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E46 (1999 - 2006)
The fourth generation 3 Series (E46 chassis) was introduced in 1999 and set the standard for engineering and performance during it's years of production including being named to Car & Driver's 10 best list every one of those years! ! -- View the E46 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 02-02-2013, 03:24 AM
Usy2007 Usy2007 is offline
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Hi about the battery.. I was having this problem so i changed the battery.. Botg batteries tested and ok.. Both holding charge.. Both healthy at 12.65v full charge
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  #27  
Old 02-02-2013, 03:25 AM
Usy2007 Usy2007 is offline
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Also the fsu was checked and not a problem.. I havent looked at the ignition switch.. Could be...
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  #28  
Old 02-02-2013, 03:30 AM
bmwmanz2 bmwmanz2 is offline
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When the electrical guy tested your system for drain/a short, did he test the alternator at all? If a diode is stuck open or you has something minor that is wrong with it, then it could cause the battery not to charge back up properly leaving you without the car. I assume the parts store will have a diagnostic tool for the battery and charging system. We have a tool that tests the battery, starter, alternator, and electrical drain . 9/10 the diode or phase is open and we see a customer repetitively because they won't see someone about it. Hope this helps in any way.
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  #29  
Old 02-02-2013, 03:38 AM
Usy2007 Usy2007 is offline
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The alternator is charging.. But.. When the autoelectrician had a look at it.. He couldnt find a drain as it was intermittent.. But he didnt look at anything else the cheeky bugger and charged me for it.. I think it was the alternator and that theres a faulty diode.. However, my car is refusing to start now even with a jump start.. Looks like another problem now!.. It just clicks.. Brand new battery put in too.. Ignition switch? Starter motor?
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  #30  
Old 02-02-2013, 03:48 AM
bmwmanz2 bmwmanz2 is offline
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How many clicks, how fast, what is the instrument cluster doing when you try to start it, etc. ? Like click......click.....click or more like clickclickclickclick? Like a click kuh? Any lights stay on/come on when driving? Any codes being thrown? How clean are you battery post and terminals? Sometimes the slightest bit of corrosion or unseen junk between the two can cause a false sound such as a starter. Also make sure the connection is tight to the battery post. If they are loose you could not get a proper connection. If tight, try a friend to apply pressure in an upward manner to the positive cable at the battery while trying to start. If nothing, try the negative. If nothing, move on from that test because if the battery is dead it will not help or start regardless and this test is worthless.
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  #31  
Old 02-02-2013, 06:06 AM
Usy2007 Usy2007 is offline
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Hi.. The sound is just one click.. And thats it.. The batteries are fine.. Both fully charged when put in.. The new one is only a month old.. This has gone from an intermittent car drain to something even worse!
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  #32  
Old 02-02-2013, 06:23 AM
bmwmanz2 bmwmanz2 is offline
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The battery posts are clean and terminals have nothing between it and the posts ie. dirt or corrosion right? With the fresh battery, try one starting and the other holding cables to the battery up individually to make sure something isn't loose or shorted out. That is a common one click symptom. Another can be the starter. One thing you can try for desperate measure is use something as an extension (pry bar,socket extension, anything will do) and as one person is trying to constantly start it have the other tapping the starter continuously. 9/10 times if it is the starter, then it'll turn over and start.
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  #33  
Old 02-02-2013, 07:41 AM
Usy2007 Usy2007 is offline
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No the battery posts are clean.. Especially on the new battery.. Could someone indicate where the starter motor is?.. A picture?.. I think its tucked underneath the engine.. And i the AA man tried to jumpstart with no aveil.. I suspect now there is a possible short somewhere.. The voltage spikes due to jumpstarting so many times may have damaged the starter motor?
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  #34  
Old 02-02-2013, 08:08 AM
bmwmanz2 bmwmanz2 is offline
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The starter should be on the back end of the intake manifold downbeat the motor. It is behind/parallel to the alternator roughly 2'. It is past the pcv/ccv. Attached to the "bell." Look for the dipstick and go down ~8" and head NE you should see it with a couple wires with red indicating the positive wires. There are 2 cylinder looking piece to it. One is the starter the other is the solenoid. Good luck.
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  #35  
Old 02-02-2013, 10:52 AM
Usy2007 Usy2007 is offline
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Found it!.. Tried what you said and i guess if it was sticking it would have released... But again no result.. Car will still refuse to turn over!
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  #36  
Old 02-02-2013, 11:22 AM
bmwmanz2 bmwmanz2 is offline
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10-4. Someone was constantly trying to start it while you were tapping lightly and fairly hard at times? I am sorry if it didn't work . All the visible ground wires on the car are connected and have a a good connection yes? Big battery fuse isn't blown either?
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  #37  
Old 02-06-2013, 12:27 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Just for the record, there is a parasitic battery drain diagnostic procedure in the works here:
- One users experience diagnosing a dead battery overnight, including a listing of all fuses in the bimmer and diagnostic procedures for parasitic drain and FSU and Fuse F76 replacement advice (1)
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #38  
Old 02-16-2013, 03:15 AM
Usy2007 Usy2007 is offline
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Right so i thought id update you with what the fix was.. Took it to a bmw specialist and they detrmined it to be the starter motor within 2 hours.. They seemed pretty sure about it so i asked them to change it.. The customer service guy couldmt really tell me what was wrong with starter motor, dont think he was technical at all.. But 350 bill last week for it seemed to have done the trick.. Its been just over a week and no problems at all! hope it carries on like this..
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  #39  
Old 02-16-2013, 09:20 PM
GoForthFast GoForthFast is offline
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Follow ups to clue us in always appreciated.

Just as I said, erratic starter motor is classic.
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  #40  
Old 10-30-2013, 09:12 AM
evdelos evdelos is offline
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06 x3 battery drained to 12.06 sometimes even started. Dealer could not find problem. I disconnected the power plug from Sirius radio, battery stays at 12.5 and starts. try disconnecting radio
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  #41  
Old 10-30-2013, 09:29 AM
bmwmanz2 bmwmanz2 is offline
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I know this doesn't help, but maybe done information on how to test for parasitic drain and voltage drop on the battery may be useful? Make sure there is no dirt and to clean the tops of top post batteries as gassing occurs and the hydrogen that gets trapped under the film can cause a voltage drop on the battery. This can occur even on a appears to be clean top post. Set the ddom to dc volts. Put one lead on either terminal and check the entire top with the other lead. One customer had 3v on the entire time because of this. Parasitic drain on the other hand will have to be hooked up in series. Turn your meter to Amps and remove the negative battery cable. Put one lead on the terminal and the other lead on the negative post. Your reading should be under .05A. I know this wasn't the solution, but eh. Make sure the Sirius wires are in good condition and not short to ground or short to voltage. Sorry to hear.
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  #42  
Old 01-01-2014, 01:02 PM
Tim_A Tim_A is offline
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I have similar issues, E39 530d. Have replaced starter motor, alternator, and have charged battery overnight with CTEK MXS5 charger. Have not disconnected FSU, but have removed fuse 9 (which stops fan and disables all ventilation / rear window demister etc.) HOWEVER still get flat battery after 24 hours! Any idea? Think next step is to discontinue FSU and put fuse 9 back in...this is really affecting my morale!
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  #43  
Old 01-01-2014, 02:28 PM
bmwmanz2 bmwmanz2 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim_A View Post
I have similar issues, E39 530d. Have replaced starter motor, alternator, and have charged battery overnight with CTEK MXS5 charger. Have not disconnected FSU, but have removed fuse 9 (which stops fan and disables all ventilation / rear window demister etc.) HOWEVER still get flat battery after 24 hours! Any idea? Think next step is to discontinue FSU and put fuse 9 back in...this is really affecting my morale!
If you have a digital multimeter try this: put in on DC volts (v with squiggly lines and dots above the squiggly line) and put one lead on either battery post and the other test all along the battery case (top). If you see any voltage over .3v clean it. Under a volt really won't matter to be honest but this will indicate a voltage drop on the battery. It is like having say 3v on the entire time the car is off. If that looks good move on to the next test. If moving on move the red lead to the amps position and select Amps on the meter. Disconnect the negative battery cable and put one lead on the battery cable terminal and the other on the negative post on the battery. It should read less than .05A. If higher you have a parasitic drain constantly on. This means something is always running and your battery may stay on the charger but will continue to die until the problem is resolved. May be short to voltage or short to ground. Hopefully it is something simple for you though. The alternator is good? Can have the car running and put your multimeter on DC volts. From there you put one lead on the battery positive and the other lead on battery negative. Your readings should be between 13.5-15.6v.
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  #44  
Old 01-02-2014, 09:32 AM
Tim_A Tim_A is offline
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Hi Tony and thanks for the comment. I have checked the battery as you say - the voltage is <0.03, so all that was good, at rest the battery shows 12.8V and with alternator running shows 14.4V. The issue is that the ammeter does not show anything above 0.2 but every now and then there is apparently a spike of up to 5A - this happens intermittently and I cannot seem to replicate the conditions which lead to it! My local garage has seen it, I have not seen it despite putting the ammeter in series on at least 3 occasions and waiting for over 30 minutes each time.

Anyway, I today installed a new FSU, and will see what happens over the next 2 days.....it is the correct BMW one that has been referred to in the forum by Elvis.
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  #45  
Old 01-02-2014, 11:46 AM
bmwmanz2 bmwmanz2 is offline
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If the ammeter was measuring .2 amps then that would still be too high. Less than .05A is good and preferably more around .03A. Hopefully the issue gets fixed. I know the Bmw has a timer the electronics are on for roughly 17-20min before the drain is gone. This will give off a false reading unless you leave the trunk open and use a flashlight to see the battery. As long as the trunk light and so forth are off you will get an accurate reading. Best wishes Tim.
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  #46  
Old 01-06-2014, 03:58 AM
Tim_A Tim_A is offline
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Hi Tony - replaced the FSU with a new part from BMW, it has now been 4 days and all things are now working 100%. Thanks for all the helpful advice!
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