Oil leaks on 2005 645

I would say that this is an 8 hour job. It is a PITA to do. Some Indy's will do it for around 500to 700 dollars, but probably not many. It is adventure just to find some of the hidden bolts!

Originally Posted by HerbP

Oil cover gasket start failing around 50k miles. You might have gotten this car at a good price, but these toys are expensive to maintain. If you can do the work yourself, it gets a lot cheaper! Keep your mechanic accountable for his mistakes!


Good luck!

Amen to that! I wonder why these gaskets start failing right when the warranty is up? Is it profit motive?

I suspect that the material that BMW uses, are prone to fail in a certain heat cycle. The extended oil changes at 15k miles probably helps cause the oil to oxidize more rapidly, causing an acidic change in the oil. I think that this is also effecting premature valve seal failures?

Just my opinion!

I agree. My engine bay stays extremely hot due to lack of airflow. The air that blows through the radiator cools down the engine but not the surrounding engine bay. Most of my seals were cracked around the outside from all of the engine heat and time. Since I have had this vehicle I have been trying to figure out an easy cost effective way to cool the engine bay This seems like it would help out in making the seals last longer.

Hey everyone. I'm having the same problem with the ifth bolt on the timing cover gasket. It appears that the bolt is located behind the alternator bracket. Is there an easy way to get this out without removing the alternator bracket or do I need to remove the alternator bracket in order to get out the last bolt on the timing cover. I read and it seems like there is a way to do it. Any help will be appreciated
Thanks

I am not sure which bolt you are talking about, but I do not remember having to remove the alternator bracket to get the cover off. Below is a pic of the cover gaskets. I do not know if this will help, but it is below. Have you removed the valve cover?

http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E6...r_timing_case/

Thanks for replying. Yes I took the valve cover off. On the pic u sent. If u start from left side, it's the bolt number 5 and 6 . hard to get to them . so is there an easy way to get to them. I read that I have to loosen the alternator to clear it. Is that correct or there is another way. Also is there any DIY for it or TIS. I know I'm asking for so much. Thanks

Here is a copy of the TIS doc.

Good Luck!

Thanks man. U the best

Hope it helps!

I believe that I took out my alternator. For the 15 minutes it took it was well worth the time

I will start on it as soon as I get home. Thanks for the help. In the diagram all the bolts seem accessible but on my 650, the lower 2 bolts r somehow blocked by alternator. One of them even hidden. When I get home, I will take a pic, hopefully it will show it. I'm new to the DIY. But I have to start somewhere since my mechanic wouldn't work on BMW anymore. And stealer charging too much lol. So bear with me guys. I can use all the help from u guys. I have a friend who comes to help me. He is not bad mechanic but never worked on BMW before. How hard is it to change alternator bracket gasket ? Since my baby is leaking from valve cover gasket, timing cover gasket, vacuum pump gasket, alternator bracket gasket.
Hey. U said u took the alternator out. I attempted to loosen the 2 5/8 bolts that holds it. It is loosen but it seems like there is what appears as bracket in the way.did u just took the alternator out or u had to take both alternator and the bracket underneath it out?
Also, I know I'm asking too much but do u have TIS for alternator bracket gasket replacement?
Thanks in advance

Here is a pic of the bolt I was talking about. sorry for the oil, I will clean it as soon as i get it out lol
anyway, I hope the pics help

OK, I took the belt tensioner off for space, in this pic u can see the alternator and what appear as a bracket. I loosened the alternator for for some how it won't come off. i took 2 bots off. is there anything else holding the alternator? Can i get to the timing Gasket without having top take this bracket off?
thanks

The alternator will come off, but you must remove the battery cable from the 2 clips. To make this much easier, remove the motor mount bolt & raise the engine with a jack. There is only 1 bolt to remove. Raise the engine with a floor jack, & a block of wood. Only raise the engine a couple of inches. Do not keep jacking the jack up to high. When the motor stops raising up, stop at this point. The alternator bracket does not need to come off.

Good Luck!

A new change. I will start with the passenger side. Then alternator bracket gasket and while the bracket gasket is off I will change the timing cover gasket. I don't know if that's the best way or not. Anyway, do I need to put rtv sealant on all gaskets or just on alternator Bracket gasket and the part of valve cover gasket that showing in TIS only?
Is there TIS for alternator bracket gasket?
?
Thanks in advance

I have never found a TIS for the alternator gasket. Below I will give you a diagram of the bolt layout. There is one bolt on the power steering pump, that is a 5mm hex bolt. If you jack the engine up, & remove the drivers side fender well, you will have better ease getting to the bolt. The alternator gasket is around 6 to8 hours depending on your luck. You might be better off jacking the car up on jack stands, to keep from killing your back. This way you won't hurt the back so bad. I have found it better to have a telescopic magnet to help install & remove bolts. Be care when removing the 4 engine motor mount bracket. The 2 rear bolts can be accessed from the rear, the 2 front bolts will have to be removed with a wrench. A normal socket will not slide in the hole.

Good Luck!

http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E6...ounting_parts/

thanks man. i really appreciate the help. i will let u guys know how that goes lol
I will be so glad when it is over lol.
btw, what about the rtv silicone, do i need to use it on the timing cover gaskets or not?
and about the valve cover, do i use it on all the valve cover ot just the part shown in tis?
thanks

The silicone needs to be applied at any metal joint on the valve cover areas. If you need a TIS, let me know. The timing cover areas do not really need any. You can apply some silicone to hold the valve cover gasket in place during installation. Applying to much to the grooved are can keep the VC from seating all of the way. I probably can pull up some pics of either job if needed. I just got through doing the alternator o-ring last week on my 750. It has a lot more room for this job. You might want to get a few extra valve cover tightening nuts, in case you round one off. There are 2 different sizes. You might also want to purchase some new motor mount bracket bolts, that replace the current bolts. A hex head bolt is much easier to torque.


Good Luck

the passenger valve cover had a broken piece and i had to order a new one. So i guess that solves the bolts. and the mechanic I used before broke one of the camshaft sensors. i just found out about it when i start my DIY. and the closest BMW dealer here in west Texas is a straight rub off lol. I decided to change the solenoid O rings and injectors O rings since i'm taking it off and i end up paying almost 300 dollars for few O rings lol
The valve Cover came in today, I already put the timing cover and vacuum pump back on after changing the gaskets and O rings. I tried to follow the instructions about the torque. we will see how that goes lol.
And yes, please. if u have pics of changing alternator bracket gasket, I would appreciate that.
I'm gonna put the passenger valve cover on tomorrow, then i will start on the alternator gasket, and while the bracket off, i will be able to reach the bottom 2 bolts on the driver's timing cover.
so if u have pics and notes on how to do it, I will be so grateful to have it. u been great help. thanks man.
I used a little bit of silicone on the timing cover to hold it. not much. I used torque ratchet, and tried to keep it between 15-20 ft lbs. I don't know if that's the exact torque but I had torque sheet. so if u think i need to change it, let me know
thanks

Here are some of the TIS documents. I will try to get some pics for you tomorrow. Make sure to change the oil pressure switch while you can get to it easily. They are famous for leaking. You will learn to appreciate German technology after all this is done. I am guessing that the back Eccentric sensor is the one that got broke. This is only a 400 to 500.00 sensor. I will attach the documents for your use. The parts breakdown that I will attach is good for viewing parts & bolt location. Just browse that site for help.

Good Luck!

http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E6...haft_actuator/

thanks man for ur help. the eccentric shaft sensor is the round sensor. there r 2 other sensors around it. the mechanic broke one of the little sensors. on the site u gave me, they call it Pulse generator, camshaft number 6
I was gonna change the ignition coil support, the plastic part number 9 in the diagram
the dealer in west texas wanted like 68 bucks a piece lol. I said NO thanks
http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E6...ounting_parts/

It is good that it was not the Eccentric Shaft Sensor. Here are all of the torque values.

a stupid question, is M6 or M8 referring to size as 6MM and 8mm or what?
thanks

The M6 is the metric diameter of the bolt. Get a bolt gauge from Lowes, & you can measure the bolt size, thread size, & length to make sure. You simply stick the bolt in the correct hole, to determine the size. Then you can check the torque spec based on that. It also helps you in drawings to determine what bolt goes where! The bolts can have 6 different head sizes, but have the same diameter.

Hope this helps!