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X3 E83 (2004 - 2010)
Talk about the E83 BMW X3 in this forum!

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  #51  
Old 03-16-2012, 09:05 PM
nrigroom nrigroom is offline
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littleE46 - I owe you a note of thanks as well for the excellent write-up. I just used steps 3 through 5 of your instructions to change my drive belts. Took me about an hour. Got the T45 torx bit and a 16 mm socket which made the job a snap.

Your instructions are far better than even the BMW TIS instructions for this job. The latter are not as detailed, especially with regards to the bit and socket sizes.

122K miles, hope to take it to at least 300K miles. Next job is a valve cover gasket replacement.
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  #52  
Old 12-04-2012, 10:37 AM
awdrev awdrev is offline
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Mein Auto: 2004 BMW X3 3.0 Auto Tran
Just a quick question:

Does the radiator also have the transmission fluid cooler built-in?

I believe I'm leaking tranny fluid into the radiator so I was thinking to replace it and hopefully that solves the issue.

Thanks again!
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  #53  
Old 12-05-2012, 06:21 AM
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mlukas161 mlukas161 is online now
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Automatic transmission cooler is near the bottom of the expansion tank.
See this attached DIY.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=415259
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  #54  
Old 12-09-2012, 07:58 AM
chagrin chagrin is offline
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Great write-up - I did a cooling system overhaul on our X3 this weekend and the photos were helpful. I found the source of an oil leak while disassembling parts in the engine bay - the notorious oil filter housing gasket. My recommendation to others: if you're going to the effort to do this job and you have an oil leak from that area, it's not much more work to replace it. It's an expensive job if you have an indy or dealer replace it ($400-800 is a typical range) due to the amount of labor hours required to access the part. Save yourself some money and replace this $5 part while you're in there and check your CCV/hoses as well.
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  #55  
Old 12-09-2012, 04:55 PM
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mlukas161 mlukas161 is online now
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I have the same OFHG leak in our x3. Just turned 138,000 miles so I wasn't surprised. Gonna tackle it within the next couple of weeks.
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  #56  
Old 12-09-2012, 06:25 PM
chagrin chagrin is offline
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@mlukas161, here's a photo of the OFHG mating surface on the block after the oil filter housing was removed. In the left (before) photo you can see how much of a mess it was creating on the side of the engine. After I cleaned it up a bit, you can see things more clearly on the right. I was adding 1/2 liter of oil every 2k miles, so this was a significant leak.
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Last edited by chagrin; 12-09-2012 at 09:07 PM.
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  #57  
Old 12-10-2012, 07:28 AM
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mlukas161 mlukas161 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chagrin View Post
@mlukas161, here's a photo of the OFHG mating surface on the block after the oil filter housing was removed. In the left (before) photo you can see how much of a mess it was creating on the side of the engine. After I cleaned it up a bit, you can see things more clearly on the right. I was adding 1/2 liter of oil every 2k miles, so this was a significant leak.
Wow, thanks for sharing that photograph chagrin. I'm pretty sure mine is gonna be a mess as well. I just ordered the gasket today and will see how it goes.
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  #58  
Old 01-21-2013, 07:00 AM
awdrev awdrev is offline
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Time to revive this thread.

Question regarding belt tensioners:

For anyone who has done either a full cooling system overhaul or the OFHG job, how do the belt tensioners work? Specifically, I know they have a little cap and that they are a TORX bit set, but I am wondering how much to tighten them when the job is done? I think that loosening them will be very straight forward but is there a "click" or another way to know when to stop tightening or do I need a Torque Wrench, etc

EDIT:

AHH It seems I finally found the information from an earlier post

Water pump tensioner pulley 8mm 10.9 class = 34Nm using 45 torx socket
Deflection pulley 8mm 8.8 bolt = 24Nm using 45 torx socket

Last edited by awdrev; 01-21-2013 at 07:18 AM.
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  #59  
Old 01-21-2013, 08:49 PM
Supercourse Supercourse is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awdrev View Post
Question regarding belt tensioners:

For anyone who has done either a full cooling system overhaul or the OFHG job, how do the belt tensioners work? Specifically, I know they have a little cap and that they are a TORX bit set, but I am wondering how much to tighten them when the job is done?
Be prepared for a few possibilities on how you release pulley tension and how the tensioners are bolted to the block.

With my 2.5 M54 the main accessory tensioner is mechanical, with a 16mm. hex head bolt release, and attached to the block by two 13mm. hex head bolts.
(The pulley itself is bolted to the tensioner with a torx bolt - T45 I think.
BMW don't consider this pulley to be replaceable, but it can be done with a Dayco 89133 pulley - less than $20 from rockauto.)

You may have the later hydraulic tensioner if a previous owner got it replaced, which will have torx bolts I believe.
And the pulleys for those are readily replaceable.
I think those were the torque values you referenced.
I would imagine about the same torque if you were replacing a pulley on a mechanical tensioner.

Even among the mechanical tensioners there may be differences in cover caps and how the tension is released depending on who the supplier was - INA, Febi/Bilstein, etc.

As a general rule, if the tension doesn't release easily with a c/w turn then you are in the wrong place.

The AC tensioner on an M54 is more likely to be a hydraulic type I believe. Not sure though.

(The N52 engine went to a single accessory belt, maybe because having an electric water pump made that feasible.)

There are also differences in how the air duct over the radiator is attached depending on engine type and/or model year.
Maybe even differences between the 2.5 and 3.0 - mine uses about 8 torx screws while others use plastic pins I think.
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  #60  
Old 01-26-2013, 09:46 PM
silentbob silentbob is offline
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+1, my 2004 was mechanical pulley for the drive belt, no Torx needed. For the A/C belt, I couldn't figure it out, so I just pushed on the tensioner by hand with a long screwdriver as a lever. It was enough to get the belt on and off.
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  #61  
Old 02-02-2013, 12:12 PM
awdrev awdrev is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silentbob View Post
+1, my 2004 was mechanical pulley for the drive belt, no Torx needed. For the A/C belt, I couldn't figure it out, so I just pushed on the tensioner by hand with a long screwdriver as a lever. It was enough to get the belt on and off.
Wow interesting... I always thought these belts had to be tighter than just human power. I'll keep that in mind for when I do it.
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  #62  
Old 02-07-2013, 01:34 PM
Ryan Sweeney Ryan Sweeney is offline
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This write up is gonna save my butt tonight, for sure. Gotta replace the radiator and expansion tank on my Mom's X3.
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