1995 540i won't start

Originally Posted by rv6rick

Negative, no clue what the 'adaptions' are in the DME or how to reset them.

I'm all ears though .

Rick in Ohio

what scanner are you using to reset the codes?

Using the 'stomp' test to get the codes.

-I have to stomp 5 times between codes to get them all.

-Then I have to hold the pedal down 10 sceconds to clear codes.

-Then I turn key off then to run and stomp 5 times within 5 seconds to check codes again and I get the 1444 'all clear' code.

Rick in Ohio

Originally Posted by _Ethrty-Andy_

what scanner are you using to reset the codes?

I'd say it needs O2 sensors haha

Sent from Joe's Galaxy SIII via BimmerApp

ok. urban legend is that you can disconnect the battery for 15-20 minutes and reconnect it, or alternatively disconnect the DME for the same period of time and then reconnect it and see if that clears the adaptions and solves your problem.
however in the past this hasnt worked for me on any of my BMWs and i have had to do it via the diagnostic port, but also i am unable to do the stomp test, it doesnt exist on eurospec cars.

if you can get your hands on a scanner, you can read all sorts of issues which are more specific than the ones that the dash reads out. I use carsoft

Hey not funny .

I'm with you BUT it runs like a dream with the MAF sensor unplugged and when I check the codes that will be the ONLY code I get (1215).

So, again:

-Drive it for a bit or

-Pull the plug on the MAF?

Push it outback into the woods .

Rick in Ohio

Originally Posted by Monsignor

I'd say it needs O2 sensors haha

Sent from Joe's Galaxy SIII via BimmerApp

Assuming it is the adaptions, it will be used to running with no MAF, and will have made a map based on the other sensors on the engine. when your reconnecting it, its confusing the engine and making it run poorly. resetting the adaptions forces the DME to go back to the base map BMW programmed into it, and then start building adaptions from there, rather than using logic it has gained over the last two years you have been running with no MAF and finding new data that hugely contridicts what it "knows"

make sense?

by the way, not saying it definately is this, but it wouldnt be the first time people (including myself) chase an issue thats not even physical

Understood.

Did this just now and then turned the key to 'run' for about 2 or 3 minutes. I turned the key to OFF then plugged the DME back in and started the car.

Now it's worse than ever . It will NOT idle at all and will only stay running if I feather the gas pedal. Even then it's now spitting and coughing like a sick cow .

And the Check Engine light came on about 10 seconds after I restarted the engine.

Rick in Ohio

Originally Posted by _Ethrty-Andy_

Assuming it is the adaptions, it will be used to running with no MAF, and will have made a map based on the other sensors on the engine. when your reconnecting it, its confusing the engine and making it run poorly. resetting the adaptions forces the DME to go back to the base map BMW programmed into it, and then start building adaptions from there, rather than using logic it has gained over the last two years you have been running with no MAF and finding new data that hugely contridicts what it "knows"

make sense?

by the way, not saying it definately is this, but it wouldnt be the first time people (including myself) chase an issue thats not even physical

hmm still worth a try though, it struggling to idle a bit at the moment is normal after resetting the adaptions, but will come right with a drive around the block once or twice, dont worry i havent made your car worse! try that and see if it learns about the MAF?

of course, could be something else. still worth a check though.

Hi rv6rick,

Did you hear any popping sound in your engine during the initial period when it was running very roughly? Did you have smoke coming out of your tailpipe afterwards?

I asked because I started my flooded engine in similar way. Instead of using 4 to 5 strawful of ATF like you, I put in about 1 milliliter of Mobil1 synthetic oil in each of the cylinders and got my engine started. It was very rough and stalled right away like yours. I kept my foot on the pedal the 2nd time to try to keep the engine revving at ~2000 rpm to keep it from stalling. It settled down and started to idle smoothly after about 5 minutes, albeit 200 rpm higher than normal. I heard popping sound coming from the engine during this initial 5-minute period, about 10 to 15 times. I think I saw some smoke in the engine compartment too, but it lasted very briefly. But after the engine warmed up, smoke started coming out of the tailpipe, it was gray in color and smelled like the engine was burning something. It was not gushing but was steady for sure. I hope I didn't damage anything inside the engine during this process, like the piston rings, or valve seals, etc. The engine was never overheated. There was liquid coming out of the tailpipe during the initial few minutes, but I think it was water from condensation, not coolant (I hope).

Anyone else has any idea?
I can start another thread if this is more involved.

I did. From what I've been through it sounds like you popped a crack or a hole in the rubber flapper diaphram on the Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve located on the back of the intake manifold. You can buy a new one on line and replace it for a little under $50 bucks. If it has a small crack or break in it you'll see the symptoms you have and as it gets worse the smoke will incease until it looks like bug control.

Two ways to fix it:

1- pull the intake then remove the PCVV and replace it with the new one. The will include replacing the hard plastic housing and the diaphram. This will take a few hours.

2-pop the back of the valve off with the side of a screwdriver and just replace the diaphram and pop it back on. The plastic case doesn't go bad....just the diaphram so this is a quick 10 minute fix. You still have to order the whole thing but you just pop the back off of the new PCVV and only use the diaphram.

Rick in Ohio

Originally Posted by marknj

Hi rv6rick,

Did you hear any popping sound in your engine during the initial period when it was running very roughly? Did you have smoke coming out of your tailpipe afterwards?

I asked because I started my flooded engine in similar way. Instead of using 4 to 5 strawful of ATF like you, I put in about 1 milliliter of Mobil1 synthetic oil in each of the cylinders and got my engine started. It was very rough and stalled right away like yours. I kept my foot on the pedal the 2nd time to try to keep the engine revving at ~2000 rpm to keep it from stalling. It settled down and started to idle smoothly after about 5 minutes, albeit 200 rpm higher than normal. I heard popping sound coming from the engine during this initial 5-minute period, about 10 to 15 times. I think I saw some smoke in the engine compartment too, but it lasted very briefly. But after the engine warmed up, smoke started coming out of the tailpipe, it was gray in color and smelled like the engine was burning something. It was not gushing but was steady for sure. I hope I didn't damage anything inside the engine during this process, like the piston rings, or valve seals, etc. The engine was never overheated. There was liquid coming out of the tailpipe during the initial few minutes, but I think it was water from condensation, not coolant (I hope).

Anyone else has any idea?
I can start another thread if this is more involved.

Is this also called the Crankcase Oil Separator?

Since I 'tried' to install the MAF sensor and unplugged my DME my car is a total waste of metal. It's now undrivable. I can barely keep it running and it's POPPING and SPITTING inside of the intake manifold big time. I have a clear hose plugging off the vacuum port on the back of the Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve (was a black capped plug) and can literally see flashes of FIRE inside of the 2" clear tube (that has a plug in it) when the engine POPS inside of the intake. It sounds like a firecracker going off about every 4 or 5 seconds.....kinda' scary like.....WOE BABY back away from this thing she's gonna' blow .

Doesn't matter now whether or not the MAF sensor is plugged in or unplugged....whatever happened it totally wasted the engine. I 'tried' to drive it and it quit 3 times in 3 miles and barley made it home. I had reset the MPG and it showed about 7 MPG at best.

I can reset the codes all I want but there are too many to count inbetween starts. Before it was only the MAF and that was because I ran for a couple years with it unplugged. Remember I only plugged in the new one because I had it running so good I thought this would be the icing on the cake.

Unplugging the DME was a HUGE mistake for this car .

What a pig

It was suggested to me to leave it alone for a few days and get some peace of mind back so that's kind of where I am. My wife said we are TOTALLY FINISHED with the car and to push it out back into the woods. She said I can get a new car so I at this point that's where I'm headed.

If someone has a secret weapon I will entertain it otherwise I'm finally admitting defeat . I think this horse is dead .

Rick in Ohio

Yes, watch this video...this is part one. Follow this up with part two as seen at the end of the video. This will make you understand it 100%



Since my car is fried at least maybe I can help someone else .

Rick in Ohio

Originally Posted by marknj

Is this also called the Crankcase Oil Separator?

Oh no, that would be a shame. My condolences.
Well, you gained quite a bit of knowledge thru this process and so did those of us who were riding along.

Originally Posted by rv6rick

Since I 'tried' to install the MAF sensor and unplugged my DME my car is a total waste of metal. It's now undrivable. I can barely keep it running and it's POPPING and SPITTING inside of the intake manifold big time. I have a clear hose plugging off the vacuum port on the back of the Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve (was a black capped plug) and can literally see flashes of FIRE inside of the 2" clear tube (that has a plug in it) when the engine POPS inside of the intake. It sounds like a firecracker going off about every 4 or 5 seconds.....kinda' scary like.....WOE BABY back away from this thing she's gonna' blow .

Doesn't matter now whether or not the MAF sensor is plugged in or unplugged....whatever happened it totally wasted the engine. I 'tried' to drive it and it quit 3 times in 3 miles and barley made it home. I had reset the MPG and it showed about 7 MPG at best.

I can reset the codes all I want but there are too many to count inbetween starts. Before it was only the MAF and that was because I ran for a couple years with it unplugged. Remember I only plugged in the new one because I had it running so good I thought this would be the icing on the cake.

Unplugging the DME was a HUGE mistake for this car .

What a pig

It was suggested to me to leave it alone for a few days and get some peace of mind back so that's kind of where I am. My wife said we are TOTALLY FINISHED with the car and to push it out back into the woods. She said I can get a new car so I at this point that's where I'm headed.

If someone has a secret weapon I will entertain it otherwise I'm finally admitting defeat . I think this horse is dead .

Rick in Ohio

Holy cow rick. I'm so sorry to hear about this end result. It sounds like a top fuel dragster that is about to blow it's supercharger

I understand your frustration. It sounds almost like the timing got buggered, but I certainly would not be able to explain how connecting a MAF would do that and I don't frankly see how a shift in timing could have ocurred. I suppose a faulty DME could do this, but swapping is not a simple straight forward proposition due to the EWSII.

Well, I wish you the best in finding a new car that will serve you and the wife well. I suppose we can assume it will not be a car brand that has 3 letters and begins with BMW

I have removed my DME before and then had a crank/no-fire issue. I had forgotten to take off the battery. Give this a shot, rick:

- Take battery off for a day. put it back on to reset everything.
- If it spares your sanity, remove DME and reinstall it again just to make you feel like you did something for it.
- leave MAF unplugged
- give it a whirl

Howdy,

I unplugged the battery for 48 hours then plugged it back in and no change in the car.

I rang out the wires for the MAF sensor from the pins #14 and #41 at the DME to the pins at the MAF connection and wires are good. Also the ground and 12V+ wires at the MAF sensor are good to ground and show 12V+ respectively.

Current situation is as follows:

-with clear codes and 2nd brand new MAF sensor plugged in.....

1-starts right up but idles rough
2-runs like a dog when put into drive and trying to accelerate
3-takes about 20 to 30 seconds to get up to 40mph and asking it to faster is a joke
4-On board computer says it's getting about 7 to 11 mpg
5-won't get out of it's own way....literally
6-check engine light comes on and when stomp test is done there must be 6 or 7 codes in there

-with clear codes and 2nd brand new MAF sensor UNPLUGGED

1-starts right up but will NOT run below about 1000 to 1200 rpm
2-once in drive and accelerating it goes pretty good but sometimes you have to run the revs up pretty high to get it to shift
3-whenever you slow for a stop sign or light you MUST keep one foot on the brake and one on the gas pedal or you will NEVER keep it running. It will die as soon as you stop
4-check engine light comes on but I only get the MAF sensor code
5-on board computer reads about 15 to 16 mpg

Can't drive the car anywhere like this as it's basically unsafe and unreliable .

Thanks for any additional info.

The guy that figures out what it the matter with this 'car' (I use that term loosely) will get a nice booby prize .

I've been trying to get this thing running since the 1st of January. I DID work through the 'crank but no start' issue and the 'no oil pressure' due to all the crud from the fuel wash but now it's got this problem that mysteriously appeared while all the other stuff was going on.

I've about had it.

Rick in Ohio

Originally Posted by Monsignor

I have removed my DME before and then had a crank/no-fire issue. I had forgotten to take off the battery. Give this a shot, rick:

- Take battery off for a day. put it back on to reset everything.
- If it spares your sanity, remove DME and reinstall it again just to make you feel like you did something for it.
- leave MAF unplugged
- give it a whirl

Originally Posted by rv6rick

Howdy,

I unplugged the battery for 48 hours then plugged it back in and no change in the car.

I rang out the wires for the MAF sensor from the pins #14 and #41 at the DME to the pins at the MAF connection and wires are good. Also the ground and 12V+ wires at the MAF sensor are good to ground and show 12V+ respectively.

Current situation is as follows:

-with clear codes and 2nd brand new MAF sensor plugged in.....

1-starts right up but idles rough
2-runs like a dog when put into drive and trying to accelerate
3-takes about 20 to 30 seconds to get up to 40mph and asking it to faster is a joke
4-On board computer says it's getting about 7 to 11 mpg
5-won't get out of it's own way....literally
6-check engine light comes on and when stomp test is done there must be 6 or 7 codes in there

What are the 7 codes that you're getting ? And part II sounds alot like an ICV and throttle sensor combo.

1215 MAF sensor, 1224 air temp, 1221 O2 sensors, 1212 O2 sensors, 1224 air temp, 1222 O2 rich/lean control stop, 1213 lean rich control stop

ICV has a nice 'buzz' to it when the key is in the 'run' position.

Hope this answers your question in order to receive more help.

I have checked ALL of the wires from the MAF sensor and all other wires from that bundle all the way back to the appropriate pins at the DME.

I have the diagrams and pin outs in my Bentley manual.

It will run down the road 100mph with the MAF sensor unplugged but WILL NOT run below about 1000rpm....period....so I have to keep one foot on the gas and one foot on the brake to slow down and stop.

With the MAF plugged in it will idle roughly but it takes 20 to 30 seconds to get up to 40 or so mph and will barely make it up a hill.

The car is now NOT drivable and is parked and awaying to be salvaged at this point.

Best,

Rick in Ohio

Originally Posted by samsonnyc

What are the 7 codes that you're getting ? And part II sounds alot like an ICV and throttle sensor combo.

Well, all of your error codes make sense if the maf is bad and messing with the fuel delivery. But this is a new maf ?

And without it connected, you can't hold rpm below 1000.

It still sounds like the ICV. Is it clean? How about the throttle sensor...contacts are clean? Or something simple has been overlooked. Could you have fixed the connector for one device onto another one ? And in reverse ? Sorry, its a stupid idea, but it can happen.

Originally Posted by rv6rick

1215 MAF sensor, 1224 air temp, 1221 O2 sensors, 1212 O2 sensors, 1224 air temp, 1222 O2 rich/lean control stop, 1213 lean rich control stop

It is as if plugging in the maf cuts off the power to all the stuff listed above.

Rick, I am really sorry that you're still having problems. I can't figure it out myself. But if there is something I can do to help, please let me know. Maybe I can help you with a disconnect test, although our engines are different (mine is an m52).

I have been thinking about your clogged oil situation for the past 2 weeks. Can you flush the clogged stuff down through the oil filter housing's opening at the bottom ? Can you put a stick down and push it into the oil pan to clean the blockage? Or not a stick but that long metal thing that plumbers use. Or, if the oil pump is in the way, can you reverse the rotation of the engine by hand to reverse the oil down through the pickup pipe ? Maybe you can fill up the oil filter housing with oil or diesel and rotate the engine backwards ? Or use an air compressor ? Would that clean the pickup pipe at least 50%?

I am very sorry about your car but I think you will fix it in the end somehow

Yes, this my 2nd NEW MAF sensor as I hoped the first NEW one was bad.

You make a good point about a connector hooked to the wrong device and this is something I will double check after work.

How do you clean and/or check the idle control valve?

Looking at all options so NOTHING is stupid but maybe me!

Car is at home and out of commission.

Thanks for the help it is greatly appreciated!

Rick in Ohio

Originally Posted by samsonnyc

Well, all of your error codes make sense if the maf is bad and messing with the fuel delivery. But this is a new maf ?

And without it connected, you can't hold rpm below 1000.

It still sounds like the ICV. Is it clean? How about the throttle sensor...contacts are clean? Or something simple has been overlooked. Could you have fixed the connector for one device onto another one ? And in reverse ? Sorry, its a stupid idea, but it can happen.

outside chance have you checked you fuel pressure regulator a bad one can give some of the systoms you are talking about here also a bad manifold gasket

Originally Posted by rv6rick

Yes, this my 2nd NEW MAF sensor as I hoped the first NEW one was bad.

You make a good point about a connector hooked to the wrong device and this is something I will double check after work.

How do you clean and/or check the idle control valve?

Looking at all options so NOTHING is stupid but maybe me!

Car is at home and out of commission.

Thanks for the help it is greatly appreciated!

Rick in Ohio

Generally, you know that the icv is damaged when the engine has trouble holding idle or you get a code. I think you clean it by spraying carburetor cleaner into it and shaking it about, until all the black stuff has drained out. The valve inside should not be gummed up, if it can't move easily, it will not regulate the idle properly.

I don't think you're stupid you are clearly an expert, but everyone gets careless. Its a long shot. Very long shot