Help tons of codes, no idea whats wrong!

my 01 325i would start but would not run longer than a few seconds it would idle rough then die. i checked the codes and there was 13 of them.

p0171-bank 1 too lean
p0300 twice - random misfire
p1352-cylinder 6 misfire during startup
p1346-cylinder 3 misfire during startup
p1348-cylinder 4 misfire during startup
p1345-cylinder 2 misfire with fuel cut off
p1351-cylinder 5 misfire with fuel cut off
p0313 twice - misfire with low fuel
p0174-bank 2 too lean
p0175-bank 2 too rich
p0172-bank 1 too rich

it would run once i unplugged the maf. im thinking fuel pump or massive vacumn leak. any other suggestions would be great its my daily driver and i need it up and running asap.

Originally Posted by tae314

i checked the codes and there was 13 of them.

Standard advice is to clear them, and then drive the vehicle, and watch to see what pops up as pending, and take the first codes first.

For misfires, all known culprits are listed here:
- How to diagnose a BMW M54 engine misfire (1) & how to battle M54 vacuum leaks (1) (2) (3) & how to solve specific vacuum leak diagnostic trouble codes such as P0171, P0174, P0313 (1) & P0170, P0173 (1) & where to find all the vacuum hoses in the M54 (1)

Originally Posted by tae314

my 01 325i would start but would not run longer than a few seconds it would idle rough then die. i checked the codes and there was 13 of them.

p0171-bank 1 too lean
p0300 twice - random misfire
p1352-cylinder 6 misfire during startup
p1346-cylinder 3 misfire during startup
p1348-cylinder 4 misfire during startup
p1345-cylinder 2 misfire with fuel cut off
p1351-cylinder 5 misfire with fuel cut off
p0313 twice - misfire with low fuel
p0174-bank 2 too lean
p0175-bank 2 too rich
p0172-bank 1 too rich

it would run once i unplugged the maf. im thinking fuel pump or massive vacumn leak. any other suggestions would be great its my daily driver and i need it up and running asap.

I'd say vacuum leak for sure, possible fuel pump issue. You can rent a fuel pressure tester, there is an EASILY accessible port on the front of the fuel rail, takes 5 minutes to test.

I'd get a smoke test done too, or at least remove all the intake tract from the MAF to throttle body and check for cracks/holes.

Easy and effective first steps in troubleshooting.

Did a fuel pressure test. It was very shaky at idle around 45-48psi and when I shut the engine off pressure plummeted. Also with just the pump on it would not read higher than 30 psi and would slowly drop. After this test I decided to go ahead and replace the pump. It's much more responsive but if plug in the maf it starts to idle rougher and rougher till the engine stalls. Going to check intake hoses and disa seal tomorrow.

Originally Posted by tae314

Did a fuel pressure test. It was very shaky at idle around 45-48psi and when I shut the engine off pressure plummeted. Also with just the pump on it would not read higher than 30 psi and would slowly drop. After this test I decided to go ahead and replace the pump. It's much more responsive but if plug in the maf it starts to idle rougher and rougher till the engine stalls. Going to check intake hoses and disa seal tomorrow.

Sounds a lot like a bad MAF.

If it's the MAF, these may help the OP:
- Cleaning your mass air flow (MAF) sensor (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) and how 'not' to clean your MAF (1) & buying a replacement MAF cheaper than the BMW MAF (RangeRover MAF) (VW MAF) (Hyundai MAF) & MAF resistance testing (1)