Since it's fresh in your mind, can you confirm or deny that #9 below is the same as #17 below?

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
  1. Engine => Intake manifold => Intake manifold system
    • #15, Cap, D=3,5MM, Qty=2, 11611437560, $3.39 (between 1/8" & 9/64" ID)
    • #17, Cap, D=7,0MM, Qty=1, 11611727176, $3.39 (between 17/64" & 19/32" ID)
    • ... stuff omitted ...
  2. Engine => Vacuum control => AIR PUMP F VACUUM CONTROL
    • 09 VACUUM CAP (no part number shown)
    • ... stuff omitted ...
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Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
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  #35  
Old 01-13-2013, 06:32 AM
jkeniley jkeniley is offline
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It has to be the same part. There are no other "nipples" on that side of the intake manifold.
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  #36  
Old 02-26-2013, 10:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
For the record, we just updated the purge valve diagram above based on 16valex' and JimLev's clarifications over here:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > EVAP Purge Valve Flow.
See also:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Purge control valve vac hose help!


By way of cross reference, folks over in this thread today were pondering the same questions we already answered in this thread. Too bad they didn't find this thread, whose whole purpose was to answer the questions BEFORE they're asked!

Quote:
Originally Posted by lovett9565 View Post
While wrestling out the older valve the vac tube that goes to the intake maniford or throttle body came out. I can't for the life of me find where it goes. I've searched the board and I even called bav auto and they got me the picture; it the same pic that I found on realoem.com. Still no luck!

Any help is appreicated; trying to get her back together; so its the end that allows the vapor to be burned by the engine when the valve opens up. I appreciate any help.

Chad
Quote:
Originally Posted by lovett9565 View Post
where does the number 3 hose connect at?
Quote:
Originally Posted by lovett9565 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by lovett9565 View Post
cn90 i'm good with the ccv, oil seperator. I need to know about the purge control valve or evap sensor hose routing right behind the power steering holding tank
I didn't see anything in fudman i'm checking jason5driver
Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
EVAP system in all cars is very similar.
Hose #3 simply connects to the intake, either upstream or downstream of the throttle plate.
Use a mirror to look for the nipple in the intake throttle housing.
Or run engine and listen for hissing (sucking) noise, you will be able to locate the nipple.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
Maybe the "F connector" in Step #5 here:
http://blog.bavauto.com/5434/bmw-m54...30i-525i-530i/
Quote:
Originally Posted by lovett9565 View Post
page 3 of jason5driver 4 picture down is what I was looking for! Once i get this back together The last thing i need to figure out is why my care is cutting out at high rpm on full throttle but thats for another day!
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 04-21-2013 at 10:57 PM.
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  #37  
Old 05-07-2014, 08:43 PM
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For the record, there was a nice thread today where cn90 helped a fellow team member find the ends of a vacuum hose in the 528i.
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Hose Help

Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
I took photo posted by bartelbe and re-labeled it so you know what my setup looks like:

- The YELLOW arrow in the photo goes to the side port of the Air Valve. Does this matter? No, because once the Air Valve opens, it connects the vacuum source from the hose with WHITE stripe to the hose with BLUE strip as in the photo by bartelbe.
But anyway, my setup is the opposite of bartelbe.

- The one-way valve, the Black part should face the source of the vacuum b/c this is a one-way valve. At least this is the way I understand it.



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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
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  #38  
Old 06-23-2014, 09:27 AM
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Another engine running problem was solved today over here, when a user replaced the vacuum lines, which, by now, are likely near gone on all #E39s:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > One user's plight trying to set OBDII secondary air system monitor


Quote:
Originally Posted by 528IParis View Post
I had traced the problem down to a couple of deteriorated vacuum lines leading from the hard plastic line that comes off the vacuum valve on the exhaust manifold and run either side of the electric vacuum solenoid.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mda185 View Post
This is exactly what was wrong with my Secondary Air System. I replaced my hose with silicone vacuum hose that is typically used by the turbo import enthusiasts for their Subarus, Mistubishi Evos, and in my case, Toyota All Trac Turbo. If you buy decent quality silicone hose, it has a high temperature rating and is suitable for our application. Turbosmart is the brand hose I used. You can find it on Amazon, at Summit Racing and many other outlets. It is also commonly found on Ebay. I replaced all the plastic pieces and just ran a continuous line from the valve to the switch under the intake manifold. I also replaced the short hose pieces from the switch to the one way valve and to the intake manifold. This should be a permanent fix.
EDIT: Here's a nice description and diagram of the SAS:
- What are the components of the secondary air system SAS (1)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kibokojoe
Secondary Air pump (SAP) troubleshooting and repair. (2000 BMW E39 528i)
If you are receiving two OBD errors P1421 and P1423 it may be your SAP system. I have read several of the online manuals and Bentleys is worthless, they all gave me a headache by the time I was finished. They all made it harder to determine the problem then they needed too. So to help the next guy (simply) through this problem here is my write up.
Take a look at the illustration there are four major components to the SAP system.
  1. Secondary air pump (SAP
  2. Air pump valve (APV)
  3. Electric valve (EV)
  4. Non-return valve (NRV)
First test detach hose from the SAP at the APV (# one with a yellow circle). Mine has the squeeze ring. Once detached have someone start the car. Car has to be cold for at least 4 hours. Feel for air is blowing from the SAP.
If blowing SAP is good
If no blowing SAP bad
If SAP is blowing feel the inlet side of the APV if you feel exhaust APV is bad. Test for one minute to see if valve eventually closes.
If APV is closed check the vacuum on the APV. I used a mitivac. Check APV by itself (it should hold a vacuum with no leaking). Then check the hose running from the APV to the manifold. I attached the mitivac at point A and put my finger over point B. This is where I found my leaků.. hose was rotten. Check the rest of the hose from C to the manifold.
The NRV is directional (Arrow). You can check it with the mitivac, I just sucked on it to determine the direction of the flow, it only goes one way. If you can draw air both directions the NRV is bad.
The biggest pain in this project was getting the EV out for inspection. The EV is under the back of the intake manifold and you have to use a small mirror and a flashlight to see and determine how to get the EV off of the mounting bracket.
Remove the right side air box
Remove the beauty covers from the top of the engine. Makes it easier to check the vacuum hoses and to get at the EV
While you're doing this it is best if you replace all the hoses # 7 and #4.
If you look at the side picture of the EV you will see a clip. You have to pull the EV towards you while pushing in on the clip towards the engine. I used a thin blade 6" screwdriver. Unless you have someone to hold the mirror and light you will have to do this blind. Also the on-line illustration of the EV are backwards. (red arrow).
Kibokojoe
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 08-15-2014 at 09:17 AM.
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  #39  
Old 07-01-2014, 07:13 AM
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This V8 vacuum line was discussed today ...
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Plugged vacuum line or some line near valve cover on my 97 540
Quote:
Originally Posted by Justaguy78 View Post
So I'm new to my car but near the drivers side front valve cover is a line that is plugged off, I asked my friends that sold me the car and they said they had never even noticed it because they always took it for service at a place here on the Island "our nearest BMW dealer is over 50 miles away in Houston"

I looked and tried to see where it should be going to but couldn't find anything?

The car runs great well it has the typical quirks leaking valve covers, bad window regulators x2 bad ribbon cables but nothing that is major bad

If anyone knows where I should find to reattach this can you please help me out

Thanks,

Donnie
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
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  #40  
Old 07-12-2014, 02:56 PM
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For the record, the fuel line sizes were asked about today:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Fuel line Size

Quote:
Originally Posted by bem-ster View Post
2001 525i fuel filter replacement. Can someone tell me the size of the Flexible Fuel line that connects to the Fuel Line Filter? The size of the Vacuum line that connects to the Fuel Line Filter? I want to replace them if I have to cut the lines to remove the Fuel Filter.
Quote:
Originally Posted by plmadding01e39 View Post
Fuel line is 8x13
Quote:
Originally Posted by injuhneer View Post
Propane or MAPP gas from an unlit torch.
I wonder how well that test works when you have MULTIPLE vacuum leaks at the same time?

Here's all of mine, for example, in my last diagnostic quest...
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
Here are all my vaccum leaks, all at the same time:

And another of mine:

And another of mine:

And yet another (these are all my BMW):

And yet another on my BMW:

And another, still on my very own BMW:

And, that's just my BMW!

Given that a vacuum leak is an extremely common occurrence on our E39s, you might want to look at the extensive pictures and diagrams found by typing /vacuum f3 in the bestlinks.
- How to locate all problematic (between 1/8" & 9/32" ID) 3.5x1.8mm, 3.3x1.8mm & (between 17/64" & 9/32" ID) 7mm ID vacuum tubing (single material), vacuum hoses (multiple material), 3.3mm OD curved vacuum pipes (rigid tubes), 3.5mm & 7mm ID vacuum endcaps (closed end) & 7x3mm manifold o-rings (1) & 7.52X3.52mm and 9.2X2.8mm fuel injection o-rings (1) & gaskets (1) on the M54 engine & where in the USA to get new vacuum tubing & vacuum caps (1) & what SAE sizes to get for all the metric M54 engine vacuum tubes, hoses, pipes, and caps (1) & correcting the F-connector errors in the realoem diagrams (1) & finding the ends of hard-to-locate vacuum tubes (1) & sorely needed clarification on how the M54 CCV vacuum port works on the M52 CCV valve connection to the fuel pressure regulator connection (1) & how to make, borrow, or buy lean-condition misfire test tools to test for vacuum leaks & lean conditions (1) (2)
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 07-21-2014 at 11:10 AM.
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  #41  
Old 08-15-2014, 07:42 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Just by way of cross reference, this thread was opened today:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Crazy E39 vacuum tubing delete idea

Quote:
Originally Posted by negev View Post
So I have an E39 V8, have vacuum leaks in parts of the intake for the second time in a year which is being fixed at a garage.

I have a friend at work who has this idea that's either crazy or genius, basically he says that what he often does with his cars is go through all of the vacuum tubes and rip it all out except the bare minimum needed to deliver the air into the engine.

I have no idea what the practical implementation of this would look like, or if it's even feasible with an M62 engine, but if it makes the intake simpler and reduces vacuum leaks then it sounds like maybe a cool idea. Unless of course he's totally insane and there's nothing there that can be removed without causing other problems.
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