Replacing Vanos Seals, the best and cheapest($25) repair for your 7

so I have seen alot of people with pre-facelift models doing this and it helping them.... anyone with a facelift model done this or going to do this one??

Greetings 7Figuerz

Can you give me some clarification. When ordering the O-rings it says 4 required of each. According to your pics I would only need two of each. Are there two other solenoids somewhere?
Thanks

Originally Posted by bmoneyg

Greetings 7Figuerz

Can you give me some clarification. When ordering the O-rings it says 4 required of each. According to your pics I would only need two of each. Are there two other solenoids somewhere?
Thanks

Only two on each valve! You should have a total of 4 big O-rings and 4 small ones. One big and one small for each valve.

Thanks for your quik response 7Figuerz.
I apologize in advance if I'm being a PITA. If there is one big and one small on each valve there are only two in your pics in which I would use a total of 4 o-rings. Where I am not clear is where are the other two solenoids for the remaining 4 o-rings.

Originally Posted by bmoneyg

Thanks for your quik response 7Figuerz.
I apologize in advance if I'm being a PITA. If there is one big and one small on each valve there are only two in your pics in which I would use a total of 4 o-rings. Where I am not clear is where are the other two solenoids for the remaining 4 o-rings.

I'm not 7Figurez... To answer your question the are four solenoid valves on the front of the engine, 2 for each side. His pics were for reference I'm sure. Heres another pic for clarity.

Sorry about that. Thanks for the clarification. Just wanted to make sure I ordered the correct amount and now I know the location of all soleniods.

Thanks

You should totally post a DIY. Maybe get a few pictures. I feel comfortable already doing it, but love to see pictures on how to lol

Originally Posted by bmoneyg

Sorry about that. Thanks for the clarification. Just wanted to make sure I ordered the correct amount and now I know the location of all soleniods.

Thanks

Not a problem.

So if I were to pull the units and replace the O-rings do I HAVE to do any coding or module resets, etc. Or is it as simple as remove a couple bolts, take off old o-rings, put on new o-rings, wipe it down, push it back in and tighten a couple bolts?

I did not do the coding but did change the O-rings as preventive maintenance. It was pretty simple.
Pull the retaining clips off with some needle nose pliers. Remove the plug (connector). Then take the bolts holding the solenoids on.
Gently pry loose with a screwdriver there is a little groove there. I could not get it all the way out with a screwdriver, so once I loosened it with the screwdriver it used some needle nose to pull it all the way out.

The one by the vacuum pump was not that hard but did look like it would be. Once you pry it out a little with the screwdriver I used some channel locks on and turned it to the 5/6 o'clock position and it came right out. When putting the new O-rings back on I put some oil in a cap a put the small ones in the oil prior to installing them on the solenoid. I ran the large O-rings in oil also. You will see where the large o-ring goes when you remove the solenoid. You cannot put the large o-ring on the solenoid and then install. Large o-ring must be mounted before installing the solenoid. When reinstalling put a rag, bowl pot or something under the solenoids before you install the plug clips. You do not want to drop one like I did. Its aluminum. If you are doing it right after driving have some rags the solenoids are hot.

I had a little oil on the lower front of my vacuum pump. I did have the recall hose fixed and think the o-ring between the pump and timing cover may be leaking. Check that out also. I can see there oil has been leaking because I have soil buildup from oil be on the parts below.

Originally Posted by Thesatman

simple as remove a couple bolts, take off old o-rings, put on new o-rings, wipe it down, push it back in and tighten a couple bolts?

Exactly just that!

Originally Posted by bmoneyg

You cannot put the large o-ring on the solenoid and then install. Large o-ring must be mounted before installing the solenoid.

Can you elaborate on this? What do you mean you can't put the large O-ring on the solenoid and then install?

Great heads-up about the aluminum retaining clips...yeah dropping one would suck.

Originally Posted by Thesatman

Can you elaborate on this? What do you mean you can't put the large O-ring on the solenoid and then install?

Great heads-up about the aluminum retaining clips...yeah dropping one would suck.

He means you put the oiled up o ring inside the space for it on the timing cover. If you put it on the solenoid first you may pinch ; ruin and waste an oring


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Ahh...also good to know.

I was wondering if this repair will fix rough idling on cold start? And will your transmission shift smoother with this? Thank you

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I think I have my Indy talked into trying this in the next couple of days. I'll keep you posted on the outcome. Cant wait to have smooth idle!

For anyone that has already done this. Can you simply pull out the solenoid and replace the small o-ring (which is the one that leaks apparently) without disconnecting it and then put each one right back in?

Once you remove the retaining ring the connector comes off very easy. By not removing the solenoid from the timing cover it may actually take longer to do the job. Plus the wires are not that long.

Originally Posted by johndade

I was wondering if this repair will fix rough idling on cold start? And will your transmission shift smoother with this? Thank you

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Nothing to do with tranny shifts whatsoever!

Cannot say it will fix that issue you have. However you may want to consider doing it as a process of elimination/preventive maintenance. You never know. Have you changed your spark plugs, air filters, trans fluid and filter, fuel filter? How many miles do you have on your 7? You may have a vacuum leak also. Do you have any codes? I remember not having my oil cap on good caused my 7 to run rough. Sounds like when something on your vehicle warms up it enables it to idle smooth. Lie something seals when warmed up. Is this your case. Maybe one of the Gurus will chime in also.