Cooling System

Originally Posted by SFbay

You have rear cover plate leak!
Fan clutch is bad too, it activates once engine is 105+
If your engine running at 107+ it means fan clutch died long time ago bc its been working too much all the time.

Thanks bro ill order the clutch fan and I hvce it at indy for trans sleave and guibo- flex disc and center drive shaft bearing ill have hime test it to see if leaking at the plate

Originally Posted by SFbay

Asia??? Hmm do I sound Asian??
Ha ha I'm no darker than you
If I were you I would do the rear plate for this money, bc you have no wheep hole leak, may be vp leak.

Keeping fingers crossed wont do anything, and thinking that rear plate for some miraculous reason is still normal after 10yr ??? It's no different from valley pan, same exact design and is prone to failure. M62 has a crossover pipe, which you can replace easy after intake removal. N62 sucks at this point!!!
Did you know they had e65 with straight 6 M54 and M57 in Europe??? Imagine problem free e65!!! V8, V12 is not very popular there and is expensive.

Sorry I can't understand this post, I think your asian accent is coming out in your typing?

Anyway, a quick way to test the valley pan/rear plate is pressure test the system, if theyre leaking you will see it right off the bat.

Originally Posted by cmpcpro

Sorry I can't understand this post, I think your asian accent is coming out in your typing?

Anyway, a quick way to test the valley pan/rear plate is pressure test the system, if theyre leaking you will see it right off the bat.

Can't understand? May be you should consider some English lessons???
"Right off the bat" won't always work for these engines)
The goal is to get 105-103 on idling and tranny temp within specs

Originally Posted by SFbay

Can't understand? May be you should consider some English lessons???
"Right off the bat" won't always work for these engines)
The goal is to get 105-103 on idling and tranny temp within specs

"My Engrish is no so good"..learn
Me sum Engrish lessons..lol

So today I noticed 105 at the light but down to 101 when I pulled off..also in another thread I posted a stored fault of 8E111..which was explained in the thread by other members.. I wonder if I'm also in for the coolant pipe/valley pan/rear plate revamp.

Originally Posted by First_745Li

So today I noticed 105 at the light but down to 101 when I pulled off..also in another thread I posted a stored fault of 8E111..which was explained in the thread by other members.. I wonder if I'm also in for the coolant pipe/valley pan/rear plate revamp.

If aux fan kicks in when idling, you're good.
In 40 days I'll get 95C tstats.

Just yesterday my friend drove his 750 2007 89k uphill and got coolant pipe leak!!! Horrible leak it's pouring water like crazy!!! He had bmw coolant, so it doesn't matter which coolant- it affects any car after 70k miles. But I told him its good you have coolant pipe vs rear plate
95C tstat will help a lot

So I went with a little more water in my coolant mix.About -20c mix which is roughly 45/55 . Never over 105c and goes down to 103c at idle.99c to 102c cruising.Maybe patch for now but I'm never going up to 50/50.

Originally Posted by dolfan13

So I went with a little more water in my coolant mix.About -20c mix which is roughly 45/55 . Never over 105c and goes down to 103c at idle.99c to 102c cruising.Maybe patch for now but I'm never going up to 50/50.

Thats what I've noticed, 50/50 is much hotter.

Originally Posted by dolfan13

So I went with a little more water in my coolant mix.About -20c mix which is roughly 45/55 . Never over 105c and goes down to 103c at idle.99c to 102c cruising.Maybe patch for now but I'm never going up to 50/50.

Did it go over 105 before?

Would bounce up to 107c with AC on only after few min idle.Not that now ever .

Originally Posted by SFbay

If aux fan kicks in when idling, you're good.
In 40 days I'll get 95C tstats.

Would I assume its working if it's not climbing higher than 105? I'm sure my question has been answered in previous post somewhere in this thread ..... But what would be the easiest way to verify that the aux fan is kicking in?
Might be the longest 40 days one has had to wait...

Originally Posted by First_745Li

Would I assume its working if it's not climbing higher than 105? I'm sure my question has been answered in previous post somewhere in this thread ..... But what would be the easiest way to verify that the aux fan is kicking in?
Might be the longest 40 days one has had to wait...

No, 105 is too much, it only stays there for few seconds until aux fan cools it down.

Originally Posted by SFbay

No, 105 is too much, it only stays there for few seconds until aux fan cools it down.

Ok thank you.

Update:
Did rear cover!!
Now it's all perfect
Temp doesn't go higher than 93C!!!!!
Aux kicks in at 93

Originally Posted by SFbay

Update:
Did rear cover!!
Now it's all perfect
Temp doesn't go higher than 93C!!!!!
Aux kicks in at 93

Awesome! That's using the tstat you modified, right?

Originally Posted by First_745Li

Awesome! That's using the tstat you modified, right?

Yep 95C
Car runs fast, just smoked small Harley the guy was staring at me like "wtf?". Idk may be Harley sportster is slow?? But he couldn't make from start even though he pushed really hard))

thats good news thanks for keeping us posted.
Between the SAS cleaning kit and this tstat idk which i should be more excited about

Originally Posted by 745iguy

thats good news thanks for keeping us posted.
Between the SAS cleaning kit and this tstat idk which i should be more excited about

What's sas???
Btw all tests passed so it'll pass the smog easy

Secondary air system that aga kit is now available also

Hoping these next 500 orso dollars will be the leap of no more frequent leaks and issues after that it will be a total of 5k in things ive done myself recently did the alt bracket, replaced a linkage to the ride height sensor in the front, and inner tie rods and while i had it up i figured id give the seals around the headlamps another coat of silicone to be safe and outside cleaning

Originally Posted by 745iguy

Secondary air system that aga kit is now available also

Ha ha you don't need anything to buy:
I just removed those egr valves, poured a lot of carb cleaner with wd40, waited overnight, then bought 5$ wired thing to clean pipes in the kitchen, sticked it in, twisted etc,
Final and testing stage is to blow it with compressed air, just any rubber hose will work as adapter.
Tada and I got air from muffler.
No errors all checks out
How much they won't for such a "high tec" equipment???
Don't believe in their "high tec" dissolvers etc this how they make money.

Originally Posted by SFbay

Ha ha you don't need anything to buy:
I just removed those egr valves, poured a lot of carb cleaner with wd40, waited overnight, then bought 5$ wired thing to clean pipes in the kitchen, sticked it in, twisted etc,
Final and testing stage is to blow it with compressed air, just any rubber hose will work as adapter.
Tada and I got air from muffler.
No errors all checks out
How much they won't for such a "high tec" equipment???
Don't believe in their "high tec" dissolvers etc this how they make money.

did you get to this without removing intake manifold? if i can get to those valves without doing that and can still remove those valves with removing the bulk head and using chemicals and some kind of long wire tool i would do it. without the dme flash i have done both my sides are clogged (idk how badly, cant be too bad last time i knew the code would shut off and on, on its own) they want around 250ish iirc for that kit with the wire brushes and etc to put into that and they recommend using chemtool or some such liquid. if i can ill go buy the carb cleaner and try a wire of some sorts but the question is length, how strong is it etc. look at the thread about it to see pics of the kit itself.

Originally Posted by 745iguy

did you get to this without removing intake manifold? if i can get to those valves without doing that and can still remove those valves with removing the bulk head and using chemicals and some kind of long wire tool i would do it. without the dme flash i have done both my sides are clogged (idk how badly, cant be too bad last time i knew the code would shut off and on, on its own) they want around 250ish iirc for that kit with the wire brushes and etc to put into that and they recommend using chemtool or some such liquid. if i can ill go buy the carb cleaner and try a wire of some sorts but the question is length, how strong is it etc. look at the thread about it to see pics of the kit itself.

Ha ha 250$??? Well it cost them 10-20$ to make this kit
Yes you can remove those valves, but you need some skills and patience. But!!! Once it's removed you gotta be really carefull not to brake that 80$ Y pipe bc it's brittle most of the times. Anyhow you remove 2 nuts from each head, move that valve, stick that brush wire and pour some nice solvents!!!
Done!!!
But, definitely much better with intake removed.
250$ saved don't worry it will work.
If you feel air from exhaust you're good
Btw how do you know if your Y pipe is intact??? Very common it just brakes, cracks, and you have a leak, so not necessary your ports are clogged.
I got that brush from orchards supply
9$ smth

I suppose i really just dont know at all. Guessing from that alt bracket its probably brittle.
That gasket was like plastic stuck inside the slot for it. had to heat it up and use a nice pick to get it out, then i had to clean it all up with a wire brush.
So my bet is my pipe that goes under the manifold to those valves are brittle also... Come to think of it the old Y pipe CCV hose cracked when i tried to remove them when i did my driver side VCG so i might as well just buy a new one lol