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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 02-05-2013, 09:50 PM
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What is the secret to removing the diabolical connectors hindering access to Fuse 76

Q: What is the secret to removing the three diabolical connectors hindering access to FSU Fuse F76?

In this thread, I've gone through the parasitic drain test procedure:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > In progress: Step by step diagnostic DIY ... dead battery ... parasitic battery drain

To continue the test, I want to re-insert the yellow 40 amp FSU Fuse F76 - but I can't easily get my hands in there to put the fuse back.

If only I could remove at the very least that larger of three connectors shown below.


QUESTION:
Do you know HOW to remove that larger harness connector?
If so, please share!
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Last edited by bluebee; 02-06-2013 at 07:49 AM. Reason: Added photo.
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  #2  
Old 02-05-2013, 09:53 PM
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AnotherGeezer AnotherGeezer is offline
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Wicca stuff.

edit : of or pertaining to witchcraftery.....
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Last edited by AnotherGeezer; 02-06-2013 at 07:30 AM.
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  #3  
Old 02-05-2013, 10:17 PM
Round Two Round Two is offline
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The (2) on the right are similar to the connectors on the back of the cluster, which which I just became familar. Look closely at the small tab on the curved body where it meets the unlocking device (different color). Press the tab in (the one on the right has three or four ribs which help to identifiy it for this purpose), towards the wiring, and it will allow the unlocking device to pivot or swing over it and at that point it will be obvious. The unlocking device works as a kind of arm that catches some ingenious slotting to lock the thing in place. The one on the left, I have no idea. Bluebee, thanks for all your posts!

Last edited by Round Two; 02-05-2013 at 10:21 PM. Reason: Clarification
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  #4  
Old 02-05-2013, 11:25 PM
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mjalloul11 mjalloul11 is online now
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The one on the left, just slide a small screw driver in the left corner and the connector will slid apart .
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  #5  
Old 02-06-2013, 12:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjalloul11 View Post
The one on the left, just slide a small screw driver in the left corner and the connector will slid apart .
I already tried that - but - maybe I just didn't push hard enough.
There were also two little tabs I tried to push in simultaneously.
But it barely budged.

I already broke the white tabs on the clips in the back when I tugged too hard, as can be seen in this picture:


Here's a full-sized picture of the connectors in that picture above:
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12126222.jpg

If we can figure out how best to remove them, it would make access to the critical fuse F76 much easier, and it would make parasitic drain problems easier to diagnose.
The Bentley diagrams make is look so easy!
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Last edited by bluebee; 03-01-2013 at 12:35 PM.
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  #6  
Old 02-06-2013, 01:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vatoman View Post
heres how to unlock those connectors
http://www.bmwgm5.com/GM3_E39_Removal.htm
This reference sure looks like it has all the information I need, so I'll try it out tomorrow.
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  #7  
Old 02-06-2013, 05:30 AM
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You beat me to it. Slide the big black one. There is ribbed end to it and the others you have to use a bit more force. I know it's hard with these cars and plastic pieces that are so damn fragile.
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  #8  
Old 02-06-2013, 07:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtadrian View Post
You beat me to it. Slide the big black one. There is ribbed end to it and the others you have to use a bit more force. I know it's hard with these cars and plastic pieces that are so damn fragile.
The problem I must have had was that I didn't use enough force (although, trust me, on that big black one, I tugged on the u-shaped clip at left with all the force I had in my fingers, and it only moved a quarter inch - but no more).

On the two levered connectors, I couldn't get the lever over that locking tab.

In both cases, I didn't use tools (for fear of breaking things and making it worse), but I'll try anew with a screwdriver - now that I know force is the answer.

Getting the yellow 40amp FSR fuse F76 out was doable without removing those connectors ... but I'm worried that they must be removed to get the fuse back in.
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  #9  
Old 02-07-2013, 09:17 PM
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Wow.

That big black X254 harness connector for the GM3 module took a LOT of force to remove!

But, once removed, I was able to get the blower motor circuit fuse F76 back in place!
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  #10  
Old 02-07-2013, 09:40 PM
pleiades pleiades is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
..... To continue the test, I want to re-insert the yellow 40 amp FSU Fuse F76 - but I can't easily get my hands in there to put the fuse back.....
Which begs the question: How did you get it out in the first place?


(* I must have really small hands, or having the glovebox out made all the difference.)
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  #11  
Old 02-07-2013, 10:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pleiades View Post
How did you get it out in the first place?
I'm lucky that I have small hands!

But, as you surmised, even with little hands, fuse F76 clearly was NOT going to go back in without a fight.

Luckily, removing the big black X254 harness connector to the GM3 module was all that was needed - although - disconnecting THAT connector took more force than I've ever used on ANY plastic connector on the entire bimmer!


LESSON LEARNED:
After having removed & replaced fuse F76, I don't recommend pulling the fuse F75 or F76 unless you absolutely have to. Pull the FSU instead (however, that isn't so easy either).
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  #12  
Old 09-19-2013, 10:18 AM
KKlop KKlop is offline
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I just removed the x254 connector to get to F75. The screwdriver tip made it easy. After sliding the connector initially, you will have space at the back end of the connector to push with a screwdriver.

Bluebee, you are a real asset to this board. Thanks for the time you spend posting all the info and links.
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  #13  
Old 04-27-2014, 12:09 PM
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We found out something new about Fuse F28 today!
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Blower Motor Stopped working? Try This
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdl View Post
According to WDS [what fuse F28 does] depends on build date.

A) up to 9/98 build date, i.e. model year 1998, fuse F28 30 amp, supplies the switched power side of a heater blower relay. This circuit supplies power to the FSU.

B) model years 1999 and later, F28 15 amp, supplies the auto transmission control module.
See also:
- One user's attempt to locate, describe, and photograph all fuses and relays in the BMW E39 with a picture of every fuse & relay (1)
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  #14  
Old 08-22-2014, 08:03 PM
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Based on this post today, it looks like the neighboring fuse F75 is as hard to locate at fuse F76:
- Picture & amperage & description of every single fuse & relay in the BMW E39
Quote:
Originally Posted by gvelco View Post
can someone confirm that 2002 models have 50amp fuse for aux fan behind glove box?searched in my car and found nothing(will post pics in situ).bentley and others say that aux fan is secured with 50amp fuse.
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  #15  
Old 08-22-2014, 08:42 PM
pleiades pleiades is offline
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May have missed the warning so I'll put this out here....

Be sure you disconnect the car battery before removing plugs from the general module (the big horizontal one with several large connectors on it).
.
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