06 750 Transmission problem?

I have the same problem with the transmission. I am hiring an attorney to file a class action lawsuite against BMW. If anyone would like to joint my class action please responde to this posting as soon as possible.

Yeap, sign me up! Emailing you my info

See my post regarding BMW and BMW dealer run arounds and what it ended up costing me. If you have had dealers give you the same run around, please let me know. Thank you. http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=673797

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I bought my 2006 750i with 87,000 miles on it. After a few months, I was driving on the highway and it was bumper to bumper traffic. When I was stopping from 2nd to first gear I heard a bang and thought that someone hit me from the rear.
This was the first symptom and not the last. It was becoming more frequent as time went on. After doing much research in this forum, it was brought to my attention that it wasn't the transmission at all causing this violent bang. It was the GUIBO joint.
Well, I finally had the time to drop the car off at my sons garage so that he could do a few things.
The 2006 750 I has 116,000 miles. For about 3 months, I had to add coolant about once every 400 miles. So he put the car on the lift, pulled the exhaust and dropped the tranny. He replaced the coolant pan at the engine block, wasn't leaking, but since he was there, he replaced it. He had the tranny on the stand and he replaced the guibo joint. He said that that was worn to shreds and definetly was the cause of the loud bang.

I checked in on him last night and he had the tube out of the valley pan. He said that normally you had to pull the tube out from the front but since he had the exhaust and tranny out he decided to go a different route. He pulled the tube out from the back towards the rear and replaced it with a new tube since the tube comes with the o-ring that caused the major coolant leak. Since he put the pipe in from the rear, he had to use some special adhesive to make sure the O-rings stay in place. Since the coolant only pushes about 15psi's he said that it would be fine.
Today, I took the car for a test drive and popped it into S. Came out of first to second to third as smooth silk. I'm so happy that finely I have the ultimate driving machine. I give this website credit for turning me onto INPA, helping with every issue over the last year and half. Helping me with the infamous coolant leak, the guibo joint banging, the transmission reset pedal trick, the integrated control module, the yaw sensor, and any other issue that may come up.
I'm also very fortunate to have a son that is a mechanic prodigy and a great mechanic. He did a great post on the infamous SAS issue, carbon build up in the heads, on the 2004 745I that we were able to clear.
If anyone is looking for a great mechanic, just let me know. He is in Hyannis, MA.

Originally Posted by fratan

I bought my 2006 750i with 87,000 miles on it. After a few months, I was driving on the highway and it was bumper to bumper traffic. When I was stopping from 2nd to first gear I heard a bang and thought that someone hit me from the rear.
This was the first symptom and not the last. It was becoming more frequent as time went on. After doing much research in this forum, it was brought to my attention that it wasn't the transmission at all causing this violent bang. It was the GUIBO joint.
Well, I finally had the time to drop the car off at my sons garage so that he could do a few things.
The 2006 750 I has 116,000 miles. For about 3 months, I had to add coolant about once ever400 miles. So he put the car on the lift, pulled the exhaust and dropped the tranny. He replaced the coolant pan at the engine block, wasn't leaking, but since he was there, he replaced it. He had the tranny on the stand and he replaced the guibo joint. He said that that was worn to shreds and definetly was the cause of the loud bang.

I checked in on him last night and he had the tube out of the valley pan. He said that normally you had to pull the tube out from the front but since he had the exhaust and tranny out he decided to go a different route. He pulled the tube out from the back towards the rear and replaced it with a new tube since the tube comes with the o-ring that caused the major coolant leak. Since he put the pipe in from the rear, he had to use some special adhesive to make sure the O-rings stay in place. Since the coolant only pushes about 15psi's he said that it would be fine.
If anyone is looking for a great mechanic, just let me know. He is in Hyannis, MA.

The Guibo joint is designed to ABSORB shocks and vibrations from the driveline. It's intended purpose is to NOT coverup the BANG when you go from 2-1 gear. That's an internal transmission or torque converter problem that needs to be addressed. That new Guibo will be shredded like the old one pretty fast.

As far as what you are saying about the pipe, that's a bit odd. It's a pressure fit pipe, the covers need to come off and the new O-ring is sandwiched in. You can do that or use the All German Auto (AGA) Repair kit which has better O-rings so it doesn't happen again.

Also there isn't a coolant pan, just a little container that's made out of plastic. I think maybe he replaced the transmission pan? That's needed when it's leaking or when you are doing a fluid change as the filter is built into the pan.

Originally Posted by csmeance

The Guibo joint is designed to ABSORB shocks and vibrations from the driveline. It's intended purpose is to NOT coverup the BANG when you go from 2-1 gear. That's an internal transmission or torque converter problem that needs to be addressed. That new Guibo will be shredded like the old one pretty fast.

As far as what you are saying about the pipe, that's a bit odd. It's a pressure fit pipe, the covers need to come off and the new O-ring is sandwiched in. You can do that or use the All German Auto (AGA) Repair kit which has better O-rings so it doesn't happen again.

Also there isn't a coolant pan, just a little container that's made out of plastic. I think maybe he replaced the transmission pan? That's needed when it's leaking or when you are doing a fluid change as the filter is built into the pan.

I think hes talkin about the rear coolant cover on the n62.
As far as that guibo goes funny you mention that because in another post i had suggested the hard down and up from 2-1 and 1-2 to be the adapter and sleeve (plug oring and gasket for mecha that keeps oil pressure) and i was told i was wrong and the guibo fixes that and if the gasket inside was blown the tranny wouldnt engage, blown yes maybe but leaking or on its way out it will lead to strange tranny behavior.. So can somebody else Chime in because i was always sure that hard shifting was a sign of that internal gasket going but maybe im out of my mind???

Originally Posted by 745iguy

I think hes talkin about the rear coolant cover on the n62.
As far as that guibo goes funny you mention that because in another post i had suggested the hard down and up from 2-1 and 1-2 to be the adapter and sleeve (plug oring and gasket for mecha that keeps oil pressure) and i was told i was wrong and the guibo fixes that and if the gasket inside was blown the tranny wouldnt engage, blown yes maybe but leaking or on its way out it will lead to strange tranny behavior.. So can somebody else Chime in because i was always sure that hard shifting was a sign of that internal gasket going but maybe im out of my mind???

I do believe it was I that told you that harsh downshift from 2nd to 1st has nothing to do with the Mechatronic sleeve an adapter you were referring too. I still stand by that. The Mechatronic sleeve an the Mechatronic adapter will cause the transmission NOT to go in gear when the car is cold. Typically the 1st start of the day. Once the transmission has heated up to normal operating temperature then the seal expands causing the car to think the problem is fix an go into gear but in actuality its not. The actual Guibo joint/flex disk maybe a temporary fix for harsh down shifting or Bang as stated. However, Hard down shift can come from various things like the torque converter, solenoid pack or even valve body.

Originally Posted by 745iguy

I think hes talkin about the rear coolant cover on the n62.
As far as that guibo goes funny you mention that because in another post i had suggested the hard down and up from 2-1 and 1-2 to be the adapter and sleeve (plug oring and gasket for mecha that keeps oil pressure) and i was told i was wrong and the guibo fixes that and if the gasket inside was blown the tranny wouldnt engage, blown yes maybe but leaking or on its way out it will lead to strange tranny behavior.. So can somebody else Chime in because i was always sure that hard shifting was a sign of that internal gasket going but maybe im out of my mind???

I do believe you are talking about this topic (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...413&highlight=). I don't think you are out of your mind, but I firmly believe the Mechatronic adapter an sleeve you are referring to is not the solution to this problem.

I was referring about the rear coolant cover on the back of the engine which is a known problem with the e65's. This wasn't leaking but we decided to replaced it anyways since we had access(proactive fix). I've been driving with the bang since 90,000 miles. That bang kept getting loader and more frequent and felt like a slip in the transmission. If you have the bang then there is no mistaking the noise. It's like someone has rear ended you. I had the car for 1 month and driving with a friend of mine on the highway when we came to a stop. I then accelerated and bam. My friend told the driver behind us to pull over and he said he didn't hit us. I believed him because it happened once before but not so hard.

There is no more slipping or banging since replacing the GUIBO joint. I never heard about the torque converter but will further research. My son is confident that the bang was caused from the guibo joint slipping from being worn out while the car was performing its stopping process.

As far as I'm concerned, the problem is fixed and I'm styling with the smoothest ride out there. Now I can ride in S mode. BooYah!

did you get anywhere with bmw corporate on this?

Originally Posted by jrconsejerotoo

yesterday I opened the door and even pushed the button to park, I saw it go into park!
I walked over about 8 feet to key in my garage code when out of the corner of my eye i catch the car coming at me and my 4 year old. Car eventually stopped when it crunched my grge door.
I get in the car and the gear symbol is lit...car is in Neutral and transmission failure code is on! Now it goes into gear for a few seconds then automatically goes into neutral...so I can hit the gas and start moving before it clunks and disengages . I'm talking about the parking shift position not the parking brake..consider this..none of my regular analog automatic transmission vehicles magically change gears from park to neutral even if the transmission does fail. CAR SHOULD NEVER UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES GO FROM PARK TO NEUTRAL ON ITS OWN! One day you'll forget the parking brake and you'll find your car ghost riding without you...and hopefully it doesn't kill someone or destroy property.
I would like to know, since it happened out of the blue without warning...If anyone knows how to clear the fault to replicate it? I'm afraid to disconnect the battery since that ill also erase my key fob? So I been told... Apparently, NHTSA has had several complaints and are investigating this...but in the meantime I'm dead in the water and I refuse to pay $10k for a new transmission on a car with this few miles without an explanation at least of why someone would be stupid enough to make this a possible default setting.

There is a recall campaign on it!

Hey guys,
I'm not entirely sure if my problemm is the same as most of yours, (I'm new to cars) but here's what happened.
I convinced my dad to go ahead and buy an 06 750li from an infinity dealership in ATL, it was a great deal for relatively low miles (80k). All was well until recently. The check engine light (the one that actually looks like an engine) has been on for a couple of months. I wrongly assumed that it had to do with the next service checkup. Anyways, just yesterday, as we were visiting a friend, the series of events took place:

-drove up an inclined driveway, car fully loaded with people.
-reversed on said driveway
-tried to go back up and encountered a "transmission fault error"
-I wasn't driving but it felt as if my dad were driving through mud. The car was rpm'ing highly and my dad parked it on level ground. The car seemed to want to stay in neutral or reverse.
-upon restarting it a few minutes later it drove fine, but the check engine light is still on.

Now idk if it's the same, but ever since the check engine light was on my dad's been complaining of jerky shifts and slow acceleration from stop. I don't know what's wrong but frankly I'm disappointed with the car, going as far to say that our 08 Altima is a better ride :/ I'm hoping it's as simple as an IVM fault. And I'm willing to try anything to fix it on my own. I would like my dad to actually enjoy his ride instead of being worried about it every time he hits the accelerator. Hope you guys can help.

The check engine light has nothing to do with the Transmission fault. The light should have been brought to the sellers attention within the 30 day period. The 2006 750i is a great car much better than an Altima but requires about $1000-1500 of servicing per year.
You need to find a reasonable mechanic that uses INPA or if your computer savvy load INPA into a laptop so you can read the check engine codes and reset them when necessary.
When I bought my 2006 750 I, I had some recalls fix with the dealer which BMW paid for. Call BMW USA and they'll check your car to see if these recall campaigns were fix. One recall had to with the brakes.
Also, put the key into the ignition without your foot on brake and push the button, once the button is pushed hold the gas pedal down for 25 seconds. This will reset the transmission.
There is a good possiblility that you may have a transmission leak either in the Transmission sleeve or the bridge seal adapter between the mechatronics and tranny. These parts are cheap but you need a mechanic to put it up on a lift.
Good luck and continue reading, this site is great and if I can do it anyone can.