Cooling System

Cmpcpro looks like you lost your wax.Im just going to experiment with cutting a coil off the spring.Did you notice at the end of the rod a small portion had been welded on?Once again Z06 vette guys have had success cutting a coil or two off the spring.Im going to do this without removing the end cap so not to lose wax.i also thought it interesting that this tstat already has a hole "drilled"that is in the form of a check valve.

Originally Posted by cmpcpro

Waterpump is making a horrible noise everytime car starts cold.. I think bearing is shot.. going to replace it with everything, so it will all be new at once.

Cmp it seems like I am getting a horrible noise when I start cold. Does it go away after 30 seconds? I might have to get my mech to change out my water pump if this is the case

Originally Posted by Tanny

Cmp it seems like I am getting a horrible noise when I start cold. Does it go away after 30 seconds? I might have to get my mech to change out my water pump if this is the case

Yes it does, and I can tell you it's NOT the water pump.. Changed and still have the issue. Sounds like it's coming from intake area.. wondering if the TB or DISA could be causing it..?

Ok when you find out let me know. The last time I took it to my mech he did not find the failt

Originally Posted by Tanny

Ok when you find out let me know. The last time I took it to my mech he did not find the failt

Have you changed your coolant? AGA was thinking it may be air pocket.

Originally Posted by cmpcpro

Yes it does, and I can tell you it's NOT the water pump.. Changed and still have the issue. Sounds like it's coming from intake area.. wondering if the TB or DISA could be causing it..?

Secondary air pump?

No it's something's have not done yet. Ill get it done next service and see how that goes

It goes when engine is warm or after 30 seconds on cold start so hard to diagnose

Originally Posted by Stephen Max

Secondary air pump?

Now that could be very likely, when I tightened the plastic hose clamp onto the tstat housing I heard a crack, but it didn't sound like a break crack.. but have you heard the video I posted some pages back? It doesn't like a pretty radical noise.. not sure thats just simply air.. plus no CEL's..

Originally Posted by Tanny

It goes when engine is warm or after 30 seconds on cold start so hard to diagnose

I don't understand what you are saying here.

But, mine happens only when the car is cold, and last for 30 sec. If I turn off the car before it reaches full temp it will happen again, and then go away 30sec later.. if I let car warm to full it doesn't happen.

Originally Posted by Stephen Max

Secondary air pump?

I just thought about something, can't I turn on the sec air pump via INPA? That would test that theory.

Originally Posted by cmpcpro

I don't understand what you are saying here.

But, mine happens only when the car is cold, and last for 30 sec. If I turn off the car before it reaches full temp it will happen again, and then go away 30sec later.. if I let car warm to full it doesn't happen.

The sound only happens when the car is cold. As soon as warm it doesn't make that sound

Yes u can test sap using inpa under activate goto modules under me9 n62. Turn sap on is under modules

Originally Posted by 745iguy

Yes u can test sap using inpa under activate goto modules under me9 n62. Turn sap on is under modules

Thanks! Are you any good with INPA by chance? I bought my cable and programs from the ebay UK guy, and it was INPA v3.0.. well it doesn't have any options to reset DME adaptations so I found a ver. of 5.0.2 online and now that I installed that I can't even get into Me9 for N62, it tells me the module or something isn't found..

I have been watching this post with interest.

I have been searching online and have come up with this piece of information:

Thermostats have a "rated" temperature such as 180F or 195F. This is the temperature the thermostat WILL START TO OPEN, give or take 3 degrees.

Usually located within a metal or plastic housing where the upper radiator hose connects to the engine, most of today's thermostats utilize the "reverse poppet" design, which opens against the flow of the coolant. Thermostats have a wax filled copper housing or cup called a "heat motor" that pushes the thermostat open against spring pressure.

As the engine's coolant warms up, the increase in heat causes the wax to melt and expand. The wax pushes against a piston inside a rubber boot. This forces the piston outward to open the thermostat. Within 3 or 4 degrees F. of the thermostat preset/rated temperature which is usually marked on the thermostat, the thermostat begins to unseat so coolant can start to circulate between the engine and radiator. It continues to open until engine cooling requirements are satisfied. IT IS FULLY OPEN ABOUT 15-20 DEGREES ABOVE ITS RATED TEMPERATURE. If the temperature of the circulating coolant begins to drop, the wax element contracts, allowing spring tension to close the thermostat, thus decreasing coolant flow through the radiator.

My thoughts are, (and correct me if I am wrong).

The spring tension must play a part in how quickly the thermostat opens. If the spring was replaced with one with less tension, then the expansion of the wax against the lesser tension spring must open the thermostat more quickly. This would then allow the coolant to flow sooner through the radiator. As the engine cools, the lesser tensioned spring would be slower to close the thermostat which should keep the flow through the radiator longer. Therefore keeping the engine cooler.

If that is the case perhaps the spring on a 95 degree thermostat (of any make) is preset to the tension we need for the E65/E66 engine.

Maybe it is as simple as finding a 95 degree thermostat and taking it apart and using the spring on the BMW thermostat?

Cj745nz your dead on about everything I have read also.About the spring tension I have cut one loop out cleanly and will install this sat.Just pushing with my fingers I can tell less resistance.I have found many that have lowered operating temps this way.

Originally Posted by dolfan13

Cj745nz your dead on about everything I have read also.About the spring tension I have cut one loop out cleanly and will install this sat.Just pushing with my fingers I can tell less resistance.I have found many that have lowered operating temps this way.

Yes that's what I'm going to try 2mrow

Originally Posted by dolfan13

Cj745nz your dead on about everything I have read also.About the spring tension I have cut one loop out cleanly and will install this sat.Just pushing with my fingers I can tell less resistance.I have found many that have lowered operating temps this way.

But you think the tstac might just stay open all the time? Cause spring is going to be shorter? Or after cutting the spring stench it back to same size?

Originally Posted by CJ745NZ

I have been watching this post with interest.

I have been searching online and have come up with this piece of information:

Thermostats have a "rated" temperature such as 180F or 195F. This is the temperature the thermostat WILL START TO OPEN, give or take 3 degrees.

Usually located within a metal or plastic housing where the upper radiator hose connects to the engine, most of today's thermostats utilize the "reverse poppet" design, which opens against the flow of the coolant. Thermostats have a wax filled copper housing or cup called a "heat motor" that pushes the thermostat open against spring pressure.

As the engine's coolant warms up, the increase in heat causes the wax to melt and expand. The wax pushes against a piston inside a rubber boot. This forces the piston outward to open the thermostat. Within 3 or 4 degrees F. of the thermostat preset/rated temperature which is usually marked on the thermostat, the thermostat begins to unseat so coolant can start to circulate between the engine and radiator. It continues to open until engine cooling requirements are satisfied. IT IS FULLY OPEN ABOUT 15-20 DEGREES ABOVE ITS RATED TEMPERATURE. If the temperature of the circulating coolant begins to drop, the wax element contracts, allowing spring tension to close the thermostat, thus decreasing coolant flow through the radiator.

My thoughts are, (and correct me if I am wrong).

The spring tension must play a part in how quickly the thermostat opens. If the spring was replaced with one with less tension, then the expansion of the wax against the lesser tension spring must open the thermostat more quickly. This would then allow the coolant to flow sooner through the radiator. As the engine cools, the lesser tensioned spring would be slower to close the thermostat which should keep the flow through the radiator longer. Therefore keeping the engine cooler.

If that is the case perhaps the spring on a 95 degree thermostat (of any make) is preset to the tension we need for the E65/E66 engine.

Maybe it is as simple as finding a 95 degree thermostat and taking it apart and using the spring on the BMW thermostat?

I have already done extensive testing on this theory and it's not correct. The way to go is to find a 95 or 85c thermostat and retrofit it in the E65 housing. I have put a very weak spring on our thermostat and it still opens at 105. The wax in OUR thermostats expands at that degree. I thought the same, that the spring would make the difference, but the spring seems to affect how quickly it opens, but at the same temp.

Dammmm

Well I do have a friend that works at autozone. I'll see if his manager not in 2mrow? And I'll play with his stock and see if I get lucky?????

Originally Posted by rideme2

Well I do have a friend that works at autozone. I'll see if his manager not in 2mrow? And I'll play with his stock and see if I get lucky?????

That would be great. If we find a nice 85 or 95c tstat that looks like it would come close to fitting I can have my friend at the machine shop see what he can do about making it work.. Maybe we can come up with a plan to have them made for whoever here wants one.

Cool I just want to cool the car:-)) but if all goes good ill post right alway...

On the stove with a boiling pot yours didnt start to move until 105c? Mine was 50% or more at 100c.I have 4 different thermometers and they all read very close.

Originally Posted by dolfan13

On the stove with a boiling pot yours didnt start to move until 105c? Mine was 50% or more at 100c.I have 4 different thermometers and they all read very close.

What about the one you cut? Those it work?