How to test, clean, & redesign the original BMW dipstick guide tube (CCV vent clogs!)

As rdl mentioned in the other thread, it is only important to measure the vertical distance between the water levels. If you make sure the manometer is plumb, you make the measurement directly. If the manometer is not plumb, make sure you measure the difference in a vertically, not along the manometer.

As redl also pointed out, when you blow into the hose, it will open the diaphragm.

AFAIK, there will be no DTC because there is nothing in the system to monitor the CCV.

BTW, RDL mentioned, over here, a fifth option to modifying the dipstick guide tube:
1. Buy the new dipstick guide tube
2. Drill 180° from the lower CCV vent 'finger' (above the o-ring location) through all 4 layers of metal and then weld shut the hole in the outer layer
3. Drill holes every inch or so through all 4 layers of metal BELOW the o-ring location
4. Dremel away most of the outer guide tube below the o-ring location
5. Drill away the inner guide tube with a large drill bit going straight up the bottom of the dipstick guide tube

Originally Posted by Steve530

no DTC because there is nothing in the system to monitor the CCV.

Interesting. Thanks for the information that nothing in the DTC codes is for monitoring CCV operation.

Originally Posted by Steve530

it is only important to measure the vertical distance between the water levels.

Thanks for the clarification that only the vertical distance between the proximal and distal water levels matters, with the rule held normal to the earth.

Originally Posted by Steve530

when you blow into the hose, it will open the diaphragm.

I'm really not sure what that means because I get ZERO RESISTANCE no matter what the engine speed when I blow into the upper CCV vent pipe.

If that means the diaphragm is holed, I 'still' (unfortunately) don't get how that's supposed to indicate that. I wonder if someone with a known good CCV can test and report what happens when they blow into the upper vent pipe?

Originally Posted by bluebee

... stuff deleted ...

I'm really not sure what that means because I get ZERO RESISTANCE no matter what the engine speed when I blow into the upper CCV vent pipe.

If that means the diaphragm is holed, I 'still' (unfortunately) don't get how that's supposed to indicate that. I wonder if someone with a known good CCV can test and report what happens when they blow into the upper vent pipe?

See this link for a comment on your question

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...4&postcount=83

Originally Posted by rdl

See this link

Hi RDL,
I was looking for that link! I knew you had answered it, but, I searched before posting that last re-request ... and I couldn't find it. I started to (erroneously) think it was never answered. Thanks for finding it for us!

Here's the answer you gave over there:

Originally Posted by rdl

I appreciate that the "blow for bubbles test" has been recommended for some time.

It has never made sense to me. (Doesn't work for me either).

Making bubbles would require pressurizing the CCV chambers in order to force air down to the dipstick guidetube and bubble through the oil in the sump.

But, while the engine is operating, the CCV is keeping the port to the inlet manifold open "just the right amount" so that the hose (which the CCV thinks should be connected to the crankcase) has 4 - 6" w.c. vacuum.

Any pressure rise generated by blowing into the pipe would cause the CCV diaphragm to open the port wider to overcome the effect and maintain vacuum.

When the engine is stopped, the CCV default position is for the port-to-inlet manifold to be fully open; again making it impossible to generate pressure to bubble through the oil.

Any pressure would go to the inlet manifold, past the throttle toward the engine air filter, or though a cylinder that has both valves open in overlap, and down the exhaust.

Can anyone report that they have succeeded in making bubbles with a properly functioning CCV?

Of course, you could remove the hoses to the intake and plug them. Then you should be able to blow into the vent hose and cause bubbling in the crankcase. Not sure that would be worthwhile, but it should work.

Originally Posted by Steve530

Of course, you could remove the hoses to the intake and plug them.

I'm not sure how much 'trouble' that would be - but it 'seems' like too much trouble for an inconclusive test.

I'm assuming at this point that the consensus is that the oft-mentioned 'vent tube bubble test' is not really a usable test for CCV operation.

Given that, yet given my high vacuum test, I need to re-read the CCV testing thread because I find it hard to believe my CCV is toast because I have no 'other' symptoms of a bad CCV (smoke in exhaust and/or loss of oil over time).

I lament a nice, simple, definitive test for a bad CCV (but maybe I just did it all wrong so I need to re-research).

In a post today, someone with a blinking SES and three cylinders out reported that the shop is intimating a clogged CCV caused the problem, as evidenced by oil in the intake:
- SES light

My question (keeping in mind Fudman's initial response to a similar question in post #8 of this thread & a more detailed response in post #19):
Q: Could a clogged CCV or dipstick tube really cause 3 cylinders to misfire consistently?

Originally Posted by bluebee

stuff deleted

Q: Could a clogged CCV or dipstick tube really cause 3 cylinders to misfire consistently?

Not on the v8. the dipstick goes straight into the sump without any other "attachments" (read tubes).



V8 CCV design is actually a cyclone, a different design than i6. It has no diaphragm.



The vacuum is created different.



Also, if ingestion occurs, the cylinder bank that gets it should be all disabled, not only 3 cylinders. Why is the 4th healthy?

Originally Posted by doru

Not on the v8

Wow. I never realized the CCV works that differently on the V8 than on the I6 (I did know the V8 had a separate separator).

So that we don't waste this nice research, I'll add it to the CCV testing thread:
- How to test the crankcase ventilation (aka CCV, CVV, PCV, CPV, & OSV) pressure regulating valve system (1)

In addition, there are some GREAT PICTURES in this thread for how to more gracefully remove the connections for the dipstick:
-> E39 (1997 - 2003) > How do diagnose a sudden and disturbingly unsettling cold-engine misfire (vanos?)

Originally Posted by mjbennett9

Help-at point of no return. Cut hose to dipstick :-) I'm actually flying along and doing great! However, there appears to be a non-OEM electrical connection that doesn't have the spring clip? I can't figure out how to get it off. I got all the other ones off no problem (other than someone going crazy with zip ties in crazy places to reach). I'm ready to remove throttle bottle. but electrical box is in the way. I could probably do it with it like it is but it will be a royal pain. as an FYI, I haven't found any of that mayo yet. dipstick looks clean. Did notice that there was no dipstick gasket in place. Dipstick came out no problem and no mess at all.

The problem with the connector is that it looks like either the smaller end could come out of the bigger plastic piece, or the whole things comes out. The plastic clips are very rigid and can't tell if the push in, or you have to open them outwards. Either way is very very hard as the plastic is very hard. Once I get this connect off, I'll be flying along again. Notice the yellow circle with the normal metal clip. All the others have that and came right off. Do I remove piece in the red circle from teh piece in the blue circle? or remove the blue circle (which takes the red one with it)? and how hard/far to I squeeze or open that connector? I've tried but no luck either way. But also not sure which piece(s) come out.

Another note. While I cleaned the MAF a month ago, I did not inspect it well enough. there are major cracks in the both boots. Guess it's always good to replace if old, or you do not know the vehicle history. CCV hoses look better than boots. CCV so far looks good from outside. Will check for mayo as I get more things out--once I get this flipping connector off. :-)

Part number for the dipstick seal over here today:

Originally Posted by vavet5308

Yes, the oil dipstick tube has a seal.
BMW part number 11 43 1 740 045

For cross reference, sources for and discussion about the cold weather dipstick tube guide are over here today:

Originally Posted by JNMNL52

Preparing to replace my CCV system and getting the parts in order. As a preventive measure, based on comments here in this forum, I believe it is wise to replace the dipstick tube. The replacement oil dipstick tube part number on RealOEM.com is 11437531258 - costing about $75.00. I have read about the new improved BMW dipstick tube part number 11437565437 - costing about $145.00. This new part is NOT listed on RealOEM.com. My dealer does not have a listing for this new PN. I looked it up on several parts websites through Furiousmethod.com (awesome website) and the new tube is classified as a cold climate dipstick tube and many have it in stock. I am replacing my CCV system with a regular design not cold weather design CCV. My question is will the new so called "cold climate" dipstick tube adapt and fit with the regular CCV hose system?

Does anyone believe that this dipstick tube issue could cause a slightly irregular idle at start-up for 10-15 secs, and some white exhaust on acceleration for a few minutes and then all is normal.
Not burning coolant, have checked for head gasket leaks. Thanks

Originally Posted by jholt

Does anyone believe that this dipstick tube issue could cause a slightly irregular idle at start-up for 10-15 secs, and some white exhaust on acceleration for a few minutes and then all is normal.

I do not know - so we'll have to wait for someone else to report whether that's possible.

In the meantime, this note from Gary is hopeful:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Gary's updated CCV thread

Originally Posted by gary@germanautosolutions

The kit is going to include a new redesigned dipstick tube.

Gary

For the record, this related thread was opened today:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > New oil guide tube - Dipstick HARD to remove

It referenced this thread (which covered the hard-to-insert new dipstick guide tube):
- CCV Replacement FYI - M54