Sensors NOT READY for a long time. Help.

Hi guys.

I have manual 2001 330xi. 94k miles.

I am trying to pass the smog test in california but few of my sensors (o2, catalytic, evap, and one other one) do not go to READY position after driving for hundreds of miles.

I researched a lot on the web and even did the proper drive cycle which is:

1. Turn the engine on when it's cold and just let it idle for 3min 15sec
2. Drive between 20 to 30mph for more than 3 min
3. Drive between 40 to 60 mph for 15 min
4. Let the car slowdown from 60 mph without using the brakes

My rpm never went higher than 3000. I never accelerated too fast.

I already drove for about 250 miles.


My registration is expired and I have no idea what to do now...

Any ideas?

I'm not positive but think it has more to do with drive cycles, rather than then number of miles. A drive cycle is starting from a cold car and going through warm up and then some mileage after. My uderstanding is it takes aboit 3 days of typical driving to have the systems 'ready' following a code clear.

I usually have short drives (10-20 miles) from home to work and school, so do you think i need to have longer drive cycles?

10-20 miles is more than long enough. The not ready issue is only if the codes have been cleared. If you did not do this you have another issue. Unfortuantely I would have no idea what that is. May need to seek professional help.

Yes I cleared the code after replacing the secondary air pump but I dont think that it should take more than 2 weeks for all sensors to go to READY position... very annoying.

10-20 highway miles or city?
It takes my car 10-20 highway miles to detect that there is a o2 simulator in the loop, and thats when it triggers the SES light.
How is this relevant to you?
When the car is fully warmed up and running the engine will run rich for a moment which is where the post cat and pre cat oxygen sensors must go into the rich voltage, if the post cat is not reading the rich voltage, your systems will not become ready and it may trigger a service engine soon light, and sometimes maybe not and will just sit in the car memory waiting to be pulled from a GT1.

A drive cycle is not just the distance you drive but the speed and time you are at that speed. here is the first drive cycle I came across. Most cars give or take are about the same. Now usaully you have to do three drive cycles. Inbetween each drive cycle let the veh sit atleast an hour.

I have a drive cycle manual specifically for the e46 but I ve done it only once. I guess I ll due few more times during the night.



Another question: my car makes sounds like a tractor especially when I release the gas pedal and let the engine slow down the car. it feels like there is a hole somewhere in the exhaust. Does anyone have any ideas of what that can be?

You might want to look at the BMW drive cycle in this document, page 9 - it shows idling for 5 minutes after the 40-60mph phase to test the Evap leak detection.
It is from the MS42 ECU, but the MS 43 should be very similar. It takes a minimum of 11 miles on a closely controlled dyno.

http://www.beisansystems.com/misc/SE...ROL_SYSTEM.pdf

Originally Posted by 01bmwxi

Another question: my car makes sounds like a tractor especially when I release the gas pedal and let the engine slow down the car. it feels like there is a hole somewhere in the exhaust. Does anyone have any ideas of what that can be?

Does it make any type of clacking sound, from the front (more specifically the engine compartment?)

A common timing gear failure symptom is clacking of the chain against the gear on deceleration of the car.

Originally Posted by shanneba

You might want to look at the BMW drive cycle in this document, page 9 - it shows idling for 5 minutes after the 40-60mph phase to test the Evap leak detection.
It is from the MS42 ECU, but the MS 43 should be very similar. It takes a minimum of 11 miles on a closely controlled dyno.

http://www.beisansystems.com/misc/SE...ROL_SYSTEM.pdf

Thank you!

Originally Posted by CDirks

Does it make any type of clacking sound, from the front (more specifically the engine compartment?)

A common timing gear failure symptom is clacking of the chain against the gear on deceleration of the car.

Yes! Driver side of the engine. It sounds like something is broken or loose there.

How expensive is to replace it?

Digging up an old thread.

Does the driving style need to be completed in succession? I assume not, as its very hard to find a driving area you can drive those parts in succession.

So am I right in thinking if over a few days i do each of the 'sections' outlined in the pdf I should be OK?

I took my car for SMOG a few days ago and only one sensor was ready.

And I did have the dreaded 'car is operating at reduced power' come on. It has started coming on when the engine is cold but I travel a short distance from home and stop at the lights. So once I reset this (engine off and on again), I assume I have to start the driving 'styles' again to get them ready for the test?

The SMOG place said they could keep the car for 2 days and prepare it properly, but want $120 for the privilege....

Very frustrated of Orange County!

So digging up this thread again.. same problem. 2004 325i 5 speed manual tranny.
300 miles later lots of city and highway and idle and not ****. systems not ready.

What did you guys do to fix it? thanks

Since the original OP is In Sacramento, I can definitely report that a 1996 to 2000 vehicle can pass smog with 2 monitors not ready but a 2001 to current vehicle can have only 1 monitor not ready and still pass smog tests.

For the record, I discussed the smog test readiness criteria and the California Drive Cycle with the ARB guys and reported the results here:
- It would be interesting to post smog emission results for our E39s (for comparison)

Originally Posted by bluebee

Last week, I had a long talk with Mike McCarthy (m+his-last-name@arb.ca.gov) about OBD codes in California.

Mike manages the CARB OBD program for California (626-771-3614).

He is a very knowledgeable guy who knows the entire history of FTP drive cycles, OBD test requrements, and smog test laws and regulations.

He provided more detail than I could handle (most of which went over my head), but, it's important to note that the legislature voted to allow OBD-only tests in California, but, the infrastructure won't be in place by January next year - and most likely won't be in place for a while.

Mike said 31 states do smog tests but California had to fight the EPA to do decentralized tests. The EPA wanted centralized tests - so California implemented the 'hybrid' system of 'test only' stations and 'test-and-repair stations' to meet the EPA requirements of centralization. For the past year, they have been rating smog test & smog test-and-repair stations, giving each a STAR rating.

Today, every two years you have to get a smog test at either a test-only station or at a test-and-repair station. But, he said, fraud is rampant, so they're going to mail you a note that requires you to go to a station with a high rating. The system isn't in place, but an example would be a five-star rating where in order to register, you can only go to a five-star rated test station. They are doing this to cut down on fraud.

Another thing he told me is that a California dyno smog test cycle is NOT the BMW FTP test, nor the federal FTP-75 test (details at http://dieselnet.com). It's a special shortened California-only version of the drive trace that works well on a dyno.

Mike also mentioned that it takes two cycles for a CEL to go on (first one gives the pending DTC); and it takes 3 complete drive cycles for the CEL to go out.

For more information, Mike suggested I contact smogcheck.ca.gov.

EDIT: For information on the OBD readiness monitors, I called the Department of Consumer affairs 800-952-5210 where you can actually talk to 'former mechanics' who are now 'technical advisors' or 'consumer assistance representatives' for the state of California who will discuss with you your smog test questions.

At the Department of Consumer Affairs, I spoke with "Marvin" who explained that, in California, a 1996 to 2000 vehicle can pass smog with 2 monitors not ready but that a 2001 to current vehicle can have only 1 monitor not ready and still pass smog tests. He said many technicians still fail the car because they want to have high STAR scores.

In addition, Marvin said that new OBD tests will check your air conditioning because they assume if your ac isn't working that you're leaking freon into the atmosphere just like they check your fuel system, again assuming vapors will leak out into the atmosphere. So it's not just engine emissions that are being monitored.

See also:
- How to better understand the key EPA federal test procedure (FTP) concept of the BMW SES "drive cycle" (1) & california_air_resource_board_federal_test_procedu re_and_the_california_unified_cycle.pdf

Thanks I'll check out the link right now. I live in Georgia and am trying to pass emissions. Yes same rule here. I can only have 1 not ready and still pass... I have 4 not ready.

Just read it cool cool, ill print out that sheet u have posted for the drive cycle and I'll go out and do it 3 times.

And edit: my registration expires tomorrow

And when I let the vehicle sit an hour between each cycle... do i turn it off or what? Thanks

Originally Posted by jmansour

Thanks I'll check out the link right now. I live in Georgia and am trying to pass emissions. Yes same rule here. I can only have 1 not ready and still pass... I have 4 not ready.

Just read it cool cool, ill print out that sheet u have posted for the drive cycle and I'll go out and do it 3 times.

And edit: my registration expires tomorrow

So is there any penalty for expired registration? I've let mine go for months before without issue and I think in the extremely rare chance you get pulled you can get the ticket dismissed if you get the inspection done within 30 days..... although that does give the authorities reason to pull you at any time which could be troublesome if you've stopped at the bar.

Originally Posted by jmansour

And when I let the vehicle sit an hour between each cycle... do i turn it off or what? Thanks

I asked that question myself, as to what a 'cold' engine is.
I don't remember offhand the exact answer, but it's in those threads I referenced.
From memory, it needs to be pretty cold (like a few hours), so, I do remember someone telling me overnight will always work. ...

Again, the best place to ask is in THOSE thread because that's what they're there for.
Good luck.

The important note is at the bottom - cycle is interrupted if rpm>3000 or speed > 60mph or large flux in accelerator pedal. So no spirited driving until the monitors set.