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E90/E91/E92/E93 (2006 - 2013)
The E9X is the 4th evolution of the BMW 3 series including a highly tuned twin turbo 335i variant pushing out 300hp and 300 ft. lbs. of torque. BMW continues to show that it sets the bar for true driving performance! -- View the E9X Wiki

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  #1  
Old 11-23-2011, 08:34 AM
jertronic jertronic is offline
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New Eccentric Shaft Sensor Installed Today

I admit to reading posts that relate to this topic, but I want to share my satisfaction with the Dealership and the performance of my engine.

The sensor went bad and was leaking oil through the seal in and around the sensor. My car is 10K past the warranty (60K miles). The dealership performed the repair under a "goodwill" exception. The SA told me that the repair is normally $1800. They a lot the technician 8.5 hours of labor for this repair.

Not only was the repair free, I also have a car that runs much better at low rpm's. Now I will get to see if mpg improves. I should knock on wood. Hopefully I won't have a costly service need in the near future. My anticipation is something like brakes (my brakes are Original) or suspension will get me. I replaced a crack rear spring on my 2002 325xi.

Isn't is refreshing to hear about a positive service experience coming out of the dealership?
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  #2  
Old 11-23-2011, 10:11 AM
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DSXMachina DSXMachina is offline
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Can someone fill me in. What/where is the eccentric shaft sensor?
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  #3  
Old 11-23-2011, 10:57 AM
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rtgirard rtgirard is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DSXMachina View Post
Can someone fill me in. What/where is the eccentric shaft sensor?
Total guess without looking at the Bentley book, but doesn't this have to do with the Valvetronic motor?
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  #4  
Old 11-23-2011, 11:00 AM
jertronic jertronic is offline
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It is at the end of the Valvetronic ecentric shaft
-it is located under the valve cover
-it tells the ECU what position the shaft is in, barely rotated for idle, fully rotated for full power

If the valvetronic mechanism controls the 'throttling' of the engine just as a throttle body and butterfly would, then the eccentric shaft sensor is the equivalent to the throttle position sensor.

This sensor tells the computer how much the eccentric shaft has rotated, it gives feedback to the computer as to how much 'valve lift/throttling' the engine gets.

The valve cover is removed and the VCG is replaced when re-attaching the valve cover.
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  #5  
Old 11-23-2011, 11:06 AM
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DSXMachina DSXMachina is offline
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I figured it might be cam related, but how the heck do they get 8 1/2 hours replacing that? You could swap a cylinder head in that time! And the dealer comp'ed this job? Interesting.
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  #6  
Old 11-23-2011, 11:18 AM
jertronic jertronic is offline
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The repair estimate of $1800 was based on 8 1/2 hrs labor I believe. The SA was willing to cut me a break and offered a repair quote of $1300 before he went and lobbied for "goodwill" repair.

The angle of my approach was to convince the dealership that this malfunction was emissions related. The emissions system has an 8yr/80,000 mile warranty. Valvetronic is not considered to be within the scope of the emissions system.

You have to agree that this seems like a rare failure.
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  #7  
Old 01-15-2013, 03:37 PM
barkles barkles is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jertronic View Post
The repair estimate of $1800 was based on 8 1/2 hrs labor I believe. The SA was willing to cut me a break and offered a repair quote of $1300 before he went and lobbied for "goodwill" repair.

The angle of my approach was to convince the dealership that this malfunction was emissions related. The emissions system has an 8yr/80,000 mile warranty. Valvetronic is not considered to be within the scope of the emissions system.

You have to agree that this seems like a rare failure.
I got hosed on goodwill assistance for this same repair. I told them your story too and was on the phone with them for the past week. Guess it varies per customer.
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  #8  
Old 01-15-2013, 04:41 PM
Cultr Cultr is offline
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Originally Posted by barkles View Post
I got hosed on goodwill assistance for this same repair. I told them your story too and was on the phone with them for the past week. Guess it varies per customer.
He bought the car brand new. Not the same.
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  #9  
Old 01-15-2013, 09:14 PM
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CALWATERBOY CALWATERBOY is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DSXMachina View Post
I figured it might be cam related, but how the heck do they get 8 1/2 hours replacing that? You could swap a cylinder head in that time! And the dealer comp'ed this job? Interesting.

DSX, here is a good illustrated DIY
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  #10  
Old 01-17-2013, 06:19 PM
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DSXMachina DSXMachina is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CALWATERBOY View Post
DSX, here is a good illustrated DIY
LOL, Cal, this thread is going on two years old and I've done three of these jobs now. No way in heck it takes what the OP was quoted. I think this is going to be a very common failure based on my smaller shop seeing three in a short time. Fortunately it can be done relatively easily by anyone who can pay attention to detail.
The critical thing is to correctly interpret codes and then do a proper diagnostic. Don't want to successfully change the wrong part.

Last edited by DSXMachina; 01-17-2013 at 06:20 PM.
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  #11  
Old 01-17-2013, 08:45 PM
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CALWATERBOY CALWATERBOY is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DSXMachina View Post
LOL, Cal, this thread is going on two years old and I've done three of these jobs now. No way in heck it takes what the OP was quoted. I think this is going to be a very common failure based on my smaller shop seeing three in a short time. Fortunately it can be done relatively easily by anyone who can pay attention to detail.
The critical thing is to correctly interpret codes and then do a proper diagnostic. Don't want to successfully change the wrong part.

Sandbagged!

There I was, rubbin' my head, wondering as just how DSX of all people didn't know all about that job....

But noooooooooooo, blindsided by an over-active imagination and mysterious compulsion to post, I did the dirty.

I gotta read more books.
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  #12  
Old 01-18-2013, 03:53 AM
mr_bean mr_bean is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jertronic View Post
I admit to reading posts that relate to this topic, but I want to share my satisfaction with the Dealership and the performance of my engine.

The sensor went bad and was leaking oil through the seal in and around the sensor. My car is 10K past the warranty (60K miles). The dealership performed the repair under a "goodwill" exception. The SA told me that the repair is normally $1800. They a lot the technician 8.5 hours of labor for this repair.

Not only was the repair free, I also have a car that runs much better at low rpm's. Now I will get to see if mpg improves. I should knock on wood. Hopefully I won't have a costly service need in the near future. My anticipation is something like brakes (my brakes are Original) or suspension will get me. I replaced a crack rear spring on my 2002 325xi.

Isn't is refreshing to hear about a positive service experience coming out of the dealership?
What symptoms did you have? Was it just an SES light or was the engine running weird?
Let us know how the repair effects performance and fuel mileage. My engine has been behaving strangely of late and the dealer's software update did nothing.
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  #13  
Old 04-04-2013, 05:28 AM
Str8black328I Str8black328I is offline
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I just had this done at the dealer- I didnt know this was the issue nor did I have any error codes. I had brought my car into the dealer for my battery cable replacement and a vehicle check- I told them I had an issue with the Car at stop lights from time to time kinda jerking on me while I held the brake pedal... So out of that statement and their own test drive they did this repair and stated in the report report that the sensor did in fact have Oil in it... My car is 2 years old with 30,000 miles on it- I wonder how often I will need to have this done...
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  #14  
Old 04-04-2013, 05:44 AM
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fun2drive fun2drive is offline
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Kudos to your dealership for being so lean forward. How often will this fail? Who knows but seeing more and more of these happening. I never knew until 6 months ago what that sensor was and how great a design to bury this requiring hours of labor.
Like the mechatronic sleeve BMW will improve this and the sensor.
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  #15  
Old 05-25-2015, 04:02 PM
sebrina sebrina is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CALWATERBOY View Post
DSX, here is a good illustrated DIY
Thanks for this, going to be doing this as soon as I get the parts. Will be my first major mechanical overhaul. Hope my mechanic friend will supervise, but this DIY really helps.
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  #16  
Old 05-25-2015, 05:03 PM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is offline
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8.5 hours is book time and it doesn't take ANYWHERE near that.

We can do this job in under 3 hours
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  #17  
Old 05-25-2015, 10:34 PM
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sptt144 sptt144 is offline
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Have the newer V-6, non turbo (if they have one) engine been redesigned to not have this eccentric shaft sensor problem? I see my 335i only has the vanos solenoids on the front and the CPS and Cam Shaft Sensors on the block. Only oil leaks I have had have been VCG and Oil Housing Gasket leaks. Wanting to get wife a newer CPO with 6 Cyl but don't want this problem if I can avoid by model. Or, does she get a 4 cylinder dieseling turbo 5 series?
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  #18  
Old 05-26-2015, 09:28 AM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is offline
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N54s do not have an eccentric shaft sensor.

These motors are I-6s, not V6s.
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  #19  
Old 05-27-2015, 10:22 PM
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sptt144 sptt144 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fdriller9 View Post
N54s do not have an eccentric shaft sensor.

These motors are I-6s, not V6s.
I realized later that I called it a V6 but I did know it was an inline. I have to be more careful Good to know that sensor isn't in the N54. Thanks
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  #20  
Old 07-08-2015, 01:41 PM
BimBid BimBid is offline
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Anyone that has done this repair DIY, what parts were ordered besides the sensor itself? I have a trusted mechanic to do the repair, but will not pay dealer price for parts. Want to make sure I have all I need before beginning.
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  #21  
Old 07-08-2015, 02:01 PM
sebrina sebrina is offline
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parts you should have on hand

I successfully changed my ESS a month ago. I didn't want to look though the thread to see if you listed the parts you bought for this, so I just thought I would tell you what I used. Obviously it is under the valve cover so you will need a valve cover gasket set and brake cleaner to clean the oil off. Your sensor should have come in two pieces. one being the sensor itself and the other the gasket that fits on to the valve cover. I went a step further and ordered new spark plugs since I was near 100,000 miles.

The huge nut in the center of the back of the compartment that holds the stabilizing bars is its own huge size that you may need to buy a socket for.

Pay attention to how the valvetronic motor removal goes in the DIY- it is a bit tricky. A whole lot of people suggest replacing that gasket as well. It is the big diamond shaped one on the side of the valve cover.

The valve cover bolts are to be torqued to 7 foot pounds- I couldn't get my hands on a torque wrench that worked for that light of a weight- but if you can it will help. I has the shop finish that part for me to be sure.

I think that was all I used- but you know once you start being like "well, since we are in here already, lets change this out too" it can get really expensive.
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  #22  
Old 07-08-2015, 04:06 PM
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CALWATERBOY DUE CALWATERBOY DUE is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sebrina View Post
I successfully changed my ESS a month ago. I didn't want to look though the thread to see if you listed the parts you bought for this, so I just thought I would tell you what I used. Obviously it is under the valve cover so you will need a valve cover gasket set and brake cleaner to clean the oil off. Your sensor should have come in two pieces. one being the sensor itself and the other the gasket that fits on to the valve cover. I went a step further and ordered new spark plugs since I was near 100,000 miles.

>snip<

Pay attention to how the valvetronic motor removal goes in the DIY- it is a bit tricky. A whole lot of people suggest replacing that gasket as well. It is the big diamond shaped one on the side of the valve cover.

The valve cover bolts are to be torqued to 7 foot pounds- I couldn't get my hands on a torque wrench that worked for that light of a weight- but if you can it will help. I has the shop finish that part for me to be sure.

Good advice - rule o'thumb: Never re-use a gasket!
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