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E34 (1989 - 1995)

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  #1  
Old 01-15-2013, 01:58 PM
ThoreauHD ThoreauHD is offline
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Castrol update

I just wanted to let folks know that Castrol STP synth is now BMW LL-01 certified. There's a buy one get one free sale at advance auto for January. The weight that I bought was 5w-40. I didn't check if the other weights were certified. Sorry.

None of this is on BMW or Castrol's website. But it's now the first certification listing on the new bottles. Price was $35 for 8 qts, which is a far cry from my usual $80 on amsoil or redline.

Just thought you should know in case you see an oil change on the horizon. Take care.

Last edited by ThoreauHD; 01-15-2013 at 02:01 PM.
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  #2  
Old 01-18-2013, 06:31 AM
Tyannt Tyannt is offline
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  #3  
Old 01-18-2013, 07:49 AM
MySatinDoll MySatinDoll is offline
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meh... my dino runs on stegosaurus bones.
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  #4  
Old 01-18-2013, 04:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MySatinDoll
meh... my dino runs on stegosaurus bones.
Wait until the first time you take the head off your beloved M30. Big 'ol rotten tar boogers when you go to pull the head bolts. The smell will knock you clean off your feet.

Then there's the party going on in timing chain cover, behind the ends of the camshafts, and how just many overheats has the motor seen in it's lifetime?

...Dino? I don't normally discuss oil, but it's 2013 and syn just makes plain sense...just sayin
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  #5  
Old 01-18-2013, 06:23 PM
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_Ethrty-Andy_ _Ethrty-Andy_ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Radian View Post
...Dino? I don't normally discuss oil, but it's 2013 and syn just makes plain sense...just sayin
But the engine was designed in the late 80s for delivery in early 90s models.
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  #6  
Old 01-18-2013, 06:46 PM
snowsled7 snowsled7 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _Ethrty-Andy_ View Post
But the engine was designed in the late 80s for delivery in early 90s models.
I do not belive the engines were designed specifically for lesser oils. New oils do everything old ones do and more. There is zero advantage to running dino other than price.
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  #7  
Old 01-18-2013, 07:44 PM
MySatinDoll MySatinDoll is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Radian View Post
Wait until the first time you take the head off your beloved M30. Big 'ol rotten tar boogers when you go to pull the head bolts. The smell will knock you clean off your feet.
Well unless you bought it brand new and have been running the engine since conception on syn oils they all will have those Big 'ol Tar boogers. So that's an irrelevant statement.

BTW Just for giggles I had pulled the head not too long ago in preperation for a turbo build.
You know to make sure everything was up to snuff and able to handle what I throw at it. Funny thing... pretty clean, no sludge, no work needed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Radian View Post
Then there's the party going on in timing chain cover, behind the ends of the camshafts, and how just many overheats has the motor seen in it's lifetime?
This guy must think I'm a rookie. Don't let the post count fool you.

Maybe your m30 was not well taken care of which is why your interjecting with observations from your vehicle. If that's what you experienced then thats messed up.
But you see. I've taken care of my car. To the point where I've basically brought it back to spec from a literal rust bucket (yep I have pics if you want to see).

So I appreciate the heads up. But the attempt to poke and jab isn't necessary.

Now to answer your overheating question...Zero overheating, head nor block is out of spec or showing evidence of stress. Still strong. .

Quote:
Originally Posted by Radian View Post
...Dino? I don't normally discuss oil, but it's 2013 and syn just makes plain sense...just sayin
Well that's my choice. If your happy running syn. Good for you. I run dino and my car is happy. If I had a newer car.Then yeah I'd run syn oil. But not necessary in my case.

Cheers.

If I took your statement the wrong way.
My bad (my son has the flu, I've been tending to him since he's been home... my patience is razor thin right now).

But again it's my choice of oils.
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Every once in a while the Lion has to show the Jackals who he is...
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95 e34 525 5 spd S52 Swap... The new Garden State Grocery Getter projekt.

Last edited by MySatinDoll; 01-18-2013 at 08:10 PM.
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  #8  
Old 01-18-2013, 07:45 PM
MySatinDoll MySatinDoll is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowsled7 View Post
I do not belive the engines were designed specifically for lesser oils. New oils do everything old ones do and more. There is zero advantage to running dino other than price.
There isn't sled. Just my choice.
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  #9  
Old 01-19-2013, 05:56 AM
snowsled7 snowsled7 is offline
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No offense to my friend Andy but, I just don't understand the argument about old engines only needing old oil designs. Even brand new engines will run fine on dino but, they will almost always run longer, regardless of age or design, on a good synthetic.

Now in our M30 cars, the engine may outlast the rest of the car so it may be pointless to spend the extra on synthetics but, I am a firm believer in their distinct advantages over dino.

To each his own for sure. Fact is, oil choice almost never kills an engine. Lack of maint. will though. Change it with whatever makes you feel good
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  #10  
Old 01-19-2013, 07:34 AM
MySatinDoll MySatinDoll is offline
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Sorry if I was over the top yesterday fellas.
My patience was questionable yesterday out of my concern for my little man.

So I'll start over.

Yes syn oils are a definite technological improvement for vehicles.
My car doesn't get much road action (possibly 3000miles every 6 to 8 months)
However I do oil changes roughly every season or every 3 to 4 months (depending)
This being the case I really wouldn't see the advantages of a syn oil like others would.

Which is why I've stuck with regular conventional oils.
Now if this was a newer bmw. Definitely synthetic oils.

Sorry if I previously had sound like a Douche canoe.
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Every once in a while the Lion has to show the Jackals who he is...
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95 e34 525 5 spd S52 Swap... The new Garden State Grocery Getter projekt.

Last edited by MySatinDoll; 01-19-2013 at 07:38 AM.
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  #11  
Old 01-19-2013, 08:06 AM
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Monsignor Monsignor is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowsled7 View Post
Even brand new engines will run fine on dino
Nope. Theres parts of the system that are different. My dads 05 1.8T passat uses synth from the factory. He topped it off with a half quart of my dino elixir and it gummed up the entire top end and his pump. Needed all 4 plugs, coil packs, gaskets and a thorough cleaning,

My z came with dino piddle from the factory and I started using synth. It would pass through the pcv much easier and get burnt up in the combustion chamber, and it got so exponentially worse under load. It coated and sank into my intake plenum amd runners. A bitch to clean it all out. Im back on the conventional amd no issues. I clean out my oil catch can 5x fewer.

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  #12  
Old 01-19-2013, 01:07 PM
snowsled7 snowsled7 is offline
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My old 535 runs great on 0w-40 full synth. No leaks and has used about 1/4 qt over the last 5000 miles. It is due for its sixth change under my care, no idea what went through it for the first 150k.

I have gone back and forth between oils on dozens of vehicles and never experienced any issues with either, or the fact that I switched from one to the other.

Those VW's have an engine heat issue the way I understand it. They are well known for cooking oil and sludging up. I guess you had better use synth to combat the heat but I do not see this as designed to take advantage of oil but a band-aid for mistakes.

I will not bring up your Z because I understand you are sensitive about it and I am trying to play nice around here these days

I wouldn't run dino in a newer car, I don't run it in my old one. I even pay $40/gal for synth 2-stroke oil for my sled. I do know from experience that there are plenty of cars which will tolerate either just fine but, obviously some cars have a preference.

The only oil related issue I ever had, in a 50 vehicle history, was my old restored Buick. I ran synth in the freshly rebuilt 455. The carb tuning was a little off and the camshaft pretty radical so fuel dilution probably caused a spun rod bearing. I understand that dino tolerates fuel dilution better than synth. Synthetic may have contributed to a failure on that dinosaur aged design. So that helps make your point.

Not much point in trying to defend my statement though because I prefer synthetic and wouldn't try running dino in a car spec'd for synthetic. I can and do run synthetic in a car spec'd for dino. Thanks for the catch.
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  #13  
Old 01-19-2013, 05:17 PM
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My z just got a fancy new mishimoto (sponsorship perk) oil cooler today. 5 hour installation. To help combat the cooking oil. Its a race car with a catalytic converter essentially. Ive put 2500 miles on it in 2012. Everytime it goes out, motor, tranny, diff, and tires get a good workout. It used to be for drifting but I grew up.

Ill report back on running synth through it with the oil cooler.


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  #14  
Old 01-19-2013, 10:20 PM
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BMWFatherFigure BMWFatherFigure is offline
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At a Castrol Tech night I went to the nice man said run it on whatever was recomended at the time vehicle of manufacture - I stick to that. I do changes at half the recomended intervals. That said - lack of changes will kill an engine no matter what oil is used. Regular changes for the win!!
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  #15  
Old 01-20-2013, 06:46 AM
snowsled7 snowsled7 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWFatherFigure View Post
At a Castrol Tech night I went to the nice man said run it on whatever was recomended at the time vehicle of manufacture - I stick to that. I do changes at half the recomended intervals. That said - lack of changes will kill an engine no matter what oil is used. Regular changes for the win!!
The only problem I see with using what was originally reccomended is that they don't make the oils that were reccomended anymore. In the last 20 years since my car was built the API ratings have changed probably 5 times, meaning formulations have changed that many times to keep up with the new standards. The oils specified for these cars simply do not exist anymore, not in the formulations they had back then anyway.

So yes, change it hot, change it often.
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  #16  
Old 01-20-2013, 11:49 AM
TR6guy TR6guy is offline
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Synth vs. Dino... If it doesn't have rollers, you need the ZDDP (the slippery stuff) that API has been taking OUT a bit at a time. They say it shortens the catalytic converter life. ZDDP (aka STP oil additive Blue bottle) can be added to older no-cat engines. Tech bulletins from Competition Cams confirm failures on new cams running new API oils.
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  #17  
Old 01-21-2013, 05:15 AM
snowsled7 snowsled7 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TR6guy View Post
Synth vs. Dino... If it doesn't have rollers, you need the ZDDP (the slippery stuff) that API has been taking OUT a bit at a time. They say it shortens the catalytic converter life. ZDDP (aka STP oil additive Blue bottle) can be added to older no-cat engines. Tech bulletins from Competition Cams confirm failures on new cams running new API oils.
There are published zddp numbers for pretty much all oils. The Mobil 1 european forumla I use has one of the higher zddp counts of the modern oils. There is a balance for me as my car has both a cat convertor and solid tappets. With the valves adjusted properly my engine is silky smooth and quiet.

Mobil 1 chart showing zinc levels... 0w-40 @ 1100 and BMW approved
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...duct_Guide.pdf
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  #18  
Old 01-21-2013, 05:22 AM
kmorgan_260 kmorgan_260 is offline
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Originally Posted by snowsled7 View Post
i do not belive the engines were designed specifically for lesser oils. New oils do everything old ones do and more. There is zero advantage to running dino other than price.
+1
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  #19  
Old 01-21-2013, 06:52 AM
TR6guy TR6guy is offline
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Zddp

Quote:
Originally Posted by snowsled7 View Post
There are published zddp numbers for pretty much all oils. The Mobil 1 european forumla I use has one of the higher zddp counts of the modern oils. There is a balance for me as my car has both a cat convertor and solid tappets. With the valves adjusted properly my engine is silky smooth and quiet.

Mobil 1 chart showing zinc levels... 0w-40 @ 1100 and BMW approved
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...duct_Guide.pdf
Only acceptable ZDDP content in a synthetic I've heard of was NON API rated Redline.
U.S. formula Mobil1 was specifically listed as " not enough " ZDDP for flat tappet engines.
My info is a few years old. I have a '71 TR6 that is used to LOTS of STP in with the Dino oil.
Cheers!
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  #20  
Old 01-21-2013, 06:56 AM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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And so, the oil debate rages on
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  #21  
Old 01-21-2013, 07:23 AM
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  #22  
Old 01-21-2013, 05:40 PM
snowsled7 snowsled7 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TR6guy View Post
Only acceptable ZDDP content in a synthetic I've heard of was NON API rated Redline.
U.S. formula Mobil1 was specifically listed as " not enough " ZDDP for flat tappet engines.
My info is a few years old. I have a '71 TR6 that is used to LOTS of STP in with the Dino oil.
Cheers!
Did you READ the link I posted?

The "acceptable" number I see tossed around is 1200 ppm. The M1 euro (sold at walmart) is at 1100 compared to 750-900 for most of their oils. They also have a couple racing formulations at 1200 and 1300 ppm of zinc.

It has absolutely NOTHING to do with synthetic or dino since zddp is an additive.
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Last edited by snowsled7; 01-21-2013 at 05:41 PM.
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  #23  
Old 01-21-2013, 07:37 PM
rdorman rdorman is offline
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Interesting. Please present source. As you pointed out, Castrol nor BMW says anything about it. Considering what it takes to get a manufactures approval, I would be shouting it from the roof tops! The European Syntec 0W-30 is approved. FYI, neither Amsoil nor Redline, although they both make good products, is approved LL-01. Then again there is the whole 'meets' or 'exceeds' versus 'approved' very, very tired debate!
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  #24  
Old 01-21-2013, 10:42 PM
MySatinDoll MySatinDoll is offline
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What it boils down to (excuse the pun) is personal preference, vehicle usage, weight, and the almighty dollar.

People are going to swear by what is better till their eyeballs bleed and excrete vital body fluids out of their lower extremities.
The average person will disregard or lack the knowledge of any facts related to either oil or the additives.
They usually go with what they're told at the stealership where they bought their BMW.

Some TV ad with a corvette or something fast driving around a open track or road.
Which usually ends with the driver driving into the sunset or to some hot chick blowing kisses as her air magically flows around her shoulders.

Or some random car mag ad showing a modified or semi stock sports car and go with that.

Then you have the few who view it all as a inconvenience and drop their jalopy off at stiffy lube and top off.

I can appreciate how this conversation has progressed.
Carry on.
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  #25  
Old 01-22-2013, 04:13 AM
TR6guy TR6guy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowsled7 View Post
Did you READ the link I posted?

The "acceptable" number I see tossed around is 1200 ppm. The M1 euro (sold at walmart) is at 1100 compared to 750-900 for most of their oils. They also have a couple racing formulations at 1200 and 1300 ppm of zinc.

It has absolutely NOTHING to do with synthetic or dino since zddp is an additive.
Yes i did...
According to SAE Tech bulletin# 770087, Any flat tappet engine will need more ZDDP than is supplied in ANY API rated oil since 1993.
They started reducing ZDDP From 0.15% by volume to 0.075% (as of 2004) in 1988.
Reason: The zink that is emitted into exhaust streams shortens the life of cats. The useful life standard is 150k (2009) as set by EPA.
Cordially...
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