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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 01-10-2013, 11:36 PM
damisco damisco is offline
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99 540i still smoking after CCV, VCG & Plugs

Hi everyone
After changing my CCV, VCG, 0W40 Mobil1 fully synthetic European formula oil and NGK OEM spark Plugs, my 99 540i with 120,000 Mi still smokes at every start now, and once noticed clouds after me at the green light. I changed the spark plugs yesterday and noticed oil on some plugs ( on plugs body not on the bottom end of the plugs) but did not see any oil leak leading to the wells, also got a P1351 faulty code Cyl 5 misfire with fual cut off so I swapped the coil with my friend 528i coil and found out the coil is out. I ordered a new Beck Arnley coil online I will be putting that coil on Saturday.
Does anyone have any idea about this issue or should I take this bimmer to an Specialist German Auto repair shop for a full diagnostic no matter how much the cost would be cause owning an old bimmer means breaking the bank and I am still a bimmer lover but the sad part is my co-workers always tell me why would u buy a car that costs money and breaks down easily and costs too much money to repair and I always respond back home is really cheap to repair these cars than American cars but the reality is I live in the US.

Any idea or advice is appreciated, still stay strong and hopeful because of you guys
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  #2  
Old 01-11-2013, 12:37 AM
Reuvers Reuvers is offline
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sounds like an obvious case of leaking valve covers. Very common on the 540i
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  #3  
Old 01-11-2013, 12:44 AM
damisco damisco is offline
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thank you, but the valve cover gasket was changed a week ago , so do you think it was not done well or if you know what else can cause the oil leaking down the plugs well
I appreciate this
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  #4  
Old 01-11-2013, 01:15 AM
Reuvers Reuvers is offline
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Were the rubber grommets, which sit under the nuts, changed when the covers were done? They are what supposively (spelling??) keep oil away from the spark plugs. They become brittle by the constant heat of the covers. They can thus not be reused
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  #5  
Old 01-21-2013, 04:28 PM
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diggyd357 diggyd357 is offline
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Let us know what you find out.... i have same issue with 97 528i. Only I haven't done vcg yet .
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  #6  
Old 01-21-2013, 09:09 PM
damisco damisco is offline
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Hi there
I am still trying to figure out the issue. But I came cross this on bavauto.com (The BMW M60 and M62 V8 engines do have a common issue with vacuum leakage at the throttle body mounting plate to intake manifold junction. Engine heat causes the lower part of the gasket to dry, shrink and crack, allowing a vacuum leak. This applies to all V8 models (except M5) from 1993 through 2001 (540i, 740i, 740il, 840i, 840ci, X5, Z8), plus 5-series (540i) and X5 through the mid 2000s.

The gasket between the throttle body mounting plate and the front of the intake manifold is easy to replace. On models up through '98, the throttle body and the mounting plate are cast as one piece and there is just one gasket between the plate and the manifold. Models from '99-on have a separate aluminum throttle body that is mounted to a plastic mounting plate. The mounting plate gasket is the one that generally causes the vacuum leaks but we recommend replacing the throttle body gasket as well.

The gasket is easy to replace, simply remove the six bolts that secure the mounting plate to the front of the intake manifold and pull the throttle body and plate off. Remove the gasket, install a new one and reinstall the assembly. On the later models, also remove the four bolts that secure the throttle body to the mounting plate and remove and replace the smaller throttle body gasket.

For the proper throttle body and mounting plate gaskets, call our advisers at 800-535-2002 or go to our online store by clicking the links below.

Gasket for throttle body to manifold, for most models through '98
and throttle body mounting plate to manifold, for most models 99 through mid-2000s:

Gasket for throttle body to mounting plate, for most models 99 through mid-2000s)
And after a vacuum leak test spraying carburetor cleaner around the all intake bay while the engine is running and found out a leak also my steering fluid is leaking down all around the intake bay it could be the power steering fluid getting to system through the gasket leak, but anyway I am doing both gasket on Saturday and keep you posted.
Make sure you check all around the engine for any oil leak, also pull couple of plugs to see if they oil on them
I hope that helps even though it is abook reading
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  #7  
Old 01-21-2013, 11:18 PM
JasonSC540ia JasonSC540ia is offline
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I just replaced my CCV for preventive maintenance. After I replaced it with one of those $40 ones it had the symtoms of a failed CCV (howling, extreme suction sound when dipstick pulled). I replaced just the back cover and diaphragm with another one. Failed CCV symtoms gone. Further inspection reviled this, on the "new" CCV diaphragm.



If you bought a non OEM one and your still showing signs of failed CCV, might be something to look at.

Last edited by JasonSC540ia; 01-22-2013 at 02:15 AM.
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  #8  
Old 01-21-2013, 11:27 PM
damisco damisco is offline
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Thank you Jason, so how can I test for CCV failure
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  #9  
Old 01-22-2013, 12:02 AM
damisco damisco is offline
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More question Jason, did they remove the intake manifold cover to replace CCV or they just did from the back and besides the CCV and Gasket did u change anything else while changing the CCV, I might have to put a new OEM CCV this time.
Thanks
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  #10  
Old 01-22-2013, 01:19 AM
JasonSC540ia JasonSC540ia is offline
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I pulled the manifold and changed manifold gaskets, front and rear cover manifold gaskets. It was just preventive mx, but after I installed the "new" CCV I had failed CCV symptoms. Those symptoms are, but not limited too, smoke at start or decellerating, howling sound, extreme suction sound and change in howling noise when dipstick is pulled, and $hitty mpg. I didnt have any smoke out of the exhuast but i had the noise, suction and bad mpg. This past weekend I just swapped the diaphragm and cover on the CCV. All symptoms gone, and mpg back up.
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  #11  
Old 01-22-2013, 02:00 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonSC540ia View Post
Further inspection reviled this, one the "new" CCV diaphragm.
I'm adding your observations here so others benefit:
- What BMW E39 parts & supplies are most often recommended to buy OEM from a dealer or sponsor (1)

Quote:
Originally Posted by damisco View Post
Thank you Jason, so how can I test for CCV failure
Why not start here?
- How to test the crankcase ventilation (aka CCV, CVV, PCV, CPV, & OSV) pressure regulating valve system (1)
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Note: Your mission, should you decide to accept it, is to add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need, in seconds!
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  #12  
Old 01-22-2013, 09:54 AM
damisco damisco is offline
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Thank you so much. I go from there and keep u posted
thanks again
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  #13  
Old 01-22-2013, 10:17 AM
damisco damisco is offline
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Can u tell me what the diaphragm is Jason
Thanks
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  #14  
Old 01-23-2013, 02:08 AM
JasonSC540ia JasonSC540ia is offline
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The diaphragm you see is the inside of the CCV valve. Common problem on E38's and E39's M62 and M62tu engines. It opens and closes with intake vacuum releiving crack case pressure. If it fails oil will get sucked into your intake manifold causing burnt oil/smoke comeing out of your exhuast. The picture I took was a CCV that was less then a month old. Must of got pinched during assembly at the factory.

You said in your first post that you changed the CCV. All Im saying is, I just changed mine with a new one a month ago, and I had failed CCV issues after installing the new one. So if you bought a cheap CCV, as I did, its possiable you might have the same thing.
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  #15  
Old 01-23-2013, 05:26 AM
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Topaz540i Topaz540i is offline
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If you bought Oro brand i already know the problem.
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  #16  
Old 01-23-2013, 11:19 AM
damisco damisco is offline
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I got u Jason thanks a lot, I will be doing the CCV work next month, cuz I doing the power pressure line and the power steering reservoir this Saturday, I keep you posted thanks again
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  #17  
Old 01-23-2013, 11:24 AM
damisco damisco is offline
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Hi Topaz it is Meyle CCV, I purchased from fcpeuro.com so are u familiar with Meyle Products, the car sounds better now than the old original it had when u crank it. Can u direct me to any OEM site.
Thanks
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  #18  
Old 01-23-2013, 05:59 PM
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Ltmax Ltmax is offline
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One of my 540I's had the same problem and after changing every gasket on the top half of the engine, and a bunch of other parts, it turned out to be the oil separator valve inside the drivers side timing cover wasn't working. Instead of spending a fortune replacing it, I added a 42 Draft Design's oil catch can (thanks to some great tips from this forum) and it hasn't smoked a bit ever since. Cost less than $150 in parts and just a few hours of labor to fix it forever.
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  #19  
Old 01-23-2013, 06:46 PM
damisco damisco is offline
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Thanks Ltmax, I am going to take the bimmer to a bmw specialist shop for a full diagnostic and then start from there.
Any idea that OSV work might cost, how deep u need to go to get to it?
I appreciate your help
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  #20  
Old 01-23-2013, 07:00 PM
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Ltmax Ltmax is offline
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If it's the OSV that needs to be changed the entire front of the engine needs to come apart and the timing chain covers and chain need to be removed to get to it. Cost runs in the thousands of $$. Some posts say that you can do it without removing all that stuff but I can't see how that's possible.

The catch can procedure is explained very well here:

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...1610177&page=3

It's actually not that hard to do, will save you a ton of $$ compared to replacing the OSV, and the catch can will function just as good (or better) than the original system.

I mounted mine next to the radiator right above the oil return line that drains the oil filter assembly, so connecting the drain line from the catch can to the oil filter drain line was simple. It came out looking great, and works like a charm.
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  #21  
Old 01-23-2013, 07:19 PM
damisco damisco is offline
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Thanks Ltmax I will ask my indy about it
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  #22  
Old 01-23-2013, 08:15 PM
damisco damisco is offline
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Hi Ltmax, do u know if both upper timing cover need to come off to get to OSV or only the upper also parts I need to change while I am there.
Thanks a lot
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  #23  
Old 01-24-2013, 03:02 PM
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Ltmax Ltmax is offline
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The OSV is on the drivers side of the engine, when you remove the upper left timing chain cover on the drivers side you can see it tucked behind all the timing chain components.

As far as what's involved swapping it out, since I haven't done this job there may be a few folks here who can give you a better idea of what's involved.

From the looks of it, it's not a job that anyone without a bunch of mechanical skills should try to do themselves and with the double VANOS setup, you'll definitely need to purchase or rent some special tools in order to do the job.

That's why even with 30+ years of turning wrenches, to me it looked like way too much work to get rid of that little puff of blue smoke on startup when a few hours installing a catch can did the same thing.
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  #24  
Old 01-24-2013, 09:55 PM
damisco damisco is offline
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Ok thanks Ltmax, I am not doing this work myself no way. I don't dig more the VCG, but I have a mechanic who charges me half price of the dealership, I just have to buy parts and bargain the labor with him.
Thanks a lot for your time I really appreciate it.
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  #25  
Old 01-26-2013, 01:28 PM
damisco damisco is offline
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Hi Ltmax, I opened my throttle body today and I noticed this hard hose with a black head floating inside the intake manifold the front part is disconnected and the back is holding, it can be turned around but stuck at the back, did not have time to open the intake manifold today. What could that hose be, a lot of oik in the intake too probably due to the disconnected hose
Thanks
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