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7 Series - E65 / E66 (2002 - 2008)
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  #551  
Old 01-11-2013, 08:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SFbay View Post
It won't help with lower hose temp though. I'd better spend 600$ on the pipe
You've been saying this.
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  #552  
Old 01-12-2013, 03:17 AM
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SFbay did you buy everything from AGA?I see its sold as a package.Thanks SFbay.cmpcpro watch your temps and if you go high at idle and can stomp on the gas pedal and bring temps down I believe like SFpro has said its the pipe.
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  #553  
Old 01-12-2013, 07:14 AM
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No matter what the temp will drop iirc when the engine rpms raise the dme opens the tstat. Thats why while youre driving the temp drops once the car is at the right temp. While im in motion my car drops to low to mid 90s and at idle the car will reach high 90s to 101 unless i drive hard and idle immediately for 30 mins then i can reach 105 other than that i will not under normal driving circumstances reach 105. I been watching on and off since the start of this thread maybe during the summer ill run hotter. I want evans and a new tstat by then. Just a bit cold atm for me
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  #554  
Old 01-12-2013, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by 745iguy View Post
No matter what the temp will drop iirc when the engine rpms raise the dme opens the tstat. Thats why while youre driving the temp drops once the car is at the right temp. While im in motion my car drops to low to mid 90s and at idle the car will reach high 90s to 101 unless i drive hard and idle immediately for 30 mins then i can reach 105 other than that i will not under normal driving circumstances reach 105. I been watching on and off since the start of this thread maybe during the summer ill run hotter. I want evans and a new tstat by then. Just a bit cold atm for me
Yes it will open tstat, but not sure about mid 90 though, never seen mid 90 on these cars. But if there is a problem in cooling system even with open tstat, cooling is not sufficient.
Yes Evans must help to prevent all kind of failures, also if zero pressure it should stop all the leaks if they are not serious

Last edited by SFbay; 01-12-2013 at 09:46 AM.
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  #555  
Old 01-12-2013, 10:01 AM
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On post 66 if you look at that, thats what i am on average driving around.
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  #556  
Old 01-12-2013, 10:26 AM
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And yes i agree if you have a leak you will definitely run hotter
It takes a looong time for my temp to raise up when idling. Not so sure about what thats about
Im going to see when i can get into my buddies garage so i can do all of this AsAP
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Last edited by 745iguy; 01-12-2013 at 10:29 AM.
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  #557  
Old 01-12-2013, 11:06 AM
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That loud noise I am hearing coming directly from my cooling pipe area that SFBay said was 200% my alternator is NOT my alternator I will give you benefit of the doubt because you heard it on a movie, but I believe it's my coolant pipe.. I think the pipe is leaking down into the valley pan from a very small leak, and when the car is cold that noise is the vacuum sucking all the coolant back up.. The reason I say this is this: If I start the car cold and run it for only 5 minutes, and turn it off, it does the noise all over again if I start it 10 minutes later.. for the same exact amount of time. Also if I give the car gas while its happening the sound makes no change.. so if it was the alt, I would think the noise would change by RPM.. if I run the car up to a certain temp, which I don't know the exact temp the car will not make the noise until it's cold again, unless I drain the coolant, in which case it makes the noise everytime. The only thing that throws me off is this started happening instantly after I drained my coolant for the first time.. I really think if we can figure this out, this may be the key to the problem.. Is this a sign that there is still air in the motor? A leak in the coolant pipe? It sounds like a gurgling type noise.. I don't see anything else in that area that could make that noise?
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  #558  
Old 01-12-2013, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by cmpcpro View Post
That loud noise I am hearing coming directly from my cooling pipe area that SFBay said was 200% my alternator is NOT my alternator I will give you benefit of the doubt because you heard it on a movie, but I believe it's my coolant pipe.. I think the pipe is leaking down into the valley pan from a very small leak, and when the car is cold that noise is the vacuum sucking all the coolant back up.. The reason I say this is this: If I start the car cold and run it for only 5 minutes, and turn it off, it does the noise all over again if I start it 10 minutes later.. for the same exact amount of time. Also if I give the car gas while its happening the sound makes no change.. so if it was the alt, I would think the noise would change by RPM.. if I run the car up to a certain temp, which I don't know the exact temp the car will not make the noise until it's cold again, unless I drain the coolant, in which case it makes the noise everytime. The only thing that throws me off is this started happening instantly after I drained my coolant for the first time.. I really think if we can figure this out, this may be the key to the problem.. Is this a sign that there is still air in the motor? A leak in the coolant pipe? It sounds like a gurgling type noise.. I don't see anything else in that area that could make that noise?
Well not going to argue, but you do have coolant pipe or valley pan problem, but there is no way it makes metal noise. You can start the car without alt belt, but in this case you'll say wp isn't working so.....
Do the pipe first and then let's talk). My mechanic charges me 200$ to remove the damn engine with tranny down!! So if I remove that mfker I can easily install oem 60$ pipe!!!! Also will take care of that alt gasket. Also rear plate is there easy to remove. Hmmm may be I'll do it this way.
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  #559  
Old 01-12-2013, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by SFbay View Post
Well not going to argue, but you do have coolant pipe or valley pan problem, but there is no way it makes metal noise. You can start the car without alt belt, but in this case you'll say wp isn't working so.....
Do the pipe first and then let's talk). My mechanic charges me 200$ to remove the damn engine with tranny down!! So if I remove that mfker I can easily install oem 60$ pipe!!!! Also will take care of that alt gasket. Also rear plate is there easy to remove. Hmmm may be I'll do it this way.
Hey SF, I don't think it's a metal noise.. it may sound like it online but it sounds like a vacuum gurgling noise.. like the noise when you go to the dentist.. Also, Paper's friend has a coolant pipe issue and his car makes the same noise.. so I am thinking maybe this could be a symptom if it's bad in one particular way.. However I must say I have not heard the other guys car, so I am not 100% sure it's the same noise at all.

At $200 I would remove the motor and do the back plate, but I have to say, even with motor removed I would install the AGA pipe, I think it's a better design and with a viton seal, I think it will last for good.
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  #560  
Old 01-12-2013, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by cmpcpro View Post
Hey SF, I don't think it's a metal noise.. it may sound like it online but it sounds like a vacuum gurgling noise.. like the noise when you go to the dentist.. Also, Paper's friend has a coolant pipe issue and his car makes the same noise.. so I am thinking maybe this could be a symptom if it's bad in one particular way.. However I must say I have not heard the other guys car, so I am not 100% sure it's the same noise at all.

At $200 I would remove the motor and do the back plate, but I have to say, even with motor removed I would install the AGA pipe, I think it's a better design and with a viton seal, I think it will last for good.
Don't forget oem pipe lasts 5-7 yrs and that front seal is glued to the pipe vs aga and other agas. With 95C tstat that oem pipe will outlast engine easy. This video shows proper and cheapest way how to do it right.
http://youtu.be/i0oGe1t022E

Last edited by SFbay; 01-12-2013 at 06:02 PM.
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  #561  
Old 01-13-2013, 03:23 PM
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I see you still haven't shared an info
On the T-sat used .

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  #562  
Old 01-13-2013, 03:42 PM
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I see you still haven't shared an info
On the T-sat used .

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I'm not happy with it, it's leaking a little from electric connector- need to redo it to seal it somehow. Well first version is not perfect;( stupid cold is really screwing my plans.
So I cannot say for sure it's total success, also dme burned my resistor so I got cel. Need some tweaks
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  #563  
Old 01-13-2013, 07:16 PM
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I would be willing to work on ideas too if I knew what tstat to use.. My stepdad is a master fabricator, has a very well known shop that's been on TV. I am sure he could help us..
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  #564  
Old 01-13-2013, 07:27 PM
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I'm not happy with it, it's leaking a little from electric connector- need to redo it to seal it somehow. Well first version is not perfect;( stupid cold is really screwing my plans.
So I cannot say for sure it's total success, also dme burned my resistor so I got cel. Need some tweaks
Oh no.. Keep us posted and please be sure to let me know when it is in working order
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  #565  
Old 01-13-2013, 09:30 PM
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Oh no.. Keep us posted and please be sure to let me know when it is in working order
It is in working order, but DME will throw error bc my resistor cannot sustain that power, I can install big ass one, but it's only not to have cel. Mine worked for 3 days and next morning got cel. In reality it's 15ohm boiler
Will need to have some oring installed to prevent small leakage. It's not really a leak but I can see some residue inside the connector.
Fxxxg flu stops me from everything. Sitting at home, took a whole week off got all parts for wheep hole, but health is more important.
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  #566  
Old 01-13-2013, 09:39 PM
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It is in working order, but DME will throw error bc my resistor cannot sustain that power, I can install big ass one, but it's only not to have cel. Mine worked for 3 days and next morning got cel. In reality it's 15ohm boiler
Will need to have some oring installed to prevent small leakage. It's not really a leak but I can see some residue inside the connector.
Fxxxg flu stops me from everything. Sitting at home, took a whole week off got all parts for wheep hole, but health is more important.
Dude, get feeling better, the flu this year is strong. Took me down a couple of days right after Xmas. Total sh1t. I Never get that sick
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  #567  
Old 01-13-2013, 09:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SFbay View Post
It is in working order, but DME will throw error bc my resistor cannot sustain that power, I can install big ass one, but it's only not to have cel. Mine worked for 3 days and next morning got cel. In reality it's 15ohm boiler
Will need to have some oring installed to prevent small leakage. It's not really a leak but I can see some residue inside the connector.
Fxxxg flu stops me from everything. Sitting at home, took a whole week off got all parts for wheep hole, but health is more important.
Sorry to hear all that. Get well soon.
I look forward to seeing the "final version"
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  #568  
Old 01-13-2013, 10:09 PM
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As I said above I would be more than willing to help. I am a computer technician by trade, I own my own business in the field. I can possibly work on the electrical front, and my stepdad is a master fabricator with a full blow shop with all the tools. We have a friend with a machine shop down the street, and I have many friends in the parts stores and the guys in the parts dept. at the dealer. I really think I could be a valuable asset working on this. Now that you have found the correct thermostat that is working and that is proven, these small issues could be taken care of by us working on them together. I don't expect you to have to do all the work yourself. Hell I think we would all be willing to donate to you for the money spent on testing the thermostats. I will. But this is obviously a big problem and we are all driving around at 105c every day, and causing problems.. I just spent $225 on a brand new vacuum pump to resolve the oil leaking and now I have a new leak on the other side.. so even a few days can be the difference between damage.
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  #569  
Old 01-13-2013, 10:36 PM
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As I said above I would be more than willing to help. I am a computer technician by trade, I own my own business in the field. I can possibly work on the electrical front, and my stepdad is a master fabricator with a full blow shop with all the tools. We have a friend with a machine shop down the street, and I have many friends in the parts stores and the guys in the parts dept. at the dealer. I really think I could be a valuable asset working on this. Now that you have found the correct thermostat that is working and that is proven, these small issues could be taken care of by us working on them together. I don't expect you to have to do all the work yourself. Hell I think we would all be willing to donate to you for the money spent on testing the thermostats. I will. But this is obviously a big problem and we are all driving around at 105c every day, and causing problems.. I just spent $225 on a brand new vacuum pump to resolve the oil leaking and now I have a new leak on the other side.. so even a few days can be the difference between damage.
I told you:
The more you drive with internal leak the more damage you're going to make. My engine was almost dry 4 months ago. Now my valve cover gaskets and upper timing ones look ****ty;( so fix the leak
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  #570  
Old 01-14-2013, 09:35 AM
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SF: My car is running great now.. I don't have a leak. Wijji sent me a movie of his fan which I posted on here, it was screaming. Mine barely even spins up to the point where you could hear it.. Anyway, I dropped $600 on a new one this weekend and I just got back right this minute from testing it for over an hour. The car is staying no higher than 103c! At idle it will go as high as 105c but not a degree over. So my cooling system is running fine. Plus, I have absolutely strong stream from vent hose.

Now that the system is running like normal I would like to obviously make it run cooler. We have asked you countless times for the information on the tstat. We've even offered to pay for the information. I have absolutely no problem helping with the latest issues, and figuring this out, I won't even take any of the credit, as it's all on you for figuring it out. But everyday, like you said that we drive our cars at 105c we are ruining them.
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  #571  
Old 01-14-2013, 09:46 AM
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SF: My car is running great now.. I don't have a leak. Wijji sent me a movie of his fan which I posted on here, it was screaming. Mine barely even spins up to the point where you could hear it.. Anyway, I dropped $600 on a new one this weekend and I just got back right this minute from testing it for over an hour. The car is staying no higher than 103c! At idle it will go as high as 105c but not a degree over. So my cooling system is running fine. Plus, I have absolutely strong stream from vent hose.

Now that the system is running like normal I would like to obviously make it run cooler. We have asked you countless times for the information on the tstat. We've even offered to pay for the information. I have absolutely no problem helping with the latest issues, and figuring this out, I won't even take any of the credit, as it's all on you for figuring it out. But everyday, like you said that we drive our cars at 105c we are ruining them.
That's nice, but what matters is lower hose temp: if it stays at 65-70 when idling, it's good enough.
Here is what we need:
I saw similar design in Subaru, but would be nice to check whole bunch of tstats if smbdy works at parts store.
Bc aluminum housing is quite expensive to manufacture, all we need is this element.
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  #572  
Old 01-14-2013, 04:06 PM
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Could you take a pic of the housing where the end of the tstat plunger sits,pushes against.The Z06 corvette has a similar design and those guys are putting a shim under the plunger seat to the tsat housing.Kind of a hack but they have also cut a coil out of the spring with success.I dont think these are any worse options than another tsat fit in the wrong housing.
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  #573  
Old 01-14-2013, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by SFbay View Post
That's nice, but what matters is lower hose temp: if it stays at 65-70 when idling, it's good enough.
Here is what we need:
I saw similar design in Subaru, but would be nice to check whole bunch of tstats if smbdy works at parts store.
Bc aluminum housing is quite expensive to manufacture, all we need is this element.
My lower hose temp will drop at idle, but when any load is applied to the car it jumps right back up.. I haven't watched the INPA longer than the first 15 minutes or so of a run, so the lower hose may climb temp once running for a while, but when temp gets near 105 the lower hose temp will climb even when at idle.
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  #574  
Old 01-14-2013, 04:27 PM
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http://http://teamzr1.com/modstat.html

Last edited by dolfan13; 01-14-2013 at 04:37 PM.
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  #575  
Old 01-14-2013, 06:31 PM
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My lower hose temp will drop at idle, but when any load is applied to the car it jumps right back up.. I haven't watched the INPA longer than the first 15 minutes or so of a run, so the lower hose may climb temp once running for a while, but when temp gets near 105 the lower hose temp will climb even when at idle.
If it drops at idle you're screwed
How bad it drops?? 30-40C??

Last edited by SFbay; 01-14-2013 at 06:44 PM.
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