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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #101  
Old 02-05-2013, 06:34 PM
nsogiba nsogiba is offline
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Listing of circuits that I removed. Some were not in the PCM connectors (since the van was not 4WD among other options), so those are labeled "NOT PRESENT".

BLUE
17 DK BLU 1225 Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Signal B (A/T)
18 RED 1226 Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Signal C (A/T)
25 TAN 1671 HO2S Low Signal - Bank 2 Sensor 2
28 TAN/WHT 1669 HO2S Low Signal - Bank 1 Sensor 2
30 LT GRN 1478 Coolant Level Switch Signal (empty 2006+) (NOT PRESENT)
32 BLK/WHT 771 Transmission Range Switch Signal A (A/T)
34 WHT 776 Transmission Range Switch Signal P (A/T) PCM can be programmed to accept a SINGLE WIRE park/neutral signal on this PIN, if no trans mounted range sensor is present
53 GRY 720 Low Reference (TRANS)
56 WHT 1579 Fuel Temperature/Composition Signal (L59) Flex Fuel Sensor (PCM SHOULD BE PROGRAMMED TO REMOVE FLEX FUEL FUNCTION)
65 PPL 1670 HO2S High Signal - Bank 2 Sensor 2
68 PPL/WHT 1668 HO2S High Signal - Bank 1 Sensor 2
72 YEL 772 Transmission Range Switch Signal B (A/T)
79 WHT 687 3-2 Shift Solenoid Valve Control (M30/M32) NOT PRESENT
GREEN
2 BRN 418 TCC PWM Solenoid Valve Control (A/T)
3 TAN 1465 Fuel Pump Relay Control – Secondary NOT PRESENT
6 RED/BLK 1228 PC Solenoid Valve High Control (A/T)
8 LT BLU/WHT 1229 PC Solenoid Valve Low Control (A/T)
16 GRY/BLK 1694 4WD Low Signal (KEEP IF USING STOCK TRANSFER CASE IN A 4WD APPLACTION, WITH VSS ON OUTPUT OF TRANSFER CASE. NOT PRESENT
22 RED/BLK 1230 AT ISS High Signal (4WD w/MT1)
23 DK BLU/WHT 1231 AT ISS Low Signal (4WD w/MT1)
42 TAN/BLK 422 TCC Solenoid Valve Control (M30/M32) NOT PRESENT
47 YEL/BLK 1223 2-3 Shift Solenoid Valve Control (A/T)
48 LT GRN 1222 1-2 Shift Solenoid Valve Control (A/T)
51 YEL/BLK 1227 TFT Sensor Signal (A/T)
52 BRN 2391 HO2S Heater Low Control Bank 1 Sensor 2
53 RED/WHT 3223 HO2S Heater Low Control Bank 2 Sensor 2
54 PPL 1589 Fuel Level Sensor Signal - Primary
62 GRY 773 Transmission Range Switch Signal C (A/T)
63 PNK 1224 Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Signal A (A/T)
73 DK BLU 1936 Fuel Level Sensor Signal – Secondary NOT PRESENT
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  #102  
Old 02-05-2013, 06:35 PM
nsogiba nsogiba is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NZ BMW View Post
Top Gear on in the background?
the one and only, so glad season 19 has started. it was gone for too long. that's episode 1 on in the background, watched it last night. i watched episode 2 while depinning more of the harness tonight.
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  #103  
Old 02-05-2013, 06:53 PM
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Ltmax Ltmax is offline
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Having done several complete restorations over the years, I've got to tell you that I'm impressed with your project and willingness to take on such a big job that most people would never even think about taking on, especially with all the complexity and engineering challenges that this one involves.

Thanks for sharing all your hard work and good luck!
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  #104  
Old 02-06-2013, 06:11 AM
nsogiba nsogiba is offline
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Thank you. I find that this is the toughest time to keep motivation up as I don't actually spend any time working on the car itself. It's all metal fab, wiring, etc.
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  #105  
Old 02-07-2013, 12:49 PM
nsogiba nsogiba is offline
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LS6 CTS-V manifolds get here Monday, I'm really anxious to see if they fit. If not, I am falling back on the tubular steel Camaro manifolds and will get to work on those.

Didn't feel like wasting hours and gallons of gas running around finding M16x2.0 stock for a pulley installer tool, so I bought a "kit" on LS1Tech for $20 shipped, that showed up yesterday.

Placed an order this morning with Rockauto.

Plugs (Bosch Platinums at a whopping 74 cents each, gotta love closeout)
a new wire set (the originals were probably fine, but the engine only came with 7, and they looked like dog ****)
2 oil filters (the bottom end was never apart and doesn't need to be broken in, but I plan on still doing an oil change after a few miles to wash out the beer can tabs and condoms that probably fell in during the 5 months the motor was apart)
LS1 main belt tensioner (I should have bought a belt too, but forgot). For now I'll be running without AC until I can figure out the wiring. It isn't imperative to the car doing heaters so I'm not too worried about it.

Also ordered with Summit:
ARP Crank Balancer Bolt
ARP Pressure Plate Bolt Kit
ARP Flywheel Bolt Kit

I have a ton of bolts left over from when I disassembled the motor, so I'm reusing the valley cover bolts as exhaust manifold bolts.

Also snagged a new titanium 11/32" bit so that I can drill and tap the boss on the block for the F-Body alternator bracket.

I didn't like the look of the square shifter rod so I grabbed some ¾" round stock on lunch and will re-make it tonight. The square **** was only about ½" thick and just looked so ghetto. I still want a tall shifter, just with better quality/finish. If I had access to a lathe I'd chuck it up and clean it/polish it but a wire wheel will have to do.
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  #106  
Old 02-08-2013, 06:18 AM
nsogiba nsogiba is offline
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A few pics I forgot to add.

LS6 intake went in last week, all torqued down. I should have cleaned it up a bit before installing it but it’s not a big deal.



Bent up a new shifter rod. No pictures of the finished product as I still need to clean it up with a wirewheel, but it already looks a lot better than that square rod I initially made.



Getting better with prep for welding


The shifter looks similar to this Viper setup, a thick rod with the ball right on top. Beefy.
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  #107  
Old 02-09-2013, 05:29 PM
nsogiba nsogiba is offline
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spent a few hours today, some progress and some setbacks.

started off with remaking the shifter stick. the only square rod was ugly as dick. It has a brushed finish and looks a ton better. I laid a bead about halfway up the stick, to act as a retaining ring that'll stop the leather boot from sliding down.




installed a new front main seal in the front cover, new front cover gasket, and installed it all finger tight onto the motor

threaded the M16x2.0 stud into the crank to get ready to pull in the F-Body Balancer

my torque wrench only read to 150 ft-lbs and i needed at least 230-240, so i rented one from Autozone. also grabbed another M16x2.0 nut to double nut the stud to be able to pull it out later.

threw in the ARP crank bolt (which is reusable, unlike the OEM TTY bolt), but it requires an oddball 12pt 27mm socket, so i'll pick one of those up tomorrow afternoon.

i also installed the F-Body water pump, belt tensioner, and alternator bracket (which required drilling and tapping the blank boss cast in on the truck style blocks for one of the bolts). once i tighten down the crank pulley for the final time it'll be nice because i can finally install all the front accessories and finish assembling the valvetrain (rockers, pushrods, and finally install the valve covers). once those are on, i'll wirewheel the coil packs because the steel brackets are rusty, and those can go on too.



that all fit fine and dandy, but unfornately i had a massive brain fart when i went to install the alternator and realized that the rear of the alternator interferes with the driver's side engine mount. it's nothing earth shattering but it means i will have to trim that mount and reweld a plate in place. **** happens.
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  #108  
Old 02-12-2013, 05:51 AM
nsogiba nsogiba is offline
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Rented the PS pump pulley puller (what a cluster**** of a name). Used the impact gun and it made very quick work of the truck pulley. It was rusty and nasty so I scrubbed it, wirewheeled it, put a coat of wrinkle black on it, and let it dry overnight. The main garage door in our apartment is being replaced over the next few days, so I rolled the car outside, progress will be slowed. In the meantime I'll try out the installer portion of the tool and see how it works pulling it onto the F-Body pump. At that point there’s no reason I can’t button up the accessories for the final time and order a belt.

A generous Bimmerforums member sent me a few extra freeze plugs for the dipstick hole on the block.

CTS-V manifolds fit very well. The passenger side drops right in. The driver's side rubbed on the steering shaft. The previous owner was nice enough to cut the cats off after the post header flange, like this, which makes fab easier:



Jacked up the front of the car so the wheels were off the ground and had Melissa turn the wheel lock to lock a few times. The steering shaft is square where it hits, so it only rubs at each corner of the square. I removed and flipped the post manifold pipe stub 180*, and it's VERY close to the steering shaft, but some convincing with a large diameter pipe and BFH will clearance it. Another big plus was that the OEM heat shields don't interfere with anything. The PS line that runs along the driver's side frame rail is very close to the manifold, but I think a few minutes with the torch should bend it right out of the way. It is covered with heat-shielding from the factory, but I don't want to risk cooking the PS fluid.

The plan for the next few weeks:

-Finish fabbing manifold pipes that connect to OEM ball flange. I’m only going to tack this up as fully welding it is above my skill set.
-Remove engine/tranny, send T56 off to TDP to be looked at. Order Diamond light flywheel while Jason has it.
-While trans is gone, assemble pushrods, rockers, install valve covers
-install oil pan, pickup, and deflection tray
-change rear cover gasket and rear main seal
-Install DBC pedal from 528i in car
-work up some sort of throttle cable
-clean up and paint the engine/trans mounts
-disassemble and rebuild the M5 Diff
-buy a yoke for the end of the trans

Once the trans comes back in I can install the flywheel, PP and clutch, and mate the engine/trans for the final time.
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  #109  
Old 02-13-2013, 08:09 PM
nsogiba nsogiba is offline
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knocked out the whole exhaust in one night. $100 CTS-V LS6 manifolds, $20 worth of mandrel bent 2-1/4" mild, and some leftover straight pieces from my old Spec V ebay header. and 4 beers.

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  #110  
Old 02-19-2013, 06:07 PM
nsogiba nsogiba is offline
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pulled the motor, trans, and mounts last night for what should be the final time

replaced the RMS and rear cover gasket on the motor

pulled the slave cylinder, shifter, and bellhousing off the T56, wrapped it up, tomorrow it takes a little trip to Texas to be rebuilt

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  #111  
Old 02-21-2013, 05:11 AM
nsogiba nsogiba is offline
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3.62s are in, donated from E46 M3

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  #112  
Old 02-26-2013, 05:23 AM
nsogiba nsogiba is offline
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We're getting some "nice" weather (not 20*F) this week so I'll be spending some more time chipping away at things.

Last night I got a few things done.

Removed AC lines, made up a small aluminum block off plate for the lines going into the firewall/evaporator to prevent them getting gunked up with dirt and such. While I was at it I removed the secondary air injection pump and the AC dryer, both in the fenderwell. I'm left with 2 nice big holes there now so I may use one of them for some fresh air to the intake.

I also buttoned up the front accessory drive. I had routed the belt incorrectly, so I fixed that and make sure it all rotated smoothly.

Finished cutting the threads on the shifter with the die, installed the locking nut and knob. If I ever end up with spare time when it's all done I'm considering making a 2nd shifter handle (same brushed finish, but taller) for fun.

Soaked the engine bay in purple power, gave everything a good scrub. Also cleaned and reinstalled all the heat shields around the front thrust arms that I had removed when pulling the M62.

Cleaned up the valve covers and intake manifold with purple power as well. Halfway through the first valve cover I realized it was started to eat some of the wrinkle finish I put on there, so I may have to respray it.

Installed the rocker pedestals, rockers, pushrods. Gave the engine a few partial turns and they're all moving smoothly. I didn't expect any PTV problems with my stock LS2 Vette cam and milled heads but it's nice to know for certain that I'm good.

My T56 arrives in Texas for the rebuild today, so I'm expecting a call late this week or early next week. In the meantime I still need to buy a pilot bearing (small f-body style one) and new slave cyl, as well as an f-body clutch line since it fits the BMW master with some modification.

In the meantime I may jump in headfirst and start rebuilding my M5 diff. After doing much research I'm more confident about rebuilding the LSD portion. Setting up the ring and pinion is a different story though, I will leave that to a professional.
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  #113  
Old 02-26-2013, 05:55 AM
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540iman 540iman is offline
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Congrats on such an undertaking and just jumping-in without fear of the unknown. Take your time and glad to see you are hno longer using the living room to accumulate parts!

I have a fair amount of knowledge about the GM small block new generation as I had my C5 corvette pushed from its measily 340 base H.P. to the mid-600 H.P. at the rear wheels and laid down times in the 10.1-10.2 range on street radials. Lost incredible time getting traction, but just moved from Denver too soon to keep with the corvette club I was running for and to get the 10" slicks mounted. Denver times suck due to altitude!

I got my H.P. raise with "just" cam, head work, compression (a tad), headers, intake and did in stages so I could see the H.P. gain as I went along. If I may...

Be prepared to put the greatest amount of your money in the heads and then block clean-up. I stayed with stock pistons, but used commetic(sp?) head gaskets which come in three different thicknesses to gain compression or thick to gain piston to valve clearance as I found out the hard way. The builder used the thinnest head gaskets and the pistons said "hello" to the valves on my second run do to cam duration and not just absolute lift.

He flowed the heads and ground and polished them on his own home made bench using a vacuum cleaner to generate the vacuum to measure and match flow! Very crude, inexpensive, but effective. The porting and polishing of the heads was the absolute power maker combined with a great cam. We gained over 150 Hp with my stock aluminum heads and a well-picked cam. He had a dyno in-house so getting results was not an issue. Spend the time getting your heads personally "massaged" rather than going with aftermarket. Hand work, done correctly can't be beat by cnc'd heads IMO plus the cost of stock is right! We argued back and forth on the cam as I insisted on both high-end power and torque coming on early. We compromised, but I tell you that with stock 6 speed gearbox, second gear was good through 90 mph and at any speed in second, I could light the tires absolutely up! Have fun and if you are near Denver, I'll give you shop info! I had a heavily modded crate LS7 454 in a 68 Chevelle SS and the vette was easily faster with its owly 350 Cu in. Small block 427 was my next move, but sold car first and new owner ran in 9.90 class, but was inconsistent due to no electronics on throttle, frequent traction variability, and many "breakouts" with slicks. Suspension torqued excessively, but boy did he have fun. Got kicked-out of most tracks after the first run until he got the roll bar and trans cover as did I. Have a blast! Notyhing like pulling the tires 6" off the ground on the right side on a stock-looking car.
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  #114  
Old 02-26-2013, 06:14 AM
nsogiba nsogiba is offline
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Thanks for the story. Pics of that monster Vette? I always had a thing for the C5.

I'm not going to worry about "performance" until the car is up and running (and my wallet has recovered some). Once I've put some miles on it and made sure all the other components I've had a chance to rebuild (read: ruin) prove they are up to the task, then I'll jump into heads, cam, strong valve spring, etc.

I was thinking about maybe going with an L92 head setup for low cost, high performance, and proven OEM reliability.

I probably will end up spraying it this summer if I get bored with the power. Although, after driving a 150hp, full time AWD, 3600lb lesbian wagon for almost 8 months, I'm sure anything will feel like a rocket.
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  #115  
Old 02-26-2013, 11:31 AM
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540iman 540iman is offline
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I'll try and post some pix of the C5 which really look absolutely stock, but the oix of the 1991 ZR-i mercury Marine engine are phenominal in the C4. Also had a 1982 Anniversary edition as well at the same time. Had three vettes at once and then 3 BMWs at once in replacing. 2000 540, 2000 M5, and 2002 540 took place of 1982 Anniversary edition, 1991 ZR-1, and 1999 C5. Have pix of '68 chevelle and my Camaro lifting front wheels about 3 feet on way to a 7.40 pass and 170+ at Super Chevy show.


Quote:
Originally Posted by nsogiba View Post
Thanks for the story. Pics of that monster Vette? I always had a thing for the C5.

I'm not going to worry about "performance" until the car is up and running (and my wallet has recovered some). Once I've put some miles on it and made sure all the other components I've had a chance to rebuild (read: ruin) prove they are up to the task, then I'll jump into heads, cam, strong valve spring, etc.

I was thinking about maybe going with an L92 head setup for low cost, high performance, and proven OEM reliability.

I probably will end up spraying it this summer if I get bored with the power. Although, after driving a 150hp, full time AWD, 3600lb lesbian wagon for almost 8 months, I'm sure anything will feel like a rocket.
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  #116  
Old 02-28-2013, 06:16 AM
nsogiba nsogiba is offline
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The internals of my M5 diff are fully disassembled. It's an easy job for anyone undertaking a clutch disc replacement, just go slowly. Cleaned the internal LSD core parts, they're bagged and tagged, while the spool and spool lid are soaking in Purple power along with the output covers. I was able to remove the output shaft bearings very easily with a cutoff wheel and gentle prying. The inner races were much more difficult, requiring lots of patient grinding and tapping. I was able to eventually get them "thin" enough to where the chisel split them. No damage to the surface that the inner race rides on. Unfortunately I'm at a standstill for rebuilding the diff as I still am waiting on new bearings, races, pinion seals, etc. Also spoke with Jim Blanton and he's out of stock for clutches and dog ears (#$%^&) so I'll call up a few other places today and see who has them. My dog ears were worn evenly, no ridges or scars, but the clutches were nearly smooth. I also was able to remove the ring gear by getting creative with my vise and a ½" thick rod to brace it. Those bolts are in TIGHT! Tonight I may be able to install the new 3.62 ring gear at the very least.

Regarding the pinion, what's the procedure for installing the new 3.62 pinion? Removing the old one is not a big deal (mark/paint nut, remove nut, press out old pinion, replace seals and crush sleeve and bearings, replace pinion, re-torque). However, I'd like to know how to set it up with the new pinion. Does the new 3.62 pinion still "re-use" the position of the old one via the paint marks on the nut, aka is it set to the exact same pinion depth? I'm just curious as to what the procedure is. I have no way of checking backlash either (no dial indicator) so I will have to take it somewhere to have them check the mesh pattern for me and adjust if necessary once it's all assembled.

I also messed around with the pedal assembly in the car. I bought an auto pedal assembly (but DBC) out of a late 90s 528i a few weeks ago, so I spent the last few hours of the evening removing the 6 speed pedals, swapping over the clutch pedal, and transferring over a few other things. In retrospect I "probably" could have just transferred the DBC BMW gas pedal to my set, but my 6 speed pedal bracket was pretty corroded and oxidized, so I'm glad I swapped it. I also removed the connection between the clutch master cylinder and the clutch line, but a good portion of the line is hard underneath the carpet and behind the firewall, and I was too tired to try to pull it out. I won't need the line again so I may just cut it and pull it out from each side for ease of removal. The E39 is built like a tank under the dashboard. Welded tubular steel dash support, tons of foam throughout to insulate, leather shroud covering the steering shaft cavity so you can't see into the dash when you adjust the wheel….pretty cool stuff.
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  #117  
Old 02-28-2013, 06:54 AM
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I can't wait to see this car finished, sounds like its going to be a beast.
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  #118  
Old 03-01-2013, 10:56 AM
nsogiba nsogiba is offline
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So, I stopped into Denny's Driveshaft on lunch to ask them a few things and get a quote.

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/index.html

I was told that they do not modify OEM driveshafts at all, which surprised me, considering how reputable of a shop they are. They said they'd be more than happy to make me a new one, but that doesn't seem economical to me. It may have something to do with the fact that the money is probably made making new shafts, not doing a quick chop and weld on an existing unit.

Ironically the guy behind the counter is doing a TH350/SBC or LS swap into his '94 325.

He also brought up the fact that even if they could modify the driveshaft, it's still a slip connection at both ends. I recall reading about this (I think it was Rao's thread) and remember that apparently it wasn't causing an issue in street use, but I don't want to risk anything down the road as the car will see many long trips at sustained speed (85 mph+ for hours at a time). The stock E39 trans had a rigid 3 bolt connection at the front, a CSB in the middle by the u-joint splitting the halves, and a slip connection at the rear into the diff. The new T56 to driveshaft connection is slip joint, and I want to retain the CSB as well as the rear OEM BMW slip joint.

I'll search for more info on that now, but anyone have any input on this?
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  #119  
Old 03-02-2013, 07:25 AM
nsogiba nsogiba is offline
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removed the stock BMW DBW pedal.



brake and clutch master cylinder connections.



incredible amount of insulation in this car. the carpet is bonded to regular style yellow foam, and underneath is a hard-expanded foam in light green.



the pile of **** within the car grows...



installed the standard DBC plastic pedal



the stock hydraulic connection to the 540 clutch master cylinder.
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  #120  
Old 03-02-2013, 07:42 AM
nsogiba nsogiba is offline
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spent the last few days tearing down and cleaning the M5 diff.

the victim. got a good deal on it, but it had no service history, condition was listed as "we left this sitting outside for a year with no output stubs in it, no warranty, etc etc".



whoever pulled the diff didn't unbolt it, they just sheared the mounts. this car was probably in a severe wreck for them not to care like that.


differential side of the driveshaft.


sheared differential end of the driveshaft.


internal spool


E34 540i flanges


the output covers before removal. output shims are underneath.


keeping each output shim with its respective cover


old output seals, to be replaced


internal spool removed


hypoid pinion gear. i thought you needed a press to remove it, but i was able to get it out with a rubber mallet and piece of wood.
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Old 03-02-2013, 08:24 AM
nsogiba nsogiba is offline
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Once the spool lid is removed, there's always the top oil washer that sticks to it.


Dog bones and gears.



Half of the clutch discs and "pressure plate" as I call it.


Exploded view of the spool internals.


Bagged and tagged.


Spool with all internals removed.


OEM 3.15 ring gear removed.


Lots of loctite used in the OEM setup.


Output cover, bearing race, and seal removed


Output cover cleaned up a bit.


I laid the 3.62 ring gear on the spool case and gently tapped it on with a rubber mallet. It went on about 80% of the way and then just stopped. I used the bolts to pull it fully on in an alternating pattern to avoid cocking it, and then removed the bolts to clean them up.


I laid the case with the cover side down, put a few wood blocks under it to catch the pinion, and tapped the pinion out after removing the nut with the impact.


Pinion seal being removed.


Front pinion bearing


Front pinion race


3.15 pinion shown "as assembled" with old bearings.


Rear pinion race and pinion shim.
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  #122  
Old 03-02-2013, 03:27 PM
nsogiba nsogiba is offline
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the last i'll see of the internals, hopefully for a while.



brand new from GM, 2004 LS1 GTO deflection tray and oil pickup tube installed


i also pressed in the freeze plug to block off the original van dipstick hole, which is cast into the block. the new GTO dipstick pokes through a hole machined in the oil pan. i would have installed the dipstick too, but it goes on after the exhaust, which Breetime is still welding up for me.
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  #123  
Old 03-05-2013, 06:03 PM
nsogiba nsogiba is offline
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diff case before:


case and cover soaked, scrubbed, cleaned, painted:
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Old 03-08-2013, 11:06 AM
nsogiba nsogiba is offline
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Reassembled the spool yesterday.

Let's get started.


I'll be using this stuff for break-in. It was the cheapest stuff. I'll probably run Redline or Royal Purple when I change the oil in it a few weeks in.


Soaked clutches and discs (double bagged it)


I assembled everything with the ring gear bolts facing up, obviously. That will be the way I refer to "up" and "down" while assembling.


First inserted the oil control ring, with these ridges facing down.


Small diameter spring washer, with the narrow cone end facing down.


Another oil control washer, with the ridges facing up this time.


Bellevue washer, narrow cone end facing down.


Next, a clutch.


A detail of the friction surface.


Now we install the center spool rotating assembly. I took this picture during disassembly, but it's a good illustration of how it all goes together.



Then, a "crown cap", with the friction surface facing down, and the V notches facing up (exactly as I have it in this photo).


Slide the dog ears into the grooves, and make sure it's seated down all the way. You can see the teeth of the clutch disc poking out underneath the crown cap.


Inserted one of the main side drive gears, just as shown.


It slides in on a film of gear oil.


Assembled one of the "dog bones" with planet gears. Tough to keep together as the gears want to slide off on that film of oil.


The teeth mesh nicely with the main side drive gear, and it all self-aligns.


Same goes for the next dog bone, just upside down.

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  #125  
Old 03-08-2013, 11:41 AM
nsogiba nsogiba is offline
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Everything is a mirror image from now on, starting with that second dog bone assembly. The "line of symmetry" is between the dog bones.

After the dog bones are together and in, the next main side drive gear goes in, teeth down.


You can see the drive gear teeth meshing with the dog bone planet gear teeth.


"Crown cap" goes next, notched V side down.


The ears of the crown cap fall nicely into the slots machined in the main spool case. Very tight tolerances so it all slides down slowly on a film of oil.


Another clutch disc


And the teeth line up nicely with the end of the main side drive gear.


Followed by a dog ear friction disc, which slides nicely into the slots.



Bellevue washer, narrow cone end up

It probably didn't matter but I kept all oil control washers and spring/Bellevue washers side specific.


Oil control washer, groove down


Small diameter spring washer, narrow cone end up


Followed by the last oil control washer, groove end up.
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Last edited by nsogiba; 03-08-2013 at 12:12 PM.
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