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Old 01-23-2013, 11:23 AM
HPIA4v2 HPIA4v2 is offline
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Originally Posted by E92-Lighting View Post
we have LED angel eyes that produces over 1000 lumens
Hesus, you can go blind doing that
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Old 01-23-2013, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by HPIA4v2 View Post
Don't want to sound like a party pooper, but puting H7 (55W or higher) onto H8 (35w max) will increase temp inside the headlamps. I heard someone melt the headlamp assembly going all out trying to make the angel-eye super bright, yep filing off the bayonet wing on H7 bulbs.

I just not going to risk that, Like I said on eBay someone is selling H8 20W LED for a pair for $80 shipped. These LED is more efficient prooducing light with less heat. Remember 20W is dissipated heat not a measurement of light output. 55W incandescent bulb may produce less light than 20W LED bulb. you need to talk about Lumen/Candle as measurement unit to find out which bulbs is brighter not wattage.
Glad you've read ALL my posts on this matter. I did this mod almost a year ago and there has been NO ill effects. I use my angle eys as DRL so they're on all the time.

Current draw is about 1.4 amps more (using Ohm's law), well within the safe range of the wire's gauge, The headlight housings are metal, except for the access door (which would melt first) The diffuser and lens are both glass. I wasn't able to determine the composition of the ring or light pipe. The access doors don't feel warm even after being on for several hours. As a reference, my wife's hair dryer is 1875 watts so you can see how much difference 20 watts make heat wise. (20 watts = 11.8% of 1875 watts so you don't have to do the math)

I'm not going to get into 'perceived' vs. actual light output (which should be expressed in lumens) due to output temperature. X output at 4300K will "look" like more 'light' then the same output at 3400K and colors will be more accurate at 4300K.

An easy way to check light output (relatively) is with a SLR camera. Use manual mode and set the white balance for 'daylight' (5100K) and 'ISO' so you get a mid scale reading, say f 5.6 with spot metering on a light source. With the controls unchanged and at the same distance, check another light source. 1 stop increase is twice the reference light. A photograph will show where the light source is color wise in relationship to 'daylight'.

It's your car, do what you want with it. I'm just trying to point out, there are options to expensive 'common' parts that need to be ordered. Just because we drive a BMW doesn't mean we should get a nose bleed because we need a 'common' part. And LED's do fail from impact shock. Ever have to replace your tv's remote after you've dropped it because a $.50 650 nm LED failed?
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