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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 08-10-2010, 08:44 AM
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bmw7833 bmw7833 is offline
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Mein Auto: Year 1997 E39 M52B25
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  #27  
Old 05-22-2011, 03:33 PM
emPoWaH emPoWaH is offline
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Mein Auto: E39
Quote:
Originally Posted by 87vert View Post
My filler hose actually had a crack in it. Mine is also different as it goes inside of the tank as opposed to outside of the neck so a zip tie would not do any good. I wrapped it in tape and it helped stop the leak. It is leak free once it gets below that pipe though.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...51&hg=61&fg=45

Any idea what #4 is? and how do I buy the hose? Is it part of #3?
Sounds like what I have... when I try to refill the reservoir, I get a puddle underneath the front bumper (as opposed to behind the front wheel). No low-fluid light, so I assume the reservoir itself is full, but nothing comes out of the nozzles either. I'll try some tape...
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  #28  
Old 05-22-2011, 09:49 PM
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cdawg246 cdawg246 is online now
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awesome nice write up and pics--i have to do the same repair cause im tired of seeing the warning of low windshield fluid--thanks again bimmerfest
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  #29  
Old 05-22-2011, 10:10 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Quote:
Originally Posted by cdawg246 View Post
im tired of seeing the warning of low windshield fluid
Me too!
- Pre-winter inspection of my 2002 windshield washer system

DIYs like these are just the right-shaped tuit to give me courage to tackle these types of jobs!

I just wish cn90 had a 2002 525i as I never know how 'different' his components are from mine.

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  #30  
Old 11-10-2011, 10:38 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Update,

My Windshield Washer Pump is dead. Ordered new VDO pump online for $20.
Will also replace the grommet that sits below the Windshield Washer Pump.

Now, a separate issue is the leak out of the "Breather Valve".
I think I have the same problem as "tspeed". Whenever I fill fluid to the neck, it slowly settles down at the wheel well level.
So I think some fluid is leaking out the breather valve (PN 61668361370; $25 at BMW dealer).

The Volvo engineer is smarter: the filler neck in the Volvo enters the very top of the reservoir, thus no need for this stupid "Breather Valve".
If you look at the E39 reservoir (1st pic above), the filler tube enters the reservoir in the middle, so when you fill fluid, air exits the "Breather Valve" until fluid builds up, and the floater rises and seals it up. The problem is the red rubber seal (see "tspeed" pic) goes bad with time.

In theory I can replace "Breather Valve", but since this is more-or-less a useless piece of junk, I will not spend $25 for this part, which is a waste of money.
I will modify it so I can fill washer fluid all the way to the top of the filler tube w/o leak.
This is my plan: run a rubber hose from the "Breather Valve" nipple and bring it all the way along the filler tube into the engine compartment.
This way air can still exit and I can still fill fluid all the way up to the neck (at the filler cap).


PS: I will take a few update pictures this weekend when I do this project!

Last edited by cn90; 11-10-2011 at 10:39 AM.
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  #31  
Old 11-13-2011, 12:39 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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I finally had time to replace my washer pump.

- I ordered "VDO" pump online, about $20. It is a direct fit.

- As already mentioned, I used a very very tiny amount of grease on the fittings (rubber grommet or tubing). Just make sure no grease gets inside the tubing itself!

- I replaced the following items:
1. Washer Pump ($20 online for VDO, dealer sells this for $55!).
2. Grommet for washer pump ($2 at dealer)
3. Grommet for breather valve ($2 at dealer)

4. My breather valve has a very very slow leak (read on), the BMW dealer wants $25 for this useless breather valve, which is not a very good design to start with, so I elected to keep my breather valve but improvised the vent using Vinyl Tubing (I.D. = 5/16", $2 at hardware store).

-----------

1. Gather the stuff: note that in order to remove the breather valve, you need to remove the two (2) 10-mm plastic nuts to tilt the reservoir forward.
- Fit the Vinyl Tubing over the breather valve, zip tie it.
- Install new grommet first, then the breather valve.






2. Option A: route the Vinyl Tubing to the engine compartment.
- However Vinyl Tubing is rated to about 160-180F, engine compartment temp is usually in the same range 160-180F.
So this may not be a good place to route the tubing if you are concerned about Vinyl Tubing melting under heat of the summer.

- Note that I used a "Plastic Trim Screw" (used for Interior Trim work in car, this is a generic part from local autoparts store).
Then I zip tie it. The screw allows air to vent but keep dirt from entering the Vinyl Tubing.










Notice that after 10 minutes, washer fluid enters the Vinyl Tubing (my breather valve has a very very slow leak):







3. Option B: route the Vinyl Tubing to the area behind the Fender Plastic Liner.
- When looking upward I noticed 2 drain areas: 1 rectangular (rubber), and 1 round (metal). The rectangular is probably drain from cabin filter area. The round drain is probably from the sunroof itself.

- Anyway, note where I zip ties the Vinyl Tubing.
- Note also that I place the Tubing in the groove next to the rectangular drain. It fits perfectly in there.
- Just make sure when you replace the Fender Plastic Liner, the Vinyl Tubing sits correctly in the groove (stay away from the screw location!).

That is all, now I can fill my washer fluid way to the top of the neck!



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Last edited by cn90; 11-13-2011 at 12:43 PM.
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  #32  
Old 05-17-2012, 09:00 PM
pfoto pfoto is offline
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Mein Auto: '99 528i Sports Wagon
I have a '99 528IT (E39) that leaks all of the windshield washer fluid just about as fast as I try filling it. I have not investigated the reservoir system yet but before I try pulling back the Fender Plastic Liner, I am assuming the leak must be at it's lowest point of the reservoir to completely drain. Is it possible for the bottle itself could be cracked, any comments or suggestions?

Thanks!

Last edited by pfoto; 05-17-2012 at 09:10 PM. Reason: typo
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  #33  
Old 05-18-2012, 05:51 AM
topgear454 topgear454 is offline
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Pull the wheel, remove the plastic and look at it. There is no other way to know where it is leaking. Sure, the reservoir could be cracked. You will know when you see it. It is more likely that the pump or grommet is bad. Good luck.
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  #34  
Old 05-18-2012, 07:45 AM
pfoto pfoto is offline
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Yes I agree, i will have to physically take a look to know for sure. Hopefully it's an easy fix. Thanks for your reply.
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  #35  
Old 05-18-2012, 09:10 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pfoto View Post
I have a '99 528IT (E39) that leaks all of the windshield washer fluid just about as fast as I try filling it. I have not investigated the reservoir system yet but before I try pulling back the Fender Plastic Liner, I am assuming the leak must be at it's lowest point of the reservoir to completely drain. Is it possible for the bottle itself could be cracked, any comments or suggestions?

Thanks!
My advice is: since you are "already there", change everything mentioned in this DIY.
From washer pump to grommets etc. Do all the stuff mentioned so you don't have to come back and revisit this area.

Why do I say this even if your pump works fine? My washer pump went out (after 13 years/120K miles) when I needed it the most (muddy condition, barely saw anything out of the windshield). This almost got me into an accident. The washer pump is a critical device during bad weather!

So, if you are not in hurry, order the VDO pump online for $20.
The grommets can come from dealer.
Once you have all the items, do them all.
Do not forget to remove the Fill Tubing and apply a tiny smear of grease + zip tie it.
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  #36  
Old 05-18-2012, 10:09 AM
pfoto pfoto is offline
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Location: Florida
 
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I totally understand how critical it can be without windshield fluid when driving in the Northern climate , but down here in Florida it's not an big issue. I can practically just rely on cleaning my windshield when i fill up at gas-stations.

I appreciate the advise of replacing all the parts, it makes sense to me to avoid doing the work twice.

Thanks
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  #37  
Old 05-18-2012, 12:16 PM
jeverton jeverton is offline
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Thank you sharing this process, I've also run across this issue and will apply the above procedure!
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  #38  
Old 07-12-2012, 09:27 PM
pfoto pfoto is offline
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Washer Pump Issues With E39 Touring Wagon

[QUOTE=cn90;6438694]I finally had time to replace my washer pump.

The instructions and photos posted here are very clear and accurate, at least it was what I thought until I actually started the installation on my E39 Touring Wagon. I went ahead and bought all the parts required as indicated so that I could do the job all in one session but I got a big surprise. I discovered I needed more parts.

If you are having washer pump issues with an E39 Touring Wagon, your washer reservoir will look slightly larger than shown in the photos posted and it can contain up to 3 identical washer motors rather than just one. The center washer motor is normally for the main front windshield and is located similar to the photos shown, the 2nd motor located to the right side of reservoir is for the rear hatch windshield if you have this option, and the third motor would be located on the left side if you have a headlight washers. Before you order the parts for your wagon make sure to double check all your washer motors and seals because you may need to replace them all, if you have the extra money I would anyway especially on an older car. Also keep on mind that the hoses attached to the washer motors get dried and brittle over time so you to be real careful when replacing the washer motors.

The over all replacement procedures on the E39 Touring Wagon are generally the same as described in the instructions posted, the only difference is that you may have extra extra motors and seals to replace.

Last edited by pfoto; 07-12-2012 at 09:28 PM.
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  #39  
Old 02-07-2013, 05:05 PM
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Ltmax Ltmax is offline
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My filler hose had a hole rubbed in it and was leaking all over the place.

I just purchased a short section of heater hose that was almost the same size on the outside as the filler hose was on the inside for less than a buck at Autozone.

Then I just cut the filler hose in two where the hole was, and slid the heater hose inside the two sections of hose and used a little bead of RTV just to make sure it sealed real nice.

It worked great and took less than 5 minutes to fix.
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  #40  
Old 02-09-2013, 01:25 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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For the crosslinked record, this thread was updated today:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > How to fix windshield washer hoses?

See also:
> Windshield Wiper Hose Disintegration

And note this in the bestlinks:
- What windshield washer fluid to use (1) (2) & what intensive cleaning system fluid to use (1) & how to adjust windshield washer spray nozzles (1) & where to get OEM VDO/Conti windshield washer pumps (1) (2) & windshield washer reservoir & pump DIYs (1) (2) (3) & specific issues of windshield reservoirs prone to leaking due to an ill-fitting pump o-ring gasket (1) (2) or to hose disintegration (1) (2) or to leaks in the main reservoir (1) (2) (3) or leaks in the intensive wash system (1) (2) or the pump itself goes bad (1) (2) & further debugging hints (1) & one users windshield washer leak experience (1)
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #41  
Old 02-14-2013, 03:27 PM
Kel Kel is offline
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For the E39 iT Touring : how do you tell which washer fluid line is going to the rear window of the station wagon?? ( the front is now working fine after installing the new 1/4 plastic hoses for both the right and left front--but that made nio difference for the rear window washer. The rear window wiper is working fine--only the washer does not.)
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  #42  
Old 02-15-2013, 05:46 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kel View Post
For the E39 iT Touring : how do you tell which washer fluid line is going to the rear window of the station wagon??..
Please read the threads by "pfoto".
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  #43  
Old 06-01-2014, 09:06 PM
rsmace rsmace is offline
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Any suggestion for the reservour of 2006 X5.
I've puilled out the reservour several times.Finally resorted to using contact glue around the pump spigot and pushed into grommet. Still leaked. I suspect but can't see any cracks in the pump housing or hosing. Hard to see any thing as the reservour is hard up against the firewall with the pumps sandwiched between.
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  #44  
Old 06-02-2014, 06:51 AM
AV8R4AA AV8R4AA is offline
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I just did this and learned something.
When removing the pumps, the rubber grommet usually domes out also.
I thought the assembly was put grommet on pump then push back in.
The correct way is to install grommet FIRST then slip pump shaft in.

Also I opted to use clear RTV on the fill neck instead of grease.
Didn't think grease on window was good idea.

Since I did the mod for dual indication of "low washer fluid"" also can
be triggered by "low coolant level" I needed a solid leak free washer system.

Guess I am old school, but can't stand any color but blue washer fluid.
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  #45  
Old 06-02-2014, 07:05 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Five (5) years and zero leak for me.
BTW, I used a very very thin smear of grease, just enough to slide it in.
So far so good.


@rsmace was talking about his 2006 X5 washer reservoir...
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  #46  
Old 06-02-2014, 10:17 AM
jarhed1964 jarhed1964 is online now
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Almost perfect timing for the rebirth of this thread. Just fixed my 99 528i washer system yesterday. Hadn't worked in about 5 years (too lazy to fix). I put a new grommet in there a couple years ago, but the pump died prior to that, presumably from being dry. I pulled a pump from my 97, even though I had a yet untested used replacement pump from a salvager. I replaced ALL of the rigid hose with flexible 5/32" hose from Autozone, since the rigid hose had gotten brittle and had broken.... pretty much shattered, in several places under the hood. Replaced the rubber hose between the two sprayers and used one newer sprayer from my 97, which I am parting out. Wish I had seen this about the breather valve.
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