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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 09-16-2009, 08:39 AM
E39Convert E39Convert is offline
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Location: Manassas, VA
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 40
Mein Auto: 2002 540i w/Dinan Stage I
HVAC water valve with pump P/N: 64118374994

I replaced my water valve last night when I was flushing my coolant. The water valve was easy to replace since it is easily accessible from the top attached to the engine compartment side of the driver's side wheel well. Just make sure the engine is cool because your hands will be pressed against the engine while disconnecting the hoses and connectors.

You should drain the fluid first. I highly recommend that you take this opportunity to drain and replace your old coolant. Extremely cheap compared to the cost of an overheated engine. Make sure to drain the fluid from the block and from the radiator.
I couldn't remove the bolt from the driver side of the block so I used the passenger side bolt to drain the block.

Make sure you replace at least the washer around the bolt too. I opted to replace the bolt as well.

Parts 16, 17, & 18(x2):
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...24&hg=11&fg=10

My fluid was black and given the parts that were broken off of the pump and valves I decided that draining the whole system would be a good idea. I haven't changed the coolant since I bought the car last year so I'm not sure how long it was since it was changed.

The reason I decided to replace it was because my HVAC was sending out hot air no matter what I did.
When I turned the temp all the way down 60 F(below outside temp) and just turned the blower on with AC off and recirculate off it would blow hot air constantly.
When I would turn the AirCo on it would have to fight the hot air that was already coming through the system. So it would cool but it just wasn't as cool as it could be. I learned this the hard way on a hot day while I on a date and we just got back in the car after it was sitting in the sun. So this embarrassment in front of the girl pushed me to figure out and fix the problem asap.

Tischer had the best price I could find for a new OEM water valve.

Drawing (Part # 1):
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...94&hg=64&fg=18

I decided to open the valve up to see what happened. Here are the pictures from the inside of the water valve:




http://img441.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=09152009319.jpg

The rubber boots/gaskets were completely gone on one valve and partially gone on the other valve and the blades of the impeller were all broken and stuck inside the unit.

This might explain why the passenger side was hotter than the driver side. Since one valve (I'm guessing driver's side) had part of the gasket left it was blocking some of the hot water from passing but the other one wasn't blocking anything (guessing passenger's side).

Make sure to bleed the cooling system properly after changing the fluid.
Part 14 here:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...61&hg=17&fg=05

These are plastic vent screws and mine had recently broken so I had bought a new one. I would recommend that you replace this part since it is plastic and cheap compared to a new engine.
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  #2  
Old 09-16-2009, 08:47 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Location: Omaha NE
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 13,050
Mein Auto: 1998 528i 5-sp 140K+
It is amazing a hot date can push a man to be amazing.
Thanks for the pic.
Show the pic to your hot date, she will be so impressed.
"Look babe, no hands...hehe"...
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  #3  
Old 10-06-2012, 12:01 PM
iamthenomad iamthenomad is offline
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Location: Loveland, CO
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 12
Mein Auto: '85 520i euro & '91 318is
Bumping this thread from eternity, my heater valve thing started spewing coolant today, from the seal/gasket between the electric pump and the housing it bolts to. Since a new unit is $400, is there any way just to replace that gasket?

Thanks
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  #4  
Old 10-07-2012, 10:49 AM
E39Convert E39Convert is offline
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Location: Manassas, VA
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 40
Mein Auto: 2002 540i w/Dinan Stage I
That sounds like a great idea but I see a few problems:
- you would have to figure out how to buy the seals...I can't help on this one.
- from the looks of things getting the seals over the plungers/cones might be problematic and I'm not sure you can take it apart
- if your seals have failed it highly likely that the plastic fins on the pump are going to fail soon and those could ruin any new seals you might install

I would definitely recommend looking for the cheapest price unit and replacing the whole thing. In my experience with car repair plastic and rubber are the things that wear out soonest.
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  #5  
Old 10-07-2012, 01:29 PM
iamthenomad iamthenomad is offline
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Location: Loveland, CO
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 12
Mein Auto: '85 520i euro & '91 318is
Ok, I took my entire unit apart as well as a second unit from a parts car, I found an o-ring for the pump, I found the main problem area, fixed it, and re-installed, and so far it's working great. I took pics, so I will upload those later and give detailed descriptions on:

What the problem is
What a common failure point is (based on taking two identiocal units apart)
What I did to fix the problem
What ideas I came up with to simplify the unit, and not spend $400 on a new one
Other conclusions

So stay tuned!
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  #6  
Old 01-25-2013, 09:08 AM
rjjarvis rjjarvis is offline
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Location: Mclean, VA
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 10
Mein Auto: 2001 E39 540i6 Sport
Heater Control Valve for E39 540i

Hi, you were going to post pictures and information about repairing rather than replacing the HCV. Wonder if you have them, I'd be very interested in seeing them, since my HCV appears to be on the blink.

Thanks,
Ron
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  #7  
Old 01-25-2013, 10:19 AM
iamthenomad iamthenomad is offline
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Location: Loveland, CO
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 12
Mein Auto: '85 520i euro & '91 318is
Quote:
Originally Posted by rjjarvis View Post
Hi, you were going to post pictures and information about repairing rather than replacing the HCV. Wonder if you have them, I'd be very interested in seeing them, since my HCV appears to be on the blink.

Thanks,
Ron
yep i totally haven't followed up on this thread.

Turns out, I did two fixes, the second about a month after the first failed.

Here's a pic of the old o-ring.


First fix, I put the now O-ring in, put it all back together, installed in the car. No cigar, it still was leaking like it was before. Baffled, I took it back apart.

After much deliberation and testing, I discovered that the impeller casing itself (within the motor) had developed an invisible hairline crack at the base, probably because of the impeller vibration coupled with plastic being brittle over many heat cycles. The method I discovered this is very interesting. I filled the casing with water, and pressed my thumb onto the underside of the casing, forcing small air bubbles up through the invisible crack, thus discovering its existence. This made sense, because it only leaked when the car was hot, i.e. the casing was under high pressure, forcing coolant out.

Here's the casing I am referring to, with the broken impeller shaft mount.


An interesting comparison between my impeller (the intact one) and an impeller from a friend's '00 540i/6 M-sport. His electric motor had seized, but after the blades were sheared off the impeller, obviously. So the conclusion I drew from this is that the pump and impeller aren't needed to have working heat in the E39.


This is the motor, where the casing sits. The impeller spins simply because the magnetized motor "can"-looking thing spins on the other side of the casing wall.


So anyway, here is my first fix. I simply coated the bottom of the casing with some clear epoxy, to try and prevent the pressure from forcing coolant out of the crack. I also didn't install the impeller, since the mounting was already broken, and I didn't want the impeller vibration to exacerbate the crack situation.




Unfortunately, that is all for pictures, I didn't take any pics of my second fix.

So needless to say, this worked for a while, then failed again, and was leaking again, at a much higher rate than before. So this time I decided to eliminate the impeller casing altogether. This was easily done by simply removing the electric motor and impeller casing, and cutting a square of 11 gauge steel sheet, drilling four holes, and simply bolting the plate onto the plastic housing where the electric motor used to be. I used the same O-ring, and for extra precaution, I covered the mating surfaces with silicone before bolting the plate on.

With the plate there, it effectively deletes the electric motor/impeller, and just allows the coolant to pass through.

So far this has worked great, heat works great, and no leaks. And I cut down the weight of my E39 by like 0.25 lbs!!

Hope that helps.
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  #8  
Old 01-25-2013, 09:23 PM
Jase007 Jase007 is offline
Wrenchin' fool ...
Location: nova
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 770
Mein Auto: e39 528it
Great info and thanks for the pics.

Think I might be diving into mine soon ... have heat but intermittent side to side from dash center vent.
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2000 528iT Sport 5M (mfg. 5/1999) ~ 1990 325iX 5M
BMW CCA member #130075
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  #9  
Old 01-26-2013, 10:15 AM
iamthenomad iamthenomad is offline
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Location: Loveland, CO
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 12
Mein Auto: '85 520i euro & '91 318is
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jase007 View Post
Great info and thanks for the pics.

Think I might be diving into mine soon ... have heat but intermittent side to side from dash center vent.
yeah that sounds more like a valve problem.
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